metalmonkey47

I've got the idle circuit done, Ive got a spare jet so I'm gonna try and find a bit to.match close to a.160 and see how that goes. Thanks for the information. I've been trying to set something up with some SUs or a single DCOE but I.need this thing to go okay for now. I really don't need to blow up any expensive parts! I have no idea what the air jets are. Any idea on a proper size to go with those jets??

Yeah, I'm gonna go drill a spare jet tonight and open my secondary a bit. I've had the timing up to about 14 degrees and.never pinged. Even under heavy load running lean which is weird to.me. I'm gonna check the plugs in a short bit. It made decent power before, not as much as I feel like it should have but the weber is a huge turn down. I also have a tall spacer that probably isn't helping. The Z20 matches L20 perfect gasket perfectly so no drilling is needed when using an L timing.cover

So here goes nothing: LZ22 Z20 Block Z20S Rods (long rods) Forged 86mm Pistons A87 Peanut head w/ Z valves, .475 Cam, 1 5/8 intake ports Compression Ratio comes out around 9.4:1 Header w/ 2.25 exhaust ARP Head/Main studs and rod bolts Matchbox dizzy Running a port matched U67 intake with EGR ports welded up and a 32/36 with .140 main/secondary fuel jets 160 degree T-stat Noticed over the last few days I've been losing a little power, in fact I don't feel like I'm doing much better then my 52HP L20B anymore. Plenty of torque, not much power anymore. In addition I've noticed today that on long drives after driving the truck under load at highway speeds it starts to overheat. Pulled the t-stat hoping it was the problem, but no good. Radiator hose is in good shape, radiator is fresh and clean as is the block. I'm thinking I may be running super lean, but I'm not getting any pinging. I retarded the timing down to about 5 degrees to see if advance might have been the issue, but it made little to no difference, but made a little bit better power. Idling the engine seems to cool itself efficiently. I'm running a 14'' electric fan and an engine mounted fan. No coolant in the oil or vice versa, but I'm going to compression test it later anyways, since it's only got about 300 miles on it so far after the first break in oil change... it runs good, and consistent but is a HUGE loss in the power department. I know my carb/spacer aren't very good for the motor to begin with, but this thing is BUILT and isn't making enough power to compete with a stock L20B. Feedback??

I think it's a hand brake indicator? My 210 only came one when the handbrake was set.

35W HID's have a lower current draw then standard halogen bulbs (most are around 55W) so it's not physically possible.

FUCK YOU IZZO IT'S MURDERED OUT :fu: By my definition :fu: Murdered out with black accents... yup, that's it! Not gonna bother with the epoxy primer on the cab/fenders because there's too much cutting/welding to be done first. Gonna strip the entire cab down, pull it from the frame, make new body mounts, rockers, etc. The body is so much worse then it looks under all the bondo the PO used.. I've almost got the bed finished, so I'll do it there. Me too, but the bedside is what bothers me. I just started the work on it and got slammed with work, and never found time to do it again. I'm either working like crazy, or so tired on my off days recouping from work that I don't want to touch it. If I had known it would take so much to get it right, I would have left the paint alone back a year ago when i started on the bed and just rocked the patina. I want to get it one color for now. Cuz it's freaking hot here in GA, and that white paint would be a blessing.

L20B or KA-E

So here's the deal... I'm tired of my truck looking so mis-colored and bullshitty. Like that^^^ I just don't have time to finish it now because of my full time job that's tossing me heavy into overtime. LOTS of metal to replace and months worth of bodywork to do. AND I'm looking at a bubble flared 2-door that will occupy a lot more of my time too. So, I'm thinking about spraying on a thick coat of Epoxy primer on the bed after straightening it out, shaving the bed seams, and: -White rattlecan paint -Toss back on my 15x10's -Slam the back down with the fenders pulled a little more -BRE Stripes -Black Bulletside -Door mirrors deleted with Peep mirrors. -Yellow high's -BRE spook style lip -exhaust exit the bedside out of a single 2.5'' magnaflow That's all for now... My inspiration:

You sure on that?? Pretty sure they're all 12x1.25 unless it changed on the later models

A few buddies Merc's on Canibeat. I have some pictures I took of them somewhere.

How was this done?

PM sent...

Gasket?

Just wait, im sure Indy took 1000 or so :fu:

Wouldn't backpressure be good for low end power/torque??

Either that or the PO dropped the trans on the clutch fork, bound up the collar, and broke it off the front cover. Prolly not that though. just a though.

Yessir! I was gonna put the motor off for a little while while I work on finding some better carbs, bit we made a last minuet decision to get it done. This Weber is freaking GARBAGE for HP. I mean, utter shit. I want to toss it in a pile and never look at it again. It got such a huge potential that the crappy carb is holding back. I revved the truck out to about 6K for the first time tonight, and it felt like it was struggling a bit. Probably the tiny venturi's. The Weber 38/38 only goes for about $220 so I might hop on that in a few weeks. Oh yeah??? How much $$$??? Yeah man.... see, money lol And I'm allergic to koolaid haha

Get some alignment shims. Or make some.

shitty situation fixed....

You need airshocks. Only about $66-70 @ AZ with a lifetime warranty.

The steering wouldn't be too bad I'd imagine, but would involve a lot of custom fab. A lot of people use the S13 rack & pinion and front suspension setup. At that point, you could just adapt the whole front suspension and have larger vented disk brakes, power steering, and proper sized front struts. I imagine you could fab the 210 (79-82) Power brakes onto the B210 fairly easily. Check Datsun1200.com in the wiki section and you may find more info. Out of curiosity, why do you want power steering?? The front end is so light.

Honestly, I think for an East Coast price, he's being very reasonable with his price. It looks great. Now the rust is a big problem and to be expected with that nasty Florida salt water. That's gonna take quite a bit to fix there from the looks of it, but it's doable.