Turbo KA24DE Swapped 620

[Louis]

Greetings. For those with KA24DET swapped 620s, what turbo manifolds and turbos are you running?

 

I just finished my short block (89.5 pistons, forged rods, clevite/acl bearings, and arp bolts). My cylinder head is currently at the machine shop for some mild mods and Kelford stage 1 cams install.

 

For my turbo set-up, I want to use a Tomei bottom mount turbo manifold with a 2871r turbo. Anyone running something similar? What about fitment issues? Would I have space to accommodate my A/C? (after modifying my a/c bracket)

 

Thanks

[paradime]

I've seen the IRS Performance mani on 510s, 521s and 620s. It sits tight along side the the block, but requires a custom down pipe and other mods to clear the steering linkage.

 

 

 

https://www.isrperformance.com/isr-version-2-bottom-mount-turbo-manifold-nissan-ka24de/

[UnderControl]

Basic log manifold, I believe it's a JGS, but was used and as was.

 

 

 

Gt3071r with the compact compressor housing option. Using Redeye's engine mount required only minor clearancing. 

[Icehouse]

That truck is going to roll out!  Hope it has a LSD.  

[Louis]

On 11/24/2023 at 4:03 PM, UnderControl said:

Basic log manifold, I believe it's a JGS, but was used and as was.

 

 

 

Gt3071r with the compact compressor housing option. Using Redeye's engine mount required only minor clearancing. 

Really nice!

[Louis]

On 11/24/2023 at 4:03 PM, UnderControl said:

Basic log manifold, I believe it's a JGS, but was used and as was.

 

 

 

Gt3071r with the compact compressor housing option. Using Redeye's engine mount required only minor clearancing. 

Why the Excessive intake and not the OEM?

[Louis]

On 11/24/2023 at 2:10 PM, paradime said:

I've seen the IRS Performance mani on 510s, 521s and 620s. It sits tight along side the the block, but requires a custom down pipe and other mods to clear the steering linkage.

 

 

 

https://www.isrperformance.com/isr-version-2-bottom-mount-turbo-manifold-nissan-ka24de/

I tried locating a new Tomei turbo manifold without success. So I'm considering either the ISR V3 or the Future Fab bottom mount manifolds.

[UnderControl]

14 hours ago, Louis said:

Why the Excessive intake and not the OEM?

Because it looks cool and got it cheap.

[Sublime27]

because if your swapping might as well go all out right lol an intake seems like a easy upgrade from oem.

[paradime]

It's more than just cool looks for sure Louis. The narrow long run oem manifold is designed to meet emissions standards for street use. It's made for low end torque on a NA engine that tops out at 6K rpm.

 

The ideal setup for higher performance forced induction applications is a tapered plenum for even distribution across the cylinders, with short runners for improved airflow and throttle response. I have a GT-X 2867R on my SR20 510 and I'm convinced that thing's got some kind of insane voodoo magic spell on it. With a 2871 on a KA, you'll have ridiculous low end torque at 2K rpm, and more freight train power up to 7K than you can imagine. You might need 2 LSDs and a diaper dispencer under the dash of your 620 to drive it though. Please keep the picts and updates coming.

Edited December 6, 2023 by paradime

[Louis]

Thanks for the info. The reason I asked is because I read in several forums that the OEM intake is usable for turbo apps (as corrected, not for a high reving engine)

This my first KA24DE and turbo build. Actually, I'm building this engine for a 620 that I don't have yet.

[paradime]

Around here, I tend to be the voice of objective analysis in maters of passion, aka Mr. Buzzkill. If you push enough boost through an oem mani it will work, but far from ideal.

 

Research is always the best investment you can make, but I'm sure you know, it's easy to go down a hole and find nothing but a bunch of rat shit. Pay attention to your power goals, target boost level, rpm, and act within those perimeters. That said, I'm an SR guy not a KA expert by any stretch. I've learned a lot about forced induction from my own experience, but I don't want to lead you down the wrong hole with my ignorance.

[UnderControl]

No LSD here, although not sure I'd want to blow up a unicorn h190 LSD anyway. My truck stays remarkably straight while blowing a tire off through 3rd though.

 

Allow me to be the bringer backer of buzz. Stock intake would be fine for far more power than most of the 620 builds I've seen (mine very much included) should ever have. 

 

The excessive manifold simplifies a lot of things, but throttle body to radiator clearance is a problem. Excessive makes an elbow to fix this. Really no other fitment issues.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Since we're on the subject, get a Toyota 4x4 pickup rear axle and swap it in. There are many many aftermarket parts available for the Toyota axles. Lockers, limited slips, r&p sets, brake kits... it's a viable swap for someone who wants to make power.

 

Early 79-85 axles were narrower than the later "IFS" axles, and I thought I remember that the early axle width is almost the same as a Nissan axle width.

 

The two downsides to the early axle are the brakes, which are smaller than later, and the diff bearings, whcih are also smaller, but you can swap in a "V6" diff for cheap. Hell, you can even buy aftermarket V6 diff housings.

Edited December 8, 2023 by Stoffregen Motorsports

[frankendat]

28 minutes ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

Since we're on the subject, get a Toyota 4x4 pickup rear axle and swap it in. There are many many aftermarket parts available for the Toyota axles. Lockers, limited slips, r&p sets, brake kits... it's a viable swap for someone who wants to make power.

 

Early 79-85 axles were narrower than the later "IFS" axles, and I thought I remember that the early axle width is almost the same as a Nissan axle width.

 

The two downsides to the early axle are the brakes, which are smaller than later, and the diff bearings, whcih are also smaller, but you can swap in a "V6" diff for cheap. Hell, you can even buy aftermarket V6 diff housings.

Do you think the early Toyota axles are superior to the Nissan HB233?

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Yes, because they are so inexpensive to build. You can build an 8" Toyota rear with a Detroit True-Trac LSD and custom gearset for $1200. You can't even buy the Nissan LSD for that.

 

The size of the 233 is larger, more like a Toyota 9.5, but the cost is massive when compared to the Toyota 8". For what it's worth, I have run Toyota 8" diffs with V8 power. As long as you don't drive like an ass, they hold up fine.

[]2eDeYe]

3 hours ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

Since we're on the subject, get a Toyota 4x4 pickup rear axle and swap it in. There are many many aftermarket parts available for the Toyota axles. Lockers, limited slips, r&p sets, brake kits... it's a viable swap for someone who wants to make power.

 

Early 79-85 axles were narrower than the later "IFS" axles, and I thought I remember that the early axle width is almost the same as a Nissan axle width.

 

The two downsides to the early axle are the brakes, which are smaller than later, and the diff bearings, whcih are also smaller, but you can swap in a "V6" diff for cheap. Hell, you can even buy aftermarket V6 diff housings.

They also come in the 2wd trucks as an even narrower option.
They have the same 5 lug pattern as the later Nissan stuff and the same axle splines as the truck/4runner.
 

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Some of the 2wd axles have a smaller diff.

[Wildcat Walker]

On 12/8/2023 at 12:19 PM, frankendat said:

Do you think the early Toyota axles are superior to the Nissan HB233?

Devils Advocate here...     

 

No. The H233 is larger, has several available gear ratios, and is plentiful in almost every junkyard. You can usually pick up a complete axle for $50-200.  If you need to narrow, Dutchman Axles provides a re-splining service, and the factory heat treatment is deep enough that the new splines will be as hard as the original, (although cut and not roll formed) . Narrowing the housing is not hard, I made up a set of alignment pucks to do mine, and after welding there was no alignment issues. I cut my axles down almost 5" each. Yes the ring and pinions are not cheap compared to the Yotas, but you can sell the used stock set on Ebay to re-coup about half the cost of the new ring and pinion. 

 

You can read more about using the H233 here: LSD options for h190 - Page 3 - Drivetrain - Ratsun Forums

 

As for your KA24DE build, the head will be your choke point. If you plan to make any real power, a quality porting job and larger valves will be required. Also, I noticed you have your block back already and there is no front cover attached. If the shop decked your block without the front cover your going to have issues with the head gasket in that area. You did a 0.5mm overbore, I hope the machine shop had a torque plate, last one I did, they did not and to make it was about $1200. 

 

Good luck with the build and keep us updated! 

 

[Louis]

2 hours ago, Wildcat Walker said:

Devils Advocate here...     

 

No. The H233 is larger, has several available gear ratios, and is plentiful in almost every junkyard. You can usually pick up a complete axle for $50-200.  If you need to narrow, Dutchman Axles provides a re-splining service, and the factory heat treatment is deep enough that the new splines will be as hard as the original, (although cut and not roll formed) . Narrowing the housing is not hard, I made up a set of alignment pucks to do mine, and after welding there was no alignment issues. I cut my axles down almost 5" each. Yes the ring and pinions are not cheap compared to the Yotas, but you can sell the used stock set on Ebay to re-coup about half the cost of the new ring and pinion. 

 

You can read more about using the H233 here: LSD options for h190 - Page 3 - Drivetrain - Ratsun Forums

 

As for your KA24DE build, the head will be your choke point. If you plan to make any real power, a quality porting job and larger valves will be required. Also, I noticed you have your block back already and there is no front cover attached. If the shop decked your block without the front cover your going to have issues with the head gasket in that area. You did a 0.5mm overbore, I hope the machine shop had a torque plate, last one I did, they did not and to make it was about $1200. 

 

Good luck with the build and keep us updated! 

 

Yep, forgot the front cover. Thanks (yes, .5 overbore)