Metalguy Posted June 22 Author Report Share Posted June 22 The flanges are round on the t100, so drilling 45' out is certainly an option. It really surprised me when it wouldn't slip in, for sure. (Story of my life, lol) After trying, I took it out from under the truck, and compared, and was shocked to see the difference. 1 Quote Link to comment
Metalguy Posted July 4 Author Report Share Posted July 4 Also been working on the interior of this thing. I drew up some replacement duct rubber things, and printed them out of TPU. Also went through the heater box/tombstone thing, and cleaned it up, and painted it up. 1 Quote Link to comment
Metalguy Posted July 4 Author Report Share Posted July 4 Also been working on the dash, and dash pad. I know this has been a pain for about anyone who has had one of these trucks. Mine was so cracked and brittle that I just removed all of the foam, and decided I'll try to make one out of high density foam, and cover it in foam backed vinyl. 1 Quote Link to comment
Rustbin Posted July 4 Report Share Posted July 4 51 minutes ago, Metalguy said: Also been working on the dash, and dash pad. I know this has been a pain for about anyone who has had one of these trucks. Mine was so cracked and brittle that I just removed all of the foam, and decided I'll try to make one out of high density foam, and cover it in foam backed vinyl. I did that once in a Standard, the British car, it had nothing but the metal support which I covered with the foam then shaped the front edge and wrapped it with automotive vinyl. Your dash support has openings so I would suggest using ridged urethane as a base layer because it can be shaped then covered with a layer of fiberglass so it won't sag into the hollows and then you can contact cement the vinyl over it. A heat gun or hair dryer helps the vinyl stretch around contours, it helps to do a practice run before using the glue. 2 Quote Link to comment
Metalguy Posted July 12 Author Report Share Posted July 12 I got the dash finished today 5 Quote Link to comment
pidge Posted July 12 Report Share Posted July 12 Ummm that looks bloody good man. Did you do the stitching or dose the material come like that? -Pidge 1 Quote Link to comment
Metalguy Posted July 13 Author Report Share Posted July 13 Material came like that. I eliminated the factory lip that comes back towards the driver, and it sits flush. I am satisfied with the results. I used very stiff foam to cover the top, and contact cement, then trimmed to the edge. I cut off the two tabs that were on the ends, as they serve no purpose without the lip. I then covered it in this vinyl that has some batting on the back after I cut the holes for the ducts and ashtray in the foam. Once I had the vinyl how I liked it, I cut the holes for the ashtray in the vinyl by just cutting an X in the ashtray opening, and just a straight cut in the middle for the 4 vents. Installing the vents, and ashtray stretched the vinyl so it formed around very well. -----Metalguy 1 Quote Link to comment
Metalguy Posted July 13 Author Report Share Posted July 13 I have a question for the gurus. Is the engine bay painted black from the factory? Mine is black, but the truck is white. Just curious. 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted July 13 Report Share Posted July 13 Datsuns of that era were all body color in the engine bay and even on the vehicle underside. 1 Quote Link to comment
Metalguy Posted July 15 Author Report Share Posted July 15 Interesting. Mine has a black undercoating looking stuff in the engine bay, and down low in the cab. It's pretty old, so it looks like it was applied when new. Did dealerships apply stuff like that? Quote Link to comment
Metalguy Posted July 15 Author Report Share Posted July 15 I installed the new rear window seal this past weekend, and found my ebay seal was approx 1" too big. I cut it, and installed anyway. I ordered a new windshield seal from steel rubber that should be here Tuesday, same day as the replacement windshield. 1 Quote Link to comment
Metalguy Posted July 15 Author Report Share Posted July 15 I trial fitted the dash pieces together, and I like the look. 4 Quote Link to comment
Rustbin Posted July 16 Report Share Posted July 16 That dash pad looks really good! Maybe the door cards to carry the look through? 1 Quote Link to comment
Metalguy Posted July 16 Author Report Share Posted July 16 Thanks! I have black door cards but maybe I can add a stripe of this to carry it through. I have to make some kick panels, too, so I need to see what I can do there, as well. 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted July 17 Report Share Posted July 17 On 7/15/2024 at 12:43 PM, Metalguy said: I installed the new rear window seal this past weekend, and found my ebay seal was approx 1" too big. I cut it, and installed anyway. I ordered a new windshield seal from steel rubber that should be here Tuesday, same day as the replacement windshield. Where are the door seals from? I got some years ago that fit horribly, couldn't close the door when done... Quote Link to comment
Metalguy Posted July 17 Author Report Share Posted July 17 I bought a "complete" kit off ebay, and I think they are from Thailand? I have only tried the rear window seal, and worked around that, but havent tried the door seals, or wing window seals yet. I didn't feel like risking the front windshield seal, after seeing how far off the rear window seal was. My new seal is supposed to arrive today from steelrubber. I'll run sealant around them both after installation, to avoid any leaks. 1 Quote Link to comment
Metalguy Posted July 27 Author Report Share Posted July 27 I cut out some kick panels from some board I have laying around. Masonite? Anyway it's the same stuff the originals were made of. I'll cover them in the same material the dash has. 3 Quote Link to comment
Rustbin Posted July 28 Report Share Posted July 28 Hint; leave the vinyl 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch long where it meets the door to tuck under the pinch welt and fold it over every where else. It should go in after the carpet to show a clean line. Now if you have an industrial sewing machine you could do a center insert of the stitched vinyl on the door card. Either way it'll look good. 1 Quote Link to comment
Metalguy Posted July 28 Author Report Share Posted July 28 I got the kick panels done today. I also got the engine /tranny ready to be pulled tomorrow. I have a kind of silly question... Does anyone know where I can get the nuts that go on the stems of the stock AM radio? I need a pair, and don't know the right search criteria, as I keep coming up with corvette parts. 6 Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted July 28 Report Share Posted July 28 That material looks great. Nice work. 1 Quote Link to comment
Metalguy Posted August 2 Author Report Share Posted August 2 I have a question for the engine gurus. Mt 521 has a L20b in it, and I'd like to clean up the look of the manifold. It has what appears to be a coolant line integrated into it. I assume it is for carb heat in winter so you don't get carb ice... I do not have the stock carb, and have put a weber on it. What ill effects can I expect if I delete this coolant setup on the manifold? I live in the PNW, and the only carb ice I have experienced was on a old VW with dual solex carbs on a very humid winter day. This truck will most likely only be driven during nice weather. Thoughts? Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted August 2 Report Share Posted August 2 The coolant passage is also for keeping the intake cool in summer. Engine coolant is cooler than the heat coming off the exhaust. I used to delete that feature, but now I try to keep it if possible. For a cleaner look, get an earlier intake. The A46 intake is by far the cleanest and makes the most power too. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted August 3 Report Share Posted August 3 It also reduces hot spots at the rear and middle of the head. The hot water doesn't have to travel all the way to the thermostat housing to get out. L6 racing engines often drill and pipe the water out of their heads. https://www.godzillaraceworks.com/cooling/l6-cylinder-head-cooling-system-mod-kit 2 Quote Link to comment
fiveoneO Posted August 3 Report Share Posted August 3 I like to keep the coolant going to the intake, it keeps the temp at the manifold more consistent, which makes it easier to tune the carb. Quote Link to comment
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