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2wheel-lee

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About 2wheel-lee

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Orange County, CA
  • Cars
    1975 Datsun 620, 2006 Dodge Ram w/Cummins

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  1. I had mine machined to 5x130 (Porsche pattern). As mentioned, that's not an inexpensive exercise. That cost alone could have bought some decent 6-lug wheels. But then...I changed my strategy. I wanted disc brakes in the front instead of drums (that of which the hubs I had were for drums). Off to the machine shop again with a set of Hardbody hubs. Though the exercise was pricey, I got the Porsche alloys on there as I wanted. 🙂 Let's not talk about what it takes to find a clean set of four 16x6 Porsche alloys and then having them polished.
  2. Which header does it have? I'm in the process of rebuilding my engine, so if it goes south, I'll be interested. I'm just down Beach Blvd from you. What are you putting into it? Need an SR20DET?
  3. Front axle? Do you have pictures of what's going on?
  4. I just found one of the steering wheel grommets online last week...I just can't find that site again. It was pricey, though.
  5. An added note to what Mike said, if you're running much smaller size diameter tires than stock, numerically lower gearing may put you back closer to stock speed/RPM.
  6. I forgot that you're using a KA24 with EFI. I don't know that engine or how its emissions system works, but I'd bet that it has an electric purge valve that's commanded open by the ECU. You might also check to see if the original vehicle that your engine/ECU came from used an EVAP canister shut valve or fuel tank pressure sensor (terms may be slightly different). If you can research that a bit, you might find that all that EFI emissions stuff is so much easier to work with (especially if it's OBD2). For example, if you can get all those OBD systems operating correctly, you can utilize DTC troubleshooting more effectively. Yes, I like working with OBD2 - and the later the better, as the codes become more and more refined. Sadly, I've forgotten everything I once knew about carbureted systems (in automobiles).
  7. Though once the purge valve is open, vapors are also drawn from the fuel tank via the line between the canister and tank. Perhaps also minuscule, it's still there. The amount of vapors in the tank are also affected by how much fuel is in the tank, driving conditions, and even road temperature (affects tank temperature). Again, likely minuscule, if the orifice you mention is small. Do you know how small?
  8. Setting up an EVAP system can be a bit complex. The one linked to at Summit appears to have an electrical connection. It says that this canister is for certain Infiniti models. I don't know their EVAP system, but I'm guessing that connection is either a Fuel Tank Pressure (FTP) sensor (also assuming the canister is located next to the tank), or it could be a canister vent shut valve - a completely different level of complication from the simple 620 system. I believe the diagram Mike posted near the top of this page is similar to what was on my '75 620. However, the one port that goes to the carburetor fuel bowl vent was non-existent on mine. The canister appeared that it may have a provision for it, but it has a factory-type plug on it, so I have doubts that it was plugged during the life of the vehicle. The smog pump was removed at one point, so I don't know for sure. The advantage of the common 620 canister assembly is just that: it's simple. No electric vent valves, purge valves, FTP sensors, etc. It's merely activated by vacuum. I just don't know the timing or specific operation (e.g., how much vacuum to open valve or even if the valve is variable). If this were a modern Honda, I could describe how the system works in great detail (I did, in fact, in a previous life). The downside of the simplicity of it is that it effects the fuel mixture in the engine differently at different times, and there's no feedback loop to compensate for it, such as adjusting the fuel trim on an EFI system when the O2 sensor detects a rich mixture.
  9. The drive-by-wire setup would be easy using a modified Honda gas pedal - or a way of modifying the dual sensor to attach to an existing pedal. Either way, if you can make the engine fit, the drive by wire is easy. The motorsports program you speak of is HPD in Santa Clarita. Though they may have some restrictions, though it may be just various racing licenses. Then you have Hondata reprogram the ECU for even more power.
  10. OK....I'm sold...if I had the time, I'd definitely consider a built K24 in my 620.
  11. Good timing...I was just thinking about how I'm going to handle this with dual Mikuni 44s. I like the concept of retaining the EVAP canister, and doing as mentioned. If I were to abandon it, I'd probably have a 1-2 pound pressure release check valve as a fuel tank breather to allow air in, but hold most of the fuel vapors in the tank (sealed fuel cap). The check valve is similar to the Suzuki Samurai, except when the pressure releases from the check valve, it goes to the EVAP canister. Though I like the EVAP canister, but it messes with the simple look I wanted in the engine compartment (vanity). But I also hate the smell of fuel vapors in my garage on a hot summer day. I haven't researched it yet, but how does that crankcase vent pipe come off of the L20B block? Sorry...if it's plain obvious, but I haven't really looked at it yet after removing the stock exhaust manifold. .
  12. Ah crap...I just threw away the complete exhaust manifold assembly from my 1975 620 (California truck). All the air injection pipes were in great shape. I figured I'd never use it again and nobody would ever want it. Sorry. I also recently sold a complete engine assembly with one, so they're out there. Even if you did have to buy a complete engine, it would be a whole lot easier than a swap.
  13. It is still going very well, actually.
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