ztommyx510 Posted October 9, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2010 holy pics quote batman! lol. you need two pumps, one feed one return. surge tank is for... surge. so when you take hard corner your car won't starve on fuel. here's an update! no update, but do have questions on carpet... has anyone order their carpet kit from stock interiors? (www.stockinteriors.com) if so, how does these kit go on? a bit confused. Quote Link to comment
dgi Posted October 9, 2010 Report Share Posted October 9, 2010 1). Take the top piece in the picture to the car. Pick up the heat gun off the shiny dynamat and get it out of the way. Lay the carpet in the floorboard just in front of the rear seat riser with the little cutouts around the front seat risers and bolt holes. Be sure to put the nappy side up! 2). Take the left piece in the picture and spin it around 180 degrees. Take it to the car and slide it up under the heater outlet and drape it over the transmission hump. You most likely will need to cut a hole in the carpet for the shifter, it works better that way. :unsure: CAUTION: Don't cut a hole in the carpet if you've already welded in the hole in the transmission hump because you've already installed the paddle shifters you jacked of that Ferrari last week on the steering wheel. 3). Take the center piece in the picture to the passenger side of the car. Slide it in the floorboard after removing all the stuff that is on top of the dynamat. 4). OK, here is the tough one. Take the right piece in the picture to the driver's side of the car. Slide it in the floorboard after removing all the stuff that is laying on top of the dynamat in that area. Watch out for the throttle pedal... it will try to hold the carpet up off the floorboard AND the carpet will try to push the pedal down so you engine revs up too high. I've heard that sometimes they put a hole in the carpet in the right place to slip over the pedal to help with that problem, but that could just be a rumor. But, whatever you do... DO NOT click on the picture in the above post to enlarge it. Just kidding man! You've probably already got it installed. :lol: Quote Link to comment
ztommyx510 Posted October 9, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2010 ^^ thanks for the advice. that was exactly what i did but maybe it's just me as i didn't see these carpet fitting to well. <_< are these carpet suppose to be glued on? 3m sprayed? or just left on as it is. carpet has some white/yellowish foam backings... Quote Link to comment
dgi Posted October 11, 2010 Report Share Posted October 11, 2010 are these carpet suppose to be glued on? 3m sprayed? or just left on as it is. Originals just laid in there over top of 6 pieces of jute padding that wasn't glued either. I did have a late 73 that the jute pads were actually glued to the back of the carpet, but no idea if that was factory or a prior owner had done it. Sometimes the fit improves after the carpet lays in there a few days. And it helps to warm up the backing as you press the carpet into place. You can use that wonderful heat gun for that.... BUT be careful.... you just want to warm it up, not scorch it. The rear carpet is held in place by the seat belt clips bolted at the tunnel anyway. (You do remember where they go, right, now that you have them covered by dynamat and carpet.) The transmission hump carpet shouldn't move since it is held by the shifter boot when properly installed. Quote Link to comment
ztommyx510 Posted October 13, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 13, 2010 ^^ thanks again for the tip. i've started on the carpet and it seems to go on pretty well, just a bit loose. i don't remember any clips at all as i have the carpet stripped 4-5 years ago :unsure: i was thinking of either velcro it down or use small screws to help the carpet stay put... either way i'll see what i can do Quote Link to comment
I'm BLUE Posted October 13, 2010 Report Share Posted October 13, 2010 wow Ima watch this thread Quote Link to comment
ztommyx510 Posted December 17, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 17, 2010 been slackin off and been busy, plus it's cold... :unsure: anyhow, a little update: carpets in. ecu and power block distribution in... also shown is shortened oem shifter (hacked): bought radiator from ebay. fits almost perfect. radiator is in front of the fmic. also bought ebay external wg: more to come later. Quote Link to comment
ztommyx510 Posted January 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2011 weather is getting better. should start on the dime soon. update to come.:cool: Quote Link to comment
ztommyx510 Posted February 12, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2011 another bump. weather is crazy. cold one day, snow the next, then warms up. anyone know the best part for shifter boot? center console? i saw someone use audi console and it looks good... any other console that would look good and won't put a hole in my pockets? Quote Link to comment
metalmonkey47 Posted February 12, 2011 Report Share Posted February 12, 2011 How're you likin the fatmat? And where'd you get the carpet? Quote Link to comment
ztommyx510 Posted February 14, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2011 ^^ fat mat is pretty good. i'd say its as good as any other sound detonating material :) i got the carpet kit from stockinteriors.com Quote Link to comment
greengoon Posted May 29, 2011 Report Share Posted May 29, 2011 Looks good, Tommy. It was great meeting you the other day. I need to see the 510 in person. I would be happy to help play with the wiring someday although I am in no way an expert. Quote Link to comment
skunk Posted May 29, 2011 Report Share Posted May 29, 2011 so.... how the datsun doing. no update in months? Quote Link to comment
ztommyx510 Posted June 24, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2011 Looks good, Tommy. It was great meeting you the other day. I need to see the 510 in person. I would be happy to help play with the wiring someday although I am in no way an expert. thanks. it was nice meeting you too. sorry.. don't remember your name :) no updates yet. i'm still debating on the exhaust. turbo is 3" down and midpipes, but i have a 2.5" exhaust/muffler sitting around, so i'm thinking of fabbing a 3" pipe all the way back from turbo and then 2.5" when it gets to the rear as the hole is only 2.5". i may have to slot the 2.5" bigger to a 3" but still unsure how i'm going to do that. Quote Link to comment
ztommyx510 Posted September 28, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 28, 2012 whoa... over a year later... it's due for an update! not much has been going on. got busy. dime on hold for time being. touched it off and on the last year or so... here's where i'm at: still hasn't run yet. waiting to wire up the last 8 wires :geek: Quote Link to comment
ztommyx510 Posted October 4, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 4, 2012 i really need help on the two circled item here. the red and the blue blue: how is that wired? are they all wired together and out to the relay (ecu indicate 4 wires into one?) or what color is the one wire coming out of the ecu? red: where can i locate the 510 fuse panel? i know there is a fuse box located on top right (on pic 1). need help. thanks Quote Link to comment
fo0manchu Posted October 5, 2012 Report Share Posted October 5, 2012 this might be the same, but this is how i did my KA. This diagram makes more sense to me. I don't know why the black white stripe wire from the fuse panel in your diagram goes all the way across to ground through the relay. Maybe it was a mistake. Unless that line is not supposed to go all the way through. Is that black white stripe wire from the fuse panel a "+" when ign is in the "on" position? Anyways, here is a modified diagram. And yes, all the wires in the blue can connect together. Quote Link to comment
tr8er Posted October 5, 2012 Report Share Posted October 5, 2012 Yup. They should all be current limited at 15A. So join them with 15A wire. Quote Link to comment
ztommyx510 Posted October 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2012 thanks for the quick reply guys. i was getting frustrated with all the wirings. nice! so that part of the blue circled will be taken care of. foomanchoo: i got the diagram from page 1 or 2 on this thread. so i was just following the diagram. where can i find the "ignition switch" and "ignition on"? where is it hooked to? wire? sorry i'm just trying to make sense on all the terms. more info please? pics would be nice too. once again, thanks guy for all your knowledge. Quote Link to comment
fo0manchu Posted October 5, 2012 Report Share Posted October 5, 2012 straight from the ignition wires. That is your ignition switch, the thing the key goes into and turns. The wires in the back are part of the ignition switch. Ignition "on" is the wire that has 12v+ when the ignition is turned to the "on" position. This is right before you start the car. If you have a volt tester that would make things easier. Perhaps somebody can chime in about the "black/white stripe" wire coming out of the fusebox. If it has 12v+ with the ignition in the on position, then you can use that as well. But you would only connect it to one side of the relay and not all the way through to ground. Quote Link to comment
ztommyx510 Posted October 8, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2012 wow a lot of info there. which color wire from the ignition switch? i have not look on my column for the wires. i assume there are going to be 2 wires that i'm connecting these two wires to. the fusebox doesn't seem to have a black/white wires, although there is one further down towards where the stock (510) starter used to be. Quote Link to comment
ztommyx510 Posted October 9, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2012 here's what's on the steering column of the wires 1. blk/yel 2. wht/red 3. blk/blu 4. blu/blk 5. blk/wht there are two red/blu wires coming off the ignition side. looks soldered right on the igition block. i assume it's the black/yellow wire, which may be the same one down by the starter. it's still confusing as heck. i gues at this point, i'll just do the trial and error and see if this thing blows up or starts lol. Quote Link to comment
INDY510 Posted October 9, 2012 Report Share Posted October 9, 2012 The blk/yel wire is for the starter motor,, and ONLY the starter motor ..... the Blk/wht wire off you ignition switch goes to the fuse box, then to the stock Datsun coil you want to cut the wire going to the stock Datsun coil (after fuse-box) and run it to the CAN/AM box,, it's the ONLY Datsun wire you need, asside from the starter motor blk/yel wire which was connected to a Datsun starter, now just connects to the SR20 starter, no cutting/crimping needed Quote Link to comment
ztommyx510 Posted October 9, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2012 the Blk/wht wire off you ignition switch goes to the fuse box, then to the stock Datsun coil -i don't have the oem coil anymore. you want to cut the wire going to the stock Datsun coil (after fuse-box) and run it to the CAN/AM box,, it's the ONLY Datsun wire you need, asside from the starter motor blk/yel wire which was connected to a Datsun starter, now just connects to the SR20 starter, no cutting/crimping needed what's the CAN/AM box? 1. so i got the blk/yellow to starter. 2. blk/white to CAN/AM box? Quote Link to comment
Icehouse Posted October 10, 2012 Report Share Posted October 10, 2012 -i don't have the oem coil anymore. what's the CAN/AM box? 1. so i got the blk/yellow to starter. 2. blk/white to CAN/AM box? Yes you don't have the factory coil but if you still have the factory wiring the wire should be in there somewhere. It's just used to trigger the relays and turn on the system. Black with yellow to starter ties into the orange from the ECU, it adds a bit of fuel for a smoother start. This is the can/am box. Me and my buddy Rob build and sell them. Right now I don't have any put together (need to laser engrave part number, my least favorite job. Hopefully tomorrow I will get some done. They aren't requred on a engine swap we just made them because it makes it cleaner and simple. Quote Link to comment
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