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I had my '77 Datsun B210 out for some fun on a frozen lake here in New York state this winter. It is powered by a twin Dellorto fed 1608 cc A-series I built a few years back. Hemmings Sports and Exotic magazine's David Traver Adolphus has been after me to get together with him on the ice this year for a photo session with the B210, for a future article. The roads were dry so I drove it over to nearby Round Lake in upstate New York last Monday. David followed me to the lake and carried all of my studded ice racing tires and jack in his SUV.

 

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I did a quick tire change when we got there. There was plenty of ice at 12 inches of thickness. The weather was perfect, and beside about three ice fishermen, we had the place all to ourselves.

 

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There was a road course plowed on the lake from the ice races run the day before. This was the first time I actually got to drive a RWD car on the ice with the 13" purpose built studded ice racing tires. What a hoot!

 

Does this look like fun or what? :D

 

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Here are a few more of the pics from the photographer. :-)

 

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Cnv0043.jpg

Thats a great pic.

 

And that looks like it was a lot of fun. I'd love to do that sometime.

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That is Very Exteremely Awsome!

 

Beautifull car. Had one just like it in the dark blue. Will alwayse miss that car!

 

:thumbup:

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your engine and pics are really cool, me likey a lot.

 

how about m;ore details on your engine. where do you tach out at? you say, 1600cc, how did you achieve this? stroker crank? i know this is asking too much but, is there any way you can give us a sound cliP?

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your engine and pics are really cool, me likey a lot.

 

how about m;ore details on your engine. where do you tach out at? you say, 1600cc, how did you achieve this? stroker crank? i know this is asking too much but, is there any way you can give us a sound cliP?

 

Yea, what he said! And I would also like to know exactly how mutch traction did you really have with those tires?

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your engine and pics are really cool, me likey a lot.

 

how about m;ore details on your engine. where do you tach out at? you say, 1600cc, how did you achieve this? stroker crank? i know this is asking too much but, is there any way you can give us a sound cliP?

I built my 1608 by using an A15 engine and boring it out 3mm oversize to 79mm. I used 1mm over Subaru Justy pistons and had the wrist pin end of the stock A15 rods [19mm] bushed down to match the Suby's [18mm] wrist pin size. The tops of the pistons ended up about .080" down the hole at top dead center, so I then decked the block .070" to get the deck height I wanted. I used a Nismo head gasket because it accomodates the 79mm bore. The carbs are 40mm Dellortos on a Redline intake. I modified the header to clear the side draft manifold. There are pics of all of this on my Yahoo Datsun 210 web page photo album HERE.

 

Mike

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i would look at all the pics of your car EXCEPT i would need to become a member of the group. and since i dont have a 210 that makes things a little pointless. post the pics here!

 

oh but that looks oh so fun. i gotta do it some day with a rabbit!

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I built my 1608 by using an A15 engine and boring it out 3mm oversize to 79mm. I used 1mm over Subaru Justy pistons and had the wrist pin end of the stock A15 rods [19mm] bushed down to match the Suby's [18mm] wrist pin size. The tops of the pistons ended up about .080" down the hole at top dead center, so I then decked the block .070" to get the deck height I wanted. I used a Nismo head gasket because it accomodates the 79mm bore. The carbs are 40mm Dellortos on a Redline intake. I modified the header to clear the side draft manifold. There are pics of all of this on my Yahoo Datsun 210 web page photo album HERE.

 

Mike

 

very cool, i see that you removed the power brake booster?, what master cylinder is that from? do you have a special cam grind in there?

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very cool, i see that you removed the power brake booster?, what master cylinder is that from? do you have a special cam grind in there?
The master cylinder relocation baffled me for a long time, until I figured out how I was going to do it. No one could help me as it hasn't been done before with the stock dash in place. Aftermarket race type setups will only fit if you remove the dasboard. This is a street car so I didn't want to do that. I needed to move the master cylinder at least 2 1/2" to the left. I started measuring and got lucky. I had a '91 [b13] Sentra SE-R parts car and removed the clutch pedal from it to check the dimentions. It was exactly what I needed!

 

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I still needed to re-engineer the pedal box though, and here is a picture of the result.

 

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The original pedal box is on the left. This was more than just changing the pedal however. Notice that the mounting point and the brake light switch had to be altered as well. I used a piece of 1/2" round stock steel and threaded both sides of it. I secured the new bolt with nylon locking nuts on each end.

 

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Here' a picture that illustrates the offset made .....

 

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Yes, I later cut and welded in a piece of steel to close the original hole on the pedal box.

 

A picture of the finished product....

 

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In addition to the pedal relocation, the vacuum booster had to be removed. Also, the factory master cylinder was too long and wouldn't fit behind the strut tower. My research revealed that a rebuilt master from an '86 [b11] Sentra would do the trick and shared the same 3/4" bore size as the original.

 

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I am very happy with the results and everything works perfectly.

 

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Oh, the cam is from Crane Cams in the US. They no longer make any cams for our A-series engines but I got this one on a closeout deal about 5 years ago. The grind number is F-222/280-2-10-NC. It is not a big top end cam. As this is not a race car, I didn't want that. It is a 270 deg. duration cam with .420" Intake lift and .441 exhaust lift. It pulls real nice to about 6,200 rpm.

 

Cheers,

 

Mike

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post the pics here!

 

oh but that looks oh so fun.

1608 engine project

 

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Thanks to my talented and generous father who is a master machinist, we did all of this machine work right at home in his basement! This is my A15 block having the deck resurfaced. It only needed .005 of an inch removed to clean it up. Also shown are the freshly bored [to 3mm oversize] and honed cylinders. The 79mm Justy pistons were fitted at .001 of an inch piston to wall clearance.

 

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The A15 engine uses a 19mm wrist pin. A bronze bushing is required to mate the rods to the Subaru Justy piston's 18mm wrist pin. The small end of the A15 rods need to be narrowed .090" to fit inside the Subaru pistons. This pic shows one rod that has been narrowed against the standard one in the rear.

 

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Surface grinding the rods on a magnetic plate was the method used to narrow the small end of the rods.

 

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This is the 79mm Subaru Justy piston that can boost your A15 to 1608cc.

 

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The top deck of the block needed milling .070 inch to get the Justy piston sit to the factory deck height.

 

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Assembled 1608 shortblock. To review, the block has been bored .125 inch, decked .070 inch, rods bronze bushed and narrowed .090 inch, and now contains Justy pistons and a Crane Cam with matching dual valvesprings. Cylinder head is the H72 casting from a '77 B210 A14. I did a mild port job on it and gave it a clean up cut on the milling machine. I used a Nismo head gasket which matched this engine's 79mm bores perfectly.

 

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Redline twin side draft manifold. I ordered this twin side draft intake manifold from Redline Performance, in Australia. The cost, including a linkage kit and postage was about $170 US [six years ago]. This is for the oval port heads, like the A14 H72 casting I am using.

 

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This shows the Pacesetter header modifications that were necessary to clear the twin side draft manifold, before final welding.

 

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Ready for installation. :)

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Man that's some nice fab work, I bet that cars a blast to drive. Tell me you put the (DATSUN POWER) Down on the ricer boys in town.

That thing is way cool.:D

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I want to know where you got the bumpers!?!

 

Can you get any more? :D

I imported them from England about 8 years ago. The shipping cost more than the bumpers did. :P

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I imported them from England about 8 years ago. The shipping cost more than the bumpers did. :P

 

Oh, I know... I talked to a guy in Australia about sending me some. He wanted $100 for the bumpers and $300 to ship them... :P

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really cool brake engineering. i have been looking for a way to do the same thing. thanks for all those pics.

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really cool brake engineering. i have been looking for a way to do the same thing. thanks for all those pics.
You're welcome. There's nothing like a pair of side drafts to wake up an A-series engine! ;)

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I have an extra rear 120Y bumper [new in box] that was a spare for this car. I sold the car this spring so will now sell my extra bumper. I'm in NY. If any of you US forum members are interested let me know.

 

http://albany.craigslist.org/pts/4234336076.html

 

120Y badges too:

 

http://albany.craigslist.org/pts/4234351436.html

 

 

Mike

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If you've still got the 120y badges I'll buy them.

 

Pm'd

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