510 L20B EFI conversion - the project is finished!

[HRH]

Well, I made some progress. Found the original throttle switch on the 200sx throttle body and found that the two start pins get engaged at about half throttle assuming the original was mounted correctly. The other pins engage at full throttle. Redid that and it ran a bit better. Also retarded the timing a bit and that seemed to help.

 

Figured out it's running fine in on throttle/WOT, the only time it seems to be really shitty is holding steady down low. Keeps bap bap bap bap bap bap like it's hitting a miniature rev limiter, almost like it's missing, and it won't hold an idle with the current KA screw stop, so might have to fix that. It's not perfect, but yeah, probably something small I'm overlooking. Anyway, I'm done bleeding the neighborhood ears, it's 10 here, figure I'll leave it until tomorrow and back it out into the yard where it doesn't smoke up the garage. I did have a lot of deposits on the valves, maybe the not so richness of this system is cleaning my head? The smoke seems to have gotten a little bit less.

[datzenmike]

The '80 didn't have the O2 but the Cali and all '82 did.

[I'm BLUE]

Nice HRH :cool: ,,, inspirational

[mike]

Ha Ha, you didnt really expect it to all just magically work perfectly first try did you :lol:

 

You need a burnout vid once you get it sorted... Ive got some old shit tires on stock 510 rims you can have, Ill even deliver them :cool: .

[LenRobertson]

Probably nothing wrong with your ballast resistor, but the '81 manual shows a simple test, so you can be sure. After unplugging the harness connector, there are 5 blades showing on the resistor unit. The top center one is from power, the other 4 go to the 4 injectors. Measure from the power to each of the 4 in turn. Resistance should be "...approximately 6 ohms...". The manual doesn't mention a voltage reading at the injector, but says the resistor reduces to approx. 1/4 of source voltage (hence 3V ?). Interestingly, power to the dropping resistor comes directly from the Pos. battery terminal, through a fusible link. So it appears there should be power at one of the injector wires even with the key off. In the ECU test, it says the output to the second injector wire should be battery voltage with the key On. So I would think you would also get battery voltage where the ECU wire plugs to the injector.

 

They also show a fuel pressure test - T a pressure gauge between the filter and fuel rail. With engine running, reading should be approx. 30 psi at idle. "The moment the accelerator pedal is fully depressed..." the reading should be approx. 37 psi. There is also a vacuum test for the line from the intake manifold to the fuel pressure regulator. But if the engine isn't running well, I don't know what that does to vacuum readings.I can post that info if the fuel pressure test is wonky. But my Dell from Hell is giving me fits this morning. I want to post what I've written before I lose it.

 

Len

[HRH]

EDIT: THIS INFORMATION HAS BEEN FIXED AND IS NOW CORRECT!

 

Oh, and before I forget the wiring is as follows:

 

On one connector next to the airflow meter pigtail:

 

Black w/ White wire 12 gauge - 12v

Red 14 gauge - 12v

Green 14 gauge - 12v

 

Connector inside cab 6 inches from ECU harness attachment:

 

Little yellow (or blue) wire - Negative side of coil.

Big yellow wire - 12v wired to COLD side of starter solenoid. Power only when cranking starter.

 

Ground ring near injector pigtails goes to grounds. May need a separate ground strap from engine to frame.

[Sealik]

As Len suggests......confirm 37 lb at rail.

I eventually pulled the rail and injectors to actually see the flow.

 

 

Wasn't the issue.

Don't think the TPS is making it run like......like you said no difference when you move it.

There should be no continuity in the TPS at idle

 

Here's some 'inspiration'... :P ...just after I got mine running. Eventually put on the VG30E TB

 

http://www.youtube.com/my_videos_edit?video_id=424dXoAsMIA

[HRH]

I just talked to my Datsun guru and he mentioned the fuel pressure regulator could be effed, said to take off the vacuum line and see if there's gas in it, it'll flow back into the intake if the diaphragm is shot. Going to give that a shot because that would certainly account for the richness. Will confirm fuel pressure too.

[Skib]

my vote leans twords the FPR atm

[LenRobertson]

I'm tired from bouncing on the tractor today, so the pressure regulator section in the shop manual looks more involved than I feel like explaining. I have to be in Spokane tomorrow (Tues.). If it does you any good, I can copy the page and get it to you, probably drop it at the store if you are working. I can bring the '81 SX pressure regulator I have if you want to try it, but I have no idea if it is any good. Let me know by morning if you can use either one. I'm going to try to hit P&S too if there is anything you want me to look for.

 

Len

[HRH]

No bigge Len, I appreciate it though. I ordered a new FPR from Virginia today, hopefully it will be in by Friday or Sat. Still haven't tested it, I'm done screwing with the car for the weekend though. I'll go at it again next weekend.

[LenRobertson]

No bigge Len, I appreciate it though. I ordered a new FPR from Virginia today, hopefully it will be in by Friday or Sat. Still haven't tested it, I'm done screwing with the car for the weekend though. I'll go at it again next weekend.

 

Yeah, probably quickest and easiest to replace the regulator. Even if it isn't bad now, you will be driving the car for years, and that will be one component you can trust. I hope it solves your problem. I'm getting excited that you almost are ready to be back on the street with your 510.

 

Len

[Sealik]

It's Saturday....the weekend!....updates?.... :D

Was trying to find that AFM tune up link for Mike......for you.....But no go.

Seems to be MIA... :huh:

I was wondering if the engine will run rich until it's warmed up.....? Being that there is no air reg.

Not knowing.....but mine runs like crap till it's warmed up.......can also smell the fuel.

I 'tuned up' the AFM before I installed it.

To compensate for the larger displacement of the Z24 I rotated the clock 3 position (cogs) CCW.

Notice the black felt pen markings on each side of the upper tab.....that is stock config, did that before I rotated it to the left. That nut that's holding the tab......holds the clock/wheel.....which is under 'tension' from the spring.....

soooooo...if you unscrew that nut, hold on to the wheel. Pretty much fucked it it lets loose. :blink: :lol:

 

 

My AFM is now back to stock settings.....still runs like crap and rich when cold. :blink:

That reminds me.....must fix before the snow flies..... :o

Anywho......notice that circuit board....? ;) :) And that U-shaped arm that sweeps over it. Over the years 'the tracks' become worn (wider). To correct this....all you have to do is shift the board a smidge to give the points a new path.....just make sure it doesn't sweep out of that specific area.

Can't remember if there was enough room after I loosened the phillips screws or had to enlargen the holes in the board.

[datzenmike]

I tried U tube this morning but my mad skills were still in bed I guess. Found this just now:

 

 

 

 

 

.

[datzenmike]

[Sealik]

Think I'm gonna pull my MAF............ ;) :D :rofl:

[datzenmike]

Better to yank it.

[Sealik]

Pull....yank.....same results..... :lol:

Anywho.....

Looks like I was at 1 cog CCW......shall rotate it back to stock.

Not sure if 'you' can see ....but the new grooves are quite visible.

Actually....you can see it after viewing this post/pic

 

 

Watched that video.....slightly different MAF.....not sure how to raise the wiper arm to change the path.

Pretty sure it was just moving the board.

[Sealik]

I noticed the MAF in the video was installed with the inspection cover upright.....would be nice.

Instead of yanking the whole assembly to adjust the spring tension and or inspection.

From this....

 

 

To this

 

 

Only needing a gasket about an inch thick.... :D to clear the air cleaner.

On another note......I think I'm going to invest in a air/fuel ratio gauge.

Just need to find a o2 sensor to fit the plug in my EM

[Unclejesse88]

I see no Mafs, only Afms. MAF= Mass Air Flow AFM= Air Flow Meter Two completely different means of measuring intake air.

[Sealik]

I see no Mafs, only Afms. MAF= Mass Air Flow AFM= Air Flow Meter Two completely different means of measuring intake air.

 

 

You are correct.....sooooo.......excuuuuuuuuse me. :P :D

And yes....I am (somewhat) wary of the differences.

Tpyo error................ :lol:

[Sealik]

Actually.....I do need the upgraded 240sx MAF and a Z24i dizzy...etc....to complete my project

[Unclejesse88]

I just added that in because a lot of people use those terms interchangably. I am not aware of any AFMs that can be interchanged with MAFs. Usually, afms use a 0-12v sweep, or sometimes even a 5-0v sweep. Usually mafs are 0-5v. There are devices like the split second maf conversion kit, and I think there used to be a map/speed density conversion kit back in the day. As far as afm tuning, I think adjusting the spring tension on the door or swapping your afm guts into a larger body are about it.

[Sealik]

I just added that in because a lot of people use those terms interchangably. I am not aware of any AFMs that can be interchanged with MAFs. Usually, afms use a 0-12v sweep, or sometimes even a 5-0v sweep. Usually mafs are 0-5v. There are devices like the split second maf conversion kit, and I think there used to be a map/speed density conversion kit back in the day. As far as afm tuning, I think adjusting the spring tension on the door or swapping your afm guts into a larger body are about it.

 

 

You are correct again......The 240 sx MAF and Z24i dizzy....etc....to complete my project ....also needs the 240sx wiring harness, ECU, modified fuel rail......etc.

Thus the etc. covers anything I have 'omitted'. :D

In reality it's not gonna happen real soon...... :lol:

[Sealik]

I just added that in because a lot of people use those terms interchangably. I am not aware of any AFMs that can be interchanged with MAFs. Usually, afms use a 0-12v sweep, or sometimes even a 5-0v sweep. Usually mafs are 0-5v. There are devices like the split second maf conversion kit, and I think there used to be a map/speed density conversion kit back in the day. As far as afm tuning, I think adjusting the spring tension on the door or swapping your afm guts into a larger body are about it.

 

You sound somewhat like a smartie pants...eh?... ;) .... :lol:

 

Good.......I'll have some querys for you in the near future..... :)