Whats wrong with my paint?

[Dirk Diggler]

I painted this about a week ago, and left it completely alone in my garage the whole time to dry.

I dusted it off and wiped it down, and shot a coat of clear. I came out in about an hour to look at it, and this is what I saw

.

 

Im using rustoleum candy apple red, with rustoleum gloss clear. I sanded down the oiginal paint, then shot 3 coats of red. That happened on my first coat of clear. You can see the obvious part in the background, but up front it has a finger print type or look. What would cause this?

[Guest DatsuNoob]

Did you degrease properly prior to painting, did the metal have a high enough ambient temp?

[merlin]

i had the same thing happen on 2 rims i painted. In my case , the metal was too cold and the paint was too thick.. the paint cured on the surface, but not to the metal so it pulled up and crinkled up when i resprayed... cleaned that section off , got the heat up to house temp and did it again and it was fine.

[the510keeper]

Base coat should be cleared after min time. If allowed to dry should be lightly sanded with 600gt and rebased. Once base has had to much time to dry, solvents in clear will react with base and wrinkle. Try it again with good heat and less base dry time, if you can touch it you can clear it. Make sure all the cans are compatible.

Good luck

[Wide14u]

Base coat should be cleared after min time. If allowed to dry should be lightly sanded with 600gt and rebased. Once base has had to much time to dry, solvents in clear will react with base and wrinkle. Try it again with good heat and less base dry time, if you can touch it you can clear it. Make sure all the cans are compatible.

Good luck

 

listen to him have you seen his paint jobs all i can say is wow

[Dirk Diggler]

Ok this all makes sense. It's about 45 degrees in the garage and I didn't degrease. Can I use something like simple green to degrease it?

 

As for the clear, you're saying it should be done before the final coat is completely dry? I'm new to painting things, I guess I should have read up on it more haha

[Wide14u]

simple green is oil base not good

[Guest DatsuNoob]

Go down to a local body supply shop and get a good oil/grease remover and some scotchbrite pads, they'll hook you up. James knows quite a bit more about paint than me, but I've used Marine Clean with good results. I think it's between 10 and 15 bucks a quart and you can dilute it, just use warm to hot water, that stuff likes hot water. Works way better that way. He might know of something else though.

[the510keeper]

Spray paints are different from catalyzed paints. But most the principles are the same. Warm, clean, and sanded. Sometimes caned spray paint is not to be cleared over. The clear is already in the packaging of the color. So check the can to make sure you can spray clear materials over it.

[deltapeco]

get it back down to bare metal and wipe it down with a clean cloth dipped in acitone?

[FoxyRoadster]

Go down to a local body supply shop and get a good oil/grease remover and some scotchbrite pads, they'll hook you up. James knows quite a bit more about paint than me, but I've used Marine Clean with good results. I think it's between 10 and 15 bucks a quart and you can dilute it, just use warm to hot water, that stuff likes hot water. Works way better that way. He might know of something else though.

 

 

That stuff works good, just have to be careful as it will pull rattle can paint off lol

[oz411]

heat my friend :cool: and yeah clean the hell out of it

[Jester]

If you want to pick up some CHEAP lacquer thinner for cleaning, call a local body shop to see if they recycle theirs. If they don't just give it away, they will sell it to you CHEAP!!! Works great for cleaning greasy parts too.

[Icehouse]

We had that problem on my hood. We didn't take it to bare metal because it had such good paint and was really straight with no rust. Well What ever paint it was didn't like the Durabuild primer and did the same thing. It turned out that the paint we where going over wasn't original paint, the primer we used pretty much made all the second layer of non factory paint peal right off, right down to the original paint. It sucked! Lesson learned, going to metal isn't that hard and it makes primer stick so much better.

[metalmonkey47]

Not sure if anyone asked yet, but did you use primer?

[Dirk Diggler]

I didnt use primer. This was just a test to see how it would turn out. I sanded down the original paint because it was really clean. Seeing how it did turn out, I will definitely be going down to bare metal (picked up a grinder and sanding disks today) and using a primer. Here is what I plan on doing for the final run, please correct me if any of this is wrong or if you have any tips.

 

1) Get down to bare metal and clean with either lacquer thinner, acetone, or something else.

2) Spray a thin tack coat and let that dry.

3) Spray 1 full coat, let dry for 24-48 hours, depending on heat, then wet sand (or could I get away with using regular fine sand paper?)

4) Spray second coat, wait a few hours until I can touch it

5) Spray clear, then sand and repeat with 2 additional coats.

 

After I have it all done, I plan on leaving it be for a few months to let it really cure, then wet sanding the entire car and polishing it. I havent figured out how I will heat the garage just yet, but I will make sure its around 70 when I paint it.

[VintageRice]

Go to ANY store that sells car paint (napa, wesco, ect...)and they'll have "wax and grease remover" use the right stuff. None of this acetone or thinner crap. Use the right tool for the job. It's not expensive and will do what it's made to do. Remove wax and grease.

 

Wipe the entire area down with a clean paper towel wet with the remover. Then wipe it down again with a dry paper towel. Then let dry a few minutes, and then spray. If you want to get really picky you can hit it with a tack cloth right before spraying but thats kinda anal.(no butt jokes.)

[Dirk Diggler]

Well I broke out the grinder today and got one of the fenders down to bare metal for some more tests. I didnt realize the headlight bucket was plastic until the grinder already cut into it, so looks like ill be sanding on it for a while. I used wax and grease remover like vintage said, then I took the trim off of the fender and filled the holes and general area with body filler (it was pretty beat up from pulling the trim off). I dont have time to sand down the body filler today, so after it was dry I shot a coat of primer for now to keep it from rusting, then this week I will sand down the body filler and primer and continue until done.

[oz411]

gonna have to fill those holes with something better it will work for a while but will fall out soon enough

[izzo]

mineral spirits works good to :D

[jun]

How heavy did you lay on that first coat of clear? That can happen if you lay on the first coat too heavy. When I paint, I always give it a light first coat, let it flash, then go medium on the 2nd and 3rd coat. A good wax and grease remover goes without saying, and don't handle your parts prior to paint after you had fried chicken or pizza in your hands :lol:

[Dirk Diggler]

I did the first coat really thin. It only did it in that one spot, and I pulled at it and all of the clear as well as ever coat of paint I sprayed came off. I think it was because of the lack of primer and because it was cold. Ive gotten into the habit of wearing powder free latex or nitrile gloves to handle things before and after paint.

 

I do plan on welding the trim holes later down the road when I get a real paint job, this is just for the time being because brown is my least favorite color. So much that I almost didnt buy the car because of the color.

[oz411]

I did the first coat really thin. It only did it in that one spot, and I pulled at it and all of the clear as well as ever coat of paint I sprayed came off. I think it was because of the lack of primer and because it was cold. Ive gotten into the habit of wearing powder free latex or nitrile gloves to handle things before and after paint.

 

I do plan on welding the trim holes later down the road when I get a real paint job, this is just for the time being because brown is my least favorite color. So much that I almost didnt buy the car because of the color.

 

Fair enough, as long as its primed, clean and warm you cant go wrong

[The Dat-side]

I was going to powdercoat my wheels but my "powdercoat guy" is busy (woulda prob been free). So I'll be painting them. Thanks for all the good info guys.

[Dirk Diggler]

What are the wheels made of? I want to paint mine, but they're aluminum and everything I've read says painting aluminum is really difficult