datsunaholic Posted September 1, 2007 Report Share Posted September 1, 2007 The entire housing was steel. The ONLY aluminum part was the diff carrier. That was only used late 1969-73 in trucks, the rest of the years were cast iron. The gear ratios in the US were as follows: 520/521 through '69 (All J13): 4.88 521 70-72: (All L16) 4.375 620: vary see below '72-73 MANUAL with HD packageL 4.88 '72-74 Automatic 4.625 '73 Standard Duty 4.375 '74 -78 manual 4.375 '75-79 Automatic 4.375 '79 Manual 4.11 720: '80 2WD 4.11 '80-86 4X4 4.375 '81-86 2WD Manual 3.875 '80-86 2WD Auto 4.111 Closest matching Dana is both Datsun and Dana had 4.88 gear sets. Next best is a 4.11 Datsun and a 4.10 Dana. Quote Link to comment
RacnJsn95 Posted September 2, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 2, 2007 Seeing how my rear end is a ticking time bomb, I might as well try to to talk my cousin out of that rear end in the 520(1)? Well, I just got off the phone with him, and he said I shouldn't waste my time. He said the rear end howed like a big dog, and so did the transmission. But for all I know, that just means they were low on oil! He also said he gave the truck to my Uncle, and he never wants to get rid of anything! Here's a little info on my Uncle's yard... It's better than any junkyard in town. He's got a 67 520(1?) flat bed, and the other 520(1?) I want to try to get the rear end from. Along with the wrecked 67 with the v8 my cousin rolled. Aside from that, he's got all kinds of cool crap, but never wants to give/sell it to me because "He might use it someday"... Quote Link to comment
makya Posted September 9, 2007 Report Share Posted September 9, 2007 4.62 & 4.56 is not enough to kill an axle, If anything the front is going to pull slightly when in 4WD. That is, if you don't drive on pavement. A lot of mud guys will run different ratio's front & rear. you could run a yota axle, but it means cutting & welding new spring perches(they are 1/2" wider). Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 9, 2007 Report Share Posted September 9, 2007 4.62 & 4.56 is not enough to kill an axle, If anything the front is going to pull slightly when in 4WD. That is, if you don't drive on pavement. A lot of mud guys will run different ratio's front & rear. you could run a yota axle, but it means cutting & welding new spring perches(they are 1/2" wider). Like this one? http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q251/datzenmike/IMG_0101.jpg[/img]"] 4.10 'Yoda front and 4.11 '82 Nissan rear. Quote Link to comment
lynchfourtwenty Posted September 9, 2007 Report Share Posted September 9, 2007 i wanna hump your truck mike, do ya mind? LOL Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 9, 2007 Report Share Posted September 9, 2007 Only if we sell the puppies. (I think Ice wants one) Quote Link to comment
RacnJsn95 Posted September 9, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 9, 2007 Well my big Dodge took a shit on me, and the closest thing to get running was the 620. It was still having carb problems, and no ammount of adjusting or changing the float level would fix it. So I got desperate and took the carb off to actually rebuild it. I found all kinds of dirt, and sand and crap in there. I got in a hurry, and forgot to put that little brass spacer thing that holds the float on, and I took off down the road. Ran like a champ... But the float fell off within about 1/2 a mile and flooded the carb, engine died. Had my buddy come pull me home. I saw the brass spacer thing sitting on the work bench still and was like "SHIT!", put it on, and it runs like a champ without flooding. The difference is like night and day. It's like driving a completely different truck. Actually feels like it has some power now! Went down to the DMV, paid the $121 for registration, tags plates, and had the truck inspected. Got Plates, tags, insurance, registration... I can legally drive it now! Finally! Took the canopy off.... NICE! Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 10, 2007 Report Share Posted September 10, 2007 Before you go too far, change the in line filter, if you haven't already. That dirt got in there somehow and will so again. I had a filter come apart and you could rattle it in it's plastic container. It let all the crap that it had stored directly into the carb, I now change the $4 gas filter with every oil change, no excuse not to. Oh yeah, damn that truck looks nice! Quote Link to comment
RacnJsn95 Posted September 10, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 10, 2007 Before you go too far, change the in line filter, if you haven't already. That dirt got in there somehow and will so again. I had a filter come apart and you could rattle it in it's plastic container. It let all the crap that it had stored directly into the carb, I now change the $4 gas filter with every oil change, no excuse not to. Oh yeah, damn that truck looks nice! The filter was the first thing I changed ever before I started messing with the carbs when it was running bad. Now I just need some tunes in the beast. Quote Link to comment
makya Posted September 10, 2007 Report Share Posted September 10, 2007 WOW! that looks so much better without the shell! I was going to attach a pic of mine to show what it would look like with 35's on it, bu tI don't know how to attach pics here:confused: Quote Link to comment
datsunaholic Posted September 10, 2007 Report Share Posted September 10, 2007 OK, now that there's no shell, it needs a rollbar. Really. Quote Link to comment
yello620 Posted September 10, 2007 Report Share Posted September 10, 2007 Damn, that truck looks so much better without the canopy. And i vote NO on the rollbar. What happened to the other wheels? Were they 15x10's? Jason Quote Link to comment
RacnJsn95 Posted September 10, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 10, 2007 Yeah, it deffinitely looks much better without the camper shell on it. I'll probably put it back on at the end of the month for hunting season though. Throw an inflatable matress in there or something. Well, it made its first maiden voyage tonight! I left my house at about 7pm, and went to my cousin's house. It was 40 miles round trip, and didn't have a single problem *knock on wood*. Really seems to have some decent power now, and I like driving it! I stopped at the scales on the way home and was supprised how light the truck is! With me in it, and about 1/2 tank of gas it was only 3150lbs! I was expecting a lot more when Mike was saying his is like 3450! I stepped out of the truck, and the weight dropped to 2900... I need to go on a diet :( Suprising! I sold off the other wheels because a) The tires didn't clear on the truck, and B) They were 16.5" rims... I had originally planned on keeping the wheels, and selling the tires, but finding something I could afford for the 16.5s was too hard, and the selection was very limited. So, I sold them. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 10, 2007 Report Share Posted September 10, 2007 I think the weigh bill is in the glove box, I'll check when I get home. It's in metric (and Imperial) so it's not a conversion mistake unfortunately. When I cut the front suspension off I thought that was a lot of weight removed, but that Toy front end is heavy!! Add the F-150 springs X four, p/s box, trans case, bigger drive shaft and long bed gas tank, it adds up. Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted September 10, 2007 Report Share Posted September 10, 2007 I'll say it again, Damn thats a nice truck... Makya, You have to link to pic's that are already on the web with the code. There's a sticky in general that covers the whole process ;) Quote Link to comment
RacnJsn95 Posted September 13, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 13, 2007 Well, I made it 3 days without problems... On the way back from the Doctor, the bastard just died. Luckily I made it off the freeway, onto a less busy road to pull off. Had spark, float level was right, was getting gas... Was trying to start, but just wasn't actually Starting... Let it sit for a while, and it finally started, but was idling super rough, and wouldn't rev. Shined a flash light down the carb, and gas was dumping into the intake... So I pulled the float window off, figured I'd adjust the float level, and inspect the power valve. All looked good, but then I really started looking around... Looked in the holes that go to the primary, and secondary jets... Somehow the primary jet had un-screwed itself and was flooding the engine... So I pulled the carb off on the side of the road, put the jet back in, tightened down anything else that looked like it needed some help, and put it back on. Ran like a champ again... I think that's the fastest I've ever gotten a Datsun carb off, and back on, ever... Had it off, fixed, and back on in less than 20 minutes, with crappy crappy tools... My motivation? I had to poo real bad... Quote Link to comment
Icehouse Posted September 13, 2007 Report Share Posted September 13, 2007 Wait until the rain and cold comes back, you will cut that time in half :D Quote Link to comment
RacnJsn95 Posted October 16, 2007 Author Report Share Posted October 16, 2007 Well, it's been a while since I updated about this beast. Haven't had any real problems so far, since the jet problem. Haven't had money to really work on it, just been driving it. I've only been able to keep track of the mileage once so far (I keep loosing the notes I write), but that one time I came up with 16.5 mpg, which I'm fairly happy with... I'm sure it will improve when I get smaller tires. Took it "wheeling" this last weekend, and I, as well as everyone else I was with were very impressed with it. For the most part I was able to keep it in 2-low and just crawl around, had to use 4-low a couple times. It pretty much did everything I wanted it to do. Flexes pretty nice :D Today, I stopped off at a friends house, and it was raining. They had a big oak tree down in the field they needed to get to the fire pile, but no 4x4... So we chained the tree to the Datsun, and I pulled it about 25 yards before the tree dug into the ground and wouldn't pull anymore. Backed up, attached the chain to a different spot on the tree, and was able to pull it out, and the rest of the way to the fire about 40 more yards down the field. It was a pretty big tree too, they were all surprised, none of them thought the truck could pull it. They say they have a new respect for Datsuns now, lol! It's pretty cool. I can put it in 2-low, 1st gear, and it will pull itself up some pretty steet stuff just idling... I like it! My plans for it next, are to get some better, smaller tires. The 31x10.50s on it now rub, and I dont want to lift it anymore. That and some shocks... The shocks on it are garbage... Quote Link to comment
lynchfourtwenty Posted October 16, 2007 Report Share Posted October 16, 2007 wow man thats awesome! good ol ratsun showin its stuff!! make some videos!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 16, 2007 Report Share Posted October 16, 2007 I've got 33s and the speedo is out a bit. Maybe yours is set for the stock 600 X 14 tires, with 31s you are actually going further than what it reads. Your mileage may be much better. I would expect about the low 20s for that weight. Quote Link to comment
RacnJsn95 Posted October 26, 2007 Author Report Share Posted October 26, 2007 Well my sweet new wheels and tires came in today from Discount Tire Direct. Everything accounted for, and undamaged. I mounted the tires on the wheels myself at home, and took them to the tire store down the street to be balanced and put on. They charged me $20 bucks. They also told me that I need new front brakes, front wheel bearings, front and rear shocks, and one lug stud... I knew about the shocks, and the stud... The brakes are good to go for quite a few months IMO, at least through the winter... The wheel bearings were news to me! They quoted me $355 to fix everything. While I was there I felt the need to ask them how much they would charge for the same set of tires I got from DTD. They said $85 per tire, installed... That's $360!!! I got these from DTD for $168, and add $20 for balance... SCORE! The truck drives so much better now. No vibrations, no tire rubbing, easier to steer, seems to accel faster too... Nice! http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a159/RacnJsn95/620/10_23_07015.jpg http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a159/RacnJsn95/620/10_23_07018.jpg Quote Link to comment
tnip Posted October 27, 2007 Report Share Posted October 27, 2007 those wheels and tires look perfect man, good choice, and good score takin advantage of that sale. and i never realized how much i love the paint on your rig. that matte blue... it's awesome, really showcases how straight your panels are and how clean the lines are on the 620. plus i love stuff that's not shiny :D Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted October 27, 2007 Report Share Posted October 27, 2007 Looking good :cool: Quote Link to comment
RacnJsn95 Posted October 28, 2007 Author Report Share Posted October 28, 2007 So theres good news and bad news... First the good news. I filled up yesterday, and I got some surprising new gas mileage numbers. 201.2 miles / 8.61 gallons = 23.36 MPG!!! :D NICE! And most of that was still with the big tires. Of course, to be sure it's accurate we'll have to see if its close the next time... But the next time probably won't be any time soon... So on to the bad news... Last night the engine developed a rod knock, followed by the oil light coming on. Sad. My theory has something do to with the oil filter I put on it. I changed the "break in" oil out last weekend, along with the filter... After I did that, when I would start the engine the oil light would stay on for about 8-10 seconds before going out, but with the fist oil and filter it would go out in about 1-2 after being started... I was going to change the filter today, but looks like I'll be doing a lot more than that now. :mad::poop::(:cursing: So on the plus side, I'll be able to put my 5 speed in sooner than I thought... Anyone know where I can get a rebuild kit for it? I don't think it's a Z 5 speed, but how can I ID it so I can get the right rebuild kit? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 28, 2007 Report Share Posted October 28, 2007 Here's early and late Z 5 spds: http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q251/datzenmike/5speedZlatecloseratio.jpg[/img]"] .........[url=""] Too bad. Without torsion bars you should be able to drop the pan down and look at those bearings. If it's just barely knockin' you may get away with replacing the bearings. I'd check the mains too! Both sets can be changed without removing the crank. My old 510 had worn down through the babbitt into the copper and still ran ok. If the crank is missing metal, it's toast. I have two good L20B and two Z20E cranks, identical AFIK. One's your's if you can use it. Quote Link to comment
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