benzo

@datzenmike Thanks Mike for the pics and info. I still have my bump stops and the diff bump stop but I did trim them down some.  Definitely don't want to remove them. I am going to try 1.5" blocks to see how it feels as it's inexpensive but worst case I'll leave it where it's at on the 2" ones or go back to 1" blocks. 

@KELMO I added the 1" blocks initially and it drove and rode fine on the stock dimension shocks. I went to the two inch blocks and that's when it started to hit the diff/driveshaft tunnel. The shocks helped but I believe if I go back to the 1" blocks or maybe a 1.5" block it won't or shouldn't make contact. The leaf springs themselves did changed the shock position so going to a short body shock would help.

@datzenmike Yes you car correct. The blocks themselves don't change the shock length. I changed the leaf springs to the T3 kit so that changed the length this is why I went with a short body shock. When i added the 1" blocks it was ok or wasn't hitting the diff/driveshaft tunnel. Even now it doesn't hit as much but does if the road is really rough and hit something hard but if I go back to the 1" blocks I should be ok. I may try 1.5' blocks to see what happens.

Wanted to share on the channel for the wagon folks. I have been using the T3 leaf spring kit but wanted a short body shock as I felt the stock dimension ones were bottoming out. KYB support was helpful with dimension and mounting points so ordered a couple of choices to compare. Got them installed. Here are some pics and part #'s for any that want to know. The KG5519 is for a Ford Thunderbird and the KG4616 is for a Suzuki Samurai front. Since I am using the Technotoytuning leaf springs this did change the shock mounting location or moved it up compared to a stock leaf spring. I decided to go with the Suzuki shocks as based on my measurements this shock will give the car full stroke. The Thunderbird model would work too and may be more heavy duty in case you carry more stuff or want a stiffer suspension. I am using at the moment the 2" lowering blocks as well. The shocks fit with no modification and initial feeling is it smoothed out the ride. I can tell I was probably bottoming out the stock dimension Tokicos at times. Since I am using the 2" blocks that did move the axle closer to the differential/drive shaft tunnel so if the road is rough or big dips it does hit or bang hard. I may go back to the 1" blocks or try a 1.5" block to see how it is but so far the short body shocks are working. If you live in an area with smooth roads or not too bad you will notice the difference. I chose KYB as these were inexpensive to test ( about 30-40$ each) but if you want to go Koni or Bilstein or QA1 sure those will be great!

On Friday the short body shocks arrived. Got them installed. Here are some pics and part #'s for any that want to know. I chose two to decide. The KG5519 is for a Ford Thunderbird and the KG4616 is for a Suzuki Samurai front. Since I am using the Technotoytuning leaf springs this did change the shock mounting location or moved it up compared to a stock leaf spring. I decided to go with the Suzuki shocks as based on my measurements this shock will give the car full stroke. The Thunderbird model would work too and may be more heavy duty in case you carry more stuff or want a stiffer suspension. I am using at the moment the 2" lowering blocks as well. The shocks fit with no modification and initial feeling is it smoothed out the ride. I can tell I was probably bottoming out the stock dimension Tokicos at times. Since I am using the 2" blocks that did move the axle closer to the differential/drive shaft tunnel so if the road is rough or big dips it does hit or bang hard. I may go back to the 1" blocks or try a 1.5" block to see how it is but so far the short body shocks are working. If you live in an area with smooth roads or not too bad you will notice the difference. I chose KYB as these were inexpensive to test ( about 30-40$ each) but if you want to go Koni or Bilstein or QA1 sure those will be great!

Thanks for hosting this 

On Friday I lowered the back of my wagon another inch by swapping the T3 1" blocks to their 2" blocks and like the results. The car looks more aggressive and so far drives good or no issues to report. I think for me this is as far as I want to lower it as the streets and hills here are rough.  I am waiting to get some shorter body shocks to try. Here are some pics to show where it is at or reference. For all I am running the T3 leaf spring kit with their blocks,Addco sway bar and Tokico HP shocks, SSR (14x7.5 +6 195-60-14 tires) or Watanabe wheels (14x7.5-3.5 185-60-14 tires) in the rear and 280zx front strut housings/Brakes with Ground Control Coil overs and Tokico HP shocks with Bump Steer spacers. 

@edekalil was this in regards to my post? If so currently no rubbing and on Friday I lowered it more with 2" blocks and so far so good. Will post an update. 

@KELMO haha nice! Misses Benzo doesn't sew but Mumra does so may ask her.

@Jesse C. Haha yeah! The mooneyes ones are cool and thanks for that link. 

@datzenmike haha the Datsun Van or as my japanese friends call them. Need some tassles around the windshield.

@yenpit yes there's a shop I used that redid my passenger seat so will talk to them about binding the edges. I might just get those BRE non labeled floor mats as the price isn't too bad. Figure for my time and energy searching for stuff it would pay for it but then again the search can be fun and info shared can help others.

@Stoffregen Motorsports Yeah I know right. I am glad I kept certain items.

@bradicuss Thanks for the info. 

@Stoffregen Motorsports Thank you for chiming in on this. I'll look into it

@yenpitI was mainly looking for the front but having or making a rear would be nice for a cleaner look. Thanks for the offer. I may just get some carpet locally and make one.

Has anyone used floor mats off a different car that worked good for a 510 or 510 wagon? Looking for low budget options

Or is this one of those just use what the part store has to offer? 

Thanks all for any solid input

Has anyone used floor mats off a different car that worked good for a 510 or 510 wagon? Looking for low budget options

Or is this one of those just use what the part store has to offer? 

Thanks all for any solid input

Here is where my Goon is at. Finally received my Watanabe wheels and using them for just the rear for now and with the Ohtsu tires it feels good!

Picked up these Ohtsu tires in 185-60-14 to put on the Watanabe wheels for a bit of stretch for a bit of fender lip clearance and looks like they'll do as intended. I can't wait to go for a test drive. Feeling good about these tires as they were affordable at 57.00 each and free shipping. High treadwear rating, M+S rated and reviews from others remarked good performance, cornering and also noise level. I'll report back what I experience but here are some pics of what they look like mounted on 14x7.5 -3.5 Watanabes on my wagon. Running T3 leaf spring kit and 1" blocks.

Update 2/6 The tire and rim combo worked out great! Car likes and I like it. The negative offset and new tires feel really good. No rubbing and tires aren't noisy and on the highway are nice. Took it up high speeds and no issues. 

On 1/31/2023 at 11:39 AM, datsunfreak said:

 

FWIW, a lot of those high perfromance tires run a bit wider than "normal" tires of the same size. 👍

 

 

280ZX struts/brakes usually tuck the wheel in more than stock (about 1/2") allowing for a more aggressive offset. They seem to like around a +5, but the stock struts/brakes really want around a +15. 

 

You can also get away with a zero offset front if you dial in a little more negative camber. 

Thanks @datsunfreak I couldn't remember if the front would tuck more. I'll give them a try later. Been so long I forgot. As for the tires, yeah some brands run a bit wider but going to try some tires soon to get some clearance.

@edekalil Thank you! Yours is looking good! I am watching its progression.

Had ordered a set of RS Watanabes back in September as a part of the 50% sale from the JCCS show from RS Watanabe and they arrived a couple days ago. About a 4 month wait. Really happy to have received them. BuyNowJapan was the broker for the sales and they handled everything pretty smooth. Good communication. Here are some pics of the wheels. I had bought a staggered set as I have plans for these wheels for a future project but going to play with them on my wagon for a bit. I ordered a pair of 14x8-6 TypeB and a pair of 14x7.5-3.5 Type A. After test fitting the 14x8 sticks out a bit. It would work but would definitely rub if you go low and would need to at minimum cut the lip or roll the inner fender lip and use a 185 tire or lower to stretch it which I didn't want to do. I liked the 14x7.5 as it was almost flush so decided to mount some NOS Bridgestone RE55S tires in 195-60-14 size and they fit pretty good. Clearance is good at the height I have using Technotoytuning leaf spring kit with 1" blocks. I could possibly go lower and will play with the shackles as those have some adjustment points but so far I like it. Hope these visuals help for other 510 and Wagon owners. Oh just a note this is just the rears. Didn't do the front as I am pretty sure the wheels would stick out or rub as since I am using ZX front struts and brakes I would need a wheel maybe not as wide or a more positive offset. Update- went for drive and the tires do rub a little if I take a semi hard turn or hit a bump on the turn. Going to try a 185-60-14 tire for some stretch and give a bit of clearance.

@KELMO the rear end height is from the kit with their one inch blocks. I am using stock dimension tokico shocks. The shackles do have holes for adjusting so can and will play with that to see changes and also switching out shocks to a shorter body shock to see how that feels. I am using 14" wheels with 195-60-14 tires. My stock leaf springs with 2 inch blocks were at the same height. The major difference was the springs are noticeably stiffer and axle wrap went away or not as bad. The differential doesn't hit or hasn't hit ever since the swap. 

Since I had swapped out the back leaf springs on the wagon with the Technotoytuning kit a few months ago the back seemed a bit lower so lowered the front Ground Control coil overs an inch to match up or make the fender gap measurements the same.  Glad years ago when I set up the car that I have enough travel in the front shocks. After a test drive felt the same and can go over speed bumps and up my driveway the same as before. Don't feel my camber and toe will be thrown off much but will see. Waiting on 2" blocks/ubolts from T3 and shocks and will play with the shackles as those have adjustments too. Going to try the shackles first and then go from there. So far so good. Here are some before and after pics. Like the way it looks and not too low or unbearable ride quality.

@iceman510 Yeah it was about 6 dollars for the pack and glad it worked out. I did see online there is a larger kit that has more and various sizes. 

Thanks Mike! Appreciate your reply and info. I still have the flow guide on the strut tower. For now this line in the pic is capped off to prevent any future leaks when I fill up or accidentally overfill. I am using twin sidedrafts and just have the fuel line from the pump to the first carb and the carb feeds the second one and it ends there.

Hi Everyone. Happy New Year. I wanted to ask if some can help ID this Fuel Line.  I don't remember as it's been long but I believe this is a fuel return line or a vent? Pretty much I accidentally overfilled my tank and fuel came out of it and into my engine compartment. Luckily I didn't drive far and noticed it and for the interim capped it and ran the car a bit to burn off some gas in the system and un capped it. I had searched for old posts and saw one where someone said don't cap it as it is a vent but can someone refresh my memory if this is a return line to the carb and should I just leave it since years past I never had an issue. I am looking to make a catch can for it just in case but need to find a way to correct this issue so I don't overfill the tank as the pump didn't stop and I stopped it when I noticed the pump kept going.

Sorry I am running twin sidedrafts if that matters in regards to a return line. 

Thank you

I had been having lock issues on the drivers side and finally bought a new lock set from Datsun Garage but after looking at my door lock cylinder and comparing the Datsun Garage kit I noticed a few issues. The OEM lock/One on the car had a lot of free play and also missing plastic holder for the rod connecting to it to control the locking mechanism. Also noticed the New lock kit has 4 tabs on it where the OEM one and the door has 3 tabs/notches so I would either have to modify the new lock to work or cut the door which I don't feel like doing. Also the new lock is not the type that can be rekeyed so I would have an extra key on my ring or would have to look at trying to rekey the trunk/hatch.( Not a major issue but more of preference). I ended up repairing my OEM lock cylinder by first going to the parts store and buying a Dorman Assorted rod kit and initially it helped with some free play but still wasn't better or perfect so next I got a horseshoe clip and put it between the lock cylinder and used the cotter pin to hold in place and it worked! Been testing it and so far the lock has been working and feels a lot better. Crisp locking.  Now for the Datsun Garage kit I am going to return it as I just don't feel comfortable of having to modify it or the door but if you are ok then the lock kit should work. Sorry not able to load vids but here are some pics. I assume others have had this issue so if anyone has another repair option would love to hear about it. For now I am looking for another oem lock as backup or a cylinder that can be rekeyed. 

Like the work you are doing to your wagon.