anyone mess with a remote turbo?

[FoxyRoadster]

Just curious if anyone here has messed with one at all? I've read different things on them and considering a way to not cut my body and install a turbo without jamming everything under the hood of my roadster as I have a crapton of room under the car and the turbo would be protected by a frame.

[datzenmike]

While it will work, the highest exhaust pressure is as close to the head as possible. Like wise the long boost pipe coming back to the motor will take longer to bring to boost pressure. (turbo lag)

[Skib]

(turbo lag)

 

 

fixed. :lol:

 

[FoxyRoadster]

While it will work, the highest exhaust pressure is as close to the head as possible. Like wise the long boost pipe coming back to the motor will take longer to bring to boost pressure. (turbo lag)

 

 

Most the kits I've read about don't have too much lag, but they also aren't running above 7 psi, I'm going to take a guess at sizing the turbo and nab something up for a smaller then 1600cc engine. I know up close it has more then just pressure but the air is a lot "thicker" and thins out through the rear.

 

 

and skib no naaaws my gf would murder me with an axe

[Skib]

 

 

and skib no naaaws my gf would murder me with an axe

 

 

with that and the turbo you could out run her no problem! :lol:

[Pumpkn210]

While it will work, the highest exhaust pressure is as close to the head as possible. Like wise the long boost pipe coming back to the motor will take longer to bring to boost pressure. (turbo lag)

Would have to dissagree with ya, Boost is the same al along the line! If it has boost at the inlet, it is al the outlet aswell. And its better to have the Cooler Denser Air running thru the Turbo!

Read this!

And this!

And

Remote installations

Turbochargers are sometimes mounted well away from the engine, in the tailpipe of the exhaust system. Such remote turbochargers require a smaller aspect ratio due to the slower, lower-volume, denser exhaust gas passing through them. For low-boost applications, an intercooler is not required; often the air charge will cool to near-ambient temperature en route to the engine. A remote turbo can run 300 to 600 degrees[citation needed] cooler than a close-coupled turbocharger, so oil coking (forming solid residue) in the bearings is of much less concern. Remote turbo systems can incorporate multiple turbochargers in series or parallel.

[FoxyRoadster]

Would have to dissagree with ya, Boost is the same al along the line! If it has boost at the inlet, it is al the outlet aswell. And its better to have the Cooler Denser Air running thru the Turbo!

Read this!

And this!

And

 

 

I'm kinda iffy about what STS says on everything but their kits seem to show no major lag on lots of cars on youtube.

[Pumpkn210]

I'm kinda iffy about what STS says on everything but their kits seem to show no major lag on lots of cars on youtube.

Thats why I posted other info.

Just Fucking Google it . com ;)

[FoxyRoadster]

I've googled it quite a bit, just always good to hear first hand experience from people. :cool:

[datzenmike]

Testimonials always say what the manufacturer wants and are an opinion only. I still say that the further from the motor the less exhaust to work with so potentially there is less energy to run the turbo. Yes the pressure at any point in the return (boost) will be the same, but a longer pipe will take longer to fill and require more air before the pressure begins to rise. Plug a 10 ft air line into a compressed air supply and then compare to a 30 foot line. The longer line will take longer to fill to pressure.

[FoxyRoadster]

Testimonials always say what the manufacturer wants and are an opinion only. I still say that the further from the motor the less exhaust to work with so potentially there is less energy to run the turbo. Yes the pressure at any point in the return (boost) will be the same, but a longer pipe will take longer to fill and require more air before the pressure begins to rise. Plug a 10 ft air line into a compressed air supply and then compare to a 30 foot line. The longer line will take longer to fill to pressure.

 

 

yeah, I'm aware its not going to be the same as on the header, but I'm considering it since I'm only having like 3-4 feet added (don't plan on an intercooler) vs some of these other cars almost 10 if not more.

 

I thought this was funny :D

[datzenmike]

It's an interesting idea, not sayin' it won't work, it just has some limitations.

[FoxyRoadster]

It's an interesting idea, not sayin' it won't work, it just has some limitations.

 

I get that, yur just trying to keep me from hoping for major boost and it falling flat on its face.

 

 

I'm just hopping for a little kick in rear and not fill up my engine bay.

[datzenmike]

If running low boost use a small diameter return pipe to keep the lag down. Doesn't have to be like those 3"-4" ones you see on regular turbo cars. The smallest turbo will spool the fastest, it won't have huge output but you won't be needing it anyway. Any way to insulate the exhaust pipe to keep the gasses hot? Turbo or very non restrictive muffler. Hey, I'm getting into this!

[Pumpkn210]

From the research that I have done, it is not really that hard to get the same performance out of a rear mount. You use a larger turbo to help with the lag and the fact that the exhaust is completely done decompressing. The closer the turbo is to the exhaust valves (Cause of the compressed gasses) the more effective it is and can be a smaller size. But the rear mount has alot of advantages aswell, as previously stated. I personally would go rear mount strictly for the heat difference, way easier on the equipment!

[Pumpkn210]

Turbo or very non restrictive muffler. Hey, I'm getting into this!

I have alwayse wanted to turn a muffler into a Jet Engine. Add fresh air and some fuel, make a combustion chamber and lite it on fire inside. Would Pull the exhaust out and act like a Pulling Turbo... I think it will work, just need to do some more research and such!

[freekwonder]

Only way I would go rear mount is if there was NO room under hood. Under hood > rear/remote mount.

[fastdadd]

my question is where do you mount the air intake...have you seen how wet the under side of a car gets in the rain

[FoxyRoadster]

If running low boost use a small diameter return pipe to keep the lag down. Doesn't have to be like those 3"-4" ones you see on regular turbo cars. The smallest turbo will spool the fastest, it won't have huge output but you won't be needing it anyway. Any way to insulate the exhaust pipe to keep the gasses hot? Turbo or very non restrictive muffler. Hey, I'm getting into this!

 

 

could use header wrap, not the best but if you use the silicone spray would help keep moisture from killing the pipe..

 

 

My main reasons for wanting this is space in the engine bay and the roadsters are known for running hot in the engine bay so would help keep temp down. I'm thinking of just throwing together a junkyard kit and see how it runs.. I'm thinking my main cost would be the intake piping and the turbo, I've got plans to stick the air filter inside my trunk to keep moisture away from it.

[bonvo]

this is an option ive ben considering for a while it wouldnt be to difficult to do with the way my exhaust is currently configured and a little boost is nice dont need much just enough to wake things up if calliway makes it work on corvettes making 700+ horsepower then it can give a datto a kick in the ass

[metalmonkey47]

fixed. :lol:

 

 

Fixed V2.0!

 

 

[FoxyRoadster]

well I think going from stock to 5 psi would be a kick in the ass for my 96 hp of pushrod fury! Plus have it all hid from the eye so people will think its one of these http://www.streetbeatcustoms.com/TurboTip/Turbo-Charger-Kit/Fake-Turbo-Sound-Tip/533190/

 

:P

[Pumpkn210]

I SO WANT 4 OF THOSE :lol:

[FoxyRoadster]

I SO WANT 4 OF THOSE :lol:

 

Quad turbo for the win! :cool:

[csp54]

So I gather from your post your planning on boosting an r16, so you cant run much boost anyway on an otherwise stock motor (stock compression is to high). But longer tubes DO increase lag, exhaust gases cool lowering their equivalent volume, plus parasitic loss due to the long tubes. Small turbo and low boost will decrease this effect allot (smaller spool revs up quicker and your asking it to do less). But you also get less out of all that effort. Curious as to what you intend to run for induction. You could probably make as much power for similar expense by building an r16 stroker (2 liter r 16) with a good cam and a little head work, 2L SU's or webber/mikuni, or even adapt MC carbs 150- 160 HP is a doable number. r16 engines are practically free, so you could take your time and build it up right then just bolt it in.

 

I think youd be throwing good money after bad tryin to turbo, other than the coolness factor. If you just want more power a KA swap is relatively cheep and VERY effective and of course the sr swap that EVERYBODY seems to be doing ( more $$). But Ive seen stroked R series motors with buick pistons pushing like 2.3 liters, GOBS of low end torque and good HP numbers while still keeping the "appearance" of an r series engine. I bought a good 2L crank the other day for 20 bucks, and of course all the forklift motors are 2 liter as well and parts are cheep