Project: 72 Green Wagon

[hang_510]

...some people run them even if they find the cracks.

Someone mentioned changing to ARP studs with thread sealer.

 

This kind of makes sense to me because once the stud is installed, you wouldn't have to disturb the threads again if you pull the head in the future. If the threads are sealed, coolant won't get in and rust them. But, I wonder if the crack could cause an issue with the head gasket sealing. What do you think?

 

I just want to know what my options are if I take the head off and find a crack.

option 1) VG

option 2) KA

option 3) SR

 

option 4) reality - not likely to be an issue, unless it caused a HG failure.

 

 

if you pull the head and find a crack, dont look to close or ponder... you could end up w/multiple bad block$ :cursing:

 

 

im using ARP studs and sealant on mine (Z22 block).

 

ive rebuilt 2 cracked L20b reusing the stock bolts, neither have had issues, including the one that blew a rad hose.

[72wagun]

option 1) VG

option 2) KA

option 3) SR

 

option 4) reality - not likely to be an issue, unless it caused a HG failure.

 

 

if you pull the head and find a crack, dont look to close or ponder... you could end up w/multiple bad block$ :cursing:

 

 

im using ARP studs and sealant on mine (Z22 block).

 

ive rebuilt 2 cracked L20b reusing the stock bolts, neither have had issues, including the one that blew a rad hose.

 

hang510,

 

Thanks for the info. I considered engine choices for quite a while before deciding on the L20. I did a bunch of reading on different sites. I almost went with the KA, but it seems like it's easy to underestimate how much time and money some of these swaps take. In the end this was more realistic for me. Maybe next time.

 

Good to know you've had success with cracked L20 blocks. I don't really plan on performance upgrades for this engine. So it shouldn't get worked too hard. My only performance upgrade (for the car) will be going from 1.6L to 2.0L, and 4spd to 5spd. I just want a reliable L20 for a DD.

[CARSnTRAINS]

Yeah, but lowering it and getting some new wheels would be more fun!:lol: Oh well, I guess driving it everyday kind of changes your priorities.

 

Hello,

This is my first post on this site. I've been driving my stone-stock wagon (CHITBOX) for 25 years. I can't find it now, but somewhere you were talking about upgrading to Z-Struts & brakes, how did that go? I was thinking of making the upgrade for the better brakes & easier to find shocks & replacement parts. What year ZX is the correct donor for the most straight forward swap? Is there a way that does not require camber plates? Can you simply bolt on the Z struts, & use them with the stock master-cylinder & rear brakes?

thanks.........

[blueridgespeed]

Very nice work on the wagon! I've looked closely at your thread, and your brake work, engine pulling, door hinge rehab, and steel wheel clean and repaint skill indicate that you are ALL SET with the skills of ELBOW GREASING one of our beloved Datsuns! The "zero rust" work is perfect for this application.

 

The compression test on the L20b is indeed your next step. If you're above 150psi in all 4 (preferably each within 5-10%, and definitely with no two adjacent cyl's low) then run it. Clean it since it's out - you have definitely done things right so far. You mentioning that you have researched pics of the crossmember mods made me chuckle- it's really not rocket science - Methinks if you have a certain tranny that you want to run, put it in there, jack/shim/block it up to where it needs to be, and you will SEE what mods need to happen to the tranny crossmember. -If you can weld. If not - someone close can....

 

Nice wagon build - keep it up. Just run the pertronix for now and call it done. Sidedrafts would be nice, SU's in good condition would be great... or Mikuni/Solex?Dellortos...., but a good Weber downdraft is OK for a DD. But SU's are even better. Kinda rare for 510's...

 

Take comfort from the fact that you have DISPLAYED good work so far - you know what to do - you can do it - you've already done it.

[72wagun]

Very nice work on the wagon! I've looked closely at your thread, and your brake work, engine pulling, door hinge rehab, and steel wheel clean and repaint skill indicate that you are ALL SET with the skills of ELBOW GREASING one of our beloved Datsuns! The "zero rust" work is perfect for this application.

 

The compression test on the L20b is indeed your next step. If you're above 150psi in all 4 (preferably each within 5-10%, and definitely with no two adjacent cyl's low) then run it. Clean it since it's out - you have definitely done things right so far. You mentioning that you have researched pics of the crossmember mods made me chuckle- it's really not rocket science - Methinks if you have a certain tranny that you want to run, put it in there, jack/shim/block it up to where it needs to be, and you will SEE what mods need to happen to the tranny crossmember. -If you can weld. If not - someone close can....

 

Nice wagon build - keep it up. Just run the pertronix for now and call it done. Sidedrafts would be nice, SU's in good condition would be great... or Mikuni/Solex?Dellortos...., but a good Weber downdraft is OK for a DD. But SU's are even better. Kinda rare for 510's...

 

Take comfort from the fact that you have DISPLAYED good work so far - you know what to do - you can do it - you've already done it.

 

 

Thanks for the comments. Unfortunately work has been pretty crazy, and work on my Datsuns has stopped. I hope to get back at it in another month or two. I've also got a set of zx struts to put on the front.

[Jester]

I'll keep poking him till he gets back at it. I just picked up a wagon too so maybe this will help with the motivation.

Nice write up on the hinge work Luke. Thanks