.sunlover Posted September 14, 2011 Report Share Posted September 14, 2011 Does it have a cooling effect for the fuel, giving more power and better fuel economy? I know you want gas cold, but 180 isn't exactly cold, and how hot would your intake get (heat shield in place) without it. I'm speaking of my l20b water cooled intake. Quote Link to comment
Laecaon Posted September 14, 2011 Report Share Posted September 14, 2011 I thought it was to heat up the intake/carb for cold days... Quote Link to comment
.sunlover Posted September 14, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 14, 2011 I thought it was to heat up the intake/carb for cold days... If that's what it's for, i'll keep it unhooked. Quote Link to comment
Z-train Posted September 14, 2011 Report Share Posted September 14, 2011 If you live in a warm climate it is not needed.It was put there for cold start driveability and emissions.IF you do live in a "cooler weather place" and you are a little on the lean side,warm-up will a PITA with-out it. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted September 14, 2011 Report Share Posted September 14, 2011 going over a mountain Pass when raining and near freezing= iced up carb! I know! Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 14, 2011 Report Share Posted September 14, 2011 It keeps the intake air within a 'run range' cooling it from radiated exhaust heat on hot days and warming it on cold weather days. The motor will run better if the intake air remains closer to the same temp at all times. Nissan designers put it there for a reason so I would run with it. Maybe put an inline valve on it and shut off in the summer? 1 Quote Link to comment
DanielC Posted September 14, 2011 Report Share Posted September 14, 2011 .sunlover, I live across the river, in West Linn. You are getting to the time of year when you want the manifold heat from water working. I do not think we have many 90 degree days left this year. I have driven a 521 over the mountains, and had the carb ice up because I left the flapper valve on the 521 air cleaner in the cold position. And this was with the manifold water circulating. Quote Link to comment
albyneau Posted September 14, 2011 Report Share Posted September 14, 2011 It keeps the intake air within a 'run range' cooling it from radiated exhaust heat on hot days and warming it on cold weather days. The motor will run better if the intake air remains closer to the same temp at all times. Nissan designers put it there for a reason so I would run with it. Maybe put an inline valve on it and shut off in the summer? Everyone's spot-on here, Sunlover. It has the above-stated effect in both cold and warm climates~ and is for temperature stabilization. Tho I'm not so sure about a shutoff valve, as it seems (in my mind~ no qauntifed backup data) that stagnant water in the manifold~ 1. might act in a "hotsoak" fashion, holding & tranferring more heat, and/or 2. could allow increased corrosion/calcification/electrolysis..... Conversely~ said shutoff valve coupled w/ an IR thermometer sounds like an experiment waiting to happen~! But don't go by me~ I'm rambling before my morning caffeine I/V.... Quote Link to comment
.sunlover Posted September 14, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 14, 2011 thanks everyone, will do :) Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted September 14, 2011 Report Share Posted September 14, 2011 Yes, it is for temperature stabilization. Which allows for more precise jetting, hence maximum fuel economy. For carburetor anti-icing, the heated air intake is still used (in addition to the water-heated manifold). For maximum power, you want cold air intake. But then which temperature do you jet the carburetor for? Cold days? Hot days? Quote Link to comment
HRH Posted September 15, 2011 Report Share Posted September 15, 2011 It's a good idea for a number of reasons. Newer motors have better designs though. Like the KA truck does have water going through it, but it doesn't circulate to the head through the intake which means there aren't any leaks to cause problems at the intake manifold gasket. Also, you can remove the intake with minimal water loss, as opposed to the L head where you'll have to drain it below the head water port holes to not have leakage. None of the motors I have have run water in the intake manifolds. But it would have helped when I had carburetors. The EFI isn't much bothered by that, but could still use the stabilization. Think of it as adding material to the intake to make it thicker whereas it's not as susceptible to extreme hot and cold. Which means your fuel dribbler on top will work better. Quote Link to comment
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