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Seeker > 620 KC

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About Seeker > 620 KC

  • Rank
    Senior Member

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    San Diego
  • Cars
    1979 620 KC
  • Interests
    Salt water fishing

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  1. Charlie, have any pics identifying / differentiating the two? What happens with the Chinese one when it goes bad?
  2. i’m with. Crashtd420... pics would really help tremendously. 1973 had no dealer-installed AC, It is probably an after-market ARA under-dash unit that the dealer MAY have installed with AC vents under the dash. You can still mount your radio in the dash with these. The Datsun brand AC Evaprator unit mounted on the passenger side with a smaller glove box, where you say you want to mount gauges??? The Datsun AC had center vents where the radio mounts in the dash. The radio for these had to mount in a console. There is a shorter earlier model center console made from foam and hard plastic that MIGHT be able to be used with an under dash unit. But, it does not have a space to mount a radio. If you have a true In-dash AC, and a short trans, you can probably use a 720 console that has a radio mount. If you post pics of the console and AC unit it would be much easier to advise you.
  3. I’d wait till you get the truck back and see if the long trans went in, and where the shift hole is.
  4. They made a short and long center console. Sounds like you had a 26 “ long orig 4 speed, and now you’re trying to install the longer console for the longer trans? It won’t fit in a standard cab between a bench seat and a knee- knocker under dash AC. A short console would fit with the orig trans, but not with the longer console. The long console shift hole won’t align with the 73 tunnel hole either and then match the dash either (if the AC were removed)
  5. It was Awesome! Yeah, what all those guys above said! and Ted really made my day. He had some really nice fender emblems I’ve been looking for for two years!
  6. I stopped by a friends to listen to his truck that I diagnosed over the phone as having a vac leak. It has one of these carbs, and ir wouldn’t hold an idle under 1,500-1,700 rpms. Tried plugging off all the vac lines one by one and restarting it each time. When The engine warmed up the carb had a high pitch squeal that doesn’t stop. It looks to have a vac diaphragm plunger on it. Do you know if they rupture or leak they’re prone to cause a leak and a squeal?
  7. Hey Lonewolf, What color is the interior of your parts truck. Have any arm rests (interiors door pulls) or fender emblems that say “Datsun by Nissan”? Seeker
  8. Any 2nd gen 200SX owners still out there? I’ve got a hughe bunch of 1980 SX parts, including a complete Z20E long block from pan to injectors, valve cover, PS, alt, belts, pulleys, ignition, wiring harness, elect components, cross members, head light surrounds and ft corner lights, throttle body, air filter housing, and more. Will be at Eagle Rock Swap Meet this Sun, but not bringing any of it unless you PM me first. There’s just not enough of us left to haul it around 😢
  9. I’ve got a bunch of 80’ 200sx parts and a complete Z20E motor with manifolds and injectors, and all motor peripherals I can bring if anybody needs anything. But i’m Not bringing them unless you pm me first. You Gus are far and few. 😉
  10. Gene, Don't know about this shipping company. Tried to PM you about mirror availability before ER. Got a message saying your mail box is full, or you're not accepting messages. Hugh
  11. I suggest leaving the rubber as long as you can that fits. It will shrink up over the years.
  12. At 6'4" tall I like a high back seat to help protect my head and neck from hitting the rear window if I ever get rear ended ;)
  13. They are all aftermarket sliders, no matter what they look like.
  14. I’ve repaired a bunch of these using a brass machine screw and a nut from hardware store for under $ 1. Just don’t over tighten the nut and breakthe resistor spring lead. If the screw is too long the plastic resistor base won’t fit back in place. Cut off any excess and still it fits nicely.
  15. I agree with Kelmo about being the wrong type of nuts. Should be a lock washer and non-shouldered or non-cap nut like in the pic. My 79 620 has similar carb nut access issues. What helps tremendously before removing the carb... take a mini brass wire brush from Harbor freight .79 cents and knock as much crusty/gunky stuff out of the bolt threads you can. &/or use some Goof Off on a rag to wipe them off and loosen any thread-crap build-up, then hit the studs again with the mini-brass-brush. This helps the nuts spin on/off a lot easier, and you can spin them down with your bare fingers vs. having to turn them a 12th of a turn at a time with a wrench! Once the carb is removed, put a rag in the intake holes to prevent anything falling in, and check the bolt threads for gunk build-up again when you have better view and access. I unsuccessfully tried the balancing act of putting the nuts on the carburetor base before lowering the carb over the studs. I typically bumped the carb and dropped some, if not all nuts and washers all down the into the intake, shrouds, and motor. Sometimes they fell thru to the ground below, often times not. My latest and fastest method is to use a straight dental pick type tool (awl shaft without a handle, really long nail, etc.) to keep from dropping washers and nuts. After putting gasket and carb on manifold, put the sharp end of the dental pick on the top of the bolt head. Slide the washer down the shaft and over the bolt. Next, slide the nut down so it is balancing on the top of the bolt shaft. Don't remove the pick yet! I spin the nut with one fat finger to start it on the bolt thread. This pic method saves dropping your washer and nut a dozen times for each stud, and saves a hell of a lot of cursing, and hunting for dropped nuts in the motor with a magnet. The yarn method is very innovative for not dropping your wrench, but I'm not coordinated enough to keep from getting wrapped up in it while using. And the one in the pic is too short for me to manipulate easily for my old hands. I dipped the handle of my wrench in red plastic-dip to make it easier to handle, easier to see, and less slippery. I was also going to make the suggestion Nicholas did about making the wrench thickness super-thin, but he beat me to it. The custom carb wrench doesn't need to be beefy at all. Grind it down until it's bolt shaft arms are thin, more like a fork design for easier handling and bigger turns. You can also grind off the shoulders of the bolt arms pretty thin too. The bolt opening arms only needs enough shoulder meat on the bolt sides where it grabs the bolt head (or nut) to spin the nut tight enough to compress the lock washer + a little torque. Cut the wrench handle off so it is only 3- 4" long, or just under nearest obstruction distance. A year or two ago I was trying to make a motor run in a truck. Took the carb on/off 3-4 times to diagnose it. The first time removing it before learning these tips, it cost me removing the valve cover + cleaning the valve cover + a new gasket, plus an 1 1/2 hours of my time just to get the carb off, plus a hell of a lot of frustration. The last time I R&R'd the carb it only took me 10 minutes and I didn't remove the valve cover. It was late, cold, and dark, and I'd already had a couple beers. I just finished putting the carb and throttle cable on, connected the fuel line, had all the vac lines blocked off because I hadn't yet put the air cleaner back on. Got my head out from under the hood and stepped away from the fender. Turned to reach in the open window to start it up to test my work...noticed the carb gasket safely leaning on the windshield out of harms way. Doh! I forgot to install the carb gasket! R&R practice makes perfect. LOL
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