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anyone mess with a remote turbo?


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Well I think the stock R16 could handle a bit of boost, just would need to watch it due to the headgasket.. If I was too worried about compression I could just swap to an H20 head.

 

I'd say honestly I'd have maybe 300 bucks in the whole turbo setup as the SU carbs can be setup for blow through.

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Well youd have to run the short emmissions advance curve on the distributer, with no vacume advance, so itll fall on its face out of the hole, otherwise youll blow head gaskets, and if you build an airbox for the SU's what are you going to do with the steering shaft, which runs right through there, barley any clearance as is, time you build a big old sealed airbox around there you wont have any. not to mention trying to re tune the damn carbs, which wont like the whole thing at all.

 

not to rain on your parade, but unless you own the turbo already. and a machine shop fabrication shop the exhaust work alone will cost more than 300 buck to do right.

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I was gonna go with megajolt as the ignition system and the exhaust I will have to run new pipe anyways. As for the air box you shouldn't need anything bigger then the stock air filter box as you don't need to seal the SU's up to run blow through on them.

 

As for tuning, just be buying different needles and adjusting the mixture. I'm considering finding me some 2L carbs, that or buying some side draft webers or dellortos.

 

I had originally planned to do a suck through supercharger but am opting to try something interesting as I'm using the sc on another car. :P

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Well youd have to run the short emmissions advance curve on the distributer, with no vacume advance, so itll fall on its face out of the hole, otherwise youll blow head gaskets, and if you build an airbox for the SU's what are you going to do with the steering shaft, which runs right through there, barley any clearance as is, time you build a big old sealed airbox around there you wont have any. not to mention trying to re tune the damn carbs, which wont like the whole thing at all.

 

There will likely be almost no boost below 3,000 RPMs. All vacuum advance is in by this time anyway so I don't see a problem. 3-5 lbs of boost is manageable by most engines and factory turbos from back in the '80s were pegged at about 7 psi. 5psi should produce about 30% increase in power. The SU's are probably tuned to be slightly rich at full throttle and the needle tips can be sanded down to make them thinner and richen it up even more for boost. But really 3-5psi isn't that much and likely will run fine as is.

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The closer the turbo is to the cylinder head, the hotter the exhaust gasses are. Hot gases take up more volume than cold gasses, so it is effectively more gasses closer to the head. This allows you to run a less restrictive, larger turbocharger to keep temperatures down. Also with the turbo closer to the engine, less plumbing of air charge pipes, oil lines, and a safe place for the air filter.(think burnout, big rock or hot tire goes flying and chunks through your air filter, and then destroys your engine....)

 

 

Rear turbo is just not worth it in my opinion for ANY forced induction turbo system, except on a VW bug or Porsche 911 or similar vehicle. ;-)

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The closer the turbo is to the cylinder head, the hotter the exhaust gasses are. Hot gases take up more volume than cold gasses, so it is effectively more gasses closer to the head. This allows you to run a less restrictive, larger turbocharger to keep temperatures down. Also with the turbo closer to the engine, less plumbing of air charge pipes, oil lines, and a safe place for the air filter.(think burnout, big rock or hot tire goes flying and chunks through your air filter, and then destroys your engine....)

 

 

Rear turbo is just not worth it in my opinion for ANY forced induction turbo system, except on a VW bug or Porsche 911 or similar vehicle. ;-)

 

Too much heat and not enough room under my hood, intake will be in the trunk, oil lines wont be an issue as will have its own oil system, overall I am thinking with the location I'm wanting it at I'd not have that much piping for the charge piping considering no intercooler needed. I'm not needing 20psi, just 5psi above 3000 rpm which should be very doable. Considering I just did a crapload of bodywork to save this datsun I'd rather not cut up the rust free engine bay area to fit my turbo.

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I'm going to be doing a bit more to the car tonight, I'll messure out the piping I need but shouldnt be longer then 8 feet since its going under the cargo area which is literally behind the drivers seat... Hell the car is 13 feet long :cool:

 

 

Looking at jegs and can buy the pipe straight and bend it to what I want, even order U bends. Might just use exhaust pipe to also make the charge pipes.

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gotta remember I'm running the stock R16 and keeping carbs. Plenty of room on the other side of the engine yes, but not a crossflow head. Look at how jammed up that U20 is, sure it will fit but if I need to remove the header or such look out!

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As the owner of the U20 turbo, I can confirm the jammed up engine bay. :lol: Took quite a while to get everything to fit WITHOUT cutting up the engine bay. I also spent a fair amount of time making sure everything is serviceable. Even with all the time and effort, I personally would not run a rear turbo.

 

Mark

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As the owner of the U20 turbo, I can confirm the jammed up engine bay. :lol: Took quite a while to get everything to fit WITHOUT cutting up the engine bay. I also spent a fair amount of time making sure everything is serviceable. Even with all the time and effort, I personally would not run a rear turbo.

 

Mark

 

 

You running EFI too or just edis ignition? I noticed no dizzy.

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