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Cody's 521 Build


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How much different is an A from a J???

 

 

From looking at them side-by-side, there appear to only be two main differences. The A-series has 5 main bearings, while the J-series has 3. And the A has individual intake and exhaust ports (4 and 4) and the J has "siamesed" ports (2 intake ports, 3 exhaust). Externally they are damn near identical.

 

Of course the A-series makes more horspower and torque, too. And has better parts availability. :P

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Comparing gas prices only, what will an A-15 get as apposed to an SR normally aspirated?

 

Assuming you aren't running the factory EFI on the A15, and you're willing to "short-shift" the SR a bit, I'd say the SR would be a good bit better on fuel. Likely at least low to mid-30s in a truck that light.

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Well folks spent the entire day out there workin on the GROSSCOACH4000! My buddy saw that someone stickered '4000 gross' on the side of the bed and named the truck! LOL!!

 

Anyway, finished sorting out the 'front end electrical'. Repaired a badly damaged alternator plug, installed a modern relay for the horn, stock ones fried, sourced a wire for the electric choke relay, and pulled many a mystery wire out of the harness. Thankfully, the wiring colors are the same from 510-521!

 

EVerything up front works now, except that the turn signals need to be repaired.

 

After that i followed a mystery wire spliced into the fusebox harness down the frame rail. I tugged on it, and 2ft of wire with a broken end came up. Lame. But, it gets better! THe rest of the wires still there, it goes to the bed/cab split, and ends. Its taped to another wire of a different color. THey arent connected, just taped. This NEW wire goes back 2 more feet and is soldered to the GW wire that powers the tail lights. I think this genius thought this would bost power for trailer lights. No insulation, just some badly applied electrical tape. Fixed.

 

Then a sawzalled off the bumper! =D

 

The fog lights i scored for $4 at a flea market this morning.

 

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Poked around in the mess of trailer and tail light wiring, got the lic plate lamp to work, all tail lights work, but one rev bulb looks to be...original...WOW.

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Debugged the tail lights yesterday, what a cluster &^%$. I hate trailer wiring. I especially hate trailer wiring done by someone with a fetish for clip-splices. Also had to rip tear and destroy 3 light bulbs to get them out of the tail lights lol.

 

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Wirings done in the rear. Even after rebuilding the harnesses, ripping out old bulbs and restoring the sockets, i still has issues with the wrong lights blinking or bad/no functionality. Turns out, the factory grounding isnt working so well, so, i ran a frame ground off each tail light to a cleaned section of frame and voila! Everything worked in the rear.

 

After that i went to test the hazards. Nothing. Probed around, no power at flasher unit, no power at the cig lighter, nothing. So i dove into the engine room harness thinking i effed a wire up deleting that vacuum switch. Found nothing. Checked fuses, all good. Kept messin with it with no results until i decided to jump the 30a fuse with a test wire. BLAM! EVerything came back on. Pulled the GOOD LOOKING fuse and the cap fell off. It blew inside the cap!

 

Change all your fuses when you buy an old car, even if they are good!!

 

Great success this evening. All thats left, is interior and accessorizing. ANd of course...an engine...

 

On to pics, gotta love my stand-in 'blinker-simulators'. A test light, and a functional turn signal. hahaha. CHeck the bullet plate bolts, and the backup license light ;)

 

 

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not trying to rain on ur parade but this is not the proper way to power and trigger a relay, at that point u may as well just wire it straight to watever ur powering

It's a perfectly good way to power and trigger a 4 pin relay when using ground as the trigger. The stock configuration is the exact same way with 3 pin relays, because they already have the main power and relay trigger power connected internally. With a 4 pin relay you simply have to jump the main power to the trigger power, which is what Cody has done, in order for the trigger to work when the other side is grounded. It's certainly not the same as running power straight to the device - the relay is performing its function as desired.
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Thanks for the clarification, erichwaslike.

 

I have the engine, waiting on my full gasket kit and clutch disc!! The 510 is taking priority at the moment as its my Canby ride, but this should be running before Canby too!

 

Im gonna stick with the J13 until i can afford to complete my KA swap in the 510, then that nasty L19 i have is goin in the truck. Hehehehehe

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