1979 B310 Hatch Project

[brantrogers]

Hey guys, so Ive officially started my B310 Hatch project. Ive got the A14 stripped down to the bare block and began the cleaning process. The block and head seam to both be in great shape so I'm really excited to get this thing up and going again after its rebuild. I'm looking to gain some power  in my rebuild, ive already purchased a Weber 32/36 but that's about it so far. I'm looking to end with something that's fun and peppy yet still reliable enough to daily. Ive considered a few different routes to go but cant seem to make up my mind on what specific internals to choose for upgrades. Whats your guys' thoughts on what engine components to use that will get me more power, but wont cost me all my daily reliability. I'm kinda open to anything, as long as it includes keeping original A14 block.

[datzenmike]

The weakest point on stock engines is probably the rod bolts. Get some ARP ones.

 

If affordable measure the exhaust pipe diameter and have a new system bent in something 1/4" larger. If pipes are in two good a shape skip this but definitely a lower restriction muffler, but not a see through ricer fart cannon. Some kind if turbo muffler. This will help with the breathing as you've already up graded the carburetor.

 

A cam would be next, something mild and with more lift that can use the capability of the larger carburetor and free flowing exhaust. Perhaps complimented with new stiffer valve springs.

 

If you have a Dremel, gasket match the manifolds and head ports.

 

 

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Cam and valve springs will help. There aren't many shops out there who know about A series cams, so you may have to call around. Calcams or Dima Elgin would be the obvious first choices, since they have been doing Datsun stuff for decades.

 

Steve Epperly of Z Therapy raced A powered GT cars for years, so he may have something laying around or be able to point you in the right direction.

 

Nissan Motorsports used to make a nice header for that motor. If you can find one, it would be worth fitting.

 

The intake plenum on those manifolds is tiny. If you have access to a mill and a TIG welder, you can mill out the center section of the intake and mill a Z car DGV adapter to fit in between, then weld it in place. Double the plenum size and the added bonus of the correct DGV bolt pattern so no adapter needed.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Oh, have the distributor re-curved. J Schlemmer of Advanced Distributors can do it for about $150. Rebello too, but they are busy with race stuff this time of year.

[brantrogers]

Thanks for the input datsunmike. I've read through several different peoples builds and have seen how little or far you can take this engine. So this helps to others thoughts on where to start. Time to start shopping.

    Do you think the Nismo double valve springs are too much for a mild cam grind or would it be better to stick with a single spring option? And since I have the engine stripped down to the block whats your opinion on having cylinders bored? If there in spec should I just hone them and call it day or should i bore them for better longevity? Originally I was planning on stepping up bore to 78mm, but when I got it all taken apart I was pleasantly surprised that the cylinder walls were all in good shape, so I started having second thoughts about it. However Im kind of a go big or go home person.

[brantrogers]

Ok Stoffregen Motorsports Ill check into Calcams or Dima Elgin  for cam stuff. I know its hard to find people around me who have experience with these datsun's, mostly just Z cars. I guess I'm just to poor to be one of the cool boys with the 240 z's. Hehe, funny enough most people who I talk to about the Sunny are always like "My mom used to have one of those". If everyone's mom drove one, it sure would be nice to see more of them around so I could finish my interior. I guess they all rusted away.

[datzenmike]

The A14/15 share the same bore. Look around for an old beat up A15 core and grab the crankshaft and rods. This would give you a 100cc displacement increase. And the longer stroke would increase bottom end torque. It wouldn't rev as high but the torque is what you feel every day.

 

The A14 bore would have to be carefully measured with a professional tool in three places down the bore (0.5", 1.5" and 2.5" and two positions at each that are 180 apart. This will show if taper and oval are out of spec. Measuring at the top of the bore will always be perfect as the rings don't go all the way to the top.

 

I think I would bore to the max 1.0mm over or 0.5mm removed from the wall and be done with it.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Actually, I like the other direction - A14 bore with A12 crank. This is what they used to call and A12A. Revved to the moon and had big bore so bigger valves could fit.

 

I would use the double springs. They will last longer. But the right answer is - whatever gives you the correct seat pressure. Bigger cam needs more seat pressure.

 

Remember, give Z Therapy a call. He's a fount of A series wisdom.

 

Lastly, @Tom1200 just posted in another thread about Delta cams. I forgot about them.

 

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Just now, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

Remember, give Z Therapy a call. He's a fount of A series wisdom.

 

Or just pick @Tom1200's brain.

[brantrogers]

Thanks I will check out that tread Stoffregen Motorsports.    And datzenmike Ill keep my eye out for any A15 cores that show up locally, and maybe steal their bottom end, or keep it for a future project.

 

Any down sides to keeping stock 4 speed Manual. Ive thought about upgrading but kind of like idea of keeping the original trans. Is there any popular ways to sup it up?

 

[KELMO]

15 hours ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

Or just pick @Tom1200's brain.

Tom only pops in here once in a while but definitely has his poop in a group when it come to "A" motors. You could search out his posts.

There are a couple others but name escape me ATM.

 

Not me though, I just like taking "A" motors apart and putting them back together cuz they're so easy.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

18 hours ago, brantrogers said:

Thanks I will check out that tread Stoffregen Motorsports.    And datzenmike Ill keep my eye out for any A15 cores that show up locally, and maybe steal their bottom end, or keep it for a future project.

 

Any down sides to keeping stock 4 speed Manual. Ive thought about upgrading but kind of like idea of keeping the original trans. Is there any popular ways to sup it up?

 

The stock 4 speed is not a horrible trans, but it is not as strong as the "dogleg" 63 series transmission. The 63A uses a larger input spline and, with the exception being the bellhousing,  is otherwise identical to the ones found behind L motors.

 

http://datsun1200.com/modules/mediawiki/index.php?title=63-Series_Transmission

 

Not much you can do to a stock trans except blueprint it. Set the stops (so it doesn't over-shift) and make sure the bearings are in good shape. Some racers used to knock off some of the engagement teeth to make them shift faster, but the juice ain't worth the squeeze.

[Tom1200]

I'm trying to be here more........

 

My standard answers is usually;

 

Largest bore possible (A14 will go to 79mm). Either custom pistons or Mazda 1.6 pistons have the correct pin height and can be milled but the rod small ends need to be bore to 20mm (stock is 19mm).  The stock crank and rods are good to 9000RPM so don't even worry about those.

 

With that said if the bores are good and you have the low dish pistons just run them. You can get a .6mm or .8mm thick head gasket to up the compression slightly.

 

Clean up the ports; the valve seats protrude into the port by as much as 1.5mm. I port my heads with nothing more than a dremel. I simply clean up the bowl area. 

 

Camshaft; Delta Cams 278 grind is 280 duration and .420 lift. I use that in my A15 race motor and it's very tractable. You will need dual valve springs. Isky cams still sells the springs and you can get the dual valve spring seats & retainers from B-Projects on Ebay.

 

The weber 32/36 is fine for a street motor.

 

Lastly get a header and a run a 1.75" - 2" exhaust.

 

 

 

All that will about about 15-20hp.  

[Tom1200]

I forgot bout the trans...............the standard 4 speed is fine. It's only downside is lack of overdrive/5th gear so you'll be running about 4000RPM on the freeway. As these motors rev like mad it's not a big deal.

[brantrogers]

Thanks Tom1200, ill look into that cam profile. Its nice to know that the crank and rods are fine.

 

 

[brantrogers]

Hey does anybody know of a good replacement for the stock rear bench seat in the B310 hatchback. Mine Datsun didn't have the seat when I bought the car, so I'm looking for a replacement. I have black interior, and I cannot find a rear seat anywhere. I'm not opposed to finding a rear seat from another car that fits, I'm just not sure about which candidates will fit the best or whats been used in other builds. I still have the two factory folding front seats, and am planning on having them reupholstered. So

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Custom low back buckets?

[Crashtd420]

Being the back seat I'd think building the whole thing would be pretty easy.... 

 

You could make a fiberglass puck and ask them to add and shape the foam and cover it.  

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Yeah, completely up to someone's interpretation, and easy to make from scratch.

[brantrogers]

Just curious what set of dual valve springs you guys might recommend for the aforementioned (Delta Cams 278 grind is 280 duration and .420 lift). Ive seen many places where people have been recommending the isky cams springs but I am having a hard time figuring out exactly which springs they are referring to or if they are still available. Bprojects on ebay still has one set of nismo dual springs available would they be a good choice?

[iceman510]

Isky catalog shows the info below.  I'm not personally an A-engine guy, so not certain this listing applies to A14.  455D show still available on their website, but not the JA-006.

 

https://iskycams.com/downloads/Isky-Import-Catalog.pdf