dat521gatherer

yes show the stock and hide the good stuff. i too hate seeing vintage vehicles with modern stereo's in the dash. it just doesn't look right. same with steering wheels. i saw a am 521 hitachi go for around $100 bones earlier this year on ebay. i painted my face plate like a jackass. but it came out nice.:D

i thought the match box had 2 prongs? one to each side of the coil?

yep i had performance radiator recored mine for $100+ and i got to keep the top and bottom so it loks stock. i polished it and had the brass shiney for a while but didn't protect it so it tarnished.

my thoughts are with hainz. why risk it. tapping or heli-coil would not be fun while still in the car.

does the 521 j13 have the same issue? or can u bolt a l series up to a 521 j13 engine compartment?

http://www.the620.com/620tech.htm look at the L series specs and mods for more L series options.

i just put my filler hose on a couple hours ago after swapping a bed. mine was harder than a rock too. all i did was stick it next to the fire place, rotating it and stepping on it to get it to move again. i put some lithium grease on the inside lip and it popped right on.went to the gas station and filled her up with no leaks. i left the top pipe on so i only had to remove the three screws and leave the hose connected to the top. a straight hose will do cause the angle is so minor. wear gloves those damn bed edges are sharp when trying to wiggle that baby into place. making the old hose pliable again if only for a few minutes insures a nice tight fit when you tighten that hose clamp back down. let us know if you go with the napa hose or any other. good luck!!

what does the squeeze knob look like? i never seen one.

hmm my 70 521 had round reflectors instead of side marker lights. i wonder if this change was made mid year or something. what price range are you looking at? the greater seattle area craigslist always has some for sale. not too far of a trip for you for a nice 521. the only half decent one at the moment. http://seattle.craigslist.org/sno/car/446200727.html

i assume you mean the L20b? 4 cylinder. i'm sure the L20 is a 6 cylinder although i never hear about anyone having one or talking about them. must have been an early z thing or something.

the 521 front wheel cylinders only have 50 places to leak from between the hose and cylinder.

ever notice how the design of the original tailgate chains on 521's let them jump right off the truck and then down between the tailgate and bed only to hit the road and never be seen again. only works without the slip covers. it's harder to find them with the covers if you can find them at all.

521's most be the only model on the planet without door jamb light switches! yeah i know they were an option, but i've never seen a 521 with them. ever tried to turn your dome light off after the doors are locked. i installed some 620 dome switches on my 521 and it was the best upgrade i ever did.

i am also too lazy to get a host. the day craigslist and ebay require a host i'm shutting off my computer and going back to the stone age.

i've always pulled the engine and tranny at the same time on my 521. if or when i pull my l20b out of my 620 i'll pull them both at the same time also. the thought of mating them back up under the truck makes me cringe.

if your cables are really corroded at the ends and you have some slack chop an inch and see if you can get some fresh copper to the terminals.

i've noticed that battery cable corrision is usually the problem. i saw a ford 94 f150 that was corroded more than half way down the cable, under the insulation. it's a dirty cable or bad starter. if you can turn your terminals after there all the way tightened then replace them. if not clean the piss out of them and the wires and battery. they sell a special corrision remover in a spray can. buy the spray and a post cleaner.

nobody ever talks about how you can adjust the volt reg to make your lights brighter. besides reading the book i've never even heard of anyone attempting to adjust one or knowing how. it's clearly in the factory book though. there's two sets of points in those things. unless you have the transister type which never work well for me. i've came across many original points style volt regs and they work fine after many decades.

funny that it doesnt show a pic of the brightness of the bulb before and after. i thought there was a easy mod to bypass the switch or something. something about the wiring harness sucking up a couple of watts of power and the same mod to reduce the heat in the light switch circuit. i think there may an old nwde post on this. searching can be a pina to find what you want. sometimes it's just easier to re-ask the question.:D

yeah i forgot about that most recent $200 tach. i think i would use the clock more considering i don't carry a watch. it's easier for me to tune my ear to the rpm's rather than tune my eye's t the sun. is the clock really more rare than the tach?

i love that horn ring! it looks bent though? pm me if you want to get rid of it or have a spare from you other truck. at this point i'd take a broken one. nice progress.

i buy my webers used on ebay for around $100. and i have't had to rebuild them. they're the easiest of carbs to rebuild if you need to. i've heard hitachi's are among the most complicated to rebuild having 3 bodies and all. i had a strange fuel problem many moons ago. my truck would run then die after a few seconds. i could jump in it and move it about 50 feet then it would run out of gas. i would have to wait a few minutes then it would work again. it came down to the fact that i wanted to use those old school hose wire clamps. they were sucking air so i switched to the modern flat style of hose clamps and my problem went away. (i still want to use the old school clamps, i have a pile of them) pull off the fuel line from the tank to the pump and blow in it until you hear the fuel tank bubbling. if you cant hear air bubbling you may want to stick a air compressor to the line and blow any debres all back to the tank until you hear bubbles. if your truck runs after that you may have a rust problem.

ah i see it on autozone online but cant find at schucks online. you may want to buy another one and stash it away.

i drove my 72 521 around for a year with no turn signals. turns out i didn't plug in the plug all the way on the wire harness.

wow that bike looks exactly like my 81 honda cb650. damn i need to put that thing back together. its the longest going project on my plate. it only had 20k miles on it when it bagan to seep fuel from the head. i have a chance to buy a yamaha dt250 1968 which is the first year they came out. runs half ass. but if the price is right i'm going to get it.