Roger Posted April 7, 2011 Report Share Posted April 7, 2011 Well, I finally got my 521 from Oregon. I got to say I am disappointed with the steering. Recirculating ball is not rack and pinion. This steering is sloppy. I see a new tie rod and the steering box is supposed to be just replaced, but still, this thing can't be taken on the interstate. Any suspects I should look at that needs replacing. Idler arm? Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted April 7, 2011 Report Share Posted April 7, 2011 Well, I finally got my 521 from Oregon. I got to say I am disappointed with the steering. Recirculating ball is not rack and pinion. This steering is sloppy. I see a new tie rod and the steering box is supposed to be just replaced, but still, this thing can't be taken on the interstate. Any suspects I should look at that needs replacing. Idler arm? I do not know where you got the idea that 521s had rack and pinion, no datsun trucks I know of have rack and pinion. Check everything to make sure it is tight, even the steering box itself. While it is sitting on the ground, have someone move the steering wheel back and forth while you get down there and find to problem. If it is the box itself, then you will need another one more than likely, complete with column, do not let the person selling it to you separate the gear from the column, I have never heard anything good coming from separating them. Quote Link to comment
DanielC Posted April 7, 2011 Report Share Posted April 7, 2011 The 521 truck uses a recirculating ball steering gear box. Trust me, before they used rack and pinion steering, they would change the kingpins to ball joints. Speaking of kingpins, they may be worn. Place both hands on the top of the front tire, and push straight in and pull out. If it moves, and especially if it has a clunk sound as it moves, you would benefit from replacing the kingpins. You can adjust the freeplay in a recirculating ball steering gear box. Go to this page: http://www.olddatsuns.com Under "quick links on the front page, click on "Factory Manuals" Scroll down to the 521 section, down load the factory service manual. The front axle section starts on page 94. The steering section starts on page 162 Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted April 7, 2011 Report Share Posted April 7, 2011 Idler arm is usually the first to wear out. Check the wheel bearings pre-load also. Quote Link to comment
datsunaholic Posted April 7, 2011 Report Share Posted April 7, 2011 How loose? I'm so used to the 1/4 wheel slop that I get in something modern and I oversteer. Non-power steering tells you everything on and about the road; power rack steering masks everything (including steering component wear). Though the 180 degrees of slop my Mom's '64 Falcon had was a bit excessive... Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted April 8, 2011 Report Share Posted April 8, 2011 Well, I finally got my 521 from Oregon. I got to say I am disappointed with the steering. Recirculating ball is not rack and pinion. This steering is sloppy. I see a new tie rod and the steering box is supposed to be just replaced, but still, this thing can't be taken on the interstate. Any suspects I should look at that needs replacing. Idler arm? It could be toed in. Hard to steer, will suddenly jump into the other lane if you hit a puddle on that side and the ditch if on the right. When turning into say, a driveway, the effort becomes easier and easier the tighter the turn. Toed out. Tire damage, miss matched sizes, bent rim, worn shocks, ride height lowered too far upsetting camber and toe. Worn rear shocks. Worn king pins. Tight or seized king pin... truck steering tight and needs effort to make adjustments. It's like the truck is riding on rails. Worn steering ball joints including the idler arm. The total of all wear is multiplied about 19 times by the ratio of the steering box. Just 1/8" will produce 2.4" of steering wheel slop. Quote Link to comment
Roger Posted April 8, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 8, 2011 The rack and pinion reference was only a comparison. I'm used to r and p and I know this steering is not right. The steering box was replaced. a tie rod was replaced 170K miles total. It has wider than stock wheels. I think I am going to do a complete steering rebuild: two tie rods, idler arm and a cross link. Toe in is 5mm so I can set that myself. Wheel bearing seem to be tight as I cant get play when shaking the front wheel. Quote Link to comment
Biggs Posted April 11, 2012 Report Share Posted April 11, 2012 DanielC - I don't get the link you reference to open and I believe I need to take up the slack in my steering gear. Do you have another reference? Quote Link to comment
420n620 Posted April 11, 2012 Report Share Posted April 11, 2012 DanielC - I don't get the link you reference to open and I believe I need to take up the slack in my steering gear. Do you have another reference? try this. I believe it's the one Dan was trying to post. http://www.olddatsuns.com/ Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted April 12, 2012 Report Share Posted April 12, 2012 steering slop you have a jam nut and a slotted part on the main gear housing. loosen the jam nut and turn it IN. then tighten the jam nut.l then try to see how the slop is. Quote Link to comment
DanielC Posted April 12, 2012 Report Share Posted April 12, 2012 I fixed the broken link in my previous post, and added another set to get to the Factory manuals. Quote Link to comment
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