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My first car, a 510...And ZX N/A->T


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Sad I have completed so little in the past 5 months since I posted in this thread... Though I have collected many, many more parts towards getting this running. Hoping to be running by the end of the year...(HA)

 

 

Anyway, I got some solex locks installed. There was some surface rust on the door around the lock, thats why I stripped all of that. Forgot to get a pic.

 

From china...

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The locks didn't fit into the 510 the way they are suppose to go in.

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I cut it to fit. It looks a lot smoother than this when I was finished, I forgot to get a pic though.

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I just sprayed a little primer onto where I had removed the paint from the metal.

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I forgot to get pics from before, but here is the finished lock on the other door. Sloppy job with the primer, didn't think of the over spray. :(

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Other things. polished my wheels, got tires then found out my wheels where 4x100.

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Trans crossmember.

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And lots of other things, I got distributor cap/rotor, brake pads/shoes, wheel cylinders, hardware, clutch master/slave, ect. Also looked through all the cool stuff I got with the car, complete set of new front bushings, ect. Even got my engine hoist!

 

I'm going to finish assembling everything soon. I still have some stuff to buy before I will have everything.

 

 

Is that trans x member for a z 5 speed? How much was it? Does it fit right? And where do I get 1 if it all checks out?

 

Nice goon!!!

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  • 1 month later...

Is that trans x member for a z 5 speed? How much was it? Does it fit right? And where do I get 1 if it all checks out?

 

Nice goon!!!

 

I'll let you know if it fit once its installed. mellow.gif I think I got it from some VG30.com's ebay site.

 

 

 

So I've been working a bit. Found out my driver side frame under the fender has a rust hole in it. sad.gif

Going to paint the hood, got some POR-15 to properly finish the fender/some rust spots also.

img20110528181703.jpg

 

The passanger side fender mount bolt broke off... And then while tapping the extractor in, it broke off inside the bolt.

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I bought a sawzall and cut the shifter hole back 4 inches.

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T/O bearing replaced. Guys at kragan where awesome, let me in the back and helped me figure out the tools to pull the old one off.

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Replaced the wheel bearings.

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Cut the hangers from the exhaust system and removed it.

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Why I cut the exhaust out;

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So my sister helped me assemble this today..

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Then I started doing stuff. (Blue loctite is on the OEM nissan FW bolts torqued to 76ft-lb... lol @ 11lb flywheel)

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Every time I lower it down I remember how much I love the stance and look of a 510.

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Thats it for today, tomorrow I have some stuff to do but I want to the engine in. Going to at least go to the hardware store and get more needed bolts.

 

 

Also, what goes here, and where can I buy it? On the clutch fork...

img20110604205410.jpg

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A stock 510 slave

 

OK... I have to wait for that to arrive now. At least its not some major part that will prevent me from doing anything else. rolleyes.gif

 

Though, in the diagram in the shop manual it shows a little pivot piece that goes in there?

 

 

eidt- I now see that the slave is suppose to come with it. Just ordered a new one.

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looks like a 200mm T/O bearing?

makes sure you match this up correctly esp if this is 225mm flywheel. 225mm use a different T/O bearing and sleeve compared to a stock 510 set up.!!!!!!!!!

 

as for the clutchforf with the hole in it you need the 510 threaded shaft with the Ball and jam nut. The slave itself all the 510s and up slaves will work its just the rod. the laterones is just a rounded end on shaft to fit the later clutchforks which just have a indentation.

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looks like a truck oil pan.

Most use a 510 pan . But as long as the sump gets oil and it isnt hitting anything I guess its OK. Never heard of using a truck pan.

 

the Dave carrol X member most people screw it from the bottom up. and use shorter bolts,

 

but looks good

 

what trans spacer you use for the X meber I forget which one to use. 280ZX or soem Z car???????

since I thik this is a L20b and you have the tall carb adapter it will hit the hood unless you use the short aircleaner

 

also most people use the stock 510 motor mounts that bolts to the block.

 

Look like you got a miss mash of parts your throwing together

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looks like a truck oil pan.

Most use a 510 pan . But as long as the sump gets oil and it isnt hitting anything I guess its OK. Never heard of using a truck pan.

 

the Dave carrol X member most people screw it from the bottom up. and use shorter bolts,

 

but looks good

 

what trans spacer you use for the X meber I forget which one to use. 280ZX or soem Z car???????

since I thik this is a L20b and you have the tall carb adapter it will hit the hood unless you use the short aircleaner

 

also most people use the stock 510 motor mounts that bolts to the block.

 

Look like you got a miss mash of parts your throwing together

 

 

Yeah the oil pan nearly hits the steering rack ... but it seems to be OK. The trans>x-member? I used a 280zx mount. As for the bolts, the threads at the top where stripped so I just estimated the size and got them from the hardware store.

 

Haha, that make sense why I'm having trouble figuring this out, then. The mounts are 510 ones, the metal peices where on the engine from the p/o .. .

 

I'll contact the p/o see if I can grab a 510 oil pan from him.

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Tiny updates. Figured out most of the wiring, found out my kyosan pump is for a Z engine, ordered a better weber adapter with linkages for my lokar throttle cable.

 

 

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Cleaned off the back seat... Added some seat belts.

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Sticker collection so far..cool.gif

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Lookin good! Where did you get the seat belts? are they new?



New from summit racing. biggrin.gif

They are A LOT longer than they need to be, so I tucked all the slack under the seat.


More...
New beck/arnley fuel pump from rockauto, opened the box and look whats inside! A kyosan! lol.
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Drilled out throttle pedal to fit a cable.
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Better weber adapter.
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And please, if anyone has any tech info or general advice link anything that could be possibly useful!

I have very little experience with this project and its almost becoming discouraging finding how much is actually missing, and figuring out what parts go where for what.

I need to get this project running!

Putting the engine in was the easy part.

 
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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Figured I'd update this, thanks to hainz, datzenmike, and whoever else posted in my help threads I got it running!!

 

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Honestly I dunno why people where saying I would not like an 11lb flywheel... Its extremely easy to drive after learning on an S2000 and 350z.

 

Oh- and,

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z2S6sK7y_NY

 

 

 

biggrin.gif

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Awesome to see the car running!

 

and this sticker, the one with the electric bolt and engine, its a VW joke. It is the "check emissions light". The joke about it is that (some mk3, and almost all mk4 VWs like mine) that light will randomly light up and will never turn back off. You can get the codes cleared, and the light will come back on anywhere from 1 day, to 6 months. You usually only see VW owners with that sticker on their car.

 

img20110613195337.jpg

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Awesome to see the car running!

 

and this sticker, the one with the electric bolt and engine, its a VW joke. It is the "check emissions light". The joke about it is that (some mk3, and almost all mk4 VWs like mine) that light will randomly light up and will never turn back off. You can get the codes cleared, and the light will come back on anywhere from 1 day, to 6 months. You usually only see VW owners with that sticker on their car.

 

Oh, I thought it was a check engine light... mellow.gif Not going to put most of those on my datsun anyway, was mostly for the sarcasm factor. The only stickers I'm going to put on it are probably going to be just ratsun and JNC.

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Bitchin wagon, man!

 

Id get the pool ball threaded instead of epoxy-ing it on there...what if you need to get a new shift boot or take it out for some reason, later.

 

 

Then I see the turn sig wires not hooked up.I thought maybe I should fix it. Then said NO!

 

:lol: youre a funny dude, hainz

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Ha, thanks . Yeah threaded would be great I still gotta figure a better mounting solution out. Maybe I'll epoxy it, re-drill and thread.. would that work ? I think I drilled it too far out to thread it. :(

I actually got some other type of goop glue stuff that didnt really work, so its not fully secure.. it will rotate around a bit. Kinda ghetto, NOT ratsun. mellow.gif

I'm probably going to get a carpet kit so the huge hole in the center console is covered, so at least stones/little things wont be flying up through there. I had my dime to 50-60 and honestly I didn't notice it. Probably cause of the open headers, though.laugh.gif

 

 

I'm gonna call troy ermish later this week and ask if they can get my exhaust system welded back in.

 

 

Rad mounting is solid!! awesome.

Hood pins hold really well, no problems there.

 

Also my turn signals don't work, They are just solid lights. :(

 

I picked up a timing light tonight, talked to the Z guy at kragan, ect. Gonna time and tune the car tomorrow then take it for a proper spin!!(Not literally..)

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