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My 5 Yr Project Datsun 510


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damn, i'm still confused on it all...

i think i have too many wires and don't know what to do with them.

 

again, where does these wires go again? the GREEN relay is for the fuel pump...

so i assume the first set of relay (on the diagram) is taken care of?

 

this: thick red wires have an inline 15A fuse, yellow wire have a 30A fuse

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now i have these wires from the 510 harness and do not know where these go

 

this looks like power wires of some sort?

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closeup on all these wires

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and then! there's these wires... these are near the wiper motor

i assume these goes inside the hole into the steering column?

but there is nothing in the steering column to connect to?

 

here's the pic

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close up

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anyone know what these wires are for?

 

any help would be appreciated.

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the only wire you need out of your wirering for the 510 harness part is factory alt and voltage regualtor i belive it is the white with red stripe that went to the volt reg. you run that to the alt. The other 510 part that needs to go to the engine bay should be starter signal wire(black with yellow stripe) and headlight wiring.

 

as far as the wiper motor wires i belive the hook up inside the car on the passanger side under the dash

 

And you should have the coil signal wire already hooked up

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thanks for the response.

 

the wires on the passenger side under the dash has already been hooked.

what i've shown you is what i have left ...

but there's still too many wires blink.gif

 

so i'll just trial and error to find out what would start... sigh.

Ill have to look where my wiper wirering plugs in. You need to strip all the wires out of the 510 engine bay harness that you don't need

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  • 2 weeks later...

UPDATE!

 

took out the seats and cleaned the interior.

will sand down and primer/rust block interior

 

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the driver side floor looks rusted, but its solid with welded panel already intact

 

anyone have suggestion what i should use to put down on the floor besides rust proof primers?

thanks

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Update!

 

I used paint stripper to take off the paint...

was time consuming, whew! 3 days worth!

 

took out as much as i could to bare metal

 

pics

passenger

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driverside

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rear speaker panels

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primer

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vht rust protection paint

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trunk

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primer, then vht wrinkle painted

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30 min and it's already starting to wrinkle.

need about 24 hrs to cure and wrinkle will show more

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ANOTHER UPDATE!

 

finishing up the trunk. wrinkle didn't turn out the way i hoped for.

so.. splattered it. turned out much better.

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40 years of dust. looks like new again!

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driver side rust protected!

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passenger side

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i do not want to put on dynomat, so should i jst carpet it or use pad, then carpet?

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  • 3 weeks later...

thanks for the comments guys!

 

not much of an update, but people like to see pics :D

 

 

this is a mockup of where i want my ECU and power fuse block to be located (under the passenger seat)

though not sure if the fuse dist. block will stay like that...

 

wire harness organized to the side for a clean look.

 

 

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finally got my dynamat (fat mat) in.

took 3 days about 8 hrs total. whew! a lot of work.

 

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if you noticed i also ran speaker/power wires. i'm thinking ahead ;)

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you and I are about on the same thing on our projects. I too am clearing up my wiring on a blk top on my 71 dime. I was wondering what I am supposed to do about the driveshaft. What type of yoke goes on the end of the trans and can we use the 510 shaft at all. What am I to do, please advise. Your ride looks really good man keep up the good work. :unsure:

quote name='ztommyx510' date='21 July 2010 - 09:03 PM' timestamp='1279774995' post='328507']

thanks for the comments guys!

 

not much of an update, but people like to see pics :D

 

 

this is a mockup of where i want my ECU and power fuse block to be located (under the passenger seat)

though not sure if the fuse dist. block will stay like that...

 

wire harness organized to the side for a clean look.

 

 

4fd8244d.jpg

 

finally got my dynamat (fat mat) in.

took 3 days about 8 hrs total. whew! a lot of work.

 

2d60acd8.jpg

 

cebcbc67.jpg

 

2ea5375f.jpg

 

if you noticed i also ran speaker/power wires. i'm thinking ahead ;)

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thanks for the comment...

 

people on this forum stop coming in and respond (or help out), not like they use to anymore...

 

are you referring to the driveshaft?

if so, you can use the stock 510 driveshaft. the only thing you need to do is shortened it.

 

i'd measure it from end to end (from SR tranny to 510)... and then cut off 3/4" more.

 

good luck. let me know how it goes.

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thanks for the comment...

 

people on this forum stop coming in and respond (or help out), not like they use to anymore...

 

are you referring to the driveshaft?

if so, you can use the stock 510 driveshaft. the only thing you need to do is shortened it.

 

i'd measure it from end to end (from SR tranny to 510)... and then cut off 3/4" more.

 

good luck. let me know how it goes.

 

 

 

Ok I did notice that the shaft needed to be shortened I guess what I really need to know is if the slip yoke on the 510 driveshaft can be used on the sr tranny. I had some difficulty sliding it on there. It doesnt seems as though it slides all the way in, is it a super tight fit? Or do I need a yoke off of a sr tranny? Thanks for any advise you can give me.

;)

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  • 1 month later...

Took a week off to work on the datty. Why do you use a low pressure fuel pump in conjunction with the high pressure? Also why do you need a surge tank. What is its purpose?

Also

i'm back!

 

anyhow, fast forward to this year...

this is where i'm at now.

 

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^^ that intake pipe is temporary only. will be replace by a BOV. I needed it there for start up and testing only.

 

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Fuel: warlboro hi flow inline pump and carter low pres. pump. Nissan Z32 Fuel filter and surge tank.

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if you see something not right, please let me know or if you have a better way of doing it. Thanks!

 

More to come.

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