Cleopatra Jones Posted October 11, 2017 Report Share Posted October 11, 2017 So I've found a NOS fender but it has no trim on it like mine does. I'm almost afraid to have the trim removed from my original fender to put on the new one for fear it may get mangled. I have no idea how difficult it is to take off. If it's anything like pulling door trim it'll get beat up. Anyone know if the metal trim piece can be refabbed? I would think so but I don't know where I would begin to find someone that could do that and what it would take. Anyone have any ideas? Meanwhile, I'm trying to find a fender that has the same side trim as mine. Quote Link to comment
Seeker > 620 KC Posted October 12, 2017 Report Share Posted October 12, 2017 Dou you or a friend have a service manual or parts manual that shows how it is attached? Quote Link to comment
KELMO Posted October 12, 2017 Report Share Posted October 12, 2017 I suspect that the trim you are talking about is on the side of the fender (seen in the picture below your posts). I think that may be a dealer installed moulding and not factory. In the catalog it shows the moulding going past the fuel filler door, so there would be 3 pieces on the right side quarter, yours only has one. Factory moulding part #'s: Right Fender: 76852-H8801 Left Fender: 76853-H8801 Also, and this is somewhat random, it shows as an option for Hawaii. Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted October 13, 2017 Report Share Posted October 13, 2017 So I've found a NOS fender but it has no trim on it like mine does. I'm almost afraid to have the trim removed from my original fender to put on the new one for fear it may get mangled. The metal bit comes off easily. It's just held on with rivets. The rubber bit will get destroyed in removal. I have seen rolls of it new, though. Might be time to replace all of it anyway. I think that may be a dealer installed moulding and not factory. It is. It was just a way for the dealer to mark up the price of the car. ^_^ Quote Link to comment
Dguy210 Posted October 13, 2017 Report Share Posted October 13, 2017 The metal bit comes off easily. It's just held on with rivets. The rubber bit will get destroyed in removal. I have seen rolls of it new, though. Might be time to replace all of it anyway. It is. It was just a way for the dealer to mark up the price of the car. ^_^ Maybe grind off the rivets from the backside and re-apply with sometype of automotive adhesive? Quote Link to comment
Cleopatra Jones Posted October 13, 2017 Report Share Posted October 13, 2017 I suspect that the trim you are talking about is on the side of the fender (seen in the picture below your posts). I think that may be a dealer installed moulding and not factory. In the catalog it shows the moulding going past the fuel filler door, so there would be 3 pieces on the right side quarter, yours only has one. Factory moulding part #'s: Right Fender: 76852-H8801 Left Fender: 76853-H8801 Also, and this is somewhat random, it shows as an option for Hawaii. Well I've seen different sizes of moulding on the front of the fender over the years. This one seems to be closer to mine but I don't think it's quite the same length. Dou you or a friend have a service manual or parts manual that shows how it is attached? I have a service manual and a parts manual. I haven't looked in there yet. The metal bit comes off easily. It's just held on with rivets. The rubber bit will get destroyed in removal. I have seen rolls of it new, though. Might be time to replace all of it anyway. Yeah I chatted with John, Datrod on here, and he said his Z had the same type of moulding on it. He said Motor Sports in Orange out here still has the rubber and possibly the trim. I had the rubber replaced about 3 or 4 years ago last time I had the car painted so it's still fairly new. It was so dried out it was white. I'm ok with replacing the rubber. I just don't want that moulding to get destroyed. I feel better knowing it's just on with rivets. I'm hoping the new fender shows up tomorrow. Quote Link to comment
Seeker > 620 KC Posted October 13, 2017 Report Share Posted October 13, 2017 Color, If stanleys's molding Matches the stuff on the blue wagon Datsun Freak is 100% correct. It is a universal after-market product installed by the dealer nice the car arrived at the dealer to be sold. The "new car prep" department ( I worked in this Dept at Economic Motors in Riveerside in the early 70's.) would install different types of after market products like mag /jackman type wheels, side molding ( like Stanley's) aftermarket A/C units, side mirrors, custom door mirrors, and decal packages (some decals were factory, others aftermarket. The side molding was a popular purchase as Dats have beer-can-thin door metal and are easily dinged by American doors back then, and by new Asian cars today. Datsun were very affordable cars and Datsun dealers who previous other US model cars wanted to increase the selling prices of Datsuns as much as possible, to get them closer to the prices of US cars they had been prev selling. There was big mark-up prices on accessories, and quick & easy profit. The black plastic trim slides into a grooved track on the chrome base. At any junkyard you can Pick out one end of the black plastic and twist on it while pulling on it and you'll see how it comes out, and re-installs. Spray it with some dry silicone to help loosen it up. Then you'll see the pop-rivets that hold the chrome track onto the fender. Use the smallest drill bit you can to drill out the center of the rivet shaft. It will be way smaller than the mushroomed over head of the rivet. Then you will have to re-drill the new fender to match. I suggest you do so after the new fender is installed sou can get the alignment of the molding on the new fender to match the door. Painters tape or a "chalk line" tool can help, or your husband lying on his back holding it in place while you eye-ball it and mark the holes to be drilled. "Holler" if you've got ?'s "homie." Quote Link to comment
KELMO Posted October 13, 2017 Report Share Posted October 13, 2017 The copper/tan(?) wagon in the first picture has factory mouldings, the rest are aftermarket. 2 Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted October 14, 2017 Report Share Posted October 14, 2017 The copper/tan(?) wagon in the first picture has factory mouldings, the rest are aftermarket. This. But it was more common for wagons to have it. Quote Link to comment
Seeker > 620 KC Posted October 14, 2017 Report Share Posted October 14, 2017 This. But it was more common for wagons to have it. And on later year vehicles like 79 and later. Quote Link to comment
Cleopatra Jones Posted October 14, 2017 Report Share Posted October 14, 2017 Color, If stanleys's molding Matches the stuff on the blue wagon Datsun Freak is 100% correct. It is a universal after-market product installed by the dealer nice the car arrived at the dealer to be sold. The "new car prep" department ( I worked in this Dept at Economic Motors in Riveerside in the early 70's.) would install different types of after market products like mag /jackman type wheels, side molding ( like Stanley's) aftermarket A/C units, side mirrors, custom door mirrors, and decal packages (some decals were factory, others aftermarket. The side molding was a popular purchase as Dats have beer-can-thin door metal and are easily dinged by American doors back then, and by new Asian cars today. Datsun were very affordable cars and Datsun dealers who previous other US model cars wanted to increase the selling prices of Datsuns as much as possible, to get them closer to the prices of US cars they had been prev selling. There was big mark-up prices on accessories, and quick & easy profit. The black plastic trim slides into a grooved track on the chrome base. At any junkyard you can Pick out one end of the black plastic and twist on it while pulling on it and you'll see how it comes out, and re-installs. Spray it with some dry silicone to help loosen it up. Then you'll see the pop-rivets that hold the chrome track onto the fender. Use the smallest drill bit you can to drill out the center of the rivet shaft. It will be way smaller than the mushroomed over head of the rivet. Then you will have to re-drill the new fender to match. I suggest you do so after the new fender is installed sou can get the alignment of the molding on the new fender to match the door. Painters tape or a "chalk line" tool can help, or your husband lying on his back holding it in place while you eye-ball it and mark the holes to be drilled. "Holler" if you've got ?'s "homie." Stanley’s moulding is closer to that brown looking wagon before the white car. Thanks for the info. I feel better about this being an easy process. I will holla atcha if I gots questions. Fender is supposed to show up Monday. I’m giddy with anticipation :) Quote Link to comment
Seeker > 620 KC Posted October 15, 2017 Report Share Posted October 15, 2017 If it's factory molding it might have pins that go thru the fencer and plastic collars that slide on the pins on the inside of the fender, kinda like 620 fender emblems. You might have to scraps off some inner fender mud or undercoating to see if something is on the inside of the fender. Or it could just be mounted with Nissan HD double sided sticky tape like my 200SX emblems. Time will tell. Quote Link to comment
Cleopatra Jones Posted October 17, 2017 Report Share Posted October 17, 2017 It's here!!!! All the way from Missouri! Brand new fender! 2 Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted October 18, 2017 Report Share Posted October 18, 2017 It's the wrong color. Quote Link to comment
Cleopatra Jones Posted October 18, 2017 Report Share Posted October 18, 2017 It's the wrong color. Haha! :geek: It also doesn't have screw holes for the trim that needs to go on it. It will. Quote Link to comment
Seeker > 620 KC Posted October 19, 2017 Report Share Posted October 19, 2017 If you're talking about the side molding, screws won't work. Screw heads are too big/tall to allow the molding to slide into the channel. It will hang up on the first one. You'll need to use Pop rivets. You might be able to drill and tap the channel and use screws from inside the fender. But you'll have to cut down the screws length so the won't protrude into the channel path and push the vinyl trim out of the channel. And I'd use locktite on the screws so they don't vibrate out. But that's a lot of drilling, tapping, and cutting screws. Aluminum pop rivets and a manual pop rivet gun from Home Depot would be cheap, much faster, and wouldn't rust. Quote Link to comment
Cleopatra Jones Posted October 20, 2017 Report Share Posted October 20, 2017 Rivets, screws you know what I meant. And hey, thanks for all the info! I will be passing it along. Quote Link to comment
Seeker > 620 KC Posted October 23, 2017 Report Share Posted October 23, 2017 If I knew what you meant, I could read women's minds. If I could do that I.... Wow would life be easier ;) Quote Link to comment
Cleopatra Jones Posted October 23, 2017 Report Share Posted October 23, 2017 C’mon Hugh, work with me here :) Quote Link to comment
left4deadkillez Posted October 28, 2017 Report Share Posted October 28, 2017 It's here!!!! All the way from Missouri! Brand new fender! Thats awesome i need to look into getting a new driver side fender. it has a crack in it that if i turn too far it makes a terrible sound, and bends the bottom . Quote Link to comment
Cleopatra Jones Posted November 3, 2017 Report Share Posted November 3, 2017 Search and you will find. I want to get me a spare set of fenders as well. I need to continue my search. Quote Link to comment
Seeker > 620 KC Posted November 3, 2017 Report Share Posted November 3, 2017 Search and you will find. I want to get me a spare set of fenders as well. I need to continue my search. That’s why I chose Seeker for my name. Finding parts is kinda like fishing, some days you don’t find any, some days you find the big one, or a rare one. . Talking to people about the parts you need is like throwing out bait to draw in sellers with the parts you need. You’re great at it. I’ve seen you “land fish” from all over the country ;) Nice catch, Quote Link to comment
Cleopatra Jones Posted November 15, 2017 Report Share Posted November 15, 2017 Got a question. My mechanic has gotten everything apart to put in the a/c I pulled but he's wanting to know if the heater hoses that go to the heater core are preformed or what before he starts cutting them. I'm assuming I may need to locate some hoses. Is that possible? Quote Link to comment
Seeker > 620 KC Posted November 16, 2017 Report Share Posted November 16, 2017 Another thought aside from my PM. Did you save the hoses from the junkyard donor? Maybe you took pics before you disassembled? You might have pics and forgot? The heater hoses may have some route changes if you're adding the AC unit inside under the dash? Quote Link to comment
Cleopatra Jones Posted November 16, 2017 Report Share Posted November 16, 2017 Yeah we got everything from the donor. I'm sending him a pic from my parts book to he can point out which hoses. I'll call him in the morning and get more info. I didn't have time to really chat this afternoon so I didn't catch everything. I'll will post more info tomorrow. Quote Link to comment
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