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Ron1200's '79 KC 620


Ron1200

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Nice work!

Thanks

 

Awesome man, I love that color and I almost went with it for my 620 but in the end I decided to do a solid color. The pearl in that color really makes it pop in the sunlight. Now comes the fun part of putting it all back together.

Yes... I'm cleaning parts every evening in preparation for a Datsun weekend. :) 

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Spent Saturday straightening and refinishing the strip on the leading edge of the hood.  Surprising how much time one can spend on resurrecting parts.

Here's a shout-out to Ted for linking me up with a Ratsun How-To on how to replace the strip retaining nuts/bolts.

620 Hood Trim Hardware Mod

IMG_1019.jpg

 

 

Yeah,  thanks Ted .

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Thanks Guys!

I had to remind my wife that just because it's painted, it's not done...

Will be installing the plastic fender liners today.  Thanks for the parts Ted.

 

Also ordered from Rockauto:

  SKF 17782 Pinion Grease Seal

  MOOG/PRECISION 391 Premium U-Joints

 

So you know what I'll be doing when the parts get here. :)

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  • 2 weeks later...

Just a little update...

With the interior done and the outside painted, I'm now working on the underside. Changed the front shocks and resprayed the undercoating while I was working on the .fender liners. Replaced the door mirrors with some I sourced from Rockauto.  They are basic black plastic and I'll use them until I find something I like.  Hooked up the 3W LEDs in the clear section of the front turn signals to function as DRLs (now they turn on automatically).  Got rid of the Fiam air horns I used them 'cause I had them.  They were OK loud, but I didn't realize at the time that that style (with an instant-on air pump) takes a sec to build pressure - making them useless as a warning device - too much delay. I decided to go with what I have on my Moto Guzzi... Hella SuperTones and yes they are Hella Loud!

 

Hella Supertones

5nvWBJz.jpg

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Got the Spook painted using Plasti-dip using Fisch's tip. Plasti-dip sure covers a lot of flaws. It's now on the 620.

Also rebuilt the Spare tire holder and mounted the spare under the bead.  The spare (185/60-15) hangs to low, on a lowered truck, so will try a narrow tire on a 14" wheel. I'm hoping the extra weight (spare + hardware + bumper) in the rear will help with wet traction.

 

Pics...

Spook mounted with the 3W LED DRLs (the 620 is on stands in prep for the driveline work tomorrow).

Scd3eXt.jpg

 

Rebuilt spare tire holder:

B0extfE.jpg

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Got the driveline installed (with new u-joints), rear transmission seal changed, pinion seal changed and the GL-4 in the transmission.  Waiting for the GL-5 to fill the differential and go for a test ride.  I found one very bad u-joint and one on it way out.  Hopefully this will take care of the gear shift lever vibrating at freeway speeds.

 

Pics or it didn't happen...

cCMkszS.jpg

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Thanks Flatcat and 2wheel-Lee

 

It has been a journey... and continues as I still need to address carburetion, brakes and steering.

 

Here's a shot of what I started with... Holes in rusty bed dont show. :)

9lMHK8A.jpg

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What's left?

 

Thanks for the encouragement you've provided since the start Flatcat!

 

This is what's left:

  • Replace the warped front disks. May also do the ball-joints since the hubs are off.
  • Replace the worn tie rod ends.
  • Replace the SUs with a side-draft 45 DCOE.   

 

It appears that the SUs needle and jet need replacing ($180 from Z-Therapy). I have the Weber carb & Canon maniflod but linkage needs to be fabricated, installed and then the whole thing tuned/sorted.  I'm hesitating on moving forward on this caus I don't want to make the truck inoperable just now and I'm flip-flopping on the loss of the vacuum advance with the Weber.  

 

However I get distracted easily... Right now I'm making a speaker box along the back to the KC.

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I'll post a pic soon.  They are round port flat tops.   Per the info on this site they were L18SSS carbs, most likely imported on Japanese crate motors.  They have been de-smoged. I have adjusted the jets so that they are all the way up (leanest mixture possible).

 

"Skib said that was the best L motor he's ever had and the best condition SUs also."

 

Maybe they were when Skib put it together, but not at the time i purchased it.  The L16 compression was down and it was burning oil.  I'm not complaining, as I knew I'd be changing out the motor anyway.   Skib's right about the engine being tight... It didn't leak a drop.

 

The SUs run rich now and did when on the L16.  I was hoping that moving them to L20 would help, but it didn't.  Lots of black hydrocarbons exit the tail pipe at idle.  You can smell the unburned gas when following the 620 going down the road.  Put your foot in it and engine response is a bit fluffy (slow) not crisp as when the mixture is right.  I've never needed to use the choke to start it (either L16 or L20).

 

I have some experience with the Weber DCOE as I have two 40 DCOEs on my Alfa.  I remember how long it took to get them tuned.  BTW... the Alfa uses a full centrifugal advance on the distributor.  

 

I found a pic of the SUs in my Photobucket.

Here's the L20:

XdnEXJ0.jpg

 

 

Here is the L16:

rQ7er4e.jpg

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Added a box behind the seat to store the jack, spare tire rod and lug wrench.  The top lifts off for access.  I also used it to mount some 6x9s.  They are used only for bass as the seat back blocks the mids and high frequency.

 

xNViBak.jpg

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