Kirden

Hrm, that would be fun. However, I could see me yelling at other drivers a lot, so maybe not so fun...

Open your mouth and look in the mirror Tristan :fu: Anyways, from the research I've done, it would seem like you would want a closed chambered peanut head for high compression because the combustion chamber is designed to reduce pinging. The quinch area is better for these applications. Double check to make sure that your A87 isn't the closed chamber, becazuse I've never heard of an open peanut head either. If it is closed, that would be the one I would use.

That wagon looks great. Are those work equips? Look similar to the ones up for sale in the classifieds.

Pretty cool find man. I really like that camper. Also, love the large horn on the passenger side :P

I choose this one :) http://www.amazon.com/digital-camera-changing-plates-94009/dp/B002SRUVC0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1372125778&sr=8-1&keywords=hello+kitty+camera Or: http://www.amazon.com/Phineas-Ferb-Click-Digital-Camera/dp/B0048UK1T8/ref=pd_sim_p_2 Cause its so you! :P

I have a 74 (has tank mounted to the bed) and we bypassed the vapor tank. The bottom most port was hooked up to the line going to the fuel pump. The port near the middle of the tank was hooked to the line coming from the top of the filler neck, and the rear most port at the top of the tank was hooked to the evap line. So far there haven't been any problems. Edit: The evap line is the hardline on the rail that runs beside the tank. It runs along side the brake line and ends at the rear of the tank. The best way to notice it is it hooks up above the frame with the connection facing back towards the cab.

I'm confused. How did you get a datsun that didn't have the factory rats nest behind the dash? I'm pretty sure that was original equipment for my datsuns. The car looks good. I like the "best mpg" mark on the speedo gauge. You could have a massive sleeper on your hands if you leave the exterior like it is now :P

Smart car with bike engine swap. Done and done :fu:

Got my shirt today. Still waiting on my hard drive to get the home computer going so I can post your wet t-shirt pic tristan. :thumbup:

Well, I didn't read the whole thread, but I became shocked when I found out that I agree with something jalen said... However, I will get lightly involved because I vote to free banner. Come on guys, lets just chill out and roll with it. We are all here cause of the information ratsun provides and the luls and conversations we have here. Banner has been helpful to so many people here, it is a shame to silence him. So what he is upset about the changes? Many other members are as well. Do we silence helpful members because they disagree with the changes? From a new member, please stop all the bickering, let people have their freedom of speech, and get back to Datsuns. Afterall, thats why we all joined right?

I like your mazda bro... ollz, I keed I keed. Very nice truck and a great start for a mini truck. And since no one else has said it, Needs moar lowar!

Buh bye pretty :( Atleast it was moved for more Z car amazing fun times.

These last two posts were kinda naughty... male shafts, female housings, dropping your balls everywhere. Also, it is slightly strange that your male parts have 3 balls... Too much info man. Lastly, I think your camera is a bit drunk. Either that or it is shy... But seriously, great write up. I really wish we had a tech wiki cause this is prime info.

Getting some new parts from RA. Here is a list of the current stash + the new parts: Oil, fuel, and air filter 25ft fuel hose fuel pump brake master cyl clutch master and slave cyl rear wheel cyls fron caliper rebuild kits carb rebuild kit plugs and wires oil pan gasket (still not sure how hard this is to change without pulling the engine) valve cover gasket 50ft vacuum hose cheapo battery fuses new fluids cleaned and sealed fuel tank Trying to decide what else I need to pick up before I do an initial start up. Dripped a little MMO down the spark plug holes today. I only have one day off again this weekend so not much will be done (hope to have the carb rebuilt and possibly installed). I know I still need windshield wipers, brake pads and shoes, tires, and sideview mirrors before I try to drive it. I also thought about replacing the wheel bearings while I'm at it. Still need to inspect the brake lines. Now I have another question. I'm replacing my brake and clutch master cyls because the brake fluid has evaporated and left a crystalized mess around the seals. I'm guessing that this same mess will be in the hoses and lines since the car sat for about 4 years (that I know of). Would it be best to replace all of the hoses and lines or is there some way to clean the hardlines out and just replace the hoses? Feel free to make other suggestions as far as what to replace to get this back on the road safely.

That seems like a whole lot of carb for a 1.5 that I assume is stock? I would suggest spending the money you would put into this "upgrade" in head work, a cam, and either R1 carbs or a 38 weber downdraft. Depending on machine costs you are looking at about the same price as the dellortos and you have either easily rebuildable carbs or a brand new weber that can easily be reference for a blow through setup. Then look for a supercharger made for smaller displacement engines (around 2-2.5) and you have a pretty quick dd setup and you don't have any low rpm lag. There are plenty of people claiming 140-160whp with setups like these over at the 1200 forum. This is the route I hope to go with my B210.

Welcome SirSmithy! Glad to see someone else in Macon has some taste :P Good looking 210 you have there.

Need moar silver paint :fu: That looks really nice. Is Ron Davis one of the guys that builds custom radiators if you send in measurements?

This is a nice project. Reminds me of all the old cars my grandpa had at the farm. Glad it didn't take too much to get it back on the road.

If you get the kit for your vehicle, the mpg loss shouldn't be bad once it is tuned.. You may actually gain mpg if your surrent carb is in need of repair. I bought mine from webercarbsdirect.com and their kit isn't as good as Redline's from what I hear. Supposedly Redline has there carbs pre-jetted close to the vehicle that the kit is made for, which makes tuning easier. Weber carbs direct does not pre-jet the carbs with their kits. They use the average jets which somehow works out to 160/150 for mains. My 620 runs pig rich and is fouling plugs now. Adjustments, as far as the idle circuit, are easy. You can look up some really good information on the web or pick up the weber tuning book. I think its a haynes manual. Good luck, be sure to take pics.

He is just trying to get a good petina out of that thick red paint he slathered on the bottom. He'll be back :fu: