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Seeker > 620 KC

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About Seeker > 620 KC

  • Rank
    Senior Member

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    San Diego
  • Cars
    1979 620 KC
  • Interests
    Salt water fishing

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  1. Seeker > 620 KC

    Heater function questions

    I’ve repaired a bunch of these using a brass machine screw and a nut from hardware store for under $ 1. Just don’t over tighten the nut and breakthe resistor spring lead. If the screw is too long the plastic resistor base won’t fit back in place. Cut off any excess and still it fits nicely.
  2. I agree with Kelmo about being the wrong type of nuts. Should be a lock washer and non-shouldered or non-cap nut like in the pic. My 79 620 has similar carb nut access issues. What helps tremendously before removing the carb... take a mini brass wire brush from Harbor freight .79 cents and knock as much crusty/gunky stuff out of the bolt threads you can. &/or use some Goof Off on a rag to wipe them off and loosen any thread-crap build-up, then hit the studs again with the mini-brass-brush. This helps the nuts spin on/off a lot easier, and you can spin them down with your bare fingers vs. having to turn them a 12th of a turn at a time with a wrench! Once the carb is removed, put a rag in the intake holes to prevent anything falling in, and check the bolt threads for gunk build-up again when you have better view and access. I unsuccessfully tried the balancing act of putting the nuts on the carburetor base before lowering the carb over the studs. I typically bumped the carb and dropped some, if not all nuts and washers all down the into the intake, shrouds, and motor. Sometimes they fell thru to the ground below, often times not. My latest and fastest method is to use a straight dental pick type tool (awl shaft without a handle, really long nail, etc.) to keep from dropping washers and nuts. After putting gasket and carb on manifold, put the sharp end of the dental pick on the top of the bolt head. Slide the washer down the shaft and over the bolt. Next, slide the nut down so it is balancing on the top of the bolt shaft. Don't remove the pick yet! I spin the nut with one fat finger to start it on the bolt thread. This pic method saves dropping your washer and nut a dozen times for each stud, and saves a hell of a lot of cursing, and hunting for dropped nuts in the motor with a magnet. The yarn method is very innovative for not dropping your wrench, but I'm not coordinated enough to keep from getting wrapped up in it while using. And the one in the pic is too short for me to manipulate easily for my old hands. I dipped the handle of my wrench in red plastic-dip to make it easier to handle, easier to see, and less slippery. I was also going to make the suggestion Nicholas did about making the wrench thickness super-thin, but he beat me to it. The custom carb wrench doesn't need to be beefy at all. Grind it down until it's bolt shaft arms are thin, more like a fork design for easier handling and bigger turns. You can also grind off the shoulders of the bolt arms pretty thin too. The bolt opening arms only needs enough shoulder meat on the bolt sides where it grabs the bolt head (or nut) to spin the nut tight enough to compress the lock washer + a little torque. Cut the wrench handle off so it is only 3- 4" long, or just under nearest obstruction distance. A year or two ago I was trying to make a motor run in a truck. Took the carb on/off 3-4 times to diagnose it. The first time removing it before learning these tips, it cost me removing the valve cover + cleaning the valve cover + a new gasket, plus an 1 1/2 hours of my time just to get the carb off, plus a hell of a lot of frustration. The last time I R&R'd the carb it only took me 10 minutes and I didn't remove the valve cover. It was late, cold, and dark, and I'd already had a couple beers. I just finished putting the carb and throttle cable on, connected the fuel line, had all the vac lines blocked off because I hadn't yet put the air cleaner back on. Got my head out from under the hood and stepped away from the fender. Turned to reach in the open window to start it up to test my work...noticed the carb gasket safely leaning on the windshield out of harms way. Doh! I forgot to install the carb gasket! R&R practice makes perfect. LOL
  3. Seeker > 620 KC

    Those stories you hear from previous Datsun people.

    Hey Emanistan My 620 doesn't need as serious repairs as yours, and it's been off the road 5 years due to my old age and financial situation! I hear exactly what you're talking about, wanting to get her on the road sooner than years later. Just be sure to find someone who has some familiarity with Datsun's or is an old school mechanic vs. a tech who simply swaps parts in/out. I've had some really bad work done by a couple local "professionals." One was an alignment shop who installed lower A arm bushings and a front sway bar kit. They drove the lower bushing in from the front vs. the back, and shredded the outer edge of it. And the sway bar kit was the wrong one with over length bolts. They did not compare the old ones to the new ones to ensured they matched, and installed them anyway. The nuts bottomed out on the over-length bolts and luckily they rattled as I drove it home. Otherwise I would have kept driving it and wouldn't have jacked it up to check their work. Lesson learned. I'd like to drive the 620 to the new Powerland Event that is replacing Canby this year (the second weekend in June), but I doubt I will get it completed in time. Hopefully, I can get the dash back in my 200sx and drive it there instead. If so, I'll give you a shout and maybe we can meet up as I drive through your neck of the woods on my way up? Maybe you'll come to Powerland too? Last, Perhaps the guy in your story whose eyes were misting up... was because he was remembering riding in the back of the police car? lol Seeker
  4. Seeker > 620 KC

    1979 620 build in Utah

    Glad to help. Stay cool
  5. Seeker > 620 KC

    1979 620 build in Utah

    https://ratsun.net/topic/74127-620-ac-compressor-mount/
  6. Seeker > 620 KC

    1979 620 build in Utah

    Hopefully someday , dream, hope, wish, someone will reproduce those seals that accept the trim. Are you putting the AC back in?
  7. Seeker > 620 KC

    1979 620 build in Utah

    Is the ft windshield seal plain or accept the stainless trim? I also have a 79 with orig glass, but pitted and light scratches. Don’t want to replace it till I have to.
  8. Seeker > 620 KC

    1979 620 build in Utah

    Did you remove the windshield when you painted?
  9. Seeker > 620 KC

    What have you done to your 1200 lately

    Datsunfreak, that is awesome news. You’re my new hero! I have too many blues to match. what color were they before you sprayed them with dye?
  10. Seeker > 620 KC

    Shifter bushings.....

    The pivot pin, plastic bushings, and e-clips are still available thru Nissan , but you might have to partner with someone because they sell e-clips in packs of 10; and bushings in 5 packs, when the vehicle only requires 1 e-clip, and 2 bushings . Go figure, eh?
  11. Seeker > 620 KC

    What have you done to your 1200 lately

    What year vehicle and model vehicles are those seats out of??? The color would exactly match my blue 79 620 !
  12. Seeker > 620 KC

    Possible warning chime🤷‍♂️

    1986 720 manual pp EL 88 Meters Gauges & Warning Systems pp EL 105 Location of Electrical Units uh, er... my bad Mike, harried posting... 1980 200sx manual pp EL 72. Meters Gauges, & warning systems
  13. Seeker > 620 KC

    Possible warning chime🤷‍♂️

    Now that I look again it says Nissan (not Datsun) Truck 1986 Service Manual by Nissan, not the mid year edition.
  14. Seeker > 620 KC

    Possible warning chime🤷‍♂️

    Failed again. Sorry
  15. Seeker > 620 KC

    Possible warning chime🤷‍♂️

    https://imgur.com/a/nxPrGsS Thought I had the image code... appears not. Sorry.
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