INDY510 Posted March 11, 2014 Report Share Posted March 11, 2014 I think you need a #11 ECU, for an automatic ... the 5spd ECU's have a cut-off problem, due to no speed sensor input Check out this thread: http://community.ratsun.net/topic/51924-ka24e-acceleration-cutoff-issue/ ... Datzenmike and Icehouse have the best replies Quote Link to comment
DottiBlue Posted March 11, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 11, 2014 I think you need a #11 ECU, for an automatic ... the 5spd ECU's have a cut-off problem, due to no speed sensor inputCheck out this thread: http://community.ratsun.net/topic/51924-ka24e-acceleration-cutoff-issue/ ... Datzenmike and Icehouse have the best replies That's right. I remember reading about this awhile ago. I couldn't remember which number I needed. I have a 10 and when I searched the number, it's for a freaking manual. I'm now on the hunt for the right ecu!!!!!!!! Quote Link to comment
DottiBlue Posted March 12, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2014 I paid a guy for an auto ecu. We will see if it shows up. Quote Link to comment
DottiBlue Posted March 14, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 14, 2014 So made contact with the seller today finally. It's in the mail from New York. Should be here Saturday. I'm hoping in come tomorrow so I can out it in before Saturday. I was crawling around under Dotti today, after driving around a bit, trying to check the the diff fluid. I couldn't get the fill plug out. Sprayed it with pb blaster and will try again tomorrow. I noticed there was a leak under the left rear brake. The brake line adapter was leaking where it screwed into the wilwood caliper. Got that tightened up and it seems to have stopped. Quote Link to comment
DottiBlue Posted March 16, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 16, 2014 Dotti went on her longest drive since I've owned her today. We made it 40 miles down to busta's shop with out any major problems. She got a four wheel alignment, got the steering wheel straightened out. One tire turned around so it's facing the right way and greased all the steering linkage joints. I can't thank Busta enough for opening his shop and helping me out today. So the problems I have. The exhaust is leaking at a welded joint on the header and is dumping gas fumes into the cab. The engine falls on its fave at about 3000 rpm. I got a new computer today, put that in and it didn't make a difference. I'm going to redo the ignition timing and see if that helps. Otherwise I'm at a loss. I replaced the filler neck hose because it was leaking. Now it's worse. Not sure what I'm gonna do there now. Maybe some silicon tubing. 1 Quote Link to comment
DottiBlue Posted March 16, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 16, 2014 Oh I forgot to add that Dotti won't hold oil pressure at idle. Drops to 5-15 psi. Maybe less. Thinking about picking up a high volume oil pump to see if that helps before I trash an engine. Quote Link to comment
DottiBlue Posted March 16, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 16, 2014 Sweet! Thanks for the oics. Quote Link to comment
freetheoranges Posted March 16, 2014 Report Share Posted March 16, 2014 Forgot to ask you what putty you used on the bottom of your washer fluid reservoir to keep that hose held in...? Quote Link to comment
DottiBlue Posted March 16, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 16, 2014 It's some kinda two part putty that you mix together. I think I still have a tube of it around. Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted March 16, 2014 Report Share Posted March 16, 2014 What ECU do you have? If it has OBD cable,then one of these could be useful: http://www.ebay.com/itm/UPDATABLE-CAN-Universal-OBD2-OBD-II-Code-Scanner-Reader-NEW-TP-270-/380864349605?pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&hash=item58ad48c5a5&vxp=mtr You can scan for errors that are coming from the engine by manufacture of the engine. Then you just google the error code and the problem hunt down is a lot easier. Anyways, it could be fault on wiring harness or loose connection of some sensor (lamda, maf, tps, airpressure) Hope you will find the problem soon! For the oil pressure issue, I know some RVS line product that will make some kind of metal/ceramic layer for top of the bearings and surface with friction (cylinder 2 had valve leakage that couldn't be fixed with this) compression / cylinder 1 2 3 4 Before rvs (bar) 8,4 9,2 11,5 10,2 After rvs (bar) 12,5 9,9 12,9 13,3 Change 48,8% 7,6% 12,2% 30,4% Quote Link to comment
DottiBlue Posted March 16, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 16, 2014 The computer is before obd1. It's an 8 bit and you have to count light flashes and translate those. I pulled my o2 sensor today and it was covered in black soot. My replacement is to long to thread in because of the firewall. I think I will try jacking the engine around to see if I can gain some clearance. That rvs stuff sounds interesting. That being said, this engine is brand new, less than 100 miles on it since rebuild. About the only thing I didn't replace was the oil pump. Kicking myself now. So. I will probably replace it with a high volume to prep for future turbo fantasies. I found some last night for about 120 bucks. Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted March 17, 2014 Report Share Posted March 17, 2014 Oh... Well that's old school computer.. Hope you find the problem. Yeah, it is. I have used their bearing lubricants (ceramic coating for bearings) and heat resistance coating for pistons. So planning to remove it and have a look? Have you measured cylinder pressures? Quote Link to comment
DottiBlue Posted March 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 17, 2014 I have not check cylinder pressure. I think I'm just going to replace the oil pump and see if that fixes it. I replaced the o2 sensor and that seemed to make it quit smoking and it doesn't smell like she's running rich anymore. Still seems down on power, but I'm pretty sure it's because I sent the timing with the tps still hooked up. I disconnected one of the connections, but not the correct one. I will have to wait till Thursday before I can redo the timing. I work 12 hour graveyard shifts with an hour commute on either side. Doesn't leave much time for much else other than sleeping. I will report back with the results. Thanks for your insight! 1 Quote Link to comment
DottiBlue Posted March 21, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 21, 2014 Got Dotti retimed yesterday with the new computer installed. No difference. Somehow my buddy figured out how to read the codes on the computer and I learned i have code 45, injector leak, and he says code 23, does not exist. There is a code 32, which is for the erg system. That being said, I have a non california computer and harness, so there is no Egr temp sensor that need to be fooled with the resistor. So the computer is stuck in limp mode until this is fixed. I will try to reseat the injector seal again and I got to try to see what the other code is. All that being said, I took her for a drive today and suddenly, tick tick tick tick. I have some sorta knock developing :mad: :frantics: Im thinking bottom end, but i have not diagnosed further. Talking to my dad, who put the engine together, he thinks it could possibly be something in the valve train. To be determined......... Quote Link to comment
Busta Nut Posted March 21, 2014 Report Share Posted March 21, 2014 Oh that's just :poop: ............ Quote Link to comment
DottiBlue Posted March 21, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 21, 2014 Pretty much. Got about 150 miles on the engine. Forgot I built a drag engine. Guess I should of rebuilt before I came home from your shop. Quote Link to comment
Draker Posted March 22, 2014 Report Share Posted March 22, 2014 I'd hate to say it but if the injector is leaking and you are running rich, it's possible your oil is full of fuel... That will thin your oil and bam.. spun bearings. Other things that can happen is hydrolocks. Pull the dip stick and see if the oil smells like gas. Hope it's not a knock. fingers crossed. Quote Link to comment
DottiBlue Posted March 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 22, 2014 We shall see. I pulled the dip stick yesterday and the oil looked clear and didn't smell like fuel. I will find out more soon. Also when the injector leaks, it's normally around the rail only when it squirts. It's not a consistent seep into the engine. Quote Link to comment
skyblue Posted March 22, 2014 Report Share Posted March 22, 2014 Damn! You're So close. Git 'er dun! Quote Link to comment
DottiBlue Posted March 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 22, 2014 Yeah. I'm frustrated right now. Kinda beat up about it. It's been almost six years that I've been working at it and it's been so much fun to drive it the bit that I have. Even with the limp mode issue. I think the thing that frustrated me the most is that I would expect the rear end or trans to have an issue, but not the engine that my dad and I hand built from boxes if parts. Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted March 22, 2014 Report Share Posted March 22, 2014 Hope you find the problem soon and you can avoid the biggest damage Quote Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.