Project: 72 Green Wagon

[benzo]

Nice Wagon. Hope you got it for a good price. seems like you are on the right track so far with some of your mods and maintenance. I can tell you upgrading the suspension or changing bushings will help a lot. even if you go with a L20 it would be a big help.

[72wagun]

Nice Wagon. Hope you got it for a good price. seems like you are on the right track so far with some of your mods and maintenance. I can tell you upgrading the suspension or changing bushings will help a lot. even if you go with a L20 it would be a big help.

 

Thanks. I think I did pretty good on the price. My friend was nice enough to sell it to me for what he paid. I'm sure he could have gotten more. I've been reading all the threads about suspension mods. I want to lower it, and add sway bars, but I'll be doing the 5 speed first. Since I drive it every day, it's kind of a higher priority. I hate reving that little engine that hard all the way to and from work.

 

I checked out your picture album. I like the looks of your wagon. It's similiar to what I'd like to do. I'd like more power, but I think the most I'll probably do is change to an L20. I was thinking I wanted a KA, but I think I'll keep it fairly simple. I also like the looks of the roof racks, but I can't decide. I like it without too.

 

I stole the weber 32/36 off my pickup for now, but I'd like side drafts just for the way they look when you open the hood:) Those side drafts (webers? I'm not to up on side draft carbs) with polished airhorns look awsome.

[Jester]

Are you going to be at the shop around 4:30? Maybe I'll stop by and see how your doing after work tomorrow.

I'm driving my truck again.:D: Their not polished but I'll let you look at mine.:cool:

[72wagun]

Are you going to be at the shop around 4:30? Maybe I'll stop by and see how your doing after work tomorrow.

I'm driving my truck again.:D: Their not polished but I'll let you look at mine.:cool:

 

Sorry Jes. I haven't been on here for a couple of days. You can stop by the shop just about any evening though. I'm usually here. Thats awsome that your truck is running again!! I can't wait to see the finished product.

[72wagun]

Have done just a few little odds and ends on the wagon in the last few days. It kind of looks like it's been stripped or something.

 

First I was going to do the brakes, but when I went to have the old rotors turned, they told me they were too far gone. So, I ordered some new ones. In the mean time I kept finding other little nagging projects to tinker with.

 

I thought I would start by cleaning and repacking the front wheel bearings. I've finally gotten in the habit of checking seals before I pull the old ones since you usually can't just run down to Napa to get the right one if you need to. Sure enough, they were wrong. I should have checked as soon as I got them.

 

 

I've been loosing a little coolant lately, and I found a small crack in the radiator filler neck solder. The radiator looks like it's in pretty go shape other wise, so I took it down to the radiator shop to see what they could do.

 

My drivers door has sagged pretty badly ever since I've had the car. A while back, I read the door hinge repair thread ( http://www.nwde.org/extras/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=3605&PN=1 )

by Mike Klotz, and got some hinge repair kits from Napa. I decided to put those in. Thanks Mike!

 

Sand blasted hinges, and installed hinge kits. Shot with some Zero Rust.

 

Cleaned up door jamb areas, and shot some zero rust there

 

 

Don't know if anyone here uses this stuff, but my dad has me brain washed that it's the best rattle can product for rust. He used it for years on farm machinery. Of course it's not as tough as something like POR15, but for quick and dirty, I've had great results.

 

That's about it until I get my rotors, and radiator.

[Pacific coast Datsun]

Nice progress. I had Kragen sell me the wrong size inner wheel bearing awhile back. Can you post the part # of the seal when you get it?

[72wagun]

Nice progress. I had Kragen sell me the wrong size inner wheel bearing awhile back. Can you post the part # of the seal when you get it?

 

I'll do that. If it doesn't already exist, it would be nice to have a chart somewhere of seal numbers. it could include all the common seals (front inner, rear inner, rear outer, etc.) for common datsun models. It would be nice to include cross references for common brands. A sticky maybe?

 

It seems like this is a faily common problem. When I was changing seals on my 521, I think I got the wrong ones twice, and the guy at the parts store swore up and down it was the right one. We ended up finding the right one by dimensions. There's a thread right now about getting the wrong seals for a 521 too.

[72wagun]

Well, I talked to Napa about the wheel seal that didn't fit. First I measured OD and ID of the seal I got from them, and had them check the specs for the part number on the box it came in. It looks like it's the right seal for that part number. Then I had them double check the part number for my application. They came back with the same part number as before (the one I have).

 

Finally, I squinted really hard, and read the number on the seal that is in my hub (40232-21000). They said that was a nissan part number. They gave me the dimensions for that one, and they matched the one in my hub (2.173" OD, 1.693" ID). They don't have any close by, so I'm on my own again.

 

Found them at www.nissanparts.cc

[Jester]

I've been using Car Quest for my stuff. They seem to do a pretty good job of getting what they don't carry quickly. Ask for Hoyte. He and I have great luck with finding stuff.

 

See you at Canby. Actually, stop by on your way to the shop tomorrow......today.

[72wagun]

Heres a quick update:

 

I finally got the right front wheel seal:

 

I also got everything back together in time to get the wagon up to Canby. It was a last minute push that went late into friday night.

 

I finished up the front and rear brakes. Heres a pic of the front going back together:

 

I put more details of the brake job in a seperate thread:

http://forum.ratsun.net/showthread.php?t=12474

 

I also decided at the last minute to put some paint on my old stock steel wheels:

 

Before:

 

After a little wire brush and Scotchbrite treatment:

 

After some Zero Rust. They look a little better anyway:

 

 

I also got the radiator back from the radiator shop, and a few other things, but didn't get pictures yet.

[mklotz70]

Sweet. :)

Know anyone with a headrest? :)

[72wagun]

Sweet. :)

Know anyone with a headrest? :)

 

Uhmm..... I think I've got one lined up:D if I can pick it up before someone else gets it.

[mklotz70]

no one else is coming to get it :)

[72wagun]

I pulled the L20b and 5 speed combo out of the donor 620 this weekend. I'm not sure how much I will do on the motor before putting it in the wagon. Any suggestions? Definitely leaks some oil. Looks like the front main seal is shot. I'll pull the head when I have a chance.

 

 

[mklotz70]

I'd get get a gasket kit and run a compression test. If the compression is good....leave the head in place. You can do the timing cover, front main seal, oil pan and get rid of most of your leaks. I'd check on the rear as well.....nows the time to get that. You can get everything else (head) with the eng in the rig.

[72wagun]

I'd get get a gasket kit and run a compression test. If the compression is good....leave the head in place. You can do the timing cover, front main seal, oil pan and get rid of most of your leaks. I'd check on the rear as well.....nows the time to get that. You can get everything else (head) with the eng in the rig.

 

That sounds like a good idea. I was thinking of tearing it down completely, and going through everything, but if the compression is decent maybe I should just do what your saying and drive it for now. Then I could pull it all apart down the road when I have more time and money saved up.

 

It would have been a lot easier if I would have checked the compression before I pulled the engine, but I got all excited to get it out of there :rolleyes:, and I don't have one of those engine stand adapters yet that let's you mount the starter and flywheel. I might have to make one.

 

Right now I'm searching for information on modifying the trans crossmember for the 5 speed from the 620. I think I'll end up changing the stock one like this:

 

 

I've searched here and on other datsun sites, but this is the best picture I have found of a modified crossmember. Anyone else have any examples? Also, it looks like the crossmember could be moved back in the tunnel by drilling new mounting holes. Is this what people have been doing? Sorry for such basic questions. I'm having a hard time finding this stuff by searching. I keep coming up with threads about KA/SR swaps.

 

Thanks

[banzai510(hainz)]

I woud have pressure washed the motor then run it for awhile to see where the leaks are.

 

If you got time I would do the head gasket. but its not a must.Then again its a L20 and those crack inbtween the water passages.

[72wagun]

I woud have pressure washed the motor then run it for awhile to see where the leaks are.

 

Hmm... wish I would have done that. Guess I have to remember for next time.

 

I may just pull the head. Jester mentioned the cracking issue too. If I find cracks, what can I do about it?

 

Of course if I had the head off I could check out the condition of my cylinder walls, valves, etc. I guess I would have more information to decide whether I should just run it, or tear it down.

[banzai510(hainz)]

If I find cracks, what can I do about it?

 

Well then youll say I should have kept it together. Thats what I would say.

 

its a judgment call on your part. I wont blame you if you didnt do it either.

Was running fine.

[72wagun]

Well then youll say I should have kept it together. Thats what I would say.

 

That one made me laugh!

 

its a judgment call on your part. I wont blame you if you didnt do it either.

Was running fine.

 

I did some searching on this topic, and it sounds like some people run them even if they find the cracks. Someone mentioned changing to ARP studs with thread sealer.

 

This kind of makes sense to me because once the stud is installed, you wouldn't have to disturb the threads again if you pull the head in the future. If the threads are sealed, coolant won't get in and rust them. But, I wonder if the crack could cause an issue with the head gasket sealing. What do you think?

 

I just want to know what my options are if I take the head off and find a crack.

[banzai510(hainz)]

This is me.

Since Im un good with frank and jeff and they have a high part influx at their house with motor swaps .for me it would be cheaper to get another L20 block than buying new ARP studs.

 

 

persoanlly if your going that far then get a cam also$$$$$$$$

[72wagun]

I guess I'm getting a little ahead of myself. I'm going to get a compression reading, and then decide what to do. Since I wasn't smart enough to take a reading before I pulled it out :rolleyes:, I'm going to get an engine stand adapter from Mike K. so I can check it.

[DatDoug]

You can do the compression check without a stand. Just hook the tranny back up and the starter. Get a couple of buddys to help out. Use some wood blocks to stabalize the motor on the floor. Hook up battery and turn it over while pressure testing. Hopefull y its good. Then take the tranny off change the rear seal put it back on the stand and plug the intake and exhaust holes spray iot down with degreaser and then pressure wash. May need to scrub with toothe brush or small wire bush. after clean then you can do the timing cover, oil pan and front seal. get it all together an paint.

 

We call that a Olalla rebuild:D:blink::fu:

[mklotz70]

putting the trans back on is a great idea!!! Use some tie downs and set it on a pallet.....I'd take the fan off the water pump :) You could actually fire it up like that. Pull all the spark plugs when doing the compression test so the starter doesn't have to fight the compression of the other cylinders. Also....wire the carb wide open so it will get the air it needs.

[72wagun]

You can do the compression check without a stand. Just hook the tranny back up and the starter. Get a couple of buddys to help out. Use some wood blocks to stabalize the motor on the floor. Hook up battery and turn it over while pressure testing. Hopefull y its good. Then take the tranny off change the rear seal put it back on the stand and plug the intake and exhaust holes spray iot down with degreaser and then pressure wash. May need to scrub with toothe brush or small wire bush. after clean then you can do the timing cover, oil pan and front seal. get it all together an paint.

 

We call that a Olalla rebuild:D:blink::fu:

 

DatDoug,

 

That's a good idea. I think I'll try it. I'm thinking I wouldn't even need to put the clutch/pressure plate back on just to spin the motor over?

 

btw, An Olalla rebuild sounds a lot like a Krylon rebuild:D