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My 77 620 K/C 4x4 project.


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I decided to just put it back together and see what happens... At this point in time, I'm pointing my finger at the oil pump... I started it 3 times, for 10-15 seconds. It's not knocking anymore, but the oil light is still staying on. The last time I started it, I unscrewed the oil filter some to see if any oil would come flying out... Not a drop after running for a little over 10 seconds. It's got 10w-30 synthetic in it now, so it shouldn't have any pumping that... I kinda wish I had an oil pressure gauge :(

 

Guess I'll invest in another oil pump next weekend... :mad:

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I decided to just put it back together and see what happens... At this point in time, I'm pointing my finger at the oil pump... I started it 3 times, for 10-15 seconds. It's not knocking anymore, but the oil light is still staying on. The last time I started it, I unscrewed the oil filter some to see if any oil would come flying out... Not a drop after running for a little over 10 seconds. It's got 10w-30 synthetic in it now, so it shouldn't have any pumping that... I kinda wish I had an oil pressure gauge :(

 

Guess I'll invest in another oil pump next weekend... :mad:

 

Jason, get the pump for the Z24i TBI motor '86 and up till '88 or any KA24E RWD not FWD. They have 14% longer rotors and really put out the volume. They bolt to any L motor and look IDENTICAL from the outside.

 

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q251/datzenmike/IMG_0186.jpg[/img]"]IMG_0186.jpg

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Well I put a stock old pump on, fired it up, and the oil light went out... Unscrewed the oil filter and oil came out...

 

The "new" KA pump I had on it, had a weird tight spot when you turned it, so I took it apart. I could hardly get the rotor out. The ouside of the barrel is all scored, and if you look in to the pump body, one side of the bore for the rotor(s) is way scratched up, and the other is smooth, like it was wearing weird, or something was wrong with it...

 

My Dad thinks because it was wearing weird, it wasn't pumping right and starved the engine for oil...

 

I told him that this was a "high volume" pump, and his other theory was that the KA oil pick up tube could be bigger, and if you're trying to use the KA pump, with the L20b pickup tube that the oil pump could cavitate... I've never compared the pick up tube ID/OD's before, so I'm not really sure about that...

 

But, it's running again, no knocking! For some reason my choke is stuck open now, so I'll have to address that before I can start driving it effectively now. Hopefully I can get some scrap metal from work, and re-make that panhard bar bracket, it's pretty scary driving without it! I'm also going to pick up an oil pressure gauge ASAP. We'll see how long this bearing hangs in there... I'm hoping I can make it untill summer time, because this will be my only 4x4 when I sell the "Big Gay Dodge". By then I should have a different motor together.

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I put the Hi- Vol pump on the L20B and no probs. Just lots of pressure and volume. Idle pressure went from 16 to 29 when hot!!!

 

If you have a spare reg pump compare the rotor size by looking down the oil inlet hole beside where the spindle goes in. I got a KA pump from a block with a rod sticking out. It was tight and both rotors were scored like sand had been in it. (metal shavings?)Possibly the by pass spring is broken, or missing, or the by pass valve is stuck open and allowing the oil back into the pan and not building pressure. Glad you got it going!

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Bypass spring is in there, and not broken, and the bypass valve wasn't stuck open... Dont know what it's deal was? Just scored up rotors, and pump body, and a tight spot when you turned it... Maybe someone goofed when it was remanufactured?

 

I'm just going to get an oil pressure gauge, leave this stock pump on there and keep an eye on the gauge... Maybe this summer if everything goes to plan, I'll try another KA pump on the new motor.

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I say dont worry about it.

Just see how much oil its burning . If not alot call it good!!!!!!!!!!!

most times they become oil burners after running out of oil or no oil pressure.

 

 

rockauto has a closeout on L20b timming kits 40$ Beck Arnely brand. This is a good one

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php look under 79 200sx

 

 

as for priming the pump? most time just filling it up with oil is good enough. Using the drill you have to remove the spindal as the worm gear will not let it move. then you have to pull th epump again(messy) youll now if it doesnt work!!!!!!! As for Rascnjasn the pump goin bad is just bad luck!!!!!!!!! was it brand new or rebuilt?? I always buy brand new.

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  • 2 months later...

Well I haven't posted anything about this sweet ride in a while so I thought I'd mention some stuff... Since the bearing incident I've been keeping an eye on the oil, and it doesn't seem to be burning any at all, so that's good.

 

So here's some sad news. On the last 4x4 excursion there was an unfortunate incident involving a a giant rutted out road, a tree, a shovel, and a certain blue 620 k/c... The passenders side fender got mashed in pretty good, but I wasn't too unhappy about it since I had planned on replacing it anyway as it was FULL of bondo. Unfornunately, the extended cab area also took a good hit and mashed it in.

 

I got up early and swapped the new (to me) fender I got on it, and pulled out the cab. I have to say, I think the cab looks as good, if not better than it was before.

 

MVC-026S.jpg

(before priming the cab)

 

It started to rain too hard to continue, so I spray bombed some primer on the cab to delay the rusting process. Hopefully next week it will be nice, and I can do the filler work.

 

I've got my cousin looking into that nice short bed I mentioned a while back. If it's still available I may get it and swap it on, then finish up the other body work and try to paint it in the next couple months if the weather clears up.

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Looks good. Where are the wheelin pics?

 

Thanks, Unispotters are pretty much one of the best tools a person could own... As for the wheelin' pics, I have a couple on my phone, but I let me uncle borrow my digital camera, and the cable for it, so I can't get them off my phone...

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  • 3 weeks later...

Well I took the 620 out 4x4ing today... Wouldn't you know it... It spun another rod bearing. Out in the middle of nowhere the oil light came o; sure wasn't going to leave it there, so I backed out, and started heading back. Checked the oil, it was full. There was no way to tow it where it was at, so I just had to drive it out, got about 3/4 of the way back to civilization and it started screeching. Got it to a close by friends house, and shut it off. Probably gonna go over there tomorrow and pull the pan. I doubt it's the same bearing, but I suppose it's possible. I'm really starting to dread driving this truck...

 

I doubt it's because I was "beating" on it, it never got over 3500 rpms during the excursion, no steep side-hilling, idk...It's gotta have a blocked oil passage or something... Rods need to be resized, crank needs to be turned? I just don't know. Maybe I should have replaced ALL the bearings when I had it apart last time...

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yea shoulda replaced them all for sure.. somethings funnys goin on man.. maybe try with a different long block or something.. i forget the exact specs of your motor and im not sure if it has custum stuff in it .. but if its just a stock l20b.. replace it man.. they're cheap.. there just might be something wrong with that tired old motor.. as cheap and easy as they are to come by it shouldnt be a problem findin one, anyway sorry about your luck bro that really sux.. but dont give up :)

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Motor specs:

 

L20 block +.030

L18 pistons

new bearings (didn't resize rods, or turn crank), new rings.

fresh W53 head

 

It wasn't tired by any means, and they're pretty hard to come by around here. This whole engine probably has less than 6-8k on it. I'm just going to roll some more bearings in it, and drive it home. Keep it out of the woods for a while, and I'll piece together an LZ22 for it I guess... Not really what I wanted to do, but I think it's pretty much come down to that now.

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hey man... this is a shot in the dark.. and i might sound stupid for asking you.. but by chance are you putting the caps that hold the rod to the crank backwards... i've heard many storys of people doing this .. theres supposedly a oil passage and when backwards it gets blocked an the result of this was spun rods an bearings

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oil passage and when backwards it gets blocked an the result of this was spun rods an bearings

__________________

 

 

I seen this but it still ran till I completely ran it out of oil and almost locked up

 

Then I add added 1 quart every other day till i pull that motor.

 

RscnJasn

 

Pull and motor and ck everything out EVERYTHING!!!!!

toobad Jeff just threw a bunch of L motors away

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What kind of short bed are you talking about

 

Larry

 

I've got my cousin looking into that nice short bed I mentioned a while back. If it's still available I may get it and swap it on, then finish up the other body work and try to paint it in the next couple months if the weather clears up.

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What kind of short bed are you talking about

Larry

 

There's a 620 truck in a junkyard, no front clip, just a cab and a bed. My cousin knows the people that own it and he can get me a swingin' deal. I want just the bed for my 620.

 

Odd the oil light came on... must a pounded the bearing out and the oil is pissing out around it.

 

That's exactly what I was thinking.

 

2eDeYe;48015'']Text them to your email account ;)

 

Costs too much money. I'll have my camera and cable back from my uncle next week, so I'll get them up then.

 

So, an update on the truck. Engine's gotta be f-ed this time around... I started it up to drive it onto the trailer, backed up about 20 feet started to pull forward to the trailer, and it locked up. I rolled it down to the trailer to the bottom of the ramps. I was able to rock it in gear to break it loose, put in it low range, and just used the starter to pull it up on the trailer. It turns over slowly now, but won't start... Must be something tight.

 

SOOO... I'm unsure of what I'm going to do at this time... I imagine(hope) I can save the pistons/rings, they're practically new. I'll be able to recycle the head for something else. I'll have to have the crank turned this time, I'm sure...

 

I'm half tempted to just park this truck out in the field and start over with a new one... Since I've been driving it, I've noticed a lot of the stuff needs to be re-engineered. I have been offered a 620 k/c for $50 bucks. I've been told the body is straight, it ran when it was parked, I think it's an automatic, but it's got A/C... I'm half tempted to pick it up, and convert it to 4x4 myself, using toyota axles like Mike did.

 

There is a slight possibility at this time that I might be picking up a super 4 race car (dirt circle track 4 cyl car), with no engine, and if I do get it, I'm convinced the Datsun engine is desecrate everything out there... The majority of the people run the Ford 2300 pinto engines. I was thinking of dumping some flat tops in the Z22 block, and a closed chamber L head, would be a great combo for the circle track. So if I do get this super 4 car, the 620 won't be getting the Z22, and I'm not sure I would put another L20b in it.

 

I dont know guys... I've got so much stuff going on, and going wrong at the moment, I dont think this truck will be running again for a while... I'll pull the pan and see how bad it is, but I dont think I'll be able to pull it off again, and if I do, it'd just be another band-aid fix untill it happens again.

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It'll need a crank and rod, maybe main bearings. Oil pressure/delivery seems to be a common problem.

 

When you take apart, check tops of the rod AND main bearing halves. The top ones should have the hole in it and the hole on the mains, should be slightly off set to the oil filter side of the block.

 

12_14_07001.jpg

The bearing pieces were actually fused together, so it took some doing to get them apart...

 

12_14_07003.jpg

Rad, huh? So much for my super dry film lubrication coated bearings, eh? Here's a shot of the crank:

12_14_07004.jpg

 

 

Herr's the pictures of the last disaster. Did you ever check the bearing clearance with Plasti-gage? Was the rod cap or rod damaged. If the crank was worn or rod damaged and too much clearance this would happen again.

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  • 5 months later...

Well it's about that time to attempt this again. Unfortunately due to having a bunch of projects, I never did start working on a new engine (But I did pick up a Z22 for the future LZ22 engine)...

 

I did not check the bearing clearance with plasti-gage, but I did measure the journal with a micrometer after I cleaned it up with emery cloth. I have an old early 70s Chiltons book that says a new crank rod journal size should be 1.9670-1.9675", and minimum dia: 1.9276-1.9281"... After I cleaned the journal up, it mic'd out at 1.9670", thinking that couldn't be right, I checked and rechecked, and it was the same every time, from every angle I checked it... Figured it couldn't be that bad.

 

So... Seeing that hunting season is starting at the end of the month, and this is my only 4x4 which I will need at least get to camp, I'm going to pull the pan off tomorrow, and assess the damages this time. (Luckily I never put the panhard bar back on :D )... I'm really hoping that I can do some clean up like last time, and I'll roll all new rod bearings in, just to get me through opening weekend...

 

Opinons?

 

This beast must have some pretty stiff springs in the back, because it's got the complete Z22 engine AND a complete Chevy 292 in the bed, and it's not even sagging... wow.

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