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My sr20det Datsun 510 build saga...

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IMO stock body lines are one of the best parts of a 510. Well fitted wheels under stock fenders/quarters on a street car is so much better looking than flares. Race cars are another story...

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Call me an idiot but why was there powdercoat inside the intake?

 

And how is the steering wheel triple black? I do like it though

 

And personally I'm not a fan of flares unless well done box flare or race car type set up. I don't know the end result you're aiming for so I can't really comment on that part

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@thisismatt - It will be a street car, but I struggle with the same opinion. I would like to get more rubber on wider wheels. Yet, I love the factory body lines. Argh!

 

@hobospyder - No sir, you are not an idiot. The idiot was the company that powder coated the inside of the plenum, underside of the original valve cover and the inside of the GReddy oil pan. Then they were confused about why I was pissed off.

 

Nardi made a limited run of wheels with black perforated leather or suede on black centers with black stitching. Usually they have red, white, etc stitching.

 

I just want to be able to run wider tires honestly. And flares would let me do that.

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Box flare it

 

And ok on the powdercoat. It wasn't adding up in my head and now I understand my head was right for once. Sucks they did that, did you still have to pay?

 

And oh, I didn't even think of the stitching. Completely blanked that.

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Nothing cleaner than stock body lines on a dime with as much tire as you can tuck and a mean stance. +1 for leaving the fenders alone with the exception of rolling or a very slight/subtle pull if needed. Even if anyone who knows what they are looking at can tell, you still get some sleeper status with stock fender lines.

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I have some recaro spg-n buckets but, If your waist is bigger than 36" they won't fit right.

If you wanted to go the bucket route.

You should look at "used.racingparts" on IG. I've bought two sets of seats from him and couldn't be happier.

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What about tubbing the rear a little and keeping the stock lines?

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What about tubbing the rear a little and keeping the stock lines?

 

 

Nothing cleaner than stock body lines on a dime with as much tire as you can tuck and a mean stance. +1 for leaving the fenders alone with the exception of rolling or a very slight/subtle pull if needed. Even if anyone who knows what they are looking at can tell, you still get some sleeper status with stock fender lines.

I am with these guys. Flares belong on 4x4's and a converted Hakosuka at best.

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And your not the first to yank your grill apart by the way.I did not take mine apart but would like to to repaint in gloss black and re trim it.

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 I did the unthinkable. I tore apart my grill to restore it. 

 

It's just a couple of rivets. I've taken 3 of them apart.  :P

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Thanks for the feedback on everything! I have decided not to go the flared route and keep the original body lines in place. After all, it was what I have been in love with since the beginning. I am going to get a carbon BRE front chin spoiler which I hope will round out the mostly NOS front end.

 

As for the seats, I just accepted the inevitable... buckets are just not that comfortable and won't really be realistic for my weekend driving.

 

I decided to get some vintage Recaro LX-C seats and then have them re-covered with a vintage JDM racing bucket theme. So perforated leather centers to match the Nardi wheel with regular leather bolsters. I will try and get the metal grommets for the same aesthetic as well.

 

I think it should work well with a good 4 point race harness.

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Be sure to keep the shoulder belts, driving with harness'es only gets old real quick.  

 

E30 Sport seats are a close match, especially if you are going to recover, as most of them are shot.

 

Awesome things happening here.  :thumbup:

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What a build thread. Really enjoyable read and tip quality work

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Here are a handful more pics I had on my phone.  They are kind of random but, I will post more for Chris when I am back at the shop on Saturday.

 

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Fuel cell installed in custom cage with cover and comparison with it out of the car.

 

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Fuel cell cage during fab.

 

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We are using the manual MR2 rack but, had to make some modifiations

 

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Some more detailed pics of the powder coating

 

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The before pic with the red powder coating is a couple pages back.  When parts were dropped off to us we noticed that there were a handful of parts that were incorrectly powder coated.  The intake manifold being one of them.  Not entirely sure why the inside was powder coated but, that had to go.  There was a lot of work to get the remnants off.  Here is the end result.

 

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Valves, seats, etc installed

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After deciding that the Datsport stuff just wasn't going to happen we set to work with fab to make the SR20 trans and the S13 e-brake lever work. 

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Great work.

 

What was/is the reason for modifying the MR2 steering rack.  

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@5523Motorsports - You two are the best!  I can't thank you enough for stepping in and taking on such a big project.  Especially with such care and oversight.  I could have never done what the two of you have no matter how many years I put in to it.

 

 

@heywier427 - Just wait until you see some of the work they have done.  This is really only the tip of the iceberg.  The Wilwood pedals, the steering column, the engine work, the suspension work and the upcoming brakes.  The attention to detail is ridiculous. 

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Excited to see!

 

I thought I read that you purchased the JB subframe.  Should be plug and play no?

 

What are you doing differently to make it not plug and play.

 

It seems they spent a good deal of time R&D'ing suspension geometry.  Are you/5523 finding different?

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@heywier427 - Yes, that is correct, we did purchase the JB subframe in place of the Datsport unit.  Honestly, neither are bad and each serves a different purpose.  Going with a manual rack & pinion just seemed like the right choice given the rust found in the firewall, the custom pedals and all of the other detail we were putting in.  The JB sub frame was the best option on the market for what we were looking to do, but we also had some T3 pieces to mix in to the picture.  5523Motorsports was looking to make some tweaks which would improve what we are trying to do, but if you are looking for a good bolt on solution, the JB sub frame should work just fine.  I realize I am being a bit cryptic, but Jeff has always been supportive of our build and has provided me a lot of feedback over the last few years.  I wouldn't be where I am at if it were not for some of his influence.  Baz has been a tremendous source of inspiration and technical knowledge.  His products are so awesome and we are using a lot of Datsport parts still, especially their rubber.  Does that make sense?

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Well hurry up and finish, so you can be un-cryptic :)

 

I have the sr, the jb, and all other bits to get it all going next winter.

 

Going to rock the semi-p bridgeport for another summer  :thumbup:

 

To answer the questions of, does that make sense, no, not really.

 

The question was, what are you doing differently that JB didnt/isnt.

 

I also have t3 caster and lca's, and pretty sure they do as well.  They say it bolts up, and uses the stock mr2 rack.  Why are you having to modify the rack.

 

Are you modifying the rack to be a quicker ratio?

 

If you are doing it for better performance, ok, you can let the cat out of the bag when the project is complete.  If not, and the rack does not fit with out modification, you should let the community know.

 

Thats what Im trying to get at.

 

You feel me dawg.

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Rotary?

 

Yeah buddy!

 

I actually hate them.  Theyre loud, they stink, they break, but something about how quickly it gets up to 9k, and the sounds it makes...its good.  I love them.  But theyre turds.

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