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1978 620 King Cab 4X4


]2eDeYe

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Tried to clear too big of rock?

 

 

 

Slid off the peak of one, kept going anyways. 

 

 

This one here, two peaks you have to keep the tires on. ^^  

You can see Nuff here demonstrating the no traction method. All 4 tires spinnin' :rofl:

 

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Got my re-tubed driveshaft back. They were able to go up a tube thickness to .08 from .06, doubt it will help much. I will just have to keep it of the rocks. :lol:

 

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I will probably build a traction bar to limit axle wrap and protect the shaft some. 

 

 

While I was under the truck I took a look at my shocks to make sure they aren't bottoming out. Looks like I have a little travel left all the way around.
You can see where the clean shaft ends at the end of travel and the dirt begins.  

 

Up front

 

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Out back

 

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Went scouting on Sunday for our Memorial trip. Didn't find a good spot but it was great to get out into the woods. :)

 

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Nothing like driving 1-2 hrs away to places like this. :cool:

 

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Man I miss that. I'm picking up a RUST FREE, barn stored, '69 CJ5 that is as stock as they come. Really looking forward to this summers camping trips. 

 

Were you able to get up into the snow? 

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Man I miss that. I'm picking up a RUST FREE, barn stored, '69 CJ5 that is as stock as they come. Really looking forward to this summers camping trips. 

 

Were you able to get up into the snow? 

 

I miss my CJ more and more, I am planning a rebuild as soon as we move house and I have a shop to lay it all out in. Hopefully we can find a place by the end of the summer. 

 

The snow is a way up there now, didn't get that high up. 

 

 

All looks good. I like your bumper. Came out nice...

 

 

Thanks man, getting the winch in there is becoming a priority after the Reiter trip :lol: 

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No I'm good, time for spring time and camping trips. I got to play in a little snow this winter, ready for summertime. :)

 

It's been really nice so far this spring, 1 day of rain for 4 days of sun. Seattle weather isn't always like people think, don't tell anyone though. :lol:

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I love everything you guys do, and I follow most everything you post redeye. Not wanting to hi-jack, but I haven't seen anything as to why to select a passenger drop front as opposed to driver side. I know wagoneer comes stock in the size.

Reason is I got a 77 4x4 dana 30 front, thinking about going wild and doing a ka-t with a hp driver side drop. ... is it worth the hassel? (Axle, not the turbo)

 

Thanks! I've done my homework and I've already had my whole truck apart minus cab off! Currently lz24, 5 speed, dana 20, with 4.27 front and stock 4.375 in the rear, both spring over.

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Thanks. Not a hijack at all. :)


I went with the passenger drop because the Dana 20 t-case is passenger drop and I already had the axle in storage. I have also run a Dana 20 for years in my Jeep and am really familiar with how it works. 

 

If you can get a complete KA drive train from a pathfinder or frontier and it is driver drop (not sure what drop they are stock) you could easily run that high pinion axle. You could also swap the axle drop to the other side if you can't source a drivers drop t-case. If I had a drivers drop high pinion axle I might have looked into other options, the extra drive shaft clearance would be real nice. 

 

 

If you decide to run a different t-case, I'd gladly take that Dana 20 off your hands. :lol: 

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Haha, yea I have 3 dana 20 divorced transfer cases with all the datsun goodies to accompany them. Also got a disk brake dana 30 and 2 drum axles ready to mount. should sell some complete conversion kits... Can't bring myself to paypart with any now. Do you forsee any fitment issues with a driver drop? Like steering box, exhaust, etc?

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I hear you on hoarding, they don't make this stuff anymore. 

 

 

Exhaust would be the only issue I think, but that's easy enough to work around with no torsion bars on the truck. 

 

Are you going to power steering? 

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Just so you know my dreams/plans and I'm looking for input: ka24det built to 450 to 500 hp/tq, 4x4 nissan transmission, prefer 98 or newer for the larger oil capacity and larger bearing, built adaptor to marry a 4 speed transmission like sm420, sm465, np435, etc (or side load of you know any compact tough units) then an undetermined transfer case. Right now I'm leaning toward new generation aka jk44s, the front could be an old Skool hp44 with jk guts, or just a jk stock, or retubed, or custom. Rear at this time is like a rodeo or passport rear. I'm trying to determine the best axle set up to handle that must tq (plus the multiplication and shock). I'm planning like a 3.45 ratio, which in my understanding high speed (low numerical gears) are stronger sets. 35 to 37 inch tires. Trying to figure out how to fit tires without excessive trimming

 

What's your take?

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Yes to power steering. Some ideas, nothing real calculated yet.

 

I built a calculator in excel that takes any gear ratios from a 1 to 6 speed transmission, 1 to 4 speed multiplier, 1 to 3 speed transfer case, gear ratio, tire size, and let's you calculate for end ratio, end speed, rpm, etc.

 

Been building it in my head for 6 months now. Meeting with my local machinist and as soon as I pull the trigger on a motor and 4x4 transmission we will fab the spud shaft and adaptor.

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Automatic trans? If your going auto those gears could be ok. I would go with 4:88 or 5:29 if running a manual trans and 37"s. I guess you could use the second trans as an underdrive to make up for the higher gears.

 

Old Toyota 4x4 4-speeds are small and a dime a dozen. Might be an option. 

If you go with JK axles you will probably want to get front and rear to have matching lug patterns and gearing. The stock 4:10s in those should do ok with 35"s (I think they are 4:10 in the rubicon which has the stronger JK front axle and selectable lockers) 

 

Fitting large tires without trimming requires more lift. Not sure how much lift I have, but it's a lot and I still rub the wheel openings a bit. lol

 

The Toyota steering box is somewhat easy to swap, you will have to build your own lines though as the fittings are different than Nissan. Lot's of pitman arm options with that box as well. 

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Manual transmission. 3rd would act as my primary gear, and 4th would be an over drive. That would ratio wise effectively make the 3.54 into a 6.03 or so when using a sm420 3Rd gear (1.7). Would a Toyota trans handle 500 tq, multiplied say 5:1; so effectively 2500ft/lb- excluding shock factor?

 

 

I haven't made a commitment to a wheel lug pattern yet, but thanks for the reminder.

 

As for lift, I know I'm going to have to raise the body some, as well as the obvious suspension, probably raise the engine/trans/ 2nd trans up to maintain clearance. Which will help when it comes to tires, just wanting to keep center of gravity reasonable.

 

The hopes are to build everything as light duty as possible with out having to deal with breaking stuff all the time.

 

From what I've researched, the nissan 4x4 transmission should hold up about as well as anything else, those old muncie and np transmissions are torque proof, just trying to fit the rest of the puzzle together. Hard to balance: compact, light, strong, clearance, and reasonably affordable lol

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The Toyota trans should hold up to a bit of power, I've seen V8s in front of them and they hold up. My buddy has been flogging the same one in his truck mercilessly for years (with a 22r) and it has never had any issues.  Might want to verify their torque rating though. 

 

I have a 2" body lift on mine, it was already there and it made clocking my t-case up a bit easier. Cutting the floor to fit it would have been doable too though and I would have done that if the body lift wasn't already on the truck. 

 

Most manual gear drive transmissions will take a beating and I'm sure the Nissan one is no different. 

 

It's always a balance of $ vs reliability. :lol: 

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