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1970 521 restore, the truck I wanted in 1984!


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Well my kids moved out, so I finally got the truck I first test drove in 84. I was told to buy a 74 620 because it was newer and automatic. That 74 started my addiction to Nissans. 

 

So I found this truck on facebook. First time buying a vehicle on FB. Furthest away vehicle. It was 7hours 40min so I knew it was the one for me. 74 became my lucky number after driving the 74 620 for 5 years.

 

Is it OK to link to youtube? please delete if I violated some rules. I have big plans for the truck. It was in buckets and dissassembled for paint. Been to the junk yard 5 times already collecting parts. 

 

plans,.

 

disc brakes on all 4. - some parts collected

paint - color picked

rack n pinion - started

LEAF power steering - done

power brakes, dual circuit - done

3 point seat belts

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Then drive with stock l16 and do the rest of the upgrades as a rolling restoration. 

Then net big upgrade will be AC from a newer nissan. d40 or sentra or something. Anyone else do this?

 

This picture was 10 minutes after buying in Kansas at homedepot. zero bolts holding on cab or bed!!!!!!!!! 

 

This was the best drive home with any vehicle ever! Even better than my first new truck, the 2018 frontier! It towed like a dream!

 

 

 

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Looks cool. I’ll watch the rest of the vid later. A bag was off those hooks for the washer fluid. I see them on eBay from time to time. U-haul said I couldn’t tow my 521 with my frontier. Maybe a Canada thing up here with them. Good luck with the project sir. 
-Pidge

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Uhaul said that at first online also. But they inspected it and My D40 is rated at 6300lbs, 2wd v6. Trailer is 2300 empty. The surge brakes on these uhaul trailers are awesome. My truck has electric trailer brake controller. 

 

Thanks for the ebay find. I am focused on trying to get it on the road for a rolling restoration. Missing, hard fuel line, carb, rear brake hardware, tail lights, body mounts, seat belts. Just some minor things to pass inspection. I only have it titled in my name for now. Now registration without an inspection. 

 

 

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I daily my 72 521... and winter drive my 2012 frontier.... nice combo.....

 

I did pretty much everything you said also .... minus the rack...

 

As for the ac... no matter what you'll have to make a compressor bracket for the engine.... but the other components I'd recommend ditching the factory heater and get an aftermarket ac/heat combo unit....

I did a stand alone ac system in 521 and as soon as I got done my heater core started leaking.... I was lucky and had a spare but they are hard to find in good shape.... 

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Thanks, I daily my wife's leaf. Drive the frontier twice a week or when she is not home.

 

 So you did power steering? I have been searching for examples. cant find any with d21 booster. I made a custom bracket.

 

I want to use OEM heating ac system. I am willing to buy the crimp tool to make changes to OEM hoses if needed. But I noticed on my sons Versa, the whole system is nice and compact. Half the size of a d21 HVAC. 

 

my 620 body mounts just arrived!! Hopefully they fit and I can finish the steering this weekend. 

 

see part 2 for more details. 

 

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1 hour ago, NissanNut said:

Thanks, I daily my wife's leaf. Drive the frontier twice a week or when she is not home.

 

 So you did power steering? I have been searching for examples. cant find any with d21 booster. I made a custom bracket.

 

I want to use OEM heating ac system. I am willing to buy the crimp tool to make changes to OEM hoses if needed. But I noticed on my sons Versa, the whole system is nice and compact. Half the size of a d21 HVAC. 

 

my 620 body mounts just arrived!! Hopefully they fit and I can finish the steering this weekend. 

 

see part 2 for more details. 

 

No nothing to the steering..... 

I never felt the need.... 

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9 hours ago, Pounding Rox Truck Shop said:

Cool, another 521 in roughly the same condition as mine. Will be following.

Thanks! I have been following your channel. That 521 you have is nice!  

 

I just installed the 620 body mounts and they appear to be perfect for a 521! I don't have the bolts in yet. The center bushing needs a bigger hole is the only issue I have noticed. The cab is now level and not wobbly on the frame!😀 

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Thanks Mike. But I have been watching your videos for years. You make some real nice parts/kits! 

 

I just got the rack n pinion installed. Looks like it's going to work!! No bump steer! I cycled the suspension. truck still has not rolled yet. Still fighting the front inner bearing. It will go in all the way. 

 

 

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42 minutes ago, NissanNut said:

Thanks Mike. But I have been watching your videos for years. You make some real nice parts/kits! 

 

I just got the rack n pinion installed. Looks like it's going to work!! No bump steer! I cycled the suspension. truck still has not rolled yet. Still fighting the front inner bearing. It will go in all the way. 

 

 

What are you using for a rack n pinion?

 

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Thanks! I had a feeling it was something like that. I had the optional one on my 74, I bought from a 76 king cab when I bought its seats and belts. I don't have a glove box. No idea what it was made of. I guess I will make one from sheetmetal. 

 

I just bought some tube for the center console/ steering colum support.

 

see part 3.

 

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Thanks!! Yeah I love shoulder belts, I upgraded my 74 to king cab seats and belts back in the 87. 

 

Just installed a weber clone and tried to start it. but with no timing marks on cam or cover. I need to pull cover and set engine at TDC and find a timing marker. I had same issue with my 74. no timing marker on cover😂. I added one to right side on my l18. From what I have read the l16 marker is under the dizzy. I am getting backfires out the exhaust. The dual points is also very interesting with all the sensors on gas pedal and trans. I am going to convert to single points for now. 

 

part 4 should be done today on progress.   

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It's usual for L16/18s to have a pointer mounted on the (distributor side?) timing cover and multiple timing marks on the front pulley with the last one to pass the pointer being zero. L20Bs have a scale mounted on the alternator side timing cover and a single zero TDC timing mark on the rear most part of the front pulley.

 

To run single points just disconnect the second set, or remove them and check the timing when done. When done you can throw away the dual points relay and the carburetor switch. Timing is dependent on which set are being used, with the dual points being about 4 degrees retarded.

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1 hour ago, NissanNut said:

Is the l24/l26/l28 timing marker the same as the l16? I hope so because I just bought one on ebay. I noticed the l28e is totally different.

 

Thanks Mike!!  

Does what you bought look like this...?

Screenshot_20240314_140412_DuckDuckGo.thumb.jpg.0331372afa9168d1e7c47c5b367295e3.jpg

 

This an old picture of my L16.... you can see it barely... but looks the same to me... Screenshot_20240314_140331_Gallery.thumb.jpg.e19d04d1da572f6b425969f366eb6967.jpg

 

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my L16s used a pointer.

key is if the crank puley matches for the saw tooth timing plate you got. I seen them on left and right. side og block on some L20s

the sawtooth ones are for the later maybe late Japan spec motors.

 

really you need to see where the TDC of the piston is and see if corrolates with the new marker you have

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2 hours ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

my L16s used a pointer.

key is if the crank puley matches for the saw tooth timing plate you got. I seen them on left and right. side og block on some L20s

the sawtooth ones are for the later maybe late Japan spec motors.

 

really you need to see where the TDC of the piston is and see if corrolates with the new marker you have

Well I guess my L16 is not like the rest....

This a picture of mainers old L16 engine...

Yup just a pointer....

I think there was multiple notches in the pulley for the timing marks....

 

The saw tooth one should still work... just verify the TDC and zero on the pointer line up.....

 

20240314_165505.jpg

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Yes, that is the style I bought. Thanks!! I plan to pull motor anyway to paint the engine bay. So I will remove timing cover and set TDC and fix the marks in cam gear. Its so much easier to install dizzy gear when not in truck. 

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