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sdsurf

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i've ran my truck out of gas enough times to know the fuel pump doesnt need primed, well not mine anyways.. i've prolly ran out of gas 10 times (gauge dont work) an every time it only takes a few cranks an vroom shes runnin now maybe im lucky.. maybe theres still a little in there but not enough to start the truck an keep it goin idk..

 

i'd check fuel lines.. or try pourin a cap full or two of gas dont the carb an see if it starts.. back track from there

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I pulled the fuel line off at the carb and I am getting nothing. I am going to try to stick a hose in a remote tank a nd see if the pump is pumping. There may be a problem in the tank or from the tank to the fuel pump. That will be my next trial...

i've ran my truck out of gas enough times to know the fuel pump doesnt need primed, well not mine anyways.. i've prolly ran out of gas 10 times (gauge dont work) an every time it only takes a few cranks an vroom shes runnin now maybe im lucky.. maybe theres still a little in there but not enough to start the truck an keep it goin idk..

 

i'd check fuel lines.. or try pourin a cap full or two of gas dont the carb an see if it starts.. back track from there

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If it's an old fuel pump theres a chance the diaphram is bad which means it wont suck any gas from the tank. Do like you mentioned..run a hose from a gas can up to the fuel pump supply..then disconnect the fuelk line at the carb & run that into another container..a glass jar would be perfect cause you can see if its working. If the pump is bad Kragen has them for $40 or so.

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It's alive!!! I got it running today (sunday afternoon, no exhaust) with old style fuel pump and gas from a can but it's alive!!!!

 

10-5-08.jpg

 

Does anyone have a pic of the throttle cable as it attaches to the hitachi carb?

 

 

 

 

Is that a stock Hitachi carb is see there :thumbsup:

 

How is it working for you?

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Set the points gap to 0.018" to 0.022" and slightly loosen the distributor clamp bolt so it can be rotated by hand. Turn clockwise to advance and the other way to retard. Many things such as octane, even the same octane in another brand, temperature and humidity can affect the best position for your ignition advance. Set with a timing light using the gas you expect to use normally.

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Is that a stock Hitachi carb is see there :thumbsup:

 

How is it working for you?

Haven't driven it yet as I am missing a few parts but run wise it seems good.

 

Set the points gap to 0.018" to 0.022" and slightly loosen the distributor clamp bolt so it can be rotated by hand. Turn clockwise to advance and the other way to retard. Many things such as octane, even the same octane in another brand, temperature and humidity can affect the best position for your ignition advance. Set with a timing light using the gas you expect to use normally.

 

I got the points set at .020 and it seems good. I wanted to know how to set the dwell..

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Well yesterday I put the slave cylinder back in and ran a new hose to the hard pipe. Then installed the clutch master cylinder. Got a chance to fire her up and presto! The clutch is engaging!!!!

 

Next topic. I timed her and my light is hitting on the second mark from the left facing the front of the engine. I don't have the degreed timing tab just the old pointer. Does this sound timed correctly?

 

Also, I don't have a tachometer to tell what the idle is at but it sounds good. Any tips on this?

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2eDeYe;87627'']Dwell and point gap are inter-related. You can't adjust one without changing the other.

 

True.

 

2eDeYe;87627'']To adjust the dwell you will need a dwell meter. It's much easier to just set the points.

 

Not on the older Chevy V8's. Pull 'n' plug the distributor vacuum hose, hook up the dwell meter, start the engine, insert the adjusting tool into the front of the dizzy and dial that dwell in perfectly.

 

OTOH, setting points on a 914 is cake. :D

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Next topic. I timed her and my light is hitting on the second mark from the left facing the front of the engine. I don't have the degreed timing tab just the old pointer. Does this sound timed correctly?

 

well today I finally got an engine in it!

 

I've re-read this thread twice, but I don't know what engine you dropped in. Guessing it's a L, but L-what? Year?

 

Also, I don't have a tachometer to tell what the idle is at but it sounds good. Any tips on this?

 

Buy a cheap dwell/tach meter.

Edited by ppeters914
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Well yesterday I put the slave cylinder back in and ran a new hose to the hard pipe. Then installed the clutch master cylinder. Got a chance to fire her up and presto! The clutch is engaging!!!!

 

Next topic. I timed her and my light is hitting on the second mark from the left facing the front of the engine. I don't have the degreed timing tab just the old pointer. Does this sound timed correctly?

 

Also, I don't have a tachometer to tell what the idle is at but it sounds good. Any tips on this?

 

There should be a total of 5 or 6 marks on the crank pulley. From the left, 5* after tdc, 0* TDC, 5* btdc, 10* btdc, 15* btdc, and 20* btdc... there you have it...

 

The saw tooth pointer you are refering to came on the L20b but they had one mark on the pulley, the L16 just has the single pointer and multiple marks on the pulley.

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