burrito213 Posted May 17, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 17, 2010 If you can't tell the fluid by smell....pull the dipstick....if the fluid that drips off of it looks the same, it's eng oil. Typically, your eng oil will be darker. Just make sure you post up what you find. Lot's of guys will follow this and the troubleshooting help doesn't do any good if the final answers aren't posted i found out that the leak smell is transmission oil (cat piss).... its funny because it is really leaking onto the floor/drip mat....can that gasket/seal really cause that much to go out?..im thinking the slave going bad plays a role too but im not too sure. i still think the transmission is still solid but would-or- is going to fix the leaking before any damage could really happen. Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted May 17, 2010 Report Share Posted May 17, 2010 Hard to tell from the pic, but there should be a round end nut on that bolt. It will be on the other side of the through out arm from what we see in the pic. It will have a ball shape on the side that goes against the arm and the arm will have a cup shape around the hole the bolt goes through. The two ball surfaces mate together and allow for a pivot action as the slave actuates the arm. There's a good chance that it simply vibrated out of adjustment. Pull the arm away from the slave until you feel firm resistance. Look at the nut that's there. If it has a round end on it, spin it towards the arm until it almost touches. You will want to leave it loose enough there the arm will move back and forth about an 1/8". There should also be a second nut between the ball end nut and the slave cyl. If there's not, you will need to put one on there or you will constantly have the adjustment going out. You will want to push the bolt into the slave as far as you can get it as you check for that 1/8". If this doesn't make sense, download the factory manual at olddatsuns.com's tech page. :) As for the oil leak.....how did you fill it? It may be overfilled. Quote Link to comment
kwoo510 Posted May 18, 2010 Report Share Posted May 18, 2010 Hey Marco, after you left my house, I headed to home depot to get this < This thing creates dust storm in my garage. Quote Link to comment
burrito213 Posted May 18, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 18, 2010 Hey Marco, after you left my house, I headed to home depot to get this < This thing creates dust storm in my garage. but it looks awsome.... i am sure you will be cool this summer. Quote Link to comment
apos Posted May 18, 2010 Report Share Posted May 18, 2010 Wow burrito, that is a pretty truck. I would start with the simplest thing and that is the slave cylinder. I had the same problem with mine when I brought her home but it went out in the driveway. I called around for what seemed like weeks and finally found one with Rod of Rod's Datsun Parts. Wasn't cheap but I can drive it now. And like Mike said, there seems to be a nut or two missing from the slave cylinder shaft. But just because I have one of the few un-restored NL320's doesn't make me an expert! I'll have to post some pics of it at JCCS a couple years ago. Quote Link to comment
burrito213 Posted May 18, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 18, 2010 Wow burrito, that is a pretty truck. I would start with the simplest thing and that is the slave cylinder. I had the same problem with mine when I brought her home but it went out in the driveway. I called around for what seemed like weeks and finally found one with Rod of Rod's Datsun Parts. Wasn't cheap but I can drive it now. And like Mike said, there seems to be a nut or two missing from the slave cylinder shaft. But just because I have one of the few un-restored NL320's doesn't make me an expert! I'll have to post some pics of it at JCCS a couple years ago. yeah, i never knew what i was getting into when i bought the truck....at first, seeing the previous owner drive it around i was hooked and said what more than a tune would really be needed on this datto...well, alot... not alot of in terms to getting it driving again but more of in restoration. thats where there is alot of work and seeing the other threads i know there will be alot of fabrication too... im ready though.. i will look into (Rod's Datsun Parts) for that slave... its wierd though, out of all the crud, grime, dirt, and stuff uderneath the datto i am surprised that the cleanest thing (the clutch slave) would be the one going bad.. oh well. Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted May 19, 2010 Report Share Posted May 19, 2010 what happened was that the nut backed off, which let the guts of the slave over extend. Do the adjustment, then fill the m/c reservoir with fluid and crack open the bleeder valve on the slave. You can let it gravity bleed usually. Basically, wait until fluid comes out of the bleeder valve. :) Quote Link to comment
burrito213 Posted May 19, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 19, 2010 mklotz do i just put the boot back on?...will it be okay? however, i really think a nut fell off.. i know the pic does no justice... is there an alternative or bolt size?... couldnt find one at my work shop and thats when the zipties tried to come in because the more i pushed the stem in the less of the clanking noise i heard... Quote Link to comment
burrito213 Posted May 19, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 19, 2010 i will be able to work on the truck thursday and i will post results Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted May 19, 2010 Report Share Posted May 19, 2010 I can't tell from the pics if the cup is still inside the cylinder....if it is, you can probably just put the boot back on. In the top pic, it clearly shows that you have both of the nuts we've been talking about. The top nut(away from the arm) is the lock nut...the one with 6 flats. The lower nut(2 flats) is the ball ended nut. This is basically what you should find inside the slave cylinder. The ball nut and lock nut are different on this pic, yours are setup correctly, just not adjusted right. I didn't find a blown apart pic like this in the 320 manual....I might have missed it...this was quick :) If you're missing parts, replace the hole thing. If it's all there, put it back together. That nut should be closer to an inch from the end of the threads. It's in WAY too far!! I'm not sure how it got like that since it appears the locknut is on correctly. My guess would be that it was adjusted wrong. It was probably extended, and someone adjusted the nut so the throwout bearing would disengage. Of course, it didn't take much for the slave to over extend with the adjustment like that. When you try to bleed it or operate the clutch....if you push the pedal down and then let it up...if the slave does not go back in, the pedal linkage on the m/c may be set wrong. With the pedal all the way up, there should be a bit of play(1/8") between the linkage rod and the cup in the m/c. The piston(cup) in the m/c MUST be allowed to come all the way back when the pedal is released. If not, it's pumping up the slave and not letting the throwout bearing release. When you have the slave linkage adjusted, you should put a return spring on the arm...even if you have to drill a new hole next to the original....which is the half hole on the end....looks like someone ground the end of the arm off. First thing is to find out if you have all the pieces to the slave. Second, put it back together and adjust the linkage....then get a spring on it.(hardware or car parts store should have something) Third, check the linkage at the m/c(master cylinder). ...once that's done, put fluid in and bleed the system. From there, you should be good to go. Quote Link to comment
jefe de jefes Posted May 19, 2010 Report Share Posted May 19, 2010 met up with a fellow datto owner (kwoo510) this weekend and picked up some needed parts for my LN320. cant wait to see when he comes out with his "vg" swap for his L320. engine and transmission: Did you get that engine/tranny in Fresno?? 1 Quote Link to comment
jefe de jefes Posted May 19, 2010 Report Share Posted May 19, 2010 Hey Marco, after you left my house, I headed to home depot to get this < This thing creates dust storm in my garage. Ken, is that you? Quote Link to comment
jefe de jefes Posted May 19, 2010 Report Share Posted May 19, 2010 ya, Javier? yes sir. How you doing buddy? nice to see your still around. You get your truck going? I think you were looking to get a tranny for the vg? Sorry bout the threadjack burrito. Ken's a cool guy. Quote Link to comment
burrito213 Posted May 19, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 19, 2010 yes sir. How you doing buddy? nice to see your still around. You get your truck going? I think you were looking to get a tranny for the vg? Sorry bout the threadjack burrito. Ken's a cool guy. no worries jefe... Yeah, ken sold me some needed parts for my truck and he is cool people with a nice 320 build.... Quote Link to comment
hang_510 Posted May 19, 2010 Report Share Posted May 19, 2010 First thing is to find out if you have all the pieces to the slave. Second, put it back together and adjust the linkage....then get a spring on it.(hardware or car parts store should have something) Third, check the linkage at the m/c(master cylinder). ...once that's done, put fluid in and bleed the system. From there, you should be good to go. if part# 4.17??? is worn out, thats whats causing the leak. maybe the rebuild kit is avail. as long as the bore is clean, its a simple task. the boot keeps it clean, doesnt hold fuid pressure. how different is the slave (not the actuator) from a 510 slave? they look very similiar in dimension. Quote Link to comment
jefe de jefes Posted May 19, 2010 Report Share Posted May 19, 2010 Hang I sent you a pm the other day Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted May 19, 2010 Report Share Posted May 19, 2010 Hey Burrito, I believe that a 520 or a 521 slave will work with minimal modification. Check Rock Auto 1966 NISSAN 520 PICKUP 1.3L 1299cc 79cid L4 [J13] : Clutch : Clutch Slave Cylinder Part # 0721241. Buyer's Guide: BECK/ARNLEY 0721241 Clutch Slave Cylinder NISSAN 1600 (1968 - 1970) NISSAN 2000 (1968 - 1970) NISSAN 520 PICKUP (1966 - 1968) NISSAN 521 PICKUP (1969 - 1972) RA also lists a rebuild kit. Quote Link to comment
hang_510 Posted May 19, 2010 Report Share Posted May 19, 2010 thats what i was talking about... should be able to find a close SC and use your existing actuator rod (and nuts ;) ) I sent you a pm the other day replied. again??? <_< Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted May 19, 2010 Report Share Posted May 19, 2010 The challenge with the 510 slave is that the bleeder valve comes out on the side....right at the torsion bar....but I'll bet the bore is the same and the guts might swap :) Since he has a floor shift trans, there's a good chance the 520/521 slave will bolt right up. On the column shift trans, the slave is an odd duck and the bolts pattern is way different. Making the adapter bracket is on my to-do list :) Quote Link to comment
hang_510 Posted May 20, 2010 Report Share Posted May 20, 2010 the bleeder valve comes out on the side....right at the torsion bar.... not much worse than nipples in the wrong place! good info mike! Quote Link to comment
burrito213 Posted May 20, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 20, 2010 Hard to tell from the pic, but there should be a round end nut on that bolt. It will be on the other side of the through out arm from what we see in the pic. It will have a ball shape on the side that goes against the arm and the arm will have a cup shape around the hole the bolt goes through. The two ball surfaces mate together and allow for a pivot action as the slave actuates the arm. There's a good chance that it simply vibrated out of adjustment. Pull the arm away from the slave until you feel firm resistance. Look at the nut that's there. If it has a round end on it, spin it towards the arm until it almost touches. You will want to leave it loose enough there the arm will move back and forth about an 1/8". There should also be a second nut between the ball end nut and the slave cyl. If there's not, you will need to put one on there or you will constantly have the adjustment going out. You will want to push the bolt into the slave as far as you can get it as you check for that 1/8". If this doesn't make sense, download the factory manual at olddatsuns.com's tech page. As for the oil leak.....how did you fill it? It may be overfilled. i am starting to understand what you are talking about... thanks...i hope i can get this acomplished tonight.. if it works, i am going to check fluids and hope i can drive the datto again. Quote Link to comment
burrito213 Posted May 20, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 20, 2010 is the NL320 really that rare?.... i also dig this V320 i have been seeing online. Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted May 20, 2010 Report Share Posted May 20, 2010 They only made them for 3 years and they only brought in 1100 into the states in that entire 3 years.....yep...they're rare :) Quote Link to comment
apos Posted May 21, 2010 Report Share Posted May 21, 2010 Yeah, especially if they are in one piece and not rusted to death! This is the first week I bought it, I lowered it and replaced the slave cylinder, of course, and it now rides on red 16" steel wheels with polished caps. Other than a recovered seat it is completely stock, miserable on the freeway and now way too low to drive. It is good to look at and dream about driving after the L20 swap in store. Quote Link to comment
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