AB's 521 build

[521miscreant]

I bought this last November.  I has a post about whether I should try to swap a KA or go with a L motor.  For now I am putting that on hold but I wanted to start a clean post for my build.  I have been busy.  Things took longer because the weather was unusually wet last spring.  I dismantled the truck completely and striped the frame down with a wire wheel and sandblaster, repainted everything in 3 coats of frame paint and I am now starting to put it back together.  There was years of caked on junk that had to be removed.  For now, I am planning to build it back basically stock, so I can drive it a bit, but I will probably end up doing some more significant modifications as time goes on.  Trying to decide if I do lowering block and re-index in the meantime.  It would be easy now.  This is a project for me with no timeline.  Anyways, here we go!

 

 

[NC85ST]

It looks like you started with a really clean truck. Nice work. I, personally, would go with disc brakes on the front, especially while it’s that easy to get to.

[521miscreant]

I ordered the kit from Silvermine that doesn't have the caliper that sticks out way past the face of the disc.  I got some grey hairs trying to stop this thing when I drove it home.  The floors are solid so I can't Fred Flintstone it in a pinch.  

[mainer311]

Also, while you have easy access to the steering column, I would consider bobbing it a few inches. Makes the cab feel much less cramped.

[521miscreant]

3 hours ago, mainer311 said:

Also, while you have easy access to the steering column, I would consider bobbing it a few inches. Makes the cab feel much less cramped.

How would I go about that?  Do mean cut it shorter and then have the end machined with the splines?  I fit pretty good but would be nice If I could move my seat a little further forward so the Vegas can be pumpin".  I'm one notch away form all the way back as it is now.  

[mainer311]

I believe the process is to cut the shaft somewhere in the middle, and then have it welded back together. The housing needs to get shortened the same amount.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

I did a bit of a tech writeup on column mods. Mine used an exposed steering shaft, but the top end where the wheel mounts is all the same -

 

[521miscreant]

I'm not comfortable trying to weld on front clips or anything like that.  I probably will check around to see if I can find a machine shop or metal place that can take a couple inches off the steering column.  That would actually make it a little roomier in the cab and decrease to odds of me being turned into a skewer in an accident.  I bought a mig/tig/stick welder, which I plan to use for some of the body repair when I get to that stage, but I wouldn't want to weld frame/chassis stuff on my car. I will try to get my welding skills up...but that will take some time.  Maybe I can find a friend I don't like and offer to help them weld something.  ☠️

 

By the way...was reading on another chain where some of the old schoolers on here were talking about bending the brake lines with their hands (and a can of peas).  I was about to lose my $%#& trying to use a bending tool...was able to use just my hands for most of it and the bending tool a couple times and finish the line on the rear axle in about 20 minutes.  There is a lot of value from those contributing here.  I appreciate it.

[thisismatt]

Might look into a 720 column swap also

[521miscreant]

14 minutes ago, thisismatt said:

Might look into a 720 column swap also

Will that just both in without mods?  Was wondering, as I think they would have the collapsible steering columns.  Not sure if anybody has done that.  

[mrbigtanker]

1 hour ago, 521miscreant said:

I'm not comfortable trying to weld on front clips or anything like that.  I probably will check around to see if I can find a machine shop or metal place that can take a couple inches off the steering column.  That would actually make it a little roomier in the cab and decrease to odds of me being turned into a skewer in an accident.  I bought a mig/tig/stick welder, which I plan to use for some of the body repair when I get to that stage, but I wouldn't want to weld frame/chassis stuff on my car. I will try to get my welding skills up...but that will take some time.  Maybe I can find a friend I don't like and offer to help them weld something.  ☠️

 

By the way...was reading on another chain where some of the old schoolers on here were talking about bending the brake lines with their hands (and a can of peas).  I was about to lose my $%#& trying to use a bending tool...was able to use just my hands for most of it and the bending tool a couple times and finish the line on the rear axle in about 20 minutes.  There is a lot of value from those contributing here.  I appreciate it.

Man your up north Cut the column  down 3", I don't know if your a little guy or big guy but it gives you gut room however it brings steering wheel lower as well. If your not going crazy keep the gear box and just cut it. the outer sleeve you cut at bottom at steering box flange and internal actual at bottom as well. Maybe @DARIN 510 can help you out.

[gh0stwerx76]

26 minutes ago, mrbigtanker said:

Man your up north Cut the column  down 3", I don't know if your a little guy or big guy but it gives you gut room however it brings steering wheel lower as well. If your not going crazy keep the gear box and just cut it. the outer sleeve you cut at bottom at steering box flange and internal actual at bottom as well. Maybe @DARIN 510 can help you out.

Lol dude prob wants it to actually get done. Do it yourself. @521miscreant its very easy , unbolt the column flange, remove it, get 2" masking tape and go around the shaft overlapping the tape even so you have 2 very even lines. once you have made the two cuts do a slight bevel on both halves. take 2 pair of vice grips and clamp a piece of 1/2'' x 1/2"  to the shaft to hold it from moving from the weld heat and make 3 good tacks. remove angle iron and weld in circumference. repeat on column tube with same tape. donezo! I sure hope you saved your front bearings bro cuz if not you may need to get ahold of @mklotz70 for 620 bearing adaptors. Also if memory serves your brake lines are still SAE end fittings so you'll likely need to convert to metric for the new brakes, confirm before cutting anything on the lines tho.

 

[521miscreant]

I've still got the bearings.  Everything was bagged and tagged when it came off.  I'll cut the column.  @gh0stwerx76 & @mrbigtanker you're right.  As far as welds go it shouldn't be to complicated.  I think I was just head faking myself a little.  The benefit will be worth it.  

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

14 hours ago, 521miscreant said:

Will that just both in without mods?  Was wondering, as I think they would have the collapsible steering columns.  Not sure if anybody has done that.  

No. The stock 521 column is attached to the box, while the 720 column is attached to the firewall and uses and exposed shaft to the box. You will see in that thread I posted the differences. The column I built for my 320 used pieces from both and a plate that I cut and welded to the 320 column to mount it to the firewall.

 

I believe the 720 had an optional tilt column, which might be cool, if you're into that look (I'm not). But there would be considerable machining, fiddling, welding to get it to work.

Edited July 30, 2023 by Stoffregen Motorsports

[mainer311]

Using Nickel-Copper brake lines comes in handy, as they’re easy to bend by hand, and they won’t rust. That’s what I’ve been using.

[521miscreant]

It took me a few rounds to learn some tricks, but I finally got the rear axle brake line done.  At first I started with too much material above the flaring tool so the flare was to big, then I didn't have enough material to fit the coupler on and still have enough to put in the flaring tool.  I finally put the coupler on and did the flare for the starting end  and then did the bends until I got to the end and did the last flare. This also worked much better than trying to bend the line to match the old line off the truck. Its not as pretty as I want it to be, so I might redo it at some point, but it works.  I think I went from apprentice to journeyman level at some point today.  Y'all should buy some stock in the company that makes these brake lines.  I still have more to go.  

 

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Here's another tip - when doing flares, don't crush them all the way with the tool. Leave a bit of sqush left for the nut to tighten on, which will help form the flare to the fitting it's up against.

 

I use bending tools, but mostly I use various sizes of pipe as mandrels to bend the tubing over. You can't simply bend the tubing over it though. You need to sort of roll it as you go, or it will kink. What I mean is, as you're bending, let it slide along the tubing.

 

Most tubing now is copper-nickel. The green stuff you buy at NAPA is just coated with a green plastic covering, which adds to the corrosion protection.

[gh0stwerx76]

I use the spring looking tool that slides over the line so it can't blow out the line when bending

 

https://mccombssupply.com/sprint-type-tube-bender-set-mastercool-1-4-5-16-3-8-1-2-5-8/

[521miscreant]

On 8/3/2023 at 9:46 PM, gh0stwerx76 said:

I use the spring looking tool that slides over the line so it can't blow out the line when bending

 

https://mccombssupply.com/sprint-type-tube-bender-set-mastercool-1-4-5-16-3-8-1-2-5-8/

Does that work well with Steel lines?  I'm gonna redo the fuel lines too once I decide what I am doing for and engine.  I'm thinking the fuel lines should be steel.  

[521miscreant]

This got did today.  

 

And now onto the belly of the beast.  Plan is to get that painted and while the paint cures I can finish up the chassis stuff.   

 

Underneath the grease/oil, the metal is completely rust free.  

[pidge]

Nice project, what brake parts were you using for that?

-Pidge

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Don't get fooled into using aluminum for fuel lines. Sure it bends easy, but I'm thinking long term. Slight abrasions and corrosion will kill it over the long term. Any slight vibration can cause it to crack too.

 

I thought I'd try using a roll of the green covered steel hard line a couple years ago, but the roller that you use to straighten it actually crushed it into a less than round shape. Maybe I was too forceful? I have now gone back to the 6' straight sections you get at the hardware store. If 6' isn't long enough, I take that opportunity to install a fuel filter at that spot, or a bulkhead fitting and bracket to give it some rigidity.

[521miscreant]

2 hours ago, pidge said:

Nice project, what brake parts were you using for that?

-Pidge

This is the Silvermine kit.  I got the cheaper one that is not Wilwood.  It's based on D21 brakes and they send you remanufactured calipers.  With the Wilwood ones the calipers stick out 1 inch past the wheel mounting surface, so wheel fitment can be tricky.  These only stick out about 1/4 inch..so will be easier to fit a wheel and it is a dual piston caliper so should be a big improvement on stopping power.  

[NC85ST]

Nice work. Looking good.

[mainer311]

I just bought a 2011 Nissan Armada as my backup family-mobile, and all of the aluminum lines on it are cracked. HVAC, power steering, you name it. They’re all leaking.