new datsun

[lil89ram50]

ok. i will get some pics up later. just on my lunch break. so yesterday after i got ready to take it on the first drive after putting motor and trans back in, it started misfiring and stumbling really bad. so i ran and got new plugs again. these less than 300 miles on them. new plugs, ran great. drove about 10 miles and went to bed. fired it up this morning for work, and let warm up for about 10 minutes while i was inside getting ready. got about a mile and it started stumbling and misfiring real bad again. made it to work. those were all on a bpr6ey ngk gapped at .35 now its lunch time, and i put in some bpr5ey's gapped at .30.

 

i know im running a little rich, and carb needs rebuilt. but should they be goinmg that fast? there black now, but not oil or wet.

 

will going one hotter plug, and down in gap hurt this motor? or do you think i wil foul these out right away again? this is my daily driver now

 

ps, also did compression cold yesterday before i started it. dry 150 an all 4 give or take 1 or 2lbs so compression is good, and ive never had oil burning problems. also, exhaust is just the manifold right now as i just got the motor in, and need to bring it to the exhaust shop wednesday to weld it back together.

[lil89ram50]

hey wayno, anyone else reading this. i am having headlight problems. all other lights are curently working. i am folling the wiring diagram wayne posted earlier. and theres 4 wires coming from the relay.

 

1: red/yel goes from the relay to the light switch

2: lt grn/wht goes from relay to turn switch and horn button

3:red/wht goes from relay and splits to the headlights and printed ckt conn? thats what the diagram says, dont know for sure, but i thing its the instrument cluster lights.... ? correct me if i am wrong please

 

4: red/blk goes from relay to headlights.

 

so, according to this diagram, red/yel wire should be hot when switch is on correct? i put a test light to all the wires, and none of them light up with truck running, and light switch on

[lil89ram50]

also, fuse is good, it is getting power through it. i tested that first.

[lil89ram50]

ok, just founf=d the red/yel wire at the switch, its powered when the switch is on. found the wire broke. soldered it up. now i have power at the relay. still no lights.

[wayno]

hey wayno, anyone else reading this. i am having headlight problems. all other lights are curently working. i am folling the wiring diagram wayne posted earlier. and theres 4 wires coming from the relay.

 

1: red/yel goes from the relay to the light switch

2: lt grn/wht goes from relay to turn switch and horn button

3:red/wht goes from relay and splits to the headlights and printed ckt conn? thats what the diagram says, dont know for sure, but i thing its the instrument cluster lights.... ? correct me if i am wrong please

 

4: red/blk goes from relay to headlights.

 

so, according to this diagram, red/yel wire should be hot when switch is on correct? i put a test light to all the wires, and none of them light up with truck running, and light switch on

 

Electrical stuff is a mystery to me, I just don't understand it.

I have an issue myself, my ign. light stays on after I start the engine, I figured out that if I rev it, the light goes out, and everything else like the dash lights get brighter, but when I rev it, the high idle kicks off, and it won't run cold, so I am screwed unless I let the ing. light stay on till it is warmed enough to not die when the fast idle kicks off.

I do know this, the 521 fuse block can cause all sorts of issues/problems, sometimes the fuses are good, but for some reason power doesn't get to the headlights, same thing with the running lights, and when you wiggle the wires going to the fuse block, the headlights come on, but the running lights don't, then I keep wiggling, and the running lights come on also, but if I hit the brights, then I will lose the low beams again, it's all a mystery to me.

Personally I just use 1980 720 wiring harnesses anymore, or a 81-82 720 diesel harness if I am running a diesel, so far I have way less mystery in my life with them wiring harnesses.

But they have issues also.

[lil89ram50]

no way! i have the same issue with the ign light! i think my alt is junk. cuz when i rev it up, it goes away just like you describe.

[DanielC]

I did not review the whole thread, sorry.

One thing I noticed that with the external regulator alternator, when the alternator brushes are worn out, it can cause the charge light to stay on, except at high rpm.

 

This is what happens. When a good alternator is turning slow, the voltage regulator just applies full battery voltage to the field coil in side the alternator, to get as much output out of the alternator as possible. The alternator will not put out it's full current, because it is not turning fast enough. As the alternator speeds up, the voltage regulator switches the current to the field coil on and off really fast, to keep the alternator voltage from going too high. When the brushes wear out, they start to switch the field coil current, instead of the voltage regulator, and the charge light comes on. This happens except when the alternator is spinning really fast, then the alternator puts out just enough that the voltage regulator starts to control the alternator again.

[lil89ram50]

thanks for that info. i have 2 brand new alternators from the other datsuns i no longer have i will try tonight. any idea on the lights? where can i get a new relay?

[RadioRedline]

ALL of this and still no Oics.. I mean and good ones!

 

Radio

[lil89ram50]

i took some, just cannot get them on here for some reason.

[lil89ram50]

well the rear went down another 3 inches. :)

it sits leve now.

also got the buddys yota all tuned up and running wel. points, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, valve adjustment, timing set, weber tuned. live is good for him for a while. now he just needs to get an exhaust other than just the manifold, and get an airfilter on there

[lil89ram50]

Does anyone else ever just have a dead set plan on there datto, then just suddenly change it?

I have been planning a KA swap, and have even had the motor in the truck, bolted down and everything. Just need to buy all the other stuff. lol

Now..... I'm thinking like i was last summer. Side drafts, cam, headers, dogleg, and an el dizzy. this is my summer truck, hardly ever see's work. leaves and grass, but nothing heavy like snowmobiles or lumber. and it hardly leaves town, so lookin for some fun in the streets.

 

my question is to you fellow dat owners, what carbs and a cam would you go with? im thinkin i want su's, cuz parts are easy to come by. and there lots cheaper.

but idk if i want flat tops or round tops? whats the difference, besides the shape? lol

 

and a cam? i have stock gearing, and a 4 speed, hopefully soon to be 5 speed.

[wayno]

Does anyone else ever just have a dead set plan on there datto, then just suddenly change it?

I have been planning a KA swap, and have even had the motor in the truck, bolted down and everything. Just need to buy all the other stuff. lol

Now..... I'm thinking like i was last summer. Side drafts, cam, headers, dogleg, and an el dizzy. this is my summer truck, hardly ever see's work. leaves and grass, but nothing heavy like snowmobiles or lumber. and it hardly leaves town, so lookin for some fun in the streets.

 

my question is to you fellow dat owners, what carbs and a cam would you go with? im thinkin i want su's, cuz parts are easy to come by. and there lots cheaper.

but idk if i want flat tops or round tops? whats the difference, besides the shape? lol

 

and a cam? i have stock gearing, and a 4 speed, hopefully soon to be 5 speed.

 

 

I am the king of what your refering to, the only datsun I have, that I have left the drivetrain stock is the NL320.

It runs good, but I do have a J15 for it.

The 521 kingcab was a drivable 4X4, I didn't like it, so it went on another 2wd frame.

The 520KC has been on 4 differant frames since I have owned it.

My 67 roadster has had the engine changed about 4 times, I finally settled on a fresh U20.

I am the king of indecision, but I sure do learn a lot trying to make up my mind. :lol:

[lil89ram50]

haha yea. what do you perfer on an l20b?

[wayno]

haha yea. what do you perfer on an l20b?

 

 

Prefer??? If your talking about carbaration, I prefer dual SUs, but one cannot always get what they want, I unable to use them on my 520 project because the master brake cylinder is in the way, so I am stuck with a weber, it seems to run alright, although I have yet to drive it on the road, as it is not licensed yet.

If your not talking about carbs, then what are you inquiring about?

[lil89ram50]

carbs, cams, transmission.

 

basically, from what i have gathered, i want....

 

1: dogleg 5 speed.

2: isky 490/280 cam with corresponding springs and retainers

3:38mm or larger su's.

 

why? i just hear good things about the transmission. the cam, i hear it has some crazy power band. basically an onn of switch. which is what i am lookin for. and will rev high also. the carbs... i hear 38 or larger twin carbs will be a good mate with this camshaft. round or flat top? i have no idea what the difference is besides the shape. This is my little hot rod. I want a good mean motor. a nice lookn stance. which i have now recived.

 

any input on the the carbs? flat top or round tops?

[wayno]

Wrote reply, but it got dumped. sent PM

I learned something today, copy everything before trying to post it.

[wayno]

This reply is my opinion, it's not the only one out there, but it is mine.

As far as I am concerned the dogleg 5 speed is a car transmission, it's a great one for the B210/210 series datsun cars.

I had about four of them in my truck, they lasted about a year and a half each, the last one locked up, and I had to be flatbeded home, that is the only time I didn't make it home in my datsun, and it was a dogleg 5 speed that was the reason.

Since then I have been building 5 speeds out of the 1985-6 nissan 720 shortshaft 5 speeds, they are truck trannys, and the first one I built lasted over 5 years, and was pulled before it fell apart, and I will rebuild it, and use it again, it out lasted 4 doglegs.

If I was you, I would use a longshaft before a dogleg, as they are a stonger transmission and they are everywhere, doglegs are getting scarce, and are expensive.

The only thing I know about hot cams, is they are useless to me, I need torque, as I use my truck as a truck, so a stock cam is my cam of choice, as I have power at the lower RPMs.

Really hot cams are good for race engines that spend no time below 4000rpms, fact is you have to ride the clutch to keep the rpms up to get the car moving with hot cams, but they are great for tracks where your doing 6000rpms the whole race.

Here is an example that I had happen to me, I replaced a wore out engine(L20b/W53 head with big valves and stock cam) in my work truck recently, I replaced it with a low mile L20b/W53 stock head with a RV cam, that wore out engine with a stock cam, kicked that fresh engines ass in every way, I can hardly get the truck moving with that RV cam, theres no torque.

A mild cam would be the only route I would go for a DD, as long as your not trying to move a lot of weight.

I like dual SUs, I kinda understand them, I can ajust servicable SUs without anything except a flow meter.

I bought my SUs about 15 years ago from nissan when they had a clearance sale, they have ran great for 15 years.

I have round tops, they replaced flat tops, I don't know the differance.

A lot of guys like webers, if I understood them, I would probably like them better, I have a lot of trouble with downdrafts, I have one on my 520 project, as the brake master is in the way, if I wanted to put a 521 pedal assembly in the 520, I could run SUs.

The weber seems to run fine, it is on that L20b engine with the RV cam in the 520 project.

I know nothing about any of the other side draft setups, or any other exotic fuel system.

There are more guys here on ratsun running a weber than the SU package, if the SUs were that much better, everybody would have SUs.

So that's my advice, I have tried to tell you my veiw from both sides of each subject.

[lil89ram50]

thanks man! i actually feel this truck is more of a car then a truck. its small, low, never see's work. i have a stock 4 speed with an l20b/w58 open chambered head i believe in the truck now. it moves decent, but just doesnt have the get up and go i would like. thanks much again

[lil89ram50]

one thing i dont understand though, is wouldnt the rv cam be better for yo then the stock cam? isnt it made for the low down stump pulling grunt work?

[wayno]

Whenever you add power to the topend, you rob it from the bottom end, at least that is how the shop owner explained it to me.

Stock cams are for torque, hot cams are for HPat the higher rpms.

 

 

[lil89ram50]

well i havent driven it since last posting. went to drive it this weekend and it wasnt charging. swapped in a new alternator, and a new battery, since i knew the battery was junk, and when i pulled the alt off, there was a wire broken under that black plastic cover. so i figured it was fixed. wrong!!! got a bole away after jump starting it and i had to push the damn thing home. so pissed i havent touched it till today. found the ground wire off the alternator to have broken in the insulation. so i made the repair, and all is well. i just wish i knew why my truck hates me. :( i feel like its time for a change again. the last time i felt this way, wish i had never done it. and i dont want to feel that way again, but i'd really engoy something thats a little more "peppy" and not so noisy. once i get over 1500 rpm, everything rattles and vibrates so damn loud!!!! and i cant figure out what the fuck it is and its driving me nuts... and its also so rustu, it neede complete floor pans, and rocker pannels inner and outter. so basically everything from the bottom of the door down.

[wayno]

Make sure the exhaust pipe is insulated away from the cab/frame, that will cause a lot of noise if it touches anything other than rubber insulators.

Any type of solid mount connected to the engine or transmission, and bad suspension bushings can cause noise also.

Snow tires are also noise makers.

The only way I was able to quiet my 69 KC diesel down was to fill/cover every hole in the firewall, use a carpet pad and carpet on the floor, put new channel felt in the windows on the doors, and new/good used door seals, and I used sound deadening material in the doors, and it still isn't quiet like newer cars, and never will be.

Electrical issues make me made also, but I haven't got so mad as to sell anything yet.

[RadioRedline]

You are frustrated with the Datto? It seems that way. Frustrated its not a faster machine and better insulated. Like a new car?

 

I thought you were doing the KA swap again? That would solve the faster part no?

 

What about having a newer sportier car as well to serve both moods?

 

Or, sell it to someone else if you aren't happy with it.

 

Radio

[lil89ram50]

well i found out the whole charging problem today. it was a combo of a bad voltage reg, and that new battery already had a bad cell. took it for a long drive around the lake, then scrubbed it up. and yes radio, i am frusterated with it, i probably always wil be. so il just park it when im mad, and threaten to sell it or trade it off. but i wil never sel my truck again. unless its to upgrade to a better shape datto.