dat521gatherer

my dial-up is free. hello!! i just love how all you people with jobs live at your means. your cable/phone/cell phone/internet bill must be great to pay for.

i wont use a heli-coil. i just drill and tap.if you drill straight enough you can put the same size bolt back in after tapping the hole. if you need to go bigger then i just use the next size tap. finding the right size tap/drill bit/helicoil is no fun. i never thought they worked that great anyway and you have to make the hole that much bigger for them. you want the hole or tap size as small as posibly or as close to original so you dont have to make the hole bigger in the part your putting on. oh, use cobalt bits if you can from tool town ect. i tried the wal-mart titanium bits and they are junk. cobalt rulz!! can you say alnico.:)

i see hainz already diagnosed my problem on nwde for somebody's engine noise. different problem though his was a loose cam bolt! i didn't realize it was the thermo bolt until i tried putting another guide on and the holes would not line up cause of the thermo bolt was in the way.

i'm not asking because there is a problem. i'm just curious. i did not tighten the chain with dowel 2 or 3 but did adjust my left timming guide to take care of some slop. i dont know if all replacement chains have 2 bright links but i think my chain is original. plunger was only out 10mm or 3/8. time for a complete rebuild but it sure runs strong for being original and burning oil like she does.

i just want to tripple check this just because. this is a early 1971 l16 motor with the 6 timming marks on the pully. my question is what is the red timming mark? according to the datsun 620 site info it should be 5 degres after tdc. correct? i already pulled the # 1 spark plug and tdc is either the red mark or the white one to the right of it. i pulled my timming cover cause the timming guide on the right had broke off and was rattling around in the cover. not good. yes it broke because of the thermostat housing bolt. before and after repair it runs best on the last timming mark on the far right. runs like a top or bat out of hell. the weber really makes a difference. again the red timming mark is 5 degres after tdc?

$150 for a running and clean title truck is awsome! bumperetts too!! i've had a rearend go out but never a tranny. sweat score.

my 65 dart had the 225 and i was in my 20's as the second original owner. the slant six 225 also came out with a hyperpack option that would be a four barrel setup. i've been reading about those aluminum block 225's and i guess only 45000-50000 were made. most are beyond machining cause of corosion but what a great conversion piece being as rare as they are. i keep forgeting about them when i'm at the yard but some people find them at local pull-a -part's.

ha ha those are all very fast and i bet you all got lots of tickets. i'll stick with the slant 6. i drove a 65 dart 4-door (ya know the one nobody wants)around for many years with the one barrel holley 1920 carb. i always wanted to put a 2-barrel super six in it but never did. i could still power brake and make the tires smoke with that one barrel. no tickets for me thats why i drive slooo cars. it would still do 100mph though. my friends uncle is a dart freak!! he has many sitting in his yard. he even has the super six i wanted. i'll own a dart again one day.

there is one down at pull-a-part right now the back is a little scratched up as are all of them. personally i would stay with the stock one and there everywhere very easy to find. unless you want a mint original. the last new one on ebay went for $105. the one at pull-a-part is $1.50 if its still there next time i go i'll get it for you if you still need it. $3-5 to ship depending where you live.

the wood block is temporary till i find a piece of sheet metal. i've had straight fuel lines hooked up to my hitchi 328 340 and weber and never had a problem. i did replace a float shut off valve once cause of flooding and it fixed the problem right away. you cant expect a spring that small and old to last soaked in fuelafter 30-35 years. although i dont deny other people have major problems with this. i personally have had no problems. i think the fuel pump only puts out like 3.5 psi.

my exhaust plugs came out so easy it was sick.

i just did mine in the last two weeks. i removed my manifolds to start from scratch. start by making some room in there. get rid of that black canister and that giant blue round thing. take off the pump itself. i removed all 4 pollution pipes from the exhaust manifold and put 14x1.5 bolts in. yes all 4 came out!! the l16 manifolds are 14x1.5 on my l16 only 1 came out and i drilled the other 3 out. the pipe on the bottom of the exhaust manifold i tried to unscrew but ended up drillind and putting a 14x1.5 after taping the hole. take off that ugly fuel rail pipe and put a single hose from the fuel pump to the carb. cap off the 2 other lines 1 being next to the starter and the other under the master cylinder.you may want to keep the 2 brackets next to the carb, one being for the carb return spring and the other being the throttle cable mount. when removing the 4 pipes from the manifold chop the lines off with a dremel or sawsall then you can stick a socket on them. use lots of wd-40 and work them back and forth and don't try useing a wrench. while taking off my manifolds i broke the 3 down/header pipe bolts and had to drill those out. if your ever buying drill bits stay away from the cheap titanium wal-mart and get the cobalt ones. as far as the block off plate for the side of the intake i am just useing a block of wood until i can find a piecre of sheet metal. i also scrapped the manifold drip plate and heat shield. now if you decide to take off the manifolds you may not be able to get to the lower intake bolts. so i undid the 4 connecting center manifold bolts that hold the 2 manifolds together and pried the intake up and off. thank god the gasket is thick enough to do this without scaring the head. i'll try to get some pics later tonight. (where to start) that was my first thought. i finished mine last night and now need the wiring harness from the ballest forward. maybe you could get a pic of that for me. i'm kinda stuck not knowing where the wires go. it was dizzed and then undizzed. and i've lost the wires from the coil to the dist. crap!!

wow!! do the doors actually open that wide? i likes it. i wonder if it has a engine. soon to be somebody's part truck or project, i can feel it.

dido for all. i've seen the original hitachi plastic speaker box mounted on the driver kick panel but usually is on the firewall on the package tray. lots of people chop up the door panels and doors. i dont recommend that. here's an original pic. behind the seat would bo nice but space is very limited.

hey char nobody will ever get the original weber air cleaner housing. thats part of the reason i bought that carb on ebay. i had another one years ago and sold it. just the original filter housing is pulling in $40-60 dollars. i have the chrome one on my 72 but they start to pit in about 1 year or so. they also made one that just had the straight lines that didn't say weber on it. i paid $130 for the carb and housing and it runs like a top. now my timing chain guide is loose and the chain is slapping. crap!! if or when i sell it the hitachi will go back on it.

yes the turbulence issue does concern me but i was told by tdaaj and a guy who owns a 521 that still works at nissan actually 3 people that the round exhaust on the square head will work as long as you use the square gasket. but i'm thinking of putting the old one back on or having my single pipe wacked and a dual welded on. but i think the dual output pipe is smaller round than the single output pipe. i really didn't want to put the round on the square anyway.

i want the one header/down pipe version not the two pipe version. square or round port doesn't matter as long as it doesnt connect to the intake. pollution tubes are ok too. for my 75 620 i took all of the pollution control off it. pm me if you can help. i'm in tacoma.

ok let me ruin this thread by posting my dd. i'm thinking of dumping it soon. great trucks from you guys keep it up.

camera is junk!!! 620 ignition plate

i have no major plans for it except one day i'd like to get the body work and paint done. everything else is just small little repairs or the mighty option list i would like to complete. for instance red hazard knob, hida-antenna w/key i got the ebay look-a-like, glove box lock is on the way, need fuel door lock, a cute little valve cover filter, window feelers, window felt, door seals the ones on ebay dont look right? clock, windshield, battery hold down, and the damn brakes have never worked right after i did the king pins and thats even after having two diff shops look at it. most recently i've got a new dome light and fuse for it. i got the seat,rug and ignition switch plate from the same 521 that was being parted. i dont think you can get a rug unless you have a upholstery shop make one. i got a spare custom made rug from ted but i'm going to hang on to it. i bought a rug from j.c whitney years ago and it sucked really bad. i'm thinking my ignition switch looks to be out of a 620? here's a pic of my mud flaps, i had to make extensions to make me happy. also a pic of my broken battery tray bracket. maybe some day i'll put a dizzy in it. thats my original speaker in the other pic.

my scout 2 had a push button start and i loved it. i dont know if it was factory or not. took me awhile to realize the key cylinder started it also. good luck with that.

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i've been lurking for a long time now without showing you my baby. i've owned this truck for close to 12 years now. it's all about the commitment. it has a 1980 l20b and a weber 34/36. discount tire rims at $36 each. it's rattled navy blue satin, inside paint is original, engine compartment is 1995 toyota red, engine is chrysler blue. i wanted it all red but have moved on to other 521's and a 620 for now. you can see my super rare red headlight knob now if i could just get the matching hazard knob. i've covered the dash twice but the material on top always fades. floor boards are solid. has some bondo on the tailgate. i got my seat and rug used but its among the best 521 rugs i've seen even with the stain under the floor mat. you can see my round gas pedal plate that reconnected my pedal. i drove around for many weeks with some fishing line tied to a screw driver for a throttle. i think eventually they all fall off, don't they? it's not done but done enough for me to be very happy with it..thanks ted for the rear bumper!!

or for checking the nerves in your fingers

yes, belt sander and drop light are my favorite. speaking of a cresent wrench has anyone seen the type that has a squeeze handle attached to the worm gear? you adjust the worm gear then squeeze the handle for a super tight fit. does this cresent wrench have a special name and who makes one. my dad had one years ago and i haven't been able to locate one, most people have never even heard of it. my friend claims some people at his work has them but fails to bring me a brand name. even the guy at tool town claims to never have seen one.