metalmonkey47

This thread is only for people running Windows OS 98-7. Basically, everyone :rofl: This thread is a basic explanation on restoring your slow PC to it's original (or close to it) processing power. Generally, as a PC evolves through the years as programs are updated and installed, the number of processes running in the back ground tend to build up and put a giant drain on your available resources. You'll find when running through the following steps, that you may see a HUGE difference in the way your computer runs, or you may not. It all depends on your specific situation. I'll put this as simple as I can for you non-tech savy guys to understand. Step 1. https://www.malwarebytes.org/ Download and install the program above. It's one of the best programs for detecting and removing hidden malware and virus's that hide in your computer. A quick scan is all you'll need. Doing this regularly is a great form of preventative maintenance to insure that your computer is always running clean and free of malicious bastards hiding in the background. Step 2. http://www.piriform.com/ccleaner Download and install this program as well. This one does two things for you. A; It gives you the option to use the "cleaner" feature you scan your system files and old internet databases for old, outdated, and unnecessary files that are no longer needed. You can select and un-select the options you would like the system to scan through. It will work as just cleaning temporary system files, or you can delete your internet cache, cookies, history, etc. There's a lot it can do for you. This won't help speed up your computer, but it will give you a little more free space. B; There is a section as well for cleaning the registry. This tool removes old entries that are no longer valid. Before selecting "fix selected issues" after you scan, a prompt will show up asking you to backup the registry. ALWAYS select 'yes'. I've never seen an issue with this program and the registry going corrupt, but it's always nice to have a backup just in case. You will typically have about 1-200 results show up. Some may have more, some less. You may have to run and scan the registry a few times in order for it to clean out the stubborn entries. Restart your computer. Step 3. This step is a little more advanced, so if you're not comfortable working on your own computer, do NOT make any changes here. What you're doing here is eliminating un-necessary processes running in the background and hogging your processor resources. Here, you will open the start menu and select "Run." If you're running Windows 7 or Vista(I think?) you will not see this. You'll type the next command into the "Search Programs and Files" bar. Type in 'msconfig' into the prompt and press enter. You'll see a window like the following open up. It varies from your operating system, but they're all basically the same. Select the "Startup" tab. Here, you're going to see a list of processes that are run on system startup. the ones with the checkmark are programs that open on startup. Browse through this list and un-check any boxes that belong to programs that don't need to be running. These will be programs like the following examples I have running that I stopped... Yahoo Messenger Skype Google Updater Quicktime Majicdisk DivX Updater ETC. That's just a small list of programs I stop. Do NOT close programs with names that you do not recognize. If you have questions about a process, ask me and I can tell you what to do. Don't close any that belong to your anti-virus or any programs you want to continue running. Click apply, restart your computer and enjoy. Hopefully, this helps out a tad bit. I usually see a noticeable difference on friends computers, but each is different. For the time being, I'm going to leave it at this. Theres a few more steps I may add in the future, but this should help ya out for now.

Your computers slow you say? Okay this is an easy one... I'm gonna go make a write up I think

If it's not going to be a big deal, drop the tank and inspect it, then flush if necessary. If you can get a hold of another tank, you can clean that one up, replace your old tank, then clean out your old one and sell it. Balances out at $0 and everyone wins. At the same time, blow out the fuel lines with compressed air to be sure theres no sediment in the lines.

Looks sweet!!!! Those things are super great cars to own.

Hmmmm, okay that all makes sense to me now! So the alternator is NOT the problem in this case then as far as the drain. I think I'm looking at the wrong end of the wire. I guess my next step should be to trace the wiring from the gauges back. I see what you mean about the "l" and 'S' terminals now as well, I got a better look at the alt now and I see it. For the time being, I think what I'm going to do since my existing alternator is charging fine, I'm going to hook a relay to switched 12v on one side and the alternators 12v signal wire so when the ignitions off, the relay is open and theres no drain, just long enough for me to either locate a parts car with an unmolested harness or find the wiring issue. Thanks for the help I'll update if needed.

Okay, heres what I've done today; I went ahead and pulled the alternator and swapped on my spare alternator, and the car charges in the normal 13.9-14.2 range. However, I still do have the drain. The"L" alternator that came off the car had no castings or numbers on it, so I'm not sure what model it is. I didn't hook up an idiot light yet, since I don't have time time before work, but I put a multi-meter on the charge light wire and had 14 volts at it, so the charge light is "on." At least it's driveable

I just logged in without issues.

I lost faith in the good 'ol USA a long time ago. Sadly, our country isn't the great, glorious country it used to be.

for reference, here's a picture of the back of the alternator. (NOT my exact one)

1979 I believe? I made sure it was internally regulated. AutoZone P/N is 14303 for reference. Idk why it happens We use the same vendors as Advance and Orielly, but that doesn't mean anything. I'll go back for a new one later. Can you elaborate more on 'S', 'N', and 'F' terminal? Are you referring to the plug? (Sorry for the ignorance, I'm still new to Datsun's and electrical circuits) As far as the choke relay, i had heard about the problem before, so the relay was removed from the car before I was troubleshooting. This is kinda a screwy problem Nah, I made sure it was an IR unit before replacing I didn't need regulator issues Sorry to make a new thread, I needed to get it solved ASAP since I have to drive the car tomorrow for work, but it looks like that won't happen since I burned up the alt And sorry about that last question before, I was in a hurry and missed that

Still considering doing that..... lol

Here's a more detailed explanation of the problem, just to help make sure I've covered everything. When I bought the car, it had a drain on it. When you un-plug the alt signal, the drain ceases.My initial idea was that the diode in the alternator was shorted and faulty. Also, the charge light was on, but not fully illuminated. I found that what was causing the drain is the hot white wire that's a 12V wire. The alternator that came on the car was noisy and sounded like the bearing was failing, so I replaced it with a 60amp from an L28. Literally plug and play. Prior to this, the car was charging fine, but had a drain on the battery. This was a few months ago. In the last few weeks, I've noticed the alternator has a tendency to either overcharge at 16-16.5V, or at idle, produce only 12.5-14V. At the same time, I've noticed a burning smell from the alt, and it gets hot quick, as if it's shorted. I've replaced it under warranty 4 times. All charge fine for about a week. Then problems persist. Something on the car is burning up alternators. The car has NO factory gauges and no idiot light. It's been replaced with a newer gauge. Prior to reading this, I had the same idea that you suggested to just running from battery + over to the back of the signal where the 12V white wire connected, to bypass all the wiring. This proved to be a bad idea.... It went up in flames after the car ran for 5 seconds.

All related to this thread >> http://community.rat...d-overcharging/ I'm making a new thread here so it's easier if anyone searches for it for future information I've been through ALL my wiring on my 210 and have found nothing related to the alternator that's out of the ordinary. The alternator has a drain on the signal wire, and is either overcharging at 16 volts or not charging. The wiring on it is actually quite simple; Large white wire runs from the battery to positive on the alt. Black goes to ground Then on the "T" connector theres two wires. Large white wire that's supplies 12V to signal from the battery (Thats correct right?) Small white/red wire to dash idiot light. After verifying all the wiring and double checking EVERYTHING, I still have the problem. I've had 4 brand new alternators on it, so theres not a chance that I'm getting bad alternators. This time, I notice the alternator is overheating and producing your typical 'burning electronics' smell. A few quick questions; A: Why is the alternators factory wiring supplying 12V at signal and at the alt +? B: How would I go about temporarily bypassing the alternators factory wiring to get the alternator charging properly so I can verify it's a wiring problem somewhere on the harness? I need to get this done ASAP since I have to be at work tomorrow and it's my only form of transportation. It can't be just as simple as running 12V from the battery to the signal could it?

Yeah, I've found the problem (kinda) I unwrapped ALL the wiring under the hood and back through the firewall and discovered the fucking PO cut out a harness from another car and spliced it into this car and tried to hide it I'm uber pissed. It's HORRIBLE.

Yup, same pulley size, so it's not overdriving it. I got it from Autozone where I work, so I've pretty much checked it every way I can. I've put on 4 different alternators and they've all done this, so I have a feeling the issue is on the car. I started her up today (been out of town for a WEEK) and it's not charging. It's also flaming hot after a few minuets, and stinks like an elephants ass, so I have a feeling I've burned out the alternator.

Yup Prosport

I got one from someone on here for about $60 shipped. It's sitting in my garage because I'm putting it on when I do my ITB's. I have a feeling from comparing it to bills pics, that it's on of his headers. I was told it doesn't fit with the factory intake. Haven't tried yet.

bump

I haven't found one locally yet. Pull-a-part is empty and no one on craigslist is parting with ANYTHING. Lemme know if you can track one down.