is there such thing as a budget sr20 swap?

[ichorid]

...ABOUT 1,000 for a turbo kit ...

 

oh I have to hear what that grand entails. Id imagine basically stock SR stuff? with an ebay FMIC and manifold? Stock ECU and no management. Or sUpEr buddy prices on used stuff you're friend just happens to have.

 

My estimate off of what Im ordering right now. ~3500 for all new parts to complete a turbo build. But not on. Maybe Im just spending unwisely and going to "brand name" about it. But I have a hard time even tying to go budget on a build, so my opinions are skewed. Save up your money, and go big on a KA.

 

I hear very mixed things about the build Im hoping to have done this year. It all boils down to personal interest, investment, and follow through.

 

People can go Goldy Locks on you all day, but their porridge may still be too cold for you.

[jesusno2]

You don't have to do much to a ka for a turbo build. If you have a good block and a good set of stock pistons doing a quick .10 .10 crank grind fresh bearing, if the cylinder walls are in good shape I good hone will work great and a set of file fit rings a stock head with a valve job. And you can run 10lbs of boost with a good tune and I think 370cc injectors (I think might be 470 cc injectors) can't quite remeber. 10lbs of boost makes a single cam ka really rip. With the right gearing combo its a down right sr molester! Ha ha and at prolly not much more than just a imported sr engine. 280zx tubo or a ford tbird turbo coupe tubo is a cheap tubo used. I know a guy that great at tuning a stock ecu also think he charges 200 for his ecu tune that's the route I'll be going when the time comes.

[0.C.]

About 2 years ago, We did an SR20 swap on a $3000 budget but on a S12.

Most of ebay sellers are in SoCal, so we saved a bunch of money on shipping.

20% discount at Autozone.

Pocketing stuff from the junkyard.

We ended up with $150 left on the credit card.

[72240z]

I surprised you guys all want to be spoon fed the ka info. You know how well documented that build is? Not even knowing the forums (pretending wag didn't already mention the best one.) and Google yields flat out instructions for specific hp goals, which I didn't even see listed by anyone lol. Come on guys can't just guess prices and parts like magic....

[inline4]

I surprised you guys all want to be spoon fed the ka info. You know how well documented that build is? Not even knowing the forums (pretending wag didn't already mention the best one.) and Google yields flat out instructions for specific hp goals, which I didn't even see listed by anyone lol. Come on guys can't just guess prices and parts like magic....

 

there's plenty of info, but I'm looking at the cost aspects and what to do first to prepare for them. I will personally be doing little to none of the work :o

[City Hunter]

there is a budget build, it's called 4g63, better and cheaper ;) So many transmission options too. There is no gay ass timing chain either.

Edited October 1, 2009 by City Hunter

[nis720]

i have no clue.

 

okay, so lets say I have a block that needs to be rebuilt.

 

whats the parts list and approx cost gonna look like?

 

I got mine done in under $2.5K (if you don't include the bling factor I added to mine) but using quality parts. I'm running the stock block and everything.

 

Building the block for extreme power (over 300hp) will require forged pistons and rods.... but then again so would the SR in that case. For a mild Turbo build you should be Ok with stock.

[WagDatto]

Quoted from KA-T, source:

DOHC Turbo for Dummies

 

These are the Prerequisites to building a DOHC Turbo. Together we will go through typical setups from mild to extreme to reach the power goals you desire. These are lists of typically used items that are easily attainable by the average person. All setups should have the Air to Fuel Ratio verified on a dyno with wideband or at very least on a track using an in-car wideband setup (NO watching the standard O2 signal and calling it good). If your using pump gas and seeing air to fuel ratios more lean than 11.8:1-12:1' date=' some rethinking on the tuning/fuel setup will be needed. A narrowband guage(typical A/F guage from Autometer for instance) is not complex enough to be a real indication of the ratios inside your combustion chamber.

 

 

 

Very Mild Build: around 180 rwhp

 

Turbo Manifold

Blow Off Valve

Turbo (T25)

Downpipe 2.5" is perfectly fine

Pipe to connect turbo to throttle body

 

Fuel Control:

FMU (not recommended, but doable) Raises fuel pressure per boost to make injectors flow more than normal.

SR 370cc Injectors. These can be found at places found at the bottom)

Apexi SAFC2

Greddy Emanage

 

 

Mild power adder, say you want around 200 rwhp.

 

 

Turbo Manifold

Blow Off Valve

Small Intercooler (potentially get away with a side mount)

Turbo T25/T28/14B, etc. Smaller T2 setups. Usually will be internally wastegated.

Downpipe 2.5" is perfectly fine

Replacing the Exhaust is starting to be very necessary at this stage, so I would start to shop for that as well.

 

Fuel Control

SR 370cc Injectors

Apexi SAFC2

Greddy Emanage

Back off base timing at distributor or MSD BTM

 

Average: 300 rwhp to 350 rwhp, you have to start to expect a little more lag. This is about the perfect "street car" limit. No race gas, just good honest street car fun that is fully capable of bring home a 12 second timeslip on a good run.

 

Turbo Manifold

T3/T04E .50 Trim compressor, .60 trim compressor housing / Stg 3 (aka TA31) turbine wheel, .48 to .63 A/R exhaust housing. Internal wastegate optional but not recommended.

Downpipe can still be 2.5", but this is as far as I would want to push that.

Front Mount Intercooler (FMIC) It's time to upgrade to a larger front mount as the larger will push more air than the smaller sidemount can cool.

 

Fuel Control

550cc Injectors

SAFC2 to control your fuel injectors, along with the stock ecu.

MSD BTM At this stage I would be running the BTM to control timing retard.

Reflashed ECU-This can be a DIY thing with Megasquirt Tuning or a JWT.

Z32 Maf is required, as the stock Maf stops being able to read at around 260 rwhp.

Wideband O2 Sensor should be installed for tuning.

 

Block Internals

This is where I would start to consider it necessary to replace you pistons.

 

Above Average: 350 rwhp to 425 rwhp

 

Turbo Manifold

Blow Off Valve

T3/T04E 50 Trim .48/.63 or slightly larger turbo, this is where I would start to make the switch up to an external wastegate. You have the option to reroute it back into the exhaust, or merely "dump" it out into the open. "Dump" is usually a mini exhaust in the form of 1.5" piping routed out to the open.

FMIC Larger is starting to be necessary. Typical for setups from here on, are 12"x24"x3" for the core.

Downpipe 3", at this point I would switch to the larger downpipe. You can probably get away with it at 2.5", but it will be causing a little bit of backpressure. Moving to 3" piping as quickly as possible is what you want though. Usually it is necessary to have the first bend 2.5" to clear the steering shaft though.

Exhaust 3"

 

Block Internals

At this stage you'll want to "build" or fortify your block to better handle boost. Previous to this you can walk the line, but here and forward I find it necessary to do so.

Forged Rods

Forged Pistons

Stock Crank

Plus your typical rebuild items.

 

 

Fuel Control

Standalone fuel management is recommended at this stage in the game and is absolutely necessary at the next. These allow you control not only very large injectors, but the tuner to have complete control over both timing and fuel.

720cc Injectors.

Wideband O2 Sensor is necessary for tuning.

 

Wild Build: 425 rwhp to 600 rwhp. Lag is obviously going to be much more apparent, full boost isn't going to happen until around 4000-5000 rpms or so. Once spooled it will pull very hard.

 

Turbo Manifold

Turbo T3/T61/SC61 or GT35R seem to be the typical turbo's in the area. External Wastegate is your only option that should be considered.

Blow Off Valve You'll want a good performing more expensive blow off valve to alleviate reverted air when the throttle body closes from pushing against the compressor wheel.

FMIC the 24"x12"x3" Core's are still effective in this range.

Downpipe 3" is still capable of handling these power levels

Exhaust 3" or larger

 

Fuel Control

720cc-1600cc Injectors

Standalone Fuel Management

Recommeded to switch to Map instead of Maf for reading airflow.

Wideband 02 Sensor installed and wired into standalone for adjustments and monitoring.

Dyno tuning is very valuable.

 

Block Internals

Along with the previously mentioned internals I would add these to the list

Cams (per your discretion)

Build your head as well

Valve Springs

Valve Retainers

ARP Head/Main Studs

Cometic Headgasket or similar

 

 

Absolute turbo necessities...amongst the aforementioned goodies above.

 

Oil Lines (Picture of good return location)

[img']http://northwestnissans.com/photopost/data/500/3509oilpanbung.jpg[/img]

 

Fuel Pump:

The stock pump is decent but not intended for such use. For Walbro 255's being as cheap as they are, anyone turboing their vehicle should upgrade previous to turboing.

 

Boost gauge

 

Here's lists of aftermarket products that are currently on the market

 

Turbo Build Parts:

 

Turbo Manifold (Exhaust Manifold)

 

 

Ground Zero Motorsports

 

 

Full Race

 

 

Peak Boost (release date TBD)

 

Revhard

 

Turbo240.com

 

 

JGS Precision

 

Realnissan.com

 

Import-AutoPerformance.com

 

 

Nizzx.com

 

 

SSAutochrome (not recommended)

 

 

BOV

 

Tial

Greddy RS

JGS

HKS SSQV

 

Wastegates

 

Tial

 

 

JGS

 

 

Turbonetics

 

Block Internals

 

Pistons: Can be accomplished one of two ways, by purchasing ones that are made for the E with their intended compression ratio. The other is to use DE pistons and subtract a full compression point to equal the difference between the E and DE head. (ie 9:1 DE pistons will be 8:1 in an E)

 

Arias 8.8:1(DE)

Wiseco 9:1(DE)

JE 8.5:1

Ross 8.5:1(DE)

CP 9:1(DE)

Supertech 9:1

 

Rods: Any rod that will fit the bottom end of the DE will work with E as well.

 

Crower

Pauter

Carillo

Eagle (release tbd)

 

Bearings

 

Whatever your preference is for rebuilds. Mine is Clevite.

 

Headgasket

 

Cometic

 

Valves

 

Supertech Dual Valve Springs

SI Valves

Ferrea Valves

 

Retainers

 

Supertech Titanium Retainers

 

Cams

 

PDM Racing

Nissan Motorsports

Colt Cams

Crower

JWT Technology

 

 

Typical Injectors Used on DOHC

 

SR 370cc Injectors

 

SR Upgrade Injectors are available in various sizes between 550cc-720cc as side feed, anything larger usually you'll want to switch to a top feed fuel rail and injector combination.

 

 

Injector Resistors (To alter low impedence to work with a high impedence ecu)

 

JWT Technology

JGS Precision

[WagDatto]

Mild power adder, say you want around 200 rwhp.

 

 

Turbo Manifold

Blow Off Valve

Small Intercooler (potentially get away with a side mount)

Turbo T25/T28/14B, etc. Smaller T2 setups. Usually will be internally wastegated.

Downpipe 2.5" is perfectly fine

Replacing the Exhaust is starting to be very necessary at this stage, so I would start to shop for that as well.

 

Fuel Control

SR 370cc Injectors

Apexi SAFC2

Greddy Emanage

Back off base timing at distributor or MSD BTM

 

This is the one most people are going to go for. Stock SR injectors go for 80-100, a manifold that will fit will cost you appx. $100 from ebay, and are proven to hold up if you reinforce them and some people choose to cut the flanges so they're not one solid piece, so they flex better under heat. Also, with something small like this, you can get away with a AFC rather than a true piggy back. I'm not saying it's the BEST way, but you can definitely do it.

 

Honestly, you could use pretty much everything from THAT setup, but a slightly larger turbo (go for the T28, let's say), and spend 1-200 more on a decent tuned ECU and be up around 250hp instead of 200.

 

To answer your question on what I think of the BC crank? I haven't looked into it, but if you have money to drop on a BC part like THAT, I'd assume going SR, KA or even LS1 wouldn't be a huge issue for you. I'd stay away from it unless you're building a stroker KA or a high HP build.

[Lozer]

just go rb20det and frick it all you got the torque and the power and you can call your ride the sky10.

[NorCalDime]

just go rb20det and frick it all you got the torque and the power and you can call your ride the sky10.

 

My buddy has an RB20 in his 240, it isnt impressive at all and doesnt feel like it has that much torque.

 

+1 to what wagdatto said, but the 100 buck e bay manifolds wont work. All the t2 Series manifolds, t25 t28 are bottom mount, soooooo unless you are going to redo your steering you need to find a t3 turbo so you can take advantage of the ebay top mounts.

 

Plus i think t25/28 are really tiny for a ka anyways. Get a good t3/4 and you will be set

[72240z]

Ya the rb20det makes no sense. Lets choose a physically much larger motor but with almost half a liter less displacement, niccccccccce lol.

[ichorid]

A Garrett or Turbonetics T3/T04e would be nice on a KA, or a H1C Holset. the Holset is easy to find and cheap. And have been reviewed on KA-T.org and Nicoclub. Im going with a HY35 for my KA-T build.

[nis720]

My buddy has an RB20 in his 240, it isnt impressive at all and doesnt feel like it has that much torque.

 

+1 to what wagdatto said, but the 100 buck e bay manifolds wont work. All the t2 Series manifolds, t25 t28 are bottom mount, soooooo unless you are going to redo your steering you need to find a t3 turbo so you can take advantage of the ebay top mounts.

 

Plus i think t25/28 are really tiny for a ka anyways. Get a good t3/4 and you will be set

 

That's what I've been told also... KA is a torque monster compared the the SR and RB.

 

Might as well go T3/T4 if you're already spending the money. I would suggest you start piecing the parts together and that way your budget will be lower, if you shop around and try to get good deals on used parts.

[LeX]

stock Rb25det turbo could be a good bet for a basic T3 setup.. or the T3 off the vg30et.

 

otherwise a garrett t3/t4

[bonvo]

Ya the rb20det makes no sense. Lets choose a physically much larger motor but with almost half a liter less displacement, niccccccccce lol.

 

same goes for sr there alot wider then a ka but there shorter an all aluminum i still feel that if you apply the same technoligy that is on the sr to a ka you would be very happy

 

all the tuners say the replacement for displacment is technoligy now look what happens when you combine that technoligy WITH displacment its a no brainer to me

[City Hunter]

for the price of a rb 1jz it

[Pedro]

Ok i'm not saying there is ever a true budget build (well not one that will run consistently and won't be 100 man hours in labor).

 

But this guy is at the drags in sydney Australia almost every meet. He assembled a sr20de out of parts he had in his garage (so stock pistons etc etc).

 

Put a small t3 he had of a z18et. Methanol injection and a haltech, and he runs consistent low 11 quarter miles in his 1200 2 door sedan drag car (no tubs).

 

[hoov100]

Ok i'm not saying there is ever a true budget build (well not one that will run consistently and won't be 100 man hours in labor).

 

But this guy is at the drags in sydney Australia almost every meet. He assembled a sr20de out of parts he had in his garage (so stock pistons etc etc).

 

Put a small t3 he had of a z18et. Methanol injection and a haltech, and he runs consistent low 11 quarter miles in his 1200 2 door sedan drag car (no tubs).

 

 

lol, I can do the same thing with small block chevy's, I dont even need gaskets or oil!

[BACARDI_DWB]

KA's can handle plenty of hp when you have the right components. just like SR's blow up just like any other motor will when pushed to the limit.

 

You can be boosting for pretty cheap. and you are already in the perfect position. you are looking at the whole entire cost right now like you have to drop a HUGE chunk of change.

 

you don't need to do that, you have a spare block that you can send out to get machined right now and find out if that block is good to go. so you save some money to get the block conditioned and you tell your machinist that the rest of the parts are coming soon. (by the way you are in san diego, come talk to me, i have an awesome machinist local)

 

you will most likely not need a new crank, just make sure everything is balanced. (unless you plan on going over 600hp) you save up and get yourself rods, pistons/rings, and the gasket/bearing kit for about 1200 depending on who you know and what parts you choose.

 

http://www.importperformanceparts.net/

 

look there, with eagle rods you are going to be way under the budget compared to most places.

 

after you get the block work done you can think about cams and such, but i would stay away from that stuff until later, get on the road and change stuff that you don't absolutely need.

 

pick up a turbo manifold (ssautocrap, has a decent reputation and a lifetime warrenty which they completly follow up on)

 

pick up a turbo that suits your needs, HIGHLY suggest spending a little money here, it will last you in the long run. personally i like the holset turbo's for the KA

 

then get fuel and engine management and your are done

 

Do some research at KA-t.org and you will find alot of your answers. or hit me up and i can help you out too since i am local. pm me for my # or email