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Seeker > 620 KC

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About Seeker > 620 KC

  • Rank
    Senior Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    San Diego
  • Cars
    1979 620 KC
  • Interests
    Salt water fishing

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  1. Where are you located? Some sellers don’t want to ship something that big and fragile.
  2. If ever you come to Sante Fe Springs stop in was 5 miles from home base .

  3. Did you get rims  ? I may have a couple  for you.

  4. I've got a bunch of 620 parts if anybody is looking. Can bring to the event or located in San Diego. PM me for details, don't clog this thread pls. Cab outer visor, inside visors, AC (evaporator unit, condenser, center console with controls, and all engine brackets & hoses') Bumper, hood, fenders, tailgate, grill (no rings,) after market door mirrors, hood prop, door jam rails, ignition cover, heaters, wiper motor, wiper pivot posts & linkage (with metal clips,) turn signal switches, running lights, ft turn signal light assemblies (no lenses) dash switches, black seat belts, overflow tank, wiper squirter tank & motor, etc.
  5. I’ll be there! Anybody coming have any stock 620 steel wheels? I need one or two. PM me if you do.
  6. I like the blue interior! Pretty scare these days. Everyone has to have black these days. The seat and door panels are beautiful.
  7. You don’t need to access the fan switch to check the voltage dropping coil, they are in different places. The spade connectors on the left side of blower housing are where the voltage dropping coil is that Datzen Mike said to pry up the plastic piece. If you have an under-dash AC unit with the switches mounted on the unit itself (blower unit has it’s own motor.) , unscrew the sheet metal screws that hold the unit in place and see if the evapoator (the same blower unit) will drop down down enough to give you access to the voltage dropping coil, &/or heater motor. Don’t force the AC unit if it doesn’t move easily, you don’t want to bond any hard lines, especially if the unit is still charged and working. If it AC unit is not charged and working you might consider removing until a future date, when your repairs are done. For process of elimination and steps in ease of access: First, I suggest checking your your fuses first to ensure you still have 12 volts going to the switch and fan. 2nd run a separate 12 volt wire to the fan motor to test it in-place and see if it works before removing the AC or taking your dash apart. If it does not work repair/replace. if it does work, move on to tracing wires with a simple test-light and ensure you have 12 volts to switch and on to motor. Then repair the voltage dropping coil. If you have 12volts to motor, and the motor works, and coil is repaired, only then I would go into the dash and replace/rebuild the switch. If you have mobility issues like me you may need to find a wiry friend to help out!
  8. I've pulled a bunch of these, have been lucky not to find a broken one yet. Typically the rivet that holds the wire eyelet breaks leaving the eyelet intact. I go to the hardware store and get a brass screw and nut to hold it together, and doesn't seem to corrode as fast.
  9. Picked over in less than 24 hours. I even took the day off to get to it early for the AC console controls.
  10. There’s a White 78 620 in Santa Fe Springs, CA PaP. It has been pretty picked over, but still has a windshield, bed, diff, rad, 4 speed, drive shaft, TO THE PERSON WHO GOT THERE THE FIRST DAY : and took the motor, front fenders, grillI and console... I took the AC unit, but need the AIr Conditioning Control unit from the center console you took. I have an A/C delete-plate and the mounting brackets for the center console and arm-rest console (you left them in the truck.) I would like to trade them for the small AC Cable control unit in your console. Seeker
  11. Hope you recover in short order Ray.
  12. The radio mounts at a 45 degree angle, it won't fit? Why can't you install the radio in the dash where it belongs, if you have an underdash AC unit?
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