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Jon's 521 L20b 5 speeed


jon521

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I was at the hardware store the other day....I was going to grab some.

 

I thought shipping from Portland would have been a pain..:o I could still do this for you if wanted?

 

 

do they have 14mm 1.5 pitch brass plugs? if so i would definetly like to get some. what i was planning on doing was sending the plugs i got back and send them an email telling them what i needed, and in the mean time just using bolts with tefflon tape. but if i could get the plugs sooner that would be great.

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I hear guys saying you gotta use pipe thread plugs. And I've heard of regular bolts backing out of the threads and shooting out. I guess if it were my problem, I'd just take the stick welder and plug-weld the holes. I've never had any of the smog stuff though, all my intakes and exhausts on my shelfs and rigs are non-smog. On a side note, you mentioned you might want me to ship that stuff down. I just got a box full of SU's in the mail. They were in one of those "large flat-rate boxes". It looks like that's the size needed to ship the parts to you. Point is, looks like it's $14.95 on the shipping sticker, so BAM! ther's your shipping quote :D Although it'd be more fun if you came up here w/ the truck to get 'em. Then we could race! Just got all the parts I need, and I hope to hear my new cam by Monday. Happy B-day man, get that vid up soon.

 

if my truck isnt driving by the end of the week, or if i havent gotten a ride from my brother, i will just have you ship them, sound good? thanks man. as far as the video, i didnt get it running so i didnt take a video, but i can take one of it turning over

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Happy B-day, I guess some progress is better than no progress. You should be able to find what you need a parkrose hardware to plug the smog holes, maybe a bolt turned in, then cut off level as possible. I have used a brass plug there before, with a square head, or maybe it was a allen type hole. I would buy new studs for the exhaust mani, if you can't get the last one out use heat(torch) on it, and just before you turn it, hit the base of it from the side with a hammer, hit the exhaust mani, not the stud. I wish you were closer.

 

Thanks!

 

why would you remove the 3rd one? it is still good, its just the other 2 have nuts rusted on them, so i was going to try to find some studs at the hardware store, or short bolts for a temporary fix if i couldnt find studs.

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Thanks!

 

why would you remove the 3rd one? it is still good, its just the other 2 have nuts rusted on them, so i was going to try to find some studs at the hardware store, or short bolts for a temporary fix if i couldnt find studs.

 

I guess you would not have to, I just replace all of them usually, your right. I would use studs with nuts though, the other way will work, but it just never seems to work out for me in the long run. I guess it's like the head, if you don't use studs it seems like the threads always get screwed up eventually, and with studs it seems like I am always able to tighten it tighter. Heres an example, an aluminum head exhaust manifold bolt verses stud, when you tighten a bolt that goes into the head you can't tighten it very hard as it will pull the threads out of the head, but if it has a stud that bottoms out into the head hole, it has all the threads holding it in, and you can really torque the nut down, as I have only ruined the threads once that I can remember when tightening a nut on a stud, and I would bet that most the threads were ruined before I tightened that nut from someone else using a bolt in that hole in the past.

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ya, the guy got me for $85 on the kit, and shipping $14.99, so $99.99 lol. I just picked up an A87 peanuthead today! I do have that exhaust manifold that doesn't need to be plugged, in case this one turns sour on ya :D Goodluck man, and X's 2 on what Wayno sez "I wish you were closer."

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I guess you would not have to, I just replace all of them usually, your right. I would use studs with nuts though, the other way will work, but it just never seems to work out for me in the long run. I guess it's like the head, if you don't use studs it seems like the threads always get screwed up eventually, and with studs it seems like I am always able to tighten it tighter. Heres an example, an aluminum head exhaust manifold bolt verses stud, when you tighten a bolt that goes into the head you can't tighten it very hard as it will pull the threads out of the head, but if it has a stud that bottoms out into the head hole, it has all the threads holding it in, and you can really torque the nut down, as I have only ruined the threads once that I can remember when tightening a nut on a stud, and I would bet that most the threads were ruined before I tightened that nut from someone else using a bolt in that hole in the past.

 

 

that makes sense. thank you! i will check the local ACE, hopefully they have the correct studs. i will check on monday, but are the threads the same on either side, or are they different?

 

for the manifold plugs, i was thinking about just retapping the manifold to something similar but in standard because the ACE here has standard brass plugs, and the manifold is even bolted in yet so i could still tap. opinions?

 

Chris:

thanks man, we will see how this week goes, then i can tell ya if i need it shipped or if i can pick it up.

 

haha as for the being closer thing, i only know of 3 other 521s in salem/keizer, and 2 of them are parked and not running, and the other is someones i know and he drives it every once in awhile. besides that, i know of no other ratsuners in the area, i think the closest is Jester

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I'm doing the same swap as you this week. 78 620 L20B(remote black box dizzy) and 5 speed into an l16 521.

 

so,... just to be clear to make this work

 

521 mounts

 

521 oil pan and pick up

 

custom rear tranny mount

 

620 front driveshaft and 620 center bearing assembly?

 

anything gotta be dropped or modded/slotted?

 

 

I've got a mig welder and tons of metal fab stuff so i can make the tranny mount.

 

 

Merlin

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that makes sense. thank you! i will check the local ACE, hopefully they have the correct studs. i will check on monday, but are the threads the same on either side, or are they different?

 

for the manifold plugs, i was thinking about just retapping the manifold to something similar but in standard because the ACE here has standard brass plugs, and the manifold is even bolted in yet so i could still tap. opinions?

 

Chris:

thanks man, we will see how this week goes, then i can tell ya if i need it shipped or if i can pick it up.

 

haha as for the being closer thing, i only know of 3 other 521s in salem/keizer, and 2 of them are parked and not running, and the other is someones i know and he drives it every once in awhile. besides that, i know of no other ratsuners in the area, i think the closest is Jester

 

I am positive you can find what you need to plug the holes in the exhaust manifold at the hardware store, take the manifold with you to the hardware store, and when looking for the studs, look in the metric section. The threads are the same on both ends of the studs, sometimes there are more threads on one end than the other though, take the mani with you to use the last stud left for referance.

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I'm doing the same swap as you this week. 78 620 L20B(remote black box dizzy) and 5 speed into an l16 521.

 

so,... just to be clear to make this work

 

521 mounts

 

521 oil pan and pick up

 

custom rear tranny mount

 

620 front driveshaft and 620 center bearing assembly?

 

anything gotta be dropped or modded/slotted?

 

 

I've got a mig welder and tons of metal fab stuff so i can make the tranny mount.

 

 

Merlin

 

i am also using the 521 dipstick, im not sure if its any different than the L20b one or not but i thought the stick shoould match the pan so it reads correctly. also with the 620 front driveline and carrier bearing, the bearing mount has to be moved forward about an inch

 

good luck! you will probably do this in a week, when it took me nearly a month. i really wish i could work on mine more.

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I am positive you can find what you need to plug the holes in the exhaust manifold at the hardware store, take the manifold with you to the hardware store, and when looking for the studs, look in the metric section. The threads are the same on both ends of the studs, sometimes there are more threads on one end than the other though, take the mani with you to use the last stud left for referance.

 

 

the ACE we have here in salem or keizer do not have metric brass plugs, only standard

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the ACE we have here in salem or keizer do not have metric brass plugs, only standard

 

But more than likely them holes are not metric, there pipe thread or british metric, I know that is weird, but the oil senser hole in your L20b block is either pipe thread or as I recall british metric thread.

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But more than likely them holes are not metric, there pipe thread or british metric, I know that is weird, but the oil senser hole in your L20b block is either pipe thread or as I recall british metric thread.

 

i will definetly try that before i do any taping

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I have these plugs right here...metric with a tap. Oh yeah...not stainless just steel. Pm me I can drop in the mail.

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Running since right before Canby.

 

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Looks better than a bolt....:blink:

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i went to ACE after work today with the manifold, and i just got frustrated and confused. Damn H5, those do look good! im tired of searching around here for the right ones, how much do you want to send those down this way?

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Things are looking good, your learning a lot, aren't ya.:thumbup:

 

 

 

 

Thanks! and yes i am, thanks to your help and many others. the most important thing i have learned is that datsuns are pretty much the shit, and i love mine alot haha. sometimes my girlfriend starts asking if im going to start taking my truck out on dates instead of her haha. if i get those plugs from H5 tomorrow, i will have it running friday, maybe even driving!

 

next thing on my plate, the transmission tunnel plate (where the shifter sticks through). Since the shifter is moved back from where my 4 speed came up, i cannot use my old plate. my brother suggested getting some thin sheet metal, flexible enough to do the slight curve of the tunnel, then just use selftappers through the metal and into the existing holes. then going and finding a shift boot that i like that will fit the shift from a junk yard, and cut the metal to match the boot. i would like some other ideas and input on this if anyone else has made their own. in the mean time, i will just cut a piece of rubber to sit there.

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Can't you still use the plate, just cut another hole in it where you need it, and then fill the existing unused hole with a piece of metal, I could spot weld it on if the metal isn't to rusty, or if the replacement metal overlaps enough, you could just use small screws to hold it in place, or pop rivets, then you don't need to make another piece for the oblong hole on top of the tunnel.

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the things I would do to have that shop and lift........ I have a very similar homemade trans mount. nice little truck dude!

 

 

i am very fortunate to have the access to a lift.

 

what could it be??

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exhaust manifold plugs! thank you H5wagon, you saved me from more frustration at the hardware store!

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after i torqued this one down, i realized i didnt flip the motor lift point up haha

 

as i finished torquing everything down, my teacher said he was taking off so i couldnt do any more, and he told me that he would not be around after school tomorrow, so i can only work on it in the morning :( which means i probably wont drive it, but hopefully finally start it!

 

i also relocated the carrier bearing forward about an inch because i used the 620 driveshaft

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my question is, should i tighten those 2 bolts down so that 2 pieces of the mount are touching, which will result in compressing of the rubber on the bearing? OR leave it how i have it now, with the bolts tight and the lock washers compressed?

DSC03426.jpg

 

i could not space the carrier bearing any higher, as it would hit the top of the tunnel

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A lock washer isn't going to work the way you have it, I do beleave that the two pieces are supposed to be touching, but if you leave it the way it is, you need to double nut them. Are you using a 620 carrier in a 521 mount? Use the 620 mount, since you are using a piece of metal, you can make the holes farther apart to ajust for the 620 mount being differant, if it is differant.

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A lock washer isn't going to work the way you have it, I do beleave that the two pieces are supposed to be touching, but if you leave it the way it is, you need to double nut them. Are you using a 620 carrier in a 521 mount? Use the 620 mount, since you are using a piece of metal, you can make the holes farther apart to ajust for the 620 mount being differant, if it is differant.

 

yes i am using a 521 mount on the 620 bearing. i dont not have a 620 mount handy but maybe someone has one they need me to buy from them?

 

the carrier bearing rubber might still work if it will fit, as long as you tighten the mount down tight when you do put it on. i think as long as it can't move too much you'll be safe

 

 

^^?

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