Zeusimo

Do You Drive Like That?? Tire Size?? Any Rubbing? I Was Considering Titans But I Guess I Screwed Myself By Buying Tires :P

I Got Mine At Autozone (I Got Two Of Them Since They Are Really Thin)

Any History? Has The Car Been Sitting.. Or Was It A Reliable Daily? All You Really Need To Check Is Fuel/Air And Spark Pull Spark Plugs And Test Individually By Grounding Then To The Block (Have Someone Crank The Motor) And Look For A Blue/Whitish Spark Make Sure Carb Is Pumping Gas To Motor And Check Timing, Valve Lash, Ect..

Home Depot Paintable Silicone Cauking Gun Sand Paper Paint 3 Hours Of Time

OK, Turns Out The Primary Flapper Thingy Was Stuck Open So Now It Starts At 17-19 Hundred With Choke Unplugged Also Lots Of Smoke Lol And Smelly :D I Think I'm Good Now But I Have No Idea How To Adjust The Two Screws And The Choke :unsure:

I Have To Smog My Truck Soon So I Took The Weber Off And Rebuilt My Hitachi I Added All The Smog Stuff And I Know It's All Right The Problem Is When I Start My Truck It Just Revs Up And Doesn't Stop (Throttle's Not Stuck) I Do Get A Hissing Sound And I'm Sure It's From The Carburetor Itself Not Outside... If That Makes Sense Also The Idle And Mixture Screw Don't Do Anything.. The Gas Level Stays At The Dot So I Know I'm Good On That Part I Really Don't Know What's Going On Here Maybe I Suck At Rebuilding Carbs :(

My Set-Up (Slight Rake) It Rides SMOOTH Front: Low Profile Bump Stops (Summit), KYB Gas-A-Just Shocks, Raised Shock Towers 2", Stock Torsion Bars Rear: 720 4x4 Leaf Springs, 3" Lowering Blocks, And Monroe Coilover Load Adjusting Shocks (C Notch Frame If You Wish(Not Nessesary Unless You Carry A Load)) 225/60/14 BFGoodrich Radial T/A On Stock Steelies Have The Same Stance As The Guy On Top

Frankenstein motors: Medium block 2.4 Liter. Stuff a Z24 crank and pistons into NAPS-Z or L20B block bored to 89mm by cutting down crank counterweights and clearance grinding block as per Ben Pila. This gives you a 2389cc L-series motor that doesnt require using defective (crack prone) Z24 block, fabricating timing cover, lengthening timing chain or modification to close hood. Z24 piston tops will need to be milled down slightly. Fedral-Mogul 33.8mm pin height pistons might not need milling? Click HERE for Bens write-up of necessary modifications. Compression ratio with Z24 pistons and open chambered head is 10.25:1 before pistons milled. parts: : modified Z22 block, modified Z24 crank, modified Z24 pistons, Z22S/ L20B rods s/2+r+p: 227.7 piston deck height: 0.45 (above deck) Stroker 2.3 Liter Stuff a Z24 crank into a modified Z20/Z22/L20B block by cutting down counterweights as above. No piston modification or block boring needed for 2283cc L series. see http://hobbslaw.niss...om/custom2.html for an example Russ noted that his deck height measured -1.77mm with the Z22E pistons that he first tried using, he eventually used milled Z22S pistons to achieve a higher compression ratio. Parts: Z24 crank, Z22E pistons, Z22S/ L20B rods in a Z22 block or +2mm bored Z20/L20B block. s/2+r+p= 96/2+145.9+32.1= 226.0 mm piston deck height: -1.45mm below deck Big Bore 2.3L KA24 pistons into a bored Z20/Z22/L20B block. The small 2.8cc dish area of the KA24 pistons helps to preserve compression ratio even with the low piston deck height. Compression ratio with a open chambered U67 head is 9.9:1 or use dished Z24 pistons and peanut chambered head for 8.9:1 compression ratio. Parts: Z22 crank, KA24 pistons, Z22S/ L20B rods in a +2mm bored Z22 block or +4mm Z20/L20B block. s/2+r+p= 92/2+145.9+34.0= 225.9 mm piston deck height: -1.55mm below deck Longrod 2.19L/2.24L Start with VG30E pistons and have the tops milled by 2.7mm to produce 29mm pin height. Custom pistons of similar specifications would also be recommended. Using the long Z20E connecting rods gives this engine a better rod/stroke ratio of 1.66:1. (stock Z22 rod/stroke ratio is 1.59:1). Start with +1mm VG30E pistons and bore the block +1mm to 88mm to gain a bit more displacement (2238cc). This engine with custom 89mm pistons is rumored to be the basis for the "rebello 2.3L". parts: Z22 crankshaft, Z22 block, Z20E rods, milled VG30E pistons. s/2+r+p: 227.5mm piston deck height: +0.05mm (above block) Long rod 2.1 L I really like the possibilities for this 2.1L longrod motor. For a more in depth analysis of this motor click HERE. Parts: L20B crank, Z22E pistons, Z20E rods in a Z22block or Z20/L20B block bored +2mm s/2+r+p: 227.9mm piston deck height: +0.05mm (above block) Long rod L18 flattop Z20S pistons and peanut chamber head for 9.7:1 CR, better rod/stroke ratio for higher RPM. Parts: L18 crank, L18 block, L16 rods, Z20S pistons s/2+r+p: 207.66mm piston deck height: -0.29 (below deck Low compression combinations for use with turbochargers Turbo 2.2L 7.87:1 Compression ratio with 45.2cc open chambered head. Parts: Z22 crank, 2.2E pistons, Z22S/L20B rods in Z22block or Z20/L20B block bored +2mm, s/2+r+p: 224.4 piston deck height: -3.45 (below block) Medium-Long Rod Turbo 2.05L Use 32.1mm piston, 149.5mm rod from late Z22E. These rods are not as sturdy as onther L series rods. Parts: L20B crank, Z2.2e pistons, Z22e rods, Z22 bock or Z20/L20B block bored +2mm over s/2+r+p: 224.1 piston deck height: -2.85 (below block) Short Rod L16 This is my current low compression L16 for turbo use. 7.8:1 CR using 37cc cylinder head. Lowering compression of a L16 would be easier by just installing a open chambered L20B head and using stock bottom end. I just wanted to utilize a good 37cc head I already had. parts: L16 crank, L18 rods, L24 (flattop) pistons, L16 block. s/2+r+p: 205.2mm piston deck height: -2.70mm (below deck) Turbo L18 Use deep dished L20B pistons in a otherwize stock L18 for 7.63:1 compression ratio (using open chambered head) or bore +1mm and use dished 280Z pistons for 7.85:1 compression ratio. Long rod 2.1L motor parts: L20B or Z20 crank, Z22E pistons, Z20E rods in a Z22 block or +2mm bored L20B/Z20 block This would be the best HIGH REVING, increased displacement, high compression, engine you could build from the mdium height L20B/Z20/Z22 size block. A "standard" L/Z 2.2 would have 5% more displacement and better midrange torque than this engine but the 2.1 longrod motor with 86mm fully counter weighted L20B/Z20 crank will suffer less vibraton at high RPM than the 1/2 counterbalanced Z22 crank and the hybrid 2.1L will have a slightly oversquare bore/stroke ratio, so better reving than the Z22 "truck engine".Rod to stroke ratio of the 2.1L motor is 1.77:1. Of all the possible L series motors only the L16 has a higher rod/stroke ratio (1.80:1). The long Z20E rods will reduce stress on pistons and help to make more HP at high RPM. The 1.5mm thick Z22E piston compression rings are thinner than 2.0mm L series piston rings so put less stress on the piston ring lands and are less prone to flutter at high RPM. In short, this motor should be a screamer if you build it well, balanced the rotating assembly, and use a suitable RPM cam, head and induction system. The HOW TO MODIFY bible cautions against allowing the piston to come further than 0.30mm above the deck top, when built with 32.1mm pin height late Z22E pistons (1/82 and later), this motor when build would have the piston tops 0.05mm above. The "bad" honzowetz spec chart list Z22E pistons as having 32.5mm pin height so verify that you have the correct pistons. With a high duration cam and high octane gas to reduce risk of detonation, you should be able to use a peanut chambered head to get higher CR and better chamber shape. The peanut head will be more detonation resistant for a given CR vs a open chambered head. If you are re-using old Z22E pistons, they will be 87mm. Engine displacement will be 2044cc.If you are buying new pistons, get Z22E pistons in +1mm oversize, 88mm and bore the L20B or Z20 block +3mm to 88mm or convert a Z22 block and bore only +1mm. Engine displacement with 88mm pistons will be 2092cc for a near true 2.1L motor. Did I mention that this motor make HP at high RPM!?? With 87mm bore, 86mm stroke producing 511cc of swept cylinder area, 9.32cc piston dish, 7.0cc gasket volume and the piston raised up above top of block by .05mm, using an open chambered head (U67 or A87) of 45.2cc volume, I calculate a CR of 9.31:1 or, if you used a 41cc peanut chambered head head, CR of 9.92:1. Check and verify the piston dish area and piston deck height! Since planning this motor, I have realized that it should be possible to use VG30E pistons in this engine instead of the Z22E pistons. I am just not sure if the VG30E piston pins would be compatible with the L series connecting rods, I have seen conflicting specs for the VG30E piston pins that would/would not work depending on who is right. As far as I can tell, the earliest VG30E pistons used wristpins pressed into the rods while the later VG30E pistons use full floating rods retained by circlips.The pressed in pins should work on the L series rods (measure and verify!) of if you use full floating pistons, ensure adequate clearance between wristpin and conncerting rod hole and it will be necessary to drill oil supply holes in the connecting rod to splash lubricate the pin bore. The VG30E piston pin height is the same 31.75mm as Z20E pistons so the piston top would not protrude above the block thus no modifications to piston would be necessary. Compression ratio would be slightly higher with the VG30E pistons because they do not have the large piston dish of the Z22 pistons.

I'd Buy One If It Were Only The Letters In Black :cool:

720 4x4 Springs Also Work But Will Lower 1.5"

Just Picked It Up $75 OH BABY

Just Remove X-Member And Unbolt Passenger Idler Arm Let Steering Hang (Tie If You Wish) Plenty Of Clearance Remove, Clean, Sand, Primer, Paint, Gasket, Sealer, Torque, Some More Unessesary Steps... While You're Down There Slap On A EFI NapZ Oil Pump :P

620 Right? I Just Changed My Pan Gasket

I'll Pick That Up For $103 :) But Really... $1500, $1200?? Just Motor/Tranny/Car/What??

Done :D Having My Friend Take It To The Machine Shop First Thing Tommorow While I'm At Work Cutting And Balancing :cool:

Too Late Mike, I Just Went To Home Depot For An Angle Iron And A Few Dummy Bolts :lol:

I Just Thought About Jamming The Cam Sprocket And Try Cracking Them Loose... Yes? :huh:

I'm Trying To Remove My Flywheel On My Truck So I Can Get It Resurfaced Because It Killed My Clutch (Somewhat Similar To Excessive Camber On Tires) I Don't Have Any Impact Wrenches Or Fancy Tools... Just A breaker Bar :( I Have Tried Jamming It But The Motor Jumps Up And Down Then It Breaks Free Again PITA Any Ideas???