Kirden

This guy, stealin ideas and :poop: ... LOL! just kidding man. I still have a long way to go on the top end before my build is "complete." Still need my carburetor setup, blower, cam, valves/springs/retainers/guides, and machining the head. Race to the finish? :P

... yo sugar daddy, buy me a kamaeri flywheel for my B210 :P

To combat "pics or it didn't happen" Ford/Mazda Duratec 2.3l pistons you can see the shitty replacement radiator in that pic as well... Shitty cave pic of some goodies... Very poor light in my living room Rings, rod bolts, head studs rods 6" Rods Also have the crank but it's still packed up waiting for the trip to the machinist. Piston specs are: 87.5mm bore size 28.25mm Pin height 1.2 ,1.2 ,3.0mm ring gaps -15cc dish, no valve reliefs hypereutetic cast aluminum $90 for the set! :thumbup: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/slp-h895cp/overview/make/ford

Ford/Mazda duratec 2.3L pistons. There are also forged pistons for this application that come in many different dish/dome configurations for higher/lower CR but I went with sealed power hyper replacements.

Thanks RTB. I'll keep that in mind. My setup is actually using the 6" rods now and 28.25mm pin height pistons. Decided against all that huge piston/milling piston crap and found one that should work well with the very limited space that the Z22 crank + long rods leaves you. We'll see how it does once I figure out everything I need to take to the machinist for proper bottom end inspection/modification.

I really do, I love your truck but had never seen the interior till now. Definitely fitting to everything you've done to the exterior. My truck is just ratty/redneck rigged, but yours has style. Oh, I think I sent you a PM about your wheel services if you still do that.

Wait, why didn't I see this earlier... Why so horny bro? :P The dash top looks like it has been re covered is some cheap material. I've never seen a 521 up close, but it looks off from the picture. It should be some sort of vinyl I believe.

Nice roadster, but now you're on the ihatechu list. Sorry, it's mandatory till I can find a roadster, but I will still oogle photos and try to help in any way possible. Welcome to ratsun. BTW, can you share your color code? That looks like it would be really nice polished out.

Cheetah and leopard? Just need some gator skined door panels and a zebra print blanket on the seat and it'll be a full on zoo :P I don't have any full on shots of my console, but it's horrible. Not bolted down, covers the bottom vent of the heater box, and can't hold a big gulp... On a side note, I'm really liking the neon console but not sure how it'll work with my fat ass sitting crab style over the steering wheel just to fit in the standard cab... First time I saw my 620 was like... How's that gonna work :confused:

Nice bump up there! Datsun money is always great :thumbup: Taxes eat my check alive down here. I work 3 13.5 hour days and one 11 hour day per week. Bring home $1250ish every 2 weeks while they rake 350-400 off the top. That should all change in the near future though. They're supposed to promote me for my b-day :P

Holy crap... Talk about going after it. This is great

Due to the steering components, I may end up having to make a log manifold. There's nothing technically wrong with that design and they are vintage, so atleast it will feel period correct :P Something like this: But I may have to position it forward to miss the steering arm. Then I'll lose the factory A/C, but that's a price I'm willing to pay :devil: Also, the log design puts more heat closer to the brake booster, but I'm thinking about removing that to clean up the engine bay anyway.

The Ratsun gods will forgive you if they get more pics :P Did you even finalize your turbo manifold? I finally sourced my R1 manifold from bogg brothers in the UK, but I'm still looking at headers (for NA) and a turbo manifold for my eventual rebuild. Luckily I laready have the turbo I want to use, just have to figure out mounting it. Turbo was for my old civic build. Small Greddy turbo and custom ported elbow. I'ts nice cause of the internal wastegate that's been modified for 10lbs of boost. It's a TD04 15G.

Need moar mardi gras, less preppy fake necklace... Bump longchamps, I has mesh :P

Thank Mike :thumbup: So would the L18s open A89 have the same chamber size as the U67? Just thinking it may be easier to use the stock A89 and rebuild the U67 down the road for more performance. That way the truck wouldn't have to be down while the U67 gets it's eventual rebuild.

Every time you open a browser, you instictively type "ra" hit tab, then remember you were supposed to be checking work invoices...

It's not... In Washington :P The U67 came off of the L20B. You can actually get OEM remanufactured ones from datsunpartsllc.com, but they are $500. Sometimes people on ratsun sell them for 100-200 depending on condition. Sometimes more or less. Look in the engine section for the Jason Grey sticky thread. He talks about the turbo L16 about half way through the second post for a brief moment. That will also give you some additional engine info for these old datsuns :)

Oh how far this truck has come. Did you ever find a shop local that offers rebarreling service? Sadly my project uses aluminum barrels, so not as easy as steel. I either need to widen the ones I have, or I'll need new barrels, which will probably be more than what I paid for the wheels...

That bed is awesome. I'ts like some sort of military accessory :P Love the patina on the cab. As far as lowering, the torsion bars actually make this much easier imo and it's free other than the time it takes (or if you break/lose the bolt/nuts). Here is the guide I used to learn how to re-index the bars: http://www.mazdabscene.com/forums/suspension/how-index-torsion-bars-with-pics-t22874.html Notably, I learned on a B2200, but the process is very similar. There is a thread on here that also explains the process and shows the C-clip that you (may) have to remove. I'm not sure on the 521, but on the 620 I had to remove the clip to slide the bar back enough to remove and reindex the bracket. Make sure you clean the bar and bracket and mark them so you know where you started.

I'm needing advice on which parts to take to the machinist. I currently have rods, pistons, pins, rings, engine block, and a stock U67 head in unknown condition. The block needs to be bored over to 87.5mm so that was a no brainer, and the pistons need to be pressed onto the rods. I want to have the crank checked and either need to have the machinist measure the crank and rods for bearing size, or figure out how to do it on my own. The head needs to be checked for warpage and I'll possibly have the valves unshrouded, but that is something I may do myself. So the question is, what else should I bring? I will assemble this engine myself to save money, but I also want to make sure I have everything ready prior to starting the assembly. For now I will either use the stock U67 head or the open A87 from my L18 (known running condition). Should I disassemble the head prior to taking it to the machinist? Btw, here are the pistons I finally decided to use (The picture is not correct, they are dished with no valve reliefs): http://www.summitracing.com/parts/slp-h895cp/overview/make/ford So: 87.5mm bore U67 or open A89 from L18 -15 dish pistons (28.25 pin height) 6" rods Z22 Crank 1.5mm, 88mm bore Nismo gasket I get around 8.5:1 CR with U67, not sure if the open A89 has a smaller chamber but CR would go up if it does.

Yet you drive Datsuns :confused: Just messin with you man, but it's all personal preference. I'd probably go 15s on a 510 as well, but the B210 just looks funny with 15s imo. Only good things about 15s is the tire selection is much better than 13s and 14s and they fit over most of the big brake kits. Not that you'd be swapping an LSx into this or anything like that... :ninja: