SPEC Clutch kits

[banzai510(hainz)]

Has anybody used these brand clutches? http://specclutch.com/

I recently got one for my 521 Use the 510 yr and model.

 

They look nice and come with bushing and disc and clutch tool.

 

They say there made in house but dont really believe it, as if there there was a huge a demand for 510 clutches.

 

Went to oder a Roadster P/P plate but the girl said NA.which was cheaper and stronger at 1400 and this is a 1100 and more expensive.

 

They list other models for the 200mm flywheels so I dont know if they are stronger or the diaphrame height is different(will need the T/O bearing that was the orginal set up. But was thinking ordering the later 710 models as it might be stronger.

 

anybody run these

[budsaipan]

I use to have Spec clutch for my mr2 turbo. It was a 6 puck racing clutch and was overkill for the car. As far as quality, I haven't heard any bad things about it.

 

Edit** Check mr2 forums. Spec clutches are a very popular choice amongst them. Which is why I ended up with it.

[ariascarlos1990]

never have always used these:

 

http://www.exedyusa...._Specifications

 

 

Part Number: 06020

 

[banzai510(hainz)]

06020 is just a stock 510 clutch. I can get those EZ. Thanks

[Zeusimo]

I Think He's Looking For Something With A Little More UMPH... :lol:

[DISLEXICDIME]

I had a spec 6 puc stage 5 for my starion it was uper stiff and grabby

[Duke]

Here is my experience with a SPEC clutch with my KA24de swap. To be fair I have heard of similar problems with other aftermarket clutches, so I don't think it is isolated to just one company.

 

When I did my swap I installed a new 6 puck SPEC clutch with a lightweight flywheel. Once the car was road I noticed what sounded like a bad input shaft bearing in the transmission. Bearing growl above 3k rpm and during engine braking. After 3 different transmissions and 2 transmission rebuilds the noise was still present. I had drive line guys look up and down the thing, and they couldn't give me a definitive answer as to what the problem was. After much searching I found a thread on a 240sx forum talking about the exact same problem that I was having. One poster who claimed to be an engineer said that it was caused by aftermarket clutch companies using the wrong rate clutch springs, causing a harmonic that leads to drive train noise. The fix for this he said was to run a stock clutch disk because the springs are tuned to the correct harmonics of the engine. Sounded good enough for me. I pulled the tranny once again and installed a stock Nissan clutch disk. Guess what, the supposed bearing noise disappeared!

 

Like I said, I had heard about this problem with other clutch brands as well, so your results may vary. I just wanted to get my experience out there for other people having a similar problem.

[banzai510(hainz)]

Yea I always use the stock disc for a daily driver. Smoother

Spec dont have a place of Orgin I was just wondering if Made in China!!!!!!!!

 

Wush Russel of Nissanparts could get a awnser on the roadster pressure plate if they will make more new ones. Otherwise I only thing SPEC makes 200mm units.

 

I know Daiken/Exedy makes a Spec 1 for the 225mm flywheels 620s ect....They do used to make Roadster P/P also with Asco but it all dyed up.

be honset I got 2 Roadster spares new but dont want to use them on just a daily but if it was avail I would got another one.

[banzai510(hainz)]

I mounted the Spec 2 clutch yester and the dowl holes needed to be drill out slightly but look like it will work. But trans input seal is bad on 521 so will be awhile to try this out.

[banzai510(hainz)]

UPDATE.

 

Me and Datto510(eric) pulled the motor friday in record time however after looking behind motor and flywheel there was no oil, and lot of oil on the clutch and the bellhousing. Like honey!

Well I said SHIT!!!!!!!!!Nobody is going to have a input shaft seal lying around.

Eric broke the plate off as I didnt know How to do it.Pulled seal out and was hard as a rock

Went to NAPA none listed. I was thinking NO way. The dude must not be looking good enough NAPA usually has a list of everything,Autozone Listed a number buy N/A what ver that means

O riley listed nothing

Carquest nothing

 

Went to Younker Nissan 2 Nissan kids came running out likeing my 510!!!!! But went inside had the part# Datzenmike gave me and find out there are 4 in Alabama.

 

I read on RockAUTO.COM there are 3 verions of this seal for the 3 different sahft sizes. So I went home and spec out the 1.339 size and using Mikes part # he said it was same as the 77-79 200sx. So I blieve i have the correct part comming but Rockauto lists a Timken part# 710417 if one needs a spare incase one day or just order all version so your readly incase a trans seal goes down

[datto510]

Did the seals come in yet? Good thing you ordered the last 4, you are going to destroy 3 trying to get it installed.

[banzai510(hainz)]

thursday.

Trying to find the Timken number also around here from that Bearing place Dave carrol said ,but they cant find it either or a sub.

[banzai510(hainz)]

seal came in on thurday from Younker Nissan Renton

 

The Other L16 motor I had intially built is back in with the SPEC 1 clutch.(it is stiffer but dont think as much as a Roadster. Close to a 620 L20 clutch feel.

 

I prime the carb by pumping the fuel pump by hand then installed

Started up less than 4 secs.

Then saw the water pump gasket leak. Said fuck hope I didnt crack it by putting a longer bolt in there and separate/cracked the front cover.

Pull out rad replaced gasket and used soem Black Permantex.

Was pinging while driving. I sad hell the dizzy wasnt moved at all. But everything is slightly differnt. I loosen the 8mm nut under dizzy and readjusted the timming plate. dailed to 10 deg and runs good as of today.

I would post fotos but cant. onn this site for some reason

 

thanks to Datto510(Eric)- my Free labor. Well had to give a NGK sticker

Icehouse(Jeff Hino)- took my clothes

Datzenmike was part# infor

[Sealik]

Wa...wa...what..?.....no pics?

You need fotobucket.... :D

[HRH]

UPDATE.

 

Me and Datto510(eric) pulled the motor friday in record time however after looking behind motor and flywheel there was no oil, and lot of oil on the clutch and the bellhousing. Like honey!

Well I said SHIT!!!!!!!!!Nobody is going to have a input shaft seal lying around.

Eric broke the plate off as I didnt know How to do it.Pulled seal out and was hard as a rock

Went to NAPA none listed. I was thinking NO way. The dude must not be looking good enough NAPA usually has a list of everything,Autozone Listed a number buy N/A what ver that means

O riley listed nothing

Carquest nothing

 

Went to Younker Nissan 2 Nissan kids came running out likeing my 510!!!!! But went inside had the part# Datzenmike gave me and find out there are 4 in Alabama.

 

I read on RockAUTO.COM there are 3 verions of this seal for the 3 different sahft sizes. So I went home and spec out the 1.339 size and using Mikes part # he said it was same as the 77-79 200sx. So I blieve i have the correct part comming but Rockauto lists a Timken part# 710417 if one needs a spare incase one day or just order all version so your readly incase a trans seal goes down

 

 

If I remember right, the seal is available (or was) at NAPA, but we have only the 7mm wide one. I went and got a 10mm wide one from Brown Bearing here in town, but had to order it in. Ordered a couple while I was at it, for that same reason. The 7mm all rubber seals are really easy to tweak in the tailshaft. Should be the same seal front and rear.

 

Just went out to the garage and found my spare input/output dogleg seal. It's a 35x50x10TC Brand is Dichtomatik. Says it replaces the 13860/710324. Standard metric seal though. Should be easy to find if anyone knows how to use a seal spec book.

[datto510]

seal came in on thurday from Younker Nissan Renton

 

The Other L16 motor I had intially built is back in with the SPEC 1 clutch.(it is stiffer but dont think as much as a Roadster. Close to a 620 L20 clutch feel.

 

 

thanks to Datto510(Eric)- my Free labor. Well had to give a NGK sticker

Icehouse(Jeff Hino)- took my clothes

Datzenmike was part# infor

 

I thought this thing was going to the scrapper! I put that sticker on my wagon... brought the value up %110!

[banzai510(hainz)]

HRH

Napa in Covington couldnt finsd a number for me.

 

Rockauto had this with 2 other part numbers so I measure the shaft seal with a caliper

This is what I needed and also fits the 200sx 5 speeds also

 

TIMKEN Part # 710417 More Info Shaft Size: 1.339"; Housing Bore: 1.969"; Seal Width: 0.315"; Seal Outside Dia: 1.976"; Seal Lip Material: Polyacrylate; Housing Material: Steel; Max Temp: 300°F; Min Temp: -20°F; Seal Type: 350; Press Fit

Trans. code F4W63L; 4 speed trans.; F4W63A; Front

Trans. code F4W63; 4 speed trans.; F4W63A; Front

 

I called a Bearing supply place and they seem kinda lost on it.

 

HRH

Let me know if still avail

 

Should be the same seal front and rear.??????????

I thought so too ,but there different part numbers then I pull out calipers.

Datzenmike x ref also unless its a different trans

 

 

Its installed and running just go to see if it seals

[HRH]

Just measure whatever you have to figure out the mm dimensions, then contact your local bearing supply house and tell them you need a metric seal with those dimensions. Any bearing guy worth his salt should be able to find them. I would imagine you'd have better availability on that side of the state.

 

That 35x50x10TC is just that. 35mm shaft, 50mm bore, 10mm wide. TC is something else, just tell them it's a double lip rubber seal for an input shaft on a tranny.

[Master-O-Turbonics]

I used a SPEC stage 2+ 225mm kit on my Z car. I was very pleased with the kit and how it felt to drive.

Strong Stage 3 pressure plate with a stage 2 organic non pucked disc. Supposedly it will hold 265hp on an L6 in a 3200Lb Z car.

No chattering like with a pucked disc. good strong disc springs so it is not as soft as a stock clutch. I would say the pedal was 1.75X harder than a stock pedal, but I really liked it, had lots of clutch feel with the new master and slave cylinders.

They will do custom clutches too like a datsun clutch disc with a 26 spline or 10 spline center hub(...now why would you EVER need that??? hehe)

[banzai510(hainz)]

Update again:

After the motor swap and putting another block in an new timming kit head install Igave it a run on the Hiway and found out at about 55-60mph it would get a bad vibration.

After the panic attack (with help from phone calls) I found to loose driveline bolts.

I was ready to pull the motor and get another flywheel.

 

I put the car on Jack and stuck it in 3rd gear and it shook badly. I reved it in nuetral there was no shaking showing the flywheel/clutch was ok.

Found soem spare driveline nolts all it good.

Just inspecting the trans see if any old leaks and hope the trans input seal is good.

 

the SPEC brand clutch seems OK. Matter of fact the guy from Spec says its a 1100 pounds of clamping force. while the Roadster is 1400. But the SPEC feels stiffer.

SN201 was what part # I used(200mm listed for a 510/521s). Persoanlly the price sould be around 160 instead of 230$ but if the Roadster supply is drying up I guess this will have to do unless one uses 225mm Z cars flywheels

 

I fucking hate working on 521s. Every thing is off. some bolt sizes, Kingpins ,carrier bearings ect....

 

510s are just EZer

[banzai510(hainz)]

UPDATE again

 

The SPEC clutch SN201 200mm I have to say might be more pressure than a Roadster by feel.

I have to say it releases near the top of the pedal movement but also the stock clutch did also.

 

I have to say for a daily driver on a 521 I would get a stock clutch as MY leg is going to be HUGE .

Just to many shift points driving home pushing the fucker in 500 times a day

[The Dat-side]

Alright, I'm so confused. First off, Hi, I'm Dat-side. L20b, Dogleg. I have no idea which flywheel is in the car, but I have a 220mm (I think) in the garage.

 

I'm having this same rattling sound when shifting in higher rpms and around 60mph and engine braking. I thought this was the TO bearing, so I was pleased to see this info on spec clutches. I figured I'd just get my spare flywheel lightened, and get a clutch for that, rather than wait to see which flywheel is in the car now. But now it seems like it could be a driveline bolt or maybe Duke's problem. I'd rather not pull the engine and replace the clutch if I don't have to. But if I do sounds like I'd be better off with a stock clutch, right? This is my DD. Can I get a clutch from Nissan or Rockauto?

If that's the problem. I'll be checking the driveline once I get home.

[banzai510(hainz)]

225mm flywheels are heavier. If you have them lighten then you got the get them balance and soem people sya with the pressure plate attched but I figure its ok from the factory.

when using a 225mm clutch you need a diffeent T/O bearing and sleeve. as the 225 diaprame height is different.

 

My install on SPEC clutches was for for information purpose.

 

I would assume you have a 200mm flywheel on there that was taken from a car. like a 710/200sx. as the cars had 200mm installed. Trucks had 225mm heavier to get it going better carrying a load.

 

If you daily drive in heavy traffic and motor is meant just to get you around get a stock Daiken clutch and there are under 100$

If built motor/burn outs get a Roadster P/P if still avail

If not avail then get a SPEC stage 1.

this is all 200mm

 

On the 225mm side I would get a Aluminum flywheel(350$0 than use a Daiken stage one with the correct T/O bearing/sleeve assemble.

 

If you have a steel stock HEAVY 225mm Flywheel best used as a paper weight or just run it if you have to or you have the clutch set there or whatever .