metalmonkey47 Posted June 6, 2011 Report Share Posted June 6, 2011 (edited) I JUST got my tranny back on my 210 after pulling it to inspect the horrible slipping clutch. After pulling it, I found all the components looked brand new, but the friction plate was glassed over horribly. I sanded it down until rough, sanded the flywheel, etc. JUST got the tranny bolted back up and found that the slave cyl rod was engaging the clutch for before any pedal was pressed causing clutch slippage, so I adjusted it to give slack as per FSM specs. Bolted the slave back up, got in the car and when I hit the clutch it's soft. The clutch is 100% engaged with the clutch pedal in. The hydraulics (master/slave) work and the slave cylinder is properly engaging the clutch fork as it should. Problem is, the clutch is not dis-engaging as the pedal is pressed. Help I am at witts end trying to get shit fixed on this car. Edited June 6, 2011 by metalmonkey47 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted June 6, 2011 Report Share Posted June 6, 2011 You push on the clutch and does the slave cyl push the rod/clutch fork? if not then look at the master or slave/ If master has bubbles when pushing I would look in to this. But I also had a slave where it would suck in AIR,Wouldnt leak fluid but suck in air and over time I would have to bleed the clutch again. "When the pedal is pressed, it's loose, but I have full hydraulics and the slave cyl is engaging the clutch fork, but all the pressure I have up is the return spring." Kinda confusing what your saying here Quote Link to comment
metalmonkey47 Posted June 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2011 (edited) You push on the clutch and does the slave cyl push the rod/clutch fork? if not then look at the master or slave/ If master has bubbles when pushing I would look in to this. But I also had a slave where it would suck in AIR,Wouldnt leak fluid but suck in air and over time I would have to bleed the clutch again. "When the pedal is pressed, it's loose, but I have full hydraulics and the slave cyl is engaging the clutch fork, but all the pressure I have up is the return spring." Kinda confusing what your saying here Sorry, i was in a hurry typing from my phone. The hydraulics (master/slave) work and the slave cylinder is properly engaging the clutch fork as it should. Problem is, the clutch is no disengaging as the pedal is pressed. Here's a video showing what I'm talking about a little better. Videos processing....... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLZqpkuWgMU Edited June 6, 2011 by metalmonkey47 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted June 6, 2011 Report Share Posted June 6, 2011 Man I dont know Look like it should work to me. That look like more than enough movemnt. Everything was exactly the same befoe the trans swap? If new iteams were added and it worked before you made sure the parts were exactly the same. As I had a mispacked 510 T/O bearing and sleeve once from the box. You dont think you put the disc on backwards IF that is even possible? Quote Link to comment
metalmonkey47 Posted June 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2011 Man I dont know Look like it should work to me. That look like more than enough movemnt. Everything was exactly the same befoe the trans swap? If new iteams were added and it worked before you made sure the parts were exactly the same. As I had a mispacked 510 T/O bearing and sleeve once from the box. You dont think you put the disc on backwards IF that is even possible? See thats the thing, it looks like it's perfect, but the pedal is softer then hell even though it's still moving the clutch fork. Nothing changed, nothing new added. I just cleaned up the disk and flywheel, and put it back together. The disk is literally possible to install backwards, because it won't mate against the flywheel. After tinkering and thinking, it's almost as if the T/O bearing has mechanically separated from the clutch fork. I really wanna get more ideas though before tearing the transmission out again Quote Link to comment
bananahamuck Posted June 6, 2011 Report Share Posted June 6, 2011 I looks to me as if it is not pivoting on the ball, just being pushed front to back. but just a guess And, are you certain you have the fork on the trans side of sleeve maybe it`s just extending the spring holder ..although this problem would be much harder to have done. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 7, 2011 Report Share Posted June 7, 2011 JUST got the tranny bolted back up and found that the slave cyl rod was engaging the clutch for before any pedal was pressed causing clutch slippage, so I adjusted it to give slack as per FSM specs. Ignore the FSM adjustment and adjust it back toward where it was before you removed it. See if you can find a spot where it disengages and engages properly. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted June 7, 2011 Report Share Posted June 7, 2011 Almost looks like the short carrier bearing sleeve was installed instead Quote Link to comment
cl72wagon Posted June 7, 2011 Report Share Posted June 7, 2011 I was having issues with my clutch. Everything on the outside was functioning just fine.(slave and master cyl) I have had the tranny out 4 times now. So this time i decide to buy a new clutch kit even though everything seemed fine.....well i was messing around with the pressure plate and almost all of the rivets that hold in the fingers were loose....... New pressure plate and all is well.....not sure how i missed it before, but i did. 1 Quote Link to comment
tdaaj Posted June 7, 2011 Report Share Posted June 7, 2011 did your clutch kit come with a throw out bearing coller too, I've run into this problem before. throw out collers are transmision specific in some cases. Quote Link to comment
metalmonkey47 Posted June 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2011 (edited) Ignore the FSM adjustment and adjust it back toward where it was before you removed it. See if you can find a spot where it disengages and engages properly. Then I really need to torque that down some more did your clutch kit come with a throw out bearing coller too, I've run into this problem before. throw out collers are transmision specific in some cases. I didn't order a kit. I figured, if I needed to go ahead and replace it, I'd order the kit when I knew. The pressure plate has a 2010 date written on the side from the installer. Everything looks tip top. Clutch more friction material then most I've seen brand new. It was just glazed over from a mis-adjusted slave allowing slight slippage of the clutch. I sanded the glazed surface off, and repaired it all. It all went back together exactly how it came off, down to the bolts in the same holes. Is it possible that I could have bumped the clutch fork dropping the transmission down and done something to the T/O? Knocked it out of position or something? What should I look for when I pull the transmission tomorrow? Edited June 7, 2011 by metalmonkey47 Quote Link to comment
metalmonkey47 Posted June 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2011 Also, if you look in the video when I'm pressing in the clutch and it's loose with the fork moving, you'll hear a squeaking sound for a tiny bit of pedal travel where I actually have a tiny amount of pressure. Any idea why? Quote Link to comment
metalmonkey47 Posted June 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2011 What should I look for when I pull the transmission tomorrow? Bump! Going out right now to pull it. What do I look for? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 7, 2011 Report Share Posted June 7, 2011 Pull it first. It might be obvious when out. Quote Link to comment
metalmonkey47 Posted June 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2011 Pull it first. It might be obvious when out. All looks normal. T/O bearing is engaging properly and the clutch fork is all correct. I'm stumped. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XeIGeEsqoeo Quote Link to comment
schicksal Posted June 8, 2011 Report Share Posted June 8, 2011 What about the pressure plate. which way are the fingers pointing are the parallel to each other or are they pointing in or out? Don't flame but i have never installed a clutch on a A series engine but on Honda's and on my Z when the pressure plate was installed right the fingers would be parallel to each other or else the clutch would not disengage or engage properly. Quote Link to comment
DanielC Posted June 8, 2011 Report Share Posted June 8, 2011 Check to make sure the clutch disk is not warped. Make sure it slides freely on the input shaft splines. Make sure one or more lining segments on the clutch disk are not loose. Quote Link to comment
metalmonkey47 Posted June 14, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 14, 2011 FIXED! I just bit the bullet and spent some money on a clutch kit. All better now Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted June 14, 2011 Report Share Posted June 14, 2011 You get a Daiken clutch? Quote Link to comment
H5WAGON Posted June 14, 2011 Report Share Posted June 14, 2011 So did the heat mess up the pressure plate? :unsure: New parts are good parts..;) Quote Link to comment
metalmonkey47 Posted June 14, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 14, 2011 You get a Daiken clutch? Nah, it's a Dynapak. I'm not gonna have the car much longer. I just wanna make sure the car is as perfect as I can make it before she leaves. Quote Link to comment
I'm BLUE Posted June 14, 2011 Report Share Posted June 14, 2011 Nah, it's a Dynapak. I'm not gonna have the car much longer. I just wanna make sure the car is as perfect as I can make it before she leaves. Will there be a farewell ceremonial ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, tradition for this car ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, perhaps ,,,, The front left wheel falling off as the new driver drives away !??? :lol: :lol: :lol: 1 Quote Link to comment
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