Sinnful Posted May 4, 2011 Report Share Posted May 4, 2011 that looks pretty sweet Phil, damn maybe I should have bought that instead of the LSD but its all good I will probably enjoy the LSD and CV axles in the Max car more than the RHD stuff. But it does look sick tho Quote Link to comment
philcas1987 Posted May 4, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 4, 2011 oh man, i cant wait to see this car when your done. Can't wait to get it done! More cool stuff in the works Lookin GOOD Phil!!! yeah!!!! Sickness. 2 thumbs up three if you know what I mean And what interior will I use if you take my brown interior? black? that looks pretty sweet Phil, damn maybe I should have bought that instead of the LSD but its all good I will probably enjoy the LSD and CV axles in the Max car more than the RHD stuff. But it does look sick tho You need to drive it! Before you take it apart!! Quote Link to comment
DISLEXICDIME Posted May 4, 2011 Report Share Posted May 4, 2011 And where will I get the black interior from? Quote Link to comment
philcas1987 Posted May 4, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 4, 2011 And where will I get the black interior from? Me Quote Link to comment
DISLEXICDIME Posted May 4, 2011 Report Share Posted May 4, 2011 Where are the pics of it… Quote Link to comment
anth Posted May 5, 2011 Report Share Posted May 5, 2011 Noooo Phil, all that effort making this a 68 and you're gonna run a late model dash? :o This car deserves a '68 SSS dash! Quote Link to comment
sssr20det510 Posted May 5, 2011 Report Share Posted May 5, 2011 Noooo Phil, all that effort making this a 68 and you're gonna run a late model dash? :o This car deserves a '68 SSS dash! Ya phil to bad the asshole you know that has one wont get rid of it LOL Quote Link to comment
philcas1987 Posted May 5, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 5, 2011 Trade for a 68 or 69 SSS dash!!! Then my tranny couldn't be made fun of. Quote Link to comment
philcas1987 Posted May 15, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 15, 2011 Removed the tar material on the underside of the hood and cleaned up the dirt and grease before I took it a step further. Blocked the hood. Had a couple of small dings. Shot it again. Hopefully just one mote time. Quote Link to comment
WAGON JON Posted May 15, 2011 Report Share Posted May 15, 2011 From what you started with till now is an epic journey! Great job! Quote Link to comment
the510keeper Posted May 15, 2011 Report Share Posted May 15, 2011 I shouldn't tell you all this but the color is 2 tone orange and black, did any of you ever see an orange 68. Sweet. Halloween is here. Quote Link to comment
Sinnful Posted May 15, 2011 Report Share Posted May 15, 2011 on some cars I normally don't care for orange, but it depends on how you 2 tone it and with what rims but it might look pretty good Quote Link to comment
Laecaon Posted May 16, 2011 Report Share Posted May 16, 2011 Like this kinda?(I really doubt it...) Quote Link to comment
collision and customs Posted May 16, 2011 Report Share Posted May 16, 2011 havent done much, just been enjoying it:D lift supports poly rear shocks and gr2's yakima roof rack spoiler:D new plug wires I have those same GR2 rear shocks in my 510. They are too soft and when i would slam 2nd gear the rear sub frame and diff smashes the road Quote Link to comment
collision and customs Posted May 16, 2011 Report Share Posted May 16, 2011 You're right !! Problem I'm having is finding a donor car. Can't justify cutting a good car just for rockers. Then time is another. My goal for this car is to make it 100% better than it ever was. This is just one if those things I have to live with. If it lasts me 5 Years then starts looking like it's old self. I'm perfectly content. Just cut off samples and take them to a sheet metal shop. Any high quality sheet metal shop should be able to bend out replacements no prob. I used Schneider Simpson Sheet Metal Inc in Tacoma Washington. They fabed me up replacement outer rockers and lower 1/4s behind wheels. Quote Link to comment
philcas1987 Posted May 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 16, 2011 Wow man youre car sounds like it's slammed. At that stage it was lowered on Nissan springs. It's confusing now but the passenger side is the bad one. I have a donor 4door rocker. Will be cut from the door back. Second piece cut out and new rocker welded in. I don't have cash flow or a driving car. Have to be resourceful with the 20+ cars in the yard Quote Link to comment
philcas1987 Posted May 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 16, 2011 No two tone for me!!!! And to everyone who knew my color choice be ready for a curve ball Quote Link to comment
inline4 Posted May 16, 2011 Report Share Posted May 16, 2011 I still have the rockers attached to floor pans I have sitting at home. trade you for something? Quote Link to comment
collision and customs Posted May 17, 2011 Report Share Posted May 17, 2011 Hate to say it but I wont be done in time. Lame... Got about 4 set backs just this week. First I don't have 68 hood hinges. Who would have known?. Second I don't have a front a 68 front apron. Third found out through the grape vine my rebuild ka is fucked!!! God. Going to have to pull it apart. And last but not least I'm not going to have the car ready by canby. I know it sucks. But even if I did. It would just be a painted shell. This body work business takes time! For example this passenger quarter had consumed over a week of my time. For those of you who've seen my car. This panel was fucked. It wasn't rusted through. So I decided to salvage it. Lots of pulling, hammer/ dolly, heating/shrinking. Getting frustrated. I've managed to get it to first stage primer ready. I imagine im going to spend a long time trying to make it look pretty. Here's some shots enjoy Please keep in mind I'm not a pro. Just someone trying to make a car look decent. If I wanted I show car. I would have started with a better shell. Try to finish your mud work in 180 or finer before you prime. Use a high bite etch primer on all bare metal and a good flex eurathane high build primer over the top of etch and mud. If you prime over 80 or 36 grit in your mud work it will come back and bite you after paint cures and starts to shrink alittle. You will see the scratches Quote Link to comment
philcas1987 Posted June 1, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 1, 2011 Try to finish your mud work in 180 or finer before you prime. Use a high bite etch primer on all bare metal and a good flex eurathane high build primer over the top of etch and mud. If you prime over 80 or 36 grit in your mud work it will come back and bite you after paint cures and starts to shrink alittle. You will see the scratches I've been roughing it out on 80 then using sem metal lock. Then we let panels sit for atleast a week in the sun. Quote Link to comment
philcas1987 Posted June 1, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 1, 2011 Scored some parts from Indy and the keeper. Now I need 16's Troy ermish stuff 68 Jdm yo! Grill emblem Half my quarter is ready for primer Front half I'll be doing a rocker section from door to wheel well And pulling this dent The hood gets primed one more time and I hope it's ready Quote Link to comment
69FJWagon Posted June 2, 2011 Report Share Posted June 2, 2011 Scored some parts from Indy and the keeper. Now I need 16's Hey Phil I have the same kit on my wagon and I have fit 15"x6" +15 Panasports over them without an issue its all based on the inside design of the wheel and where they mount the wheel weights Clayton Quote Link to comment
INDY510 Posted June 2, 2011 Report Share Posted June 2, 2011 Hey Phil I have the same kit on my wagon and I have fit 15"x6" +15 Panasports over them without an issue its all based on the inside design of the wheel and where they mount the wheel weights Clayton Those are the 12.2" rotors on stock 510 hubs with 4 piston Wilwoods .... . . I had the wheel weights in the wrong spot with 16x8 panasports and the weights hit the calipers the 16x7 Panas had a better design for clearance ... .. .. and the rear rotors are 11.5" 300zx floating rotors and 2 piston Wilwoods ... 15's would probably fit Quote Link to comment
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