RadioRedline Posted September 25, 2011 Report Share Posted September 25, 2011 I NEVER did of this... Radio Quote Link to comment
lil89ram50 Posted September 25, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 25, 2011 oh i thought you have seen it. lol might give me reason to snap some quick pics then lol i bought it for 200 bux. it ran like shit, and did not drive. took motor out, went crazy on summitracing.com and spent well over 1500 bux. talking wiseco pistone, comp cam, edelbrock carb and intake setup. thw whole 9 yards. parts get here, and there the bearings and pistons are wrong. they sent me factory sized pistons, when i stated .60 over. also the bearings were for a newer series, so they are wrong. i got pretty discouraged. i called them and they said they would trade them all back. so i think i am just going to put a pair of cheap stock pistone in and bearings. send the spendy pistons back. so just a slight cam and intake and carb. its got a small stall convertor in it too. i think about 1300rpm. so that was well over 6 months ago, and i keep forgetting to send them back. i really ned to get this done though, it would be a fun truck. Quote Link to comment
lil89ram50 Posted September 26, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 26, 2011 well i put my first RATSUN sticker on the truck today!!! need to get pics Quote Link to comment
lil89ram50 Posted September 28, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 28, 2011 god damn. ats always one thing after another with this truck!!! just got it running good. sunday i got it running really good, drove it all day, drove it all day monday too! so tuesday morning i was running a little late for work and figured i'd be late if i waited for truck to warm up, so i took the camry. Went home at lunch for an hour, ate, watched a little tv, then i started the truck and let it warm up a little bit, and took off to work. Had some road work coming ahead, so i hit the brakes! To the damn floor!!! I ALWAYS, ALWAYS, check brakes before i drive anything. This time, it just slipped mind. well i just about wrecked my truck, about a 20 foot drop off, there diffing up the road to get to something, but i managed to get around it. and i drove verry carefully to work, using the clutch as a brake. no time at work yesterday or today to fix it, so its just sitting at work. Itook a quick peek at it when i got there, resivour was empty, filled it and pumper them a few times, and it held pressure for about 2 seconds. It's spraying out of a hard line on the rear left frame rail. I hate replacing hardlines. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 28, 2011 Report Share Posted September 28, 2011 That's what the E brake is for, backup. Quote Link to comment
lil89ram50 Posted September 28, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 28, 2011 po has cut the cables. its on the long list of things to buy Quote Link to comment
lil89ram50 Posted October 1, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 1, 2011 well the front left wheel cylinder let go today :( Quote Link to comment
lil89ram50 Posted October 2, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 2, 2011 well guys, i have been thinking about this for a while now... and i have came to the conclusion i am going to try to keep the origional l series in it till atleast christmas. then...... KA24DE SWAP!!!!! i wont be starting till i have all the parts, i might buy a wrecker 240sx if i can find one... must be a 5 speed. i am sick of it not running right, and they take a lot of maintenance. never have to worry about if its going to start, or if its reliable to take out of town with out a stupid thing happening. i have thought it through, and have already swapped a ka into a 720. and have helped with a lot of other swaps. so i an not 100% new to this. but i will have bumps in the road. and it will turn ot ok in the end with a good driving truck :) Quote Link to comment
lil89ram50 Posted October 3, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 3, 2011 both front wheel cylingers are ordered from rock auto for a grand total of 41.00 shipped! RAYBESTOS part # WC37209 Quote Link to comment
lil89ram50 Posted October 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 7, 2011 wheel cylinders showed up today! they look top notch also! Quote Link to comment
lil89ram50 Posted October 8, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2011 batter took a shit today. wouldnt start this morning and it has been giving me troubles the past couple days. so today i will replace the battery, alternator, and the front wheel cylinders and shoes. As i already replaced the rear shoes a few weeks ago. this thing wont give me a break at all Quote Link to comment
lil89ram50 Posted October 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2011 well all of yesterday was commited to datsun. changed front wheel cylinders, turned the drums, installed new shoes. also made a new brake line for the bad one. painted all the drums and went home. drove good and brakes are nice! fast forward to this morning. go to start truck, starts fine, go inside for a few minutes to et it warm up. Few minutes go by, i go out to truck and put it in gear. start driving, about 2k it starts to sputter and backfire letting out big bangs and cracks! the farther i push the peddle the worse it gets! shift to second, same thing, step on the peddle, about 2k same thing, so basically just idle it in highest possible gear to get to parents heated garage so i can figure this thing out! rewind a couple weeks, it did it a couple weeks ago, little different symptoms, but sort of the same deal. It ended up being fouled out spark plugs. So the first thing i check is those. They look good. Shot 'em with the carb cleaner and tossed em back in. took around the block knowing it wasnt going to fix anything. I was right, same popping nonsense! it idles nice, it just drives like ass. next guess would be my condensor? seems like a lot of you have this problem with them. so i was going to check it. how would i check it? compression is good, 130psi across the board. valves are in spec. both wires on the carb have good power, choke is working properly. air filter is... ok fuel filter looks ok, was replaced last month, but still looks good. Filter in tha carb is good. no vacuum leaks. i have had the truck for a few months, and i have never gapped the points, and i do not know when the last time they were done. i did order a set, and they came in a couple days ago. I do not know how to do these, is there a how to? Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted October 9, 2011 Report Share Posted October 9, 2011 If a point vehicle hopefully you still have the stock POINT coil and the ballast resisitor in there. If a EI type coil is in there and no ballast it will burn up the points and start arching in there. To adjust the points I usually but it in neutral and crab the crank pulley and turn it till you see the point lobe at its most high position. Hopefull the points will open. basic adjust is about .020 If in dought put old condensor back in. also if Point dizzy is worn and has alot of side to side slop in it it will prematurely open up the points when you dont want it to which will make a popping type proplem. Once I got rid of pOint dizzys or convert them to a pertronix or get a Matchbox alot of these proplem will go away. Quote Link to comment
lil89ram50 Posted October 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2011 yes stock ignition system on a l20b. single piont dizzy. ran good for up till yesterday. no play in dizzy as far as side to side. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted October 9, 2011 Report Share Posted October 9, 2011 Just ck the gap. the L20 single point has the condensr inside so just make sure the lttle screw is tight and the wire side is grounded. If you didnt drop oil pump or anything just ck the dizzy timming again and make sure the screw diddy come off and dizzy clocked to one side thus throwing it out of time when you start speeding up(starts advancing). If you think its good then carb carb. But hopefully its in the ignition, your just not catching it. Quote Link to comment
lil89ram50 Posted October 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2011 i do not know if this if an l20 dizzzy or an l16 dizzy..... Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted October 9, 2011 Report Share Posted October 9, 2011 L16 use a small cap and and could be dual point and have 2 condensores on out side of dizzy or single(68-69) 1 condensore L20s use a big cap and condensor is inside where the points are. Quote Link to comment
lil89ram50 Posted October 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2011 there is what i have. i could get some better pics if needed. it is a single points dizzy. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted October 9, 2011 Report Share Posted October 9, 2011 I cant see shit.Ck gap. and see if OK. Since you have a stock carb you could have a bad fuel filter(Really worn out carb) or its running out of gas when you put a load on it. stock carb have a sight glass. ck if its level with the line. Im only guessing now. I have to log off for today sorry Quote Link to comment
lil89ram50 Posted October 11, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 11, 2011 just looked at dizzy it is stamped d412-64 Quote Link to comment
lil89ram50 Posted October 11, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 11, 2011 just looked at dizzy it is stamped d412-64 ok guys so i got a new points and condensor. the points are wrong. on the condensor, i found my problem. the wire was loose. and it was all freid at the end. so no ccurte reading on tht. the new one i ohme it out nd it came to about 5. ohms Quote Link to comment
lil89ram50 Posted October 12, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 12, 2011 to all you with this dizzy #, what points do i buy? i went to my local oreilly's, nd i got part number a521 borg warner. its the wrong set, nd i'd like to get the right set you were right on the money banzai!!!! loose wire vibrated at higher rpm's!! Quote Link to comment
lil89ram50 Posted October 14, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 14, 2011 bumo bump!!! Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted October 14, 2011 Report Share Posted October 14, 2011 Go to rockauto.com and enter your vehicle and year and there should be a photo of whats the correct one.Print this. So the guy at the parts store can look at them. There are at least 3 different set of points for L motors L16 single 1 condensor same as SSS looking at it. L16 dual point which are smaller. 2 condensors 1 big and 2nd set is smaller L20 single with condensor inside cap I dont know the part numbers are they all change them around for the time I was buying them. Diiferent companys then they change their numbers. Once I went eleltric I never looked back. Only on here. most likely you have a dual pint dist as the early 510s(68-69) had the single point Quote Link to comment
lil89ram50 Posted October 15, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 15, 2011 i currently have 3 distributors. 2 of them are for sure single point dizzy's. and the other one is a dual point. the dual point is in unknown shape, and i have used both the single points. one of which is on my truck Quote Link to comment
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