banzai510(hainz) Posted December 30, 2010 Report Share Posted December 30, 2010 I love it. Looks awsome did you spin the crank around just to make sure the oil pick bracket you made dont hit the bracket? Quote Link to comment
mike Posted December 31, 2010 Report Share Posted December 31, 2010 Looking good! Thats some funny shit on the Z22 head gasket, people have been building these things for damn near 30 years and you figure that out. Should put these pics into a how to sticky... they answer about every question there is for building/rebuilding an LZ22. Quote Link to comment
MicroMachinery Posted December 31, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 31, 2010 So....you just 'drilled' out 2 holes in the HG? Correct? Yessir. I forget exactly what size drill bit I used, but if you have a good assortment, it's not hard to figure out. I love it. Looks awsome did you spin the crank around just to make sure the oil pick bracket you made dont hit the bracket? Funny you mention that; as I was making it I was aware that the bracket needed to be narrow enough, but forgot to spin it over to make sure before I put the pan on. After I left the shop, it hit me that I didn't check that. Went back the following day and spun it over. No problem. Looking good! Thats some funny shit on the Z22 head gasket, people have been building these things for damn near 30 years and you figure that out. Should put these pics into a how to sticky... they answer about every question there is for building/rebuilding an LZ22. Thank you. After I get this in and running, I'm hoping to go over to TT and get some dyno results. Once that's done, I'll try and condense everything and put it into a clean, step-by-step write up. Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted December 31, 2010 Report Share Posted December 31, 2010 Yessir. I forget exactly what size drill bit I used, but if you have a good assortment, it's not hard to figure out. Funny you mention that; I was sure that the bracket was narrow enough, but forgot to spin it over to make sure before I put the pan on. After I left the shop, it hit me that I didn't check that. Went back the following day and spun it over. No problem. Thank you. After I get this in and running, I'm hoping to go over to TT and get some dyno results. Once that's done, I'll try and condense everything and put it into a clean, step-by-step write up. Ya...already figured it out on an old gasket....used a laminate trimmer.....worked purfect :D Quote Link to comment
benzo Posted December 31, 2010 Report Share Posted December 31, 2010 looking good and would love to see the end resulf of it running and if you are able to get HP #'s Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 31, 2010 Report Share Posted December 31, 2010 I would feel a whole lot better if you made a third one and bolted to the other main cap to triangulate it for added support. The tube is cast and will still flex up and down as you have it. The one below is twice supported to make it rigid. Here it is bolted in. Note how thick the metal supports are. Yours are sheet metal in comparison. Not ridiculing you or your work, it's just that this has to work right first time, every time. You can't afford to have the pick up tube fracture from vibration cracks. Please re-think how serious this is. . . Quote Link to comment
izzo Posted December 31, 2010 Report Share Posted December 31, 2010 Mike, at the same time, the stock pickup tube wasn't that serious was it? Is there really a need for that much support? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 31, 2010 Report Share Posted December 31, 2010 Well, it's not like an alternator mount where you can weld up or get another. If this goes, you risk slowly starving the motor for oil at best and seizing the motor worst case. With luck you remember this and have to pull it apart and fix it right. This is serious and deserves to be 'over thought' and over engineered. If it lasts 2K or 80K a rod knock motor is still a rod knock motor. Nissan thought so.... Quote Link to comment
MicroMachinery Posted December 31, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 31, 2010 You know Mike, I think you're absolutely right. Given a few days to think it over, and looking at those pics of my brackets, I really would feel better if I spent a little more time coming up with an "over engineered" solution. Thank you for your honesty; could have potentially saved me big-time. Quote Link to comment
yello620 Posted January 1, 2011 Report Share Posted January 1, 2011 Throw a little more idea into the mix for you. I didnt like how your bracket used a main bearing cap bolt. Might not hurt anything, but i have never seen a oem manufacturer do it that way. Just raises the question of torque on the bearing cap, i have nothing saying it wont work though. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 1, 2011 Report Share Posted January 1, 2011 Factory uses bolts into the cap, but not the ones you torque down. See picture above.. Quote Link to comment
MicroMachinery Posted January 1, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 1, 2011 Yeah, had thought about the torque being different, but I assumed 48 ft/lbs is 48 ft/lbs, whether there's a shim, washer, sheet metal, oil, or whatever between the bolt head and the bearing cap. However, I've been known to be wrong in the past though; not too shocking if it's happened once again :) I know about the threaded holes in the caps. I just didn't see any easy way of making those work, seeing as how the crank throws are going to cause me to need some very rigid angles. Given the equipment I have to work with, it's going to be difficult to come up with something that will do the trick. I had contemplated taking the Z22 oil pickup(one in D-Mike's picture) and cutting the strainer and flange off and modifying it to work... I think the issue with that, however, is that it's too tall and will come in contact with the 4x4 pickup tube. Time to scratch the head a little more.. Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted January 2, 2011 Report Share Posted January 2, 2011 You gonna run a stock clutch/pp? Can't tell from the pic.... of your new parts. Quote Link to comment
MicroMachinery Posted January 2, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 2, 2011 Yeah, I have a 200mm 6 bolt flywheel to run a roadster clutch, but I decided to go with the stock flywheel/clutch and see how I like it. Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted January 2, 2011 Report Share Posted January 2, 2011 Yeah, I have a 200mm 6 bolt flywheel to run a roadster clutch, but I decided to go with the stock flywheel/clutch and see how I like it. I was just thinking with all that weight from the 4x4....and then adding some extra horsepower....hmmmm. I'll probably go with something a little better than stock....recommend any manufacturers? Quote Link to comment
MicroMachinery Posted January 2, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 2, 2011 Exedy is a decent clutch and are usually inexpensive. I look for Japanese made. Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted January 2, 2011 Report Share Posted January 2, 2011 Exedy is a decent clutch and are usually inexpensive. I look for Japanese made. Ya...I was looking at Exedy on Ebay today. Did notice your clutch had Japan stamped on it.... :) Always like stuff from the 'motherland'.... :D Quote Link to comment
MicroMachinery Posted January 2, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 2, 2011 I checked Napa to see what they had, and that's what I got. Kinda surprising, actually. Quote Link to comment
hang_510 Posted January 2, 2011 Report Share Posted January 2, 2011 Time to scratch the head a little more.. i cant find the oics, but my comp pan pick up is strengthened with a flat piece added on the inside corner. Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted January 3, 2011 Report Share Posted January 3, 2011 I'll get more pics tomorrow, but yes, the cylinders are "siamesed", as I believe it's called. The cylinders are joined, but there is a port that runs diagonally down between them for coolant to flow. In the meantime, here are some pics of the Z22 HG put up against the L-series head. ^^^ Again, the 3 gross looking holes pictured here are in the gasket that I destroyed trying to modify for maximum coolant flow. It looks like overall, however, it has decent coverage without having to modify. Can't help but notice all the meat on the HG between the cylinders. That is a Beck Arnley Z22 HG app...?....Correct? 'Totally' different then the Felfro....One size fits all.. Z22/Z24. The theory is.....the Felpro sits a little farther back from the cylinders....out of the heat. Lasts longer.....whereas the OE is also closer to the cylinder....thus burning through prematurely. Combine that with improper torque on head bolts.....fail Just an 'opinion' of course... :P :) Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted January 3, 2011 Report Share Posted January 3, 2011 I'll snap a pic and show the differences. Quote Link to comment
MicroMachinery Posted January 3, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 3, 2011 Yes, it is the Beck/Arnley Z22 HG. And improper torque? What are you getting at? As I was putting everything together, I was making sure that there wasn't anything protruding into the cylinder. The L20b combustion chamber has a smaller diameter than that of the Z22 bore, and putting the HG over the cylinders, there is a small amount that goes around. I think when I measured, it came out to a a little under a MM all the way around. Like I have said before, being human and all, I do tend to be wrong sometimes. If in this case I am wrong, then I'll find out down the road, and replace the headgasket. I'm not really too worried about it, however. Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted January 3, 2011 Report Share Posted January 3, 2011 Yes, it is the Beck/Arnley Z22 HG. And improper torque? What are you getting at? As I was putting everything together, I was making sure that there wasn't anything protruding into the cylinder. The L20b combustion chamber has a smaller diameter than that of the Z22 bore, and putting the HG over the cylinders, there is a small amount that goes around. I think when I measured, it came out to a a little under a MM all the way around. Like I have said before, being human and all, I do tend to be wrong sometimes. If in this case I am wrong, then I'll find out down the road, and replace the headgasket. I'm not really too worried about it, however. Sorry....I wasn't referring to your torquing abilities..... :) Was talking in general about older engines that blow the HG because they haven't been re-torqued over the years. Combine that with the stock Nissan head gasket....that does sit a little closer to the heat.....which most likely promotes the HG failing between the cylinders. Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted January 3, 2011 Report Share Posted January 3, 2011 Here's the Felpro Who knows for sure...mine could blow out in 5 min..... :lol: Quote Link to comment
MicroMachinery Posted January 3, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 3, 2011 Hey, yeah, you're right. Those are a little thinner in between. Let's have a contest to see whose lasts longer :lol: Quote Link to comment
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