Is it possible to build a effective overlander with a 1985 nissan 720 king cab 4x4

[hogie1270]

I want to try to build a light overlander out of a 1985 nissan 720 4x4 2.4z. Any advice 

[]2eDeYe]

Anything is possible, especially with those wheels. 

They always look awesome on a 720

[datzenmike]

That's an '85/'86 with an '81/'82 hood or what's that black thing?

 

Yeah that 4x4 has 4.11s in it which were crap with smaller stock tires (ok for gas) so even worse with something taller.

 

Find a 1980 720 long bed 4x4 which had front and rear 4.625 ratio differentials. Then it will crawl.

[bottomwatcher]

I used to live in the back of mine for months at a time. This was in the Columbia River gorge. I had my windsurfing gear on the roof and a mountain bike inside the camper shell with a half futon on a shelf. I used to disconnect my fuel line from the carb to fill my coleman stove. White gas was expensive and the stove seemed to run on unleaded just fine. The shell I had was one of the Hightopper type that gave extra room inside. The right shell is the key. My current overlander rig is a chevy but I am married now so I needed more room.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Let's take this apart and list what's important in an overlanding vehicle.

 

A - you need reliability, since you plan to be away from civilization for extended periods of time

B - self reliance for the same reason

C - durability

 

A - I'd swap to a motor with EFI. KA24E would be my go-to. It's simple and will damn near bolt in. Reliability also means having gone through every single mechanical system to make sure it's in good working condition. U-joints, fuel, cooling, electrical systems, springs, tie rod ends, bushings. Not saying everything has to be new, just in good working order.

 

B - Self reliance is two-fold. The vehicle should be able to support you and your gadgets. Heavy duty alternator with upgraded internals (more amps), solar panels, dual batteries, etc. Water tight camper shell with insulation. Cubby holes to store all of your stuff and be able to get to it easily. And have it stored securely for bumpy roads and trail use. Also, aside from the vehicle, you need life supporting reserves of food and water. Recovery equipment like a winch or come-a-long (rope-a-long is best), high lift jack, bottle jack, recovery straps, maybe even some traction boards, a shovel, axe, big ass crow bar, chainsaw, torch, on board air, on board welder, fuel cans, basic hand tools, etc. And then there's the whole spare parts thing. Full size spare wheel/tire, spare u-joints, balljoints and tie rod ends or possibly even a spare driveshaft. Spare alternator, water pump, fuel pump, hoses, etc.

 

C - Durability is simple. Built tough and protected. Bumpers, skid plates, rock sliders. the right choice of tires, etc.

 

Aside from all that, there are creature comforts like bright lighting, comfy seats, CB/HAM radio, window tinting, bobble head dolls, you name it.

 

I'm game! When can you drop it off?

[hogie1270]

1 hour ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

Let's take this apart and list what's important in an overlanding vehicle.

 

A - you need reliability, since you plan to be away from civilization for extended periods of time

B - self reliance for the same reason

C - durability

 

A - I'd swap to a motor with EFI. KA24E would be my go-to. It's simple and will damn near bolt in. Reliability also means having gone through every single mechanical system to make sure it's in good working condition. U-joints, fuel, cooling, electrical systems, springs, tie rod ends, bushings. Not saying everything has to be new, just in good working order.

 

B - Self reliance is two-fold. The vehicle should be able to support you and your gadgets. Heavy duty alternator with upgraded internals (more amps), solar panels, dual batteries, etc. Water tight camper shell with insulation. Cubby holes to store all of your stuff and be able to get to it easily. And have it stored securely for bumpy roads and trail use. Also, aside from the vehicle, you need life supporting reserves of food and water. Recovery equipment like a winch or come-a-long (rope-a-long is best), high lift jack, bottle jack, recovery straps, maybe even some traction boards, a shovel, axe, big ass crow bar, chainsaw, torch, on board air, on board welder, fuel cans, basic hand tools, etc. And then there's the whole spare parts thing. Full size spare wheel/tire, spare u-joints, balljoints and tie rod ends or possibly even a spare driveshaft. Spare alternator, water pump, fuel pump, hoses, etc.

 

C - Durability is simple. Built tough and protected. Bumpers, skid plates, rock sliders. the right choice of tires, etc.

 

Aside from all that, there are creature comforts like bright lighting, comfy seats, CB/HAM radio, window tinting, bobble head dolls, you name it.

 

I'm game! When can you drop it off?

I'm a diy kind of guy so this helps thank you

[frankendat]

5 hours ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

Let's take this apart and list what's important in an overlanding vehicle.

 

A - you need reliability, since you plan to be away from civilization for extended periods of time

B - self reliance for the same reason

C - durability

 

A - I'd swap to a motor with EFI. KA24E would be my go-to. It's simple and will damn near bolt in. Reliability also means having gone through every single mechanical system to make sure it's in good working condition. U-joints, fuel, cooling, electrical systems, springs, tie rod ends, bushings. Not saying everything has to be new, just in good working order.

 

B - Self reliance is two-fold. The vehicle should be able to support you and your gadgets. Heavy duty alternator with upgraded internals (more amps), solar panels, dual batteries, etc. Water tight camper shell with insulation. Cubby holes to store all of your stuff and be able to get to it easily. And have it stored securely for bumpy roads and trail use. Also, aside from the vehicle, you need life supporting reserves of food and water. Recovery equipment like a winch or come-a-long (rope-a-long is best), high lift jack, bottle jack, recovery straps, maybe even some traction boards, a shovel, axe, big ass crow bar, chainsaw, torch, on board air, on board welder, fuel cans, basic hand tools, etc. And then there's the whole spare parts thing. Full size spare wheel/tire, spare u-joints, balljoints and tie rod ends or possibly even a spare driveshaft. Spare alternator, water pump, fuel pump, hoses, etc.

 

C - Durability is simple. Built tough and protected. Bumpers, skid plates, rock sliders. the right choice of tires, etc.

 

Aside from all that, there are creature comforts like bright lighting, comfy seats, CB/HAM radio, window tinting, bobble head dolls, you name it.

 

I'm game! When can you drop it off?

That's a fine response to the question, nothing but truth from a man who knows. I haven't gone deep in the woods in a Datsun, but spent long stretches in the wilderness in a FJ40. I packed almost everything suggested by SM and a tent (but slept in the FJ on many occasions) For "on board air" I had this adapter that allowed use one of the cylinders of the engine as a pump. It wasn't fast, but it was effective. For a welder, I bought a kit that used the battery of a vehicle and some capacitors to create an arc welder. I never had to use it, which is good, because it seemed like a good method of frying systems or welders. For winter weekends, I found hanging a coleman lantern from the roll bar and cracking a window (along with the body heat of a couple of bundled up passengers) would keep the inside of the FJ above zero when outside was below.
A week away from civilization is a long time, but now with GPS, Sat phones and the like, are you ever "really" away? Maybe I don't understand exactly what differentiates "overlanding" from camping. I friend of mine drove his FJ40 from the North Pole (as close as you could get at least)a to the tip of South America that seems crazier and more dangerous than any of the times I have been in trouble in the back country. Was my friend "overlanding"? Another friend of mine bought one of those very overpriced "roof top" tents and had to modify it extensive after the first outing. If you go that route make sure to get one that will stand strong without the support of the vehicle. Otherwise you have to pack it up every morning and set it up every evening, which becomes lame in a hurry. 

[banzai510(hainz)]

get FJ60 /80

[datzenmike]

????

 

Patrol!!! for the win!

 

Back to 720 reality. Without much more ground clearance you'll be denied any really serious off road. Not saying you won't have fun. Steve ]2eDeYe gets 'out there' with his 4x4 620

 

Did anyone mention getting a really good winch, snatch blocks etc???

 

[bottomwatcher]

8 hours ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

A - I'd swap to a motor with EFI. KA24E would be my go-to. It's simple and will damn near bolt in. Reliability also means having gone through every

Ok I have this combo and "Bolt in" is disingenuous for the general redneck. Physically with redeyes  mounts the engine fits but the original trans is not up to the task. The oil pan needs a major mod and the wiring is far from plug and play even with the can am box. The cooling plumbing is a pain in the ass and my power steering is a mix of nissan and Honda parts and hoses. I love my rig but most end up putting up a kae swap for sale " just needs wiring". That being said if you are not trying to keep up with today's traffic a fresh head gasket and a webber on the Z engine is pretty reliable. If you have a healthy budget ask away. The KAE swap can be done but figure a 3k option.

[datzenmike]

The Z24 has the head gasket problem, but it is avoidable. Other than that it doesn't make a ton of power like a similar displacement KA BUT it has close to similar bottom end torque 130 Ft lbs. Like the 'bullet proof' Toypta R22 it doesn't make enough power to really hurt itself.

 

A Z24i is perhaps better as it's EFI and will run well at any angle even upside down.

 

I don't think the IFS is going to allow you to get into really challenging off-road conditions. Even later Toyota 4x4s are modified to place earlier solid axles on them for better ground clearance.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

15 hours ago, bottomwatcher said:

Ok I have this combo and "Bolt in" is disingenuous for the general redneck. Physically with redeyes  mounts the engine fits but the original trans is not up to the task. The oil pan needs a major mod and the wiring is far from plug and play even with the can am box. The cooling plumbing is a pain in the ass and my power steering is a mix of nissan and Honda parts and hoses. I love my rig but most end up putting up a kae swap for sale " just needs wiring". That being said if you are not trying to keep up with today's traffic a fresh head gasket and a webber on the Z engine is pretty reliable. If you have a healthy budget ask away. The KAE swap can be done but figure a 3k option.

 

18 hours ago, frankendat said:

That's a fine response to the question, nothing but truth from a man who knows. I haven't gone deep in the woods in a Datsun, but spent long stretches in the wilderness in a FJ40. I packed almost everything suggested by SM and a tent (but slept in the FJ on many occasions) For "on board air" I had this adapter that allowed use one of the cylinders of the engine as a pump. It wasn't fast, but it was effective. For a welder, I bought a kit that used the battery of a vehicle and some capacitors to create an arc welder. I never had to use it, which is good, because it seemed like a good method of frying systems or welders. For winter weekends, I found hanging a coleman lantern from the roll bar and cracking a window (along with the body heat of a couple of bundled up passengers) would keep the inside of the FJ above zero when outside was below.
A week away from civilization is a long time, but now with GPS, Sat phones and the like, are you ever "really" away? Maybe I don't understand exactly what differentiates "overlanding" from camping. I friend of mine drove his FJ40 from the North Pole (as close as you could get at least)a to the tip of South America that seems crazier and more dangerous than any of the times I have been in trouble in the back country. Was my friend "overlanding"? Another friend of mine bought one of those very overpriced "roof top" tents and had to modify it extensive after the first outing. If you go that route make sure to get one that will stand strong without the support of the vehicle. Otherwise you have to pack it up every morning and set it up every evening, which becomes lame in a hurry. 

Overlanding is basically long distance travel using the lonely roads. For instance, it is possible to travel from LA to Las Vegas on dirt roads. They aren't brutal, so it doesn't qualify as off-roading really, but I wouldn't do it in a Subaru.

17 hours ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

get FJ60 /80

The buy-in price has gone up drastically. I paid $7k for a rust bucket FJ60 last year, and recently bought one with nice-ish paint and almost 300k miles for $16k.

15 hours ago, bottomwatcher said:

Ok I have this combo and "Bolt in" is disingenuous for the general redneck. Physically with redeyes  mounts the engine fits but the original trans is not up to the task. The oil pan needs a major mod and the wiring is far from plug and play even with the can am box. The cooling plumbing is a pain in the ass and my power steering is a mix of nissan and Honda parts and hoses. I love my rig but most end up putting up a kae swap for sale " just needs wiring". That being said if you are not trying to keep up with today's traffic a fresh head gasket and a webber on the Z engine is pretty reliable. If you have a healthy budget ask away. The KAE swap can be done but figure a 3k option.

For a serious car guy, this swap could be done right inside of a month. We could talk for days about what makes a swap "right" and how to ease the task. My point was that if he wants to use this vehicle, and EFI was implemented, the KA24E is the easiest possible swap.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

2 hours ago, datzenmike said:

The Z24 has the head gasket problem, but it is avoidable. Other than that it doesn't make a ton of power like a similar displacement KA BUT it has close to similar bottom end torque 130 Ft lbs. Like the 'bullet proof' Toypta R22 it doesn't make enough power to really hurt itself.

 

A Z24i is perhaps better as it's EFI and will run well at any angle even upside down.

 

I don't think the IFS is going to allow you to get into really challenging off-road conditions. Even later Toyota 4x4s are modified to place earlier solid axles on them for better ground clearance.

For overlanding the 720 in stock-modified form would work fine. I might add a locker to the rear diff if he plans on some more serious overlanding routes. The only reason I might not use this particular 720 is the wheelbase. A truck with a longer wheelbase could handle more load and not suffer in terms of dynamics. A short wheelbase will feel heavier than a long one with the same load. A panic swerve with the short wheelbase when it's all  loaded up might be deadly.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

22 hours ago, hogie1270 said:

I'm a diy kind of guy so this helps thank you

I'd love to see you build it. They really are cool trucks.

[bottomwatcher]

10 hours ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

 

Overlanding is basically long distance travel using the lonely roads. For instance, it is possible to travel from LA to Las Vegas on dirt roads. They aren't brutal, so it doesn't qualify as off-roading really, but I wouldn't do it in a Subaru.

The buy-in price has gone up drastically. I paid $7k for a rust bucket FJ60 last year, and recently bought one with nice-ish paint and almost 300k miles for $16k.

For a serious car guy, this swap could be done right inside of a month. We could talk for days about what makes a swap "right" and how to ease the task. My point was that if he wants to use this vehicle, and EFI was implemented, the KA24E is the easiest possible swap.

Got it. I made my KAE run on a stand before swapping it in. Got a bunch of codes on the ecm. No Worries glad the computer told me what the issues were and made the truck issue free.I took 10 days doing the swap. Not for the feight of heart. But the truck starts instantly at the turn of the key. Never back to carbs for me.

[frankendat]

On 2/18/2024 at 10:14 AM, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

 

 

On 2/18/2024 at 10:14 AM, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

 

Overlanding is basically long distance travel using the lonely roads. For instance, it is possible to travel from LA to Las Vegas on dirt roads. They aren't brutal, so it doesn't qualify as off-roading really, but I wouldn't do it in a Subaru.

 

I know some of the BDR Idaho group,  but I don't have the balance to ride with them. I guess this would be motorcycle overlanding. https://ridebdr.com/