Parker521 Posted December 1, 2011 Report Share Posted December 1, 2011 hi there! where do you go to get your work done that you aren't doing yourself? any reccomendations? :D Quote Link to comment
skyblue Posted December 1, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 1, 2011 hi there! where do you go to get your work done that you aren't doing yourself? any reccomendations? well i live in Marin and i have a friend that is mechanic there. he works in San Anselmo, but that may be bit far for you. Don't really know any shops in SF or East Bay. but if you are willing to travel to san anselmo he does side jobs after his shift is over at 5. he's got a couple datsuns of his own so he knows his way arond them. Quote Link to comment
Parker521 Posted December 1, 2011 Report Share Posted December 1, 2011 i'd have to drive awful slow over that 580 bridge but what the hell? i don't trust any of the people i've taken it to so far-- none of them own one. i'm just stuck on this vibration problem and i've spent about a grand trying to fix it. a drive is worth someone knowing what's up with the old datsun. and i really don't want to sell it but i'll have to if i cant fix it, you know? if he checks the forum, have him read my post and see if he's willing... but yeah! totally interested! thanks a lot! we finally drove it back home today after being parked at work for weeks! i'd like to get on with the OUTside of the truck-- and fix the seats! my pillow set-up is a joke. your truck looks great, btw... Quote Link to comment
skyblue Posted December 1, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 1, 2011 i'd have to drive awful slow over that 580 bridge but what the hell? i don't trust any of the people i've taken it to so far-- none of them own one. i'm just stuck on this vibration problem and i've spent about a grand trying to fix it. a drive is worth someone knowing what's up with the old datsun. and i really don't want to sell it but i'll have to if i cant fix it, you know? if he checks the forum, have him read my post and see if he's willing... but yeah! totally interested! thanks a lot! we finally drove it back home today after being parked at work for weeks! i'd like to get on with the OUTside of the truck-- and fix the seats! my pillow set-up is a joke. your truck looks great, btw... mkay. well let me talk to him and see if i can give you his number and you guys can talk. he'll most likely have you bring it in to see/hear the problem first hand. i read your post about the vibration, I assume thats the problem you're still working on? I actually have a bit of a vibration problem myself but i'm pretty sure its my tires and tie-rod ends. but a million bees sound is new to me. i'll keep you posted on what my friend says. :) oh and dont sell! i almost sold mine cause i was having ignition problems, but the guys here were soo helpful that i was able to fix it and let me tell you it feels soooo good when its fiixed. just hang in there.I know its a bitch but you''ll regret it if you do. just my 2 cents. :rolleyes: Quote Link to comment
Parker521 Posted December 1, 2011 Report Share Posted December 1, 2011 thanks! i cannot wait. and yeah, good advice about not selling. I am still somewhat riding the high of having, at least somewhat, successfully manufactured my very own center support bushing in my kitchen. all the car dudes that have seen it are impressed. it's funny to me that i can't do the really simple car repair things, but i could manufacture my own part fairly easily. no welding though. everyone here is really nice and helpful and so full of info. besides, how disappointed would everyone be if i sold a 521? and the bees... it's the vibration gets super LOUD. after driving over the Bay Bridge tonight, when we parked, my feet felt really strange after getting out of the truck due to all the vibrations...:blink: Quote Link to comment
lil89ram50 Posted December 2, 2011 Report Share Posted December 2, 2011 has anyone had the trans out before... sounds like the throw out bearing is either shot, or the wrong one. Quote Link to comment
skyblue Posted December 22, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 22, 2011 so i gotta a sweet used snap-on timing gun and want to set the correct timing. But here is my dilemma, I have an L16 but it is not the stock engine, in fact i think it might be off a 510 cause it had a 510 oil pan when i bought it. and i have no idea what year L16 it is. Also it has a peanut head, L20 cam and a matchbox dizzy. I checked olddatsuns.com and it lists different settings depending on year and engine. So i did some experimenting and ended up setting it at 10 degrees for the moment cause at 7 degrees it ran like poop but it runs great at 10 deg. but being that i have a fraken-engine i want to get as close to stock as possible. I did some searching and couldn't find anything specific to my scenario. what do you guys think? Quote Link to comment
DanielC Posted December 22, 2011 Report Share Posted December 22, 2011 10 degrees BTDC is a good start. How loud is the muffler? The reason I ask, advance it till it just starts to knock, and retard the timing from there about two degrees. YOU MUST BE ABLE TO HEAR IT KNOCK! If you miss the knock, and run it too far advanced too long, it really hurts the engine. Quote Link to comment
skyblue Posted December 22, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 22, 2011 the muffler is not super loud but not quiet either. when you say knock, do you mean the engine? like an actual knocking sound? Quote Link to comment
DanielC Posted December 22, 2011 Report Share Posted December 22, 2011 When the engine is running normally, the gas and air in the cylinder actually burns slowly, as far as the engine is concerned, and it pushes the piston down. When the engine knocks, the gas and air in the cylinder actually explode quickly, and instead of pushing the piston down, the effect is more like hitting the piston with a big hammer. Some people describe the sound as pinging. If you do not know what knock or pinging sounds like in an engine, just set the timing at 10 degrees BTDC, vacuum disconnected, at 700 RPM. Quote Link to comment
skyblue Posted December 22, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 22, 2011 does it sound like rattling noise? I've had cars make a a weird noise when going up hills. Quote Link to comment
DanielC Posted December 22, 2011 Report Share Posted December 22, 2011 It is a noise that happens upon opening the throttle on hills, common if you do not downshift, and lug the engine. Closing the throttle slightly makes it go away, so does downshifting. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted December 22, 2011 Report Share Posted December 22, 2011 He means Pinging(detonation) Some call it KNOCK. Depending on what head you have and gas you run it can vary from 7 to almost 15. But 10 is a Best start for your motor. They say more advance is better but if it Pings when hitting it up hill back off. Better the gas the less chance of Pinging. Open chamber heads dend t Ping more. Quote Link to comment
skyblue Posted December 22, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 22, 2011 Ok. So the more advance the better the gas should be? Its running really good at 10 btdc right now, but if i want to adjust it i should advance little by little then right? Not retard it? Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted December 23, 2011 Report Share Posted December 23, 2011 Ok. So the more advance the better the gas should be? Its running really good at 10 btdc right now, but if i want to adjust it i should advance little by little then right? Not retard it? Don't fix it, if it ain't broke. Sure you can buy chevron 91, and advance it to the ragged edge, and then buy arco 91 and have to re-time it for for that crap, if it is running good, leave it alone, but that is just my opinion. wayno Quote Link to comment
skyblue Posted December 23, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 23, 2011 Don't fix it, if it ain't broke. Sure you can buy chevron 91, and advance it to the ragged edge, and then buy arco 91 and have to re-time it for for that crap, if it is running good, leave it alone, but that is just my opinion. wayno "if it aint broke then dont try to fix it" is a favorite quote of mine. So i will do just that. Thanks guys. You all rock! Quote Link to comment
skyblue Posted January 10, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2012 so i replaced the oil pump gasket cause it was leaking oil. but after reassembly it was running crappy. So after many attempts to reinstall the pump i finally got it to run well. But the timing is way off from what it was. i Had it at 12 degrees and when i finally got it back on to where it ran smooth it was at 19 degrees and the distributor wont turn anymore to let me adjust it back to 12 degrees. The motor is now knocking too. I haven't tried using 91 gas yet to try to get rid of the knocking. My question is, is 19 degrees way too much? i ask cause the engine is actually running really well. like smooth as butter. starts right up in the morning and doesn't run hot. except for the knocking it's running the best it ever has as long as I've had the truck. whata u guys think? Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted January 10, 2012 Report Share Posted January 10, 2012 If you have detonation(pinging) quit running it, you will burn a hole in your piston/pistons, the reason you can't get it timed is that you were off a tooth or two when you installed the oilpump shaft, and you need to do it over again. Datzenmike has the photos of where the distributor driveshaft is supposed to be, maybe he will chime in. Quote Link to comment
skyblue Posted January 10, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2012 If you have detonation(pinging) quit running it, you will burn a hole in your piston/pistons, the reason you can't get it timed is that you were off a tooth or two when you installed the oilpump shaft, and you need to do it over again. Datzenmike has the photos of where the distributor driveshaft is supposed to be, maybe he will chime in. yikes! holes in my pistons i do not want. ok. Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted January 10, 2012 Report Share Posted January 10, 2012 This is a random photo I found of likely detonation damage, don't know this for sure though, but this is what can happen from knocking(pinging). Quote Link to comment
skyblue Posted January 10, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2012 oh wow that's gnarly! does that happen pretty quickly or does it take a few months? Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted January 10, 2012 Report Share Posted January 10, 2012 oh wow that's gnarly! does that happen pretty quickly or does it take a few months? Fact is I don't know how long it takes, but the idea I got from auto shop owners talking about it was the driver ignored the pinging/knocking till the engine died. Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted January 10, 2012 Report Share Posted January 10, 2012 This is where the distributor drive is supposed to be when installed correctly, the small side of the end of the shaft forward clocked to about 11:30, the big side towards the intake. This photo was taken while standing on the drivers side of engine compartment. When the distributor is dropped in, the rotor should point to about 4pm. 12pm is strait up. Quote Link to comment
skyblue Posted January 10, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2012 great i will redo. thanks for pic. is it safe to say to line up the end of the shaft with the mounting holes? Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted January 10, 2012 Report Share Posted January 10, 2012 great i will redo. thanks for pic. is it safe to say to line up the end of the shaft with the mounting holes? That is the way it looks in the photo, but no one has ever discribed it that way, it has always been discribed as 11:28, or something like that, keep in mind that the engine has to be TDC, with #1 cylinders cam lobes at 10am and 2pm, clock the dist' drive at 11:30ish with the fat side towards the intake, and on a L20b block the rotor should be pointed at 4pm, that will be #1 spark plug wire, counter clockwise 1-3-4-2 firing order. Quote Link to comment
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