'73 240z - Project Build

[demo243]

Fuel rail round 1

 

 

Missed one fitting- so waiting on a M14 to -6an for the right side so I can 180 loop it and run the return line back along the rail. Port on the upper right side is for a pressure gauge. May eventually utilize it for a electronic sender and run and in cabin gauge, just cause…

 

Hope it seals! All the fittings came with aluminum washers, but I may have to swap them for o-rings. The ends are not the flattest or my tapping wasn’t straight…

 

If it doesn’t work then no big deal… I accidentally double/triple ordered the rails so I have two extras. Oops…

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

If you use o-rings, be sure to chamfer the holes a bit.

 

There are o-ring sealing washers. Best of both worlds - https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ear-178006erl?seid=srese1&gclid=CjwKCAiAi6uvBhADEiwAWiyRdpSn4FuHFOSPFK5Bswlv80AesWg6bvkmq7AP6an0s7_LZiR_9hreuhoCtIkQAvD_BwE

[demo243]

33 minutes ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

If you use o-rings, be sure to chamfer the holes a bit.

 

There are o-ring sealing washers. Best of both worlds - https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ear-178006erl?seid=srese1&gclid=CjwKCAiAi6uvBhADEiwAWiyRdpSn4FuHFOSPFK5Bswlv80AesWg6bvkmq7AP6an0s7_LZiR_9hreuhoCtIkQAvD_BwE

Oooo those might be the ticket - just for extra piece of mind.

 

I did chamfer the holes but seems like that tap took away most of that.

 

Just going to have to pressure test it and see how it does.

 

Next is some longer hoses from the carbs and figuring out mounting the rail. I’m thinking a couple L brackets of sort utilizing the linkage mounts on the manifold. Just need to remember to leave clearance for the vacuum port for the booster (seems like a m12-1.5 threads in there nicely? But I don’t know if that truely is the spec). I may just plug that anyway and do a booster delete. I like the manual brakes on the 510- I know it takes more effort, but it’s consistent.

[demo243]

Anyone got any suggestions for a 1/2” bore hone- needs to be atleast 12” long so I can reach the middle of the rail, want to clean up the center after drilling it. Maybe a gun barrel hone? 
 

Everyone I’ve found is only 7-8” and won’t reach the middle.

[Crashtd420]

4 hours ago, demo243 said:

Anyone got any suggestions for a 1/2” bore hone- needs to be atleast 12” long so I can reach the middle of the rail, want to clean up the center after drilling it. Maybe a gun barrel hone? 
 

Everyone I’ve found is only 7-8” and won’t reach the middle.

What about a long rod....

Cut a slot in the end then insert some sand paper and roll it around the end ... 

Basically making a small cylinder....

[demo243]

1 hour ago, Crashtd420 said:

What about a long rod....

Cut a slot in the end then insert some sand paper and roll it around the end ... 

Basically making a small cylinder....

Yes! I’ll try that tomorrow. I still have the 10mm rod I used for mock up, should give me just enough room to add some sand paper. I just want to make sure there are no errant aluminum pieces that end up in the carbs.

 

Trying to figure out how I’m going to mount or support the rail now.

 

Also need to figure out what the thread is on the linkage mounting points on this TWM manifold. Was thinking about using them as part of the mount- but can’t figure out what thread they are. Tried every bolt and tap and thread chaser I have an none of them fit!

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

There is such a thing as a drill bit extension -

 

[demo243]

Yea that would work.

 

Tried crash’s idea and seemed to work pretty well.

 

Spent far to much time trying to figure out a mount for the rail and ultimately came up with a couple simple brackets down to the manifold. Just need to order some proper p-clips to secure the return fuel hose and the rail should be set!  Hope it holds pressure! I did end up getting some of those oring washers. Ordered from Belmetric and they showed up the next day! I guess they have a location here in MA.

 

Still need to order the metal for the heat shied too.

 

Waiting on the first round of jets to show up to. Going off the suggestions of the Triumph guy I spoke with. Will start there and see where they are and then order more for tuning.

 

All my replacement brake stuff showed up this weekend too so just need some warm weather and quality driveway time. 

[demo243]

Finally had some nice weather and was able to push the z out for some work. Was hoping to get more done... but as with most things on this car something always comes up and takes longer. 

 

What I did get done is get the rear brakes updated - new calipers, rotors and pads. I did swap the calipers back to be on their "correct" sides; this puts the bleeders down low, but should only need to bleed them once so Ill pull them up for that and then bolt them back down, I do the same thing on the 510. This should hopefully give me a little more body clearance with the body. I snapped the hardline getting it bent back to shape so had to replace those while I was in there- they needed it anyway so for the better. The reman calipers seem to be of decent quality but I haven't bleed them yet. Two issues though- one is the notch in the piston didn't align with the pin on the pad, don't have the tools to twist them back - its installed and I will see when I bleed it if it settles in. Second issue is the e-brake arm; its just ever so slightly shorter then the ones that were on there, so the ebrake is essentially useless now. I need to add a collar to the cable housing to gain a few mm (~10) but will need to try and adjust the cable and tighten it up. Oh yea and had to cobble together a bolt set up for the connector instead of the pin in their before - better or worse idk... 

 

Before- 

 

After- 

 

 

 

On the carb front - I got them all jetted with my "initial" jet specs. Picked up the P clips I needed for the final piece of the fuel rail. Then I dropped the in line restrictor... and it disappeared in my garage... literally gone... - so I ordered another one of those. Got the heat shield cut and bent- wanted to add a couple more bends but without a proper brake it won't happen and they aren't needed; just need some washers to so I can set the rivets. There will be a DSI Form a Shield section underneath it to help with the heat.

[demo243]

Hopefully spring is here to stay now! We had a few nice days and then 3” of snow!!!! Warm weather returns though…

 

So suspension work has begun!

Got the rear end mostly torn apart- thankfully? Someone has worked on this car before so the half shaft bolts came loose and the spindle pins seem like they will come out- atleast on of them… Z car depot tool shows up tomorrow. 
 

Then I got the front end torn apart and the front struts ready to be cut. While I was in there decided it would be a good time to get the new rack in. Went in without too much fuss- just need to toss the u bolt back on.

 

Hopefully finish removing the rears tomorrow and cut all of them down. Then need to call around and find someone to weld them up. While that’s  happening I’ll trim the strut towers for camber adjustment access, add the extended length studs, mount the new front rotors to the hubs and replace the front wheel bearings- don’t think I’m going to deal with the rears yet… but tbd. Also going to get the H4 bulb conversion in while the wheels are off, and planning on replacing the fuel pump while the car is up. Also going to remove the vapor line that goes to the front of the car since I’m not using it.

 

Debating deleting the brake booster now as well- expecting vacuum issues with the Mikuni set up (although may be fine… plenty of people running triples and are ok)…

[demo243]

Got some good wrench time in today.

 

The z car depot tool showed up and I was able to get the rears off. Passenger came off no problem… driver put up a fight and ultimately destroyed the tool; but I was able to get it out. Got the rear struts striped down. Decided to pull the stubs since I couldn’t get the brake bracket off without pulling them, and can’t swap the studs with the bracket on- one of them had a click when spinning it around too… I may regret pulling them tough as one of the threads is a little buggered… I do have rusty spare so maybe I’ll clean that one up. 
 

Got three of the strut towers opened up with a hole saw. Need to do the 4th still and then open em up a little more with a grinder.

Going to make some calls to welders tomorrow.

 

 

[demo243]

Snuck in a little bit more time today. Was able to get all the strut towers opened up and trimmed for camber adjustments. Forgot to take a picture after paint.

 

 

Not perfect… but I’ll take it as a win- best I’m going to get with a Dremel. Some people open up the rest of the “ears”  which looks nice but isn’t really needed. I’ll probably end up hiding them with a T3 strut bar anyway… I know it doesn’t do much but for some reason I like the look of them on the Z.

 

Also found someone to weld up my coilover sleeves. Drove past a neighbors house and he was working on a Chevelle, stopped to ask him and turns out he’s a welder for the power company. Dropped em off with him and should hopefully have them back for the weekend 🤞. I’ll work on prepping the hubs with studs and new bearings in the meantime.

 

Edited April 9 by demo243

[demo243]

Few days of rain and have been battling the “plague” … but finally got back out there again today. 
 

Picked up my struts- guy did a nice job on them. Cut, blasted and welded them for $150 I can’t complain about that! I do wish he had taped things off a little better before blasting… but not damage that I can tell. I didn’t know he was going to blast them so I didn’t have them pre-masked. 
 

Spent a good hour cleaning them before paint- then masked and painted.

 

 

Picked up a tap from Amazon and got lucky and was able to savage the threads on the one stub axle. Hit the other one too for good measure and the new nut threads on smoothly on both now.

 

 

Grabbed a couple other tools that came in handy… clamshell? Bearing puller, and FWD bearing tools used both of them and happy to have them on hand now for future use rather then the parts store tool rental.

 

Got my extended studs in as well- ball joint tool worked well for popping the old ones out. Was hoping to use my press to put the new ones in but the bench top one just wasn’t big enough… should have just bought the big one before… but don’t really have space for it… thankfully the Z car depot spindle tool I picked up (and broke) utilized a stud pulled so I used that instead.

 

 

Also got the front bearing races in and trimmed my rear disc adapters - they are a 4 bolt plate for the 280zx calipers so require the stubs to be removed; now if (when) I decide to upgrade the brakes I won’t have to do the stubs again.

 

Making progress toward getting the car back on the ground- most likely not tomorrow but definitely this week or next weekend.

 

 

 

 

Edited April 14 by demo243

[demo243]

Struts/Coilovers are together! just need to attempt to torque the rear stubs one more time. Got them to 150ft lbs… but that’s where my torque wrench stops… also just couldn’t get any more leverage. Planning to put them on the car and try there; just one less thing to hold. Then need to peen the nuts… should have bought the Zx nuts; oops…. Meant to but ordered to quickly- why does anyone sell the old ones anyway?!?

 

 

Messed around with a few other things too including the fuel pump. I think I am going to mount it in the factory location. The Carter bracket fits the of the holes just need a shield then. Threw this one together pick it the some spare metal hanging around - seems like it might rattle so considering ordering something thicker… tbd. Also ordered an AN 120 and 180 fitting to clean up that big loop of hose into the inlet.

 

 

Hopefully get the struts mounted tomorrow? Will probably try and roll the fenders at the same time- hopefully the struts aren’t too short now for the tool. Then need to mount the front and rear calipers back on. Will need some new hard lines for the front Toyota calipers, but that should be quick. Bleed the brakes and we’re almost back on the ground. Just need to mess with the e brake adjustment… and I’m sure more 

[datsunfreak]

On 4/13/2024 at 8:23 PM, demo243 said:

Got my extended studs in as well- ball joint tool worked well for popping the old ones out. Was hoping to use my press to put the new ones in but the bench top one just wasn’t big enough… should have just bought the big one before… but don’t really have space for it… thankfully the Z car depot spindle tool I picked up (and broke) utilized a stud pulled so I used that instead.

 

FWIW, every time I have tried to use a press to install them, they go in a wee bit crooked. I have had good success with using a stack of washers and a normal nut on the stud, then pull them in with an impact gun.

 

It usually takes more than one nut per car, as sometimes it can bend the threads on a normal nut.  😋

 

Never has damaged the threads on the stud, though. But we are using ARP wheel studs that are pretty dang stout. 

[demo243]

5 hours ago, datsunfreak said:

 

FWIW, every time I have tried to use a press to install them, they go in a wee bit crooked. I have had good success with using a stack of washers and a normal nut on the stud, then pull them in with an impact gun.

 

It usually takes more than one nut per car, as sometimes it can bend the threads on a normal nut.  😋

 

Never has damaged the threads on the stud, though. But we are using ARP wheel studs that are pretty dang stout. 

I have actually read that too… anyway seems to have worked fine. I “sacrificed” one of the spare muteki lugs which has a pretty good extended thread which I’m sure helped (lug still threads on smooth… but not sure I would trust it after it’s improper usage. I’ve got 7 more spare so not worried about it.

[demo243]

Got some more time out there again today.

 

Got the rears torqued past the 159ft lbs my torque wrench goes to and called that close enough to the 180ft lbs called for and peened the nuts. Axles spin smoothly and I don’t feel any play.

 

Then got the fronts installed. I used MSAs short bumpsteer spacer (3/4” instead of 1”)- and glad I did! Plenty of clearance- although I do wish T3 had sent the button heads instead of socket caps.

 

Then i attempted the rears- but unfortunately the spindle pin was binding on the drivers side. Ordered a 5/8” hone to hopefully clean up the strut and solve that issue. If that doesnt work I’ll try a 5/8 bolt from fastenal- some people have mentioned since its a hair smaller it is easier.

 

Luckily right as I gave up on that the Amazon guy dropped off my fuel fittings so I refocused on the fuel pump. It is now mounted, plumbed, and wires. Oddly I did the return soft line as well and it is 1/4 hard line but 5/16 on the tank… used a 5/16 hose with a double clamp on the hard line. May get some 1/4” inch to stretch it later on …. Also ordered some thicker aluminum to make another plate for protection out of, but this will do for now.

 

 

[demo243]

… continued.

 

Then came an annoying set back.
 

Last thing I did was try and mount up the front calipers… and they didn’t fit…

 

Grabbed one of the old rotors quick and well shit….

 

 

A quick Google and my suspicions seem correct Rock auto sent me 280z rotors. Which are 1.7” in height where as 240z are 2” in height.

 

A quick run back to RockAuto and they do have the rotors I ordered under the ‘73 240z - although there is a note that says from 8/73 (which shouldn’t matter… since Datsun didn’t change the struts till the late 260 into 280z) - but they do have them listed as 1.7” tall. Also my car is. 8/73 car so it’s wrong on their site either way.

 

I ordered up the proper replacements which should be here Wednesday hopefully… just annoyed I need to pull the hubs off again. Also annoyed as I’ll need to call and complain since I’m past the 30 day return window…
 

 

[datsunfreak]

18 hours ago, demo243 said:

Last thing I did was try and mount up the front calipers… and they didn’t fit…

Grabbed one of the old rotors quick and well shit….

 

A quick run back to RockAuto and they do have the rotors I ordered under the ‘73 240z - although there is a note that says from 8/73 (which shouldn’t matter… since Datsun didn’t change the struts till the late 260 into 280z) - but they do have them listed as 1.7” tall. Also my car is. 8/73 car so it’s wrong on their site either way.

 

That's kooky. I never knew they changed the rotors mid-stream.

 

All of the guys I know who have done this swap use custom spacers to make the rotor fit. So with the "correct" 240Z rotors, they fit straight on? Or are you not using the regular Toyota truck caliper? 

[demo243]

5 hours ago, datsunfreak said:

 

That's kooky. I never knew they changed the rotors mid-stream.

 

All of the guys I know who have done this swap use custom spacers to make the rotor fit. So with the "correct" 240Z rotors, they fit straight on? Or are you not using the regular Toyota truck caliper? 

A couple things- 

 

As far as I can tell the 240z all had the same rotors, hubs, strut housings. The 260 is the bastard child, early ones are basically a ‘73 240, late ones are basically a ‘75 280, middle ones are a crap shoot. 280z changed the hubs, struts and rear stubs to beef them up a bit.

 

There are also 3 different calipers- solid rotors, and 2 different vented rotor versions. As far as i understand the solid rotor version (pre ‘83 4x4 pickup) are a bolt on for the 240z - uses stock 240z and rotors. One may need a spacer on the 280z? Idk. The vented rotor calipers use 300zx rotors and a spacer which varies per caliper.

 

Im using the regular 4x4 solid rotor calipers. It’s what the car came with and will be good enough for now and maybe long term too. No real plans to track the car so I doubt I’ll run out of brakes … but may want some fancy wilwoods or something someday just because.

[demo243]

Flex hone showed up today so I got to work this afternoon. Spent about an hr messing around with it. The one strut the spindle dropped right in (same one that came out easy) the other one literally took an hr with the hone… ended up hitting the axles with 400 sand paper quick too to clean em up… so there goes the zinc coating… hopefully these come out again someday…. I pumped em full of grease so hoping for the best. But the rears are in! I did strip out one of the lock pins so need to call Nissan tomorrow and see if they can get me one or I’ll order it from z car depot.

 

if anyone is dealing with the spindle pins and comes across this- get 2 flex hones; one rough and one fine grit; that should help make it a bit quicker.

 

New rotors here tomorrow hopefully. Pick up some quick bleeders tomorrow too. 
 

Making progress . Sorry no photos.

 

Ar least now I can get the car back on wheels and roll it around if I need it too.

 

More to come- hoping to be driving it this weekend.

[datsunfreak]

11 hours ago, demo243 said:

As far as i understand the solid rotor version (pre ‘83 4x4 pickup) are a bolt on for the 240z - uses stock 240z and rotors. One may need a spacer on the 280z? Idk. The vented rotor calipers use 300zx rotors and a spacer which varies per caliper.

 

I think this was the issue I was recalling. Last friend I helped do this upgrade, he was using the vented rotors/calipers on a 280Z and needed the spacer. 👍

[iceman510]

A friend of mine had something similar.  He has a 240Z race car with those calipers, and he went to upgrade the hubs and then the calipers and rotors didn't fit together.  If I remember right, somewhere along the line the hubs had been changed to 280Z, so when he bought 240z hubs the geometry changed.  I can't remember if he needed a different spacer or what exactly he did.  I think his are the vented rotors and caliper combo, so they were custom to some extent anyway.

[demo243]

Proper 240z rotors showed up today and fixed the problem. Calipers dropper right on. Got both hubs off and rotors swapped - no big deal, just annoying to have to do it again. 

 

Once the calipers were mounted I got to work on the brake lines - the Toyota calipers (at least on my car) need a short hardline section from the caliper to the strut. The BCs come with a bracket but it is slightly different then the stock 240z one (I believe... don't exactly remember). This car also has stainless flex lines on it already... although they seem slightly short... anyway here is what I came up with. I felt the flex line coming up from the bottom gave it the most length and chance to stretch as the car compresses down ( lengthening the line). Started working on the other side, but bent the line without moving the brake nut so I need to start over. 

 

Picking up some speed bleeders tomorrow. Will hopefully get a chance to get the other front line made and get the rears mounted up tomorrow. Then its time to bleed the brakes.

 

After that I just need to adjust the parking brake, adjust the exhaust hanger, hopefully try and roll the fenders (may need to customize my roller... otherwise need to extend the coilovers...); and finally a quick driveway front end alignment. I will likely schedule a professional alignment just to check my work and confirm camber specs but tbd... 

 

Hopefully driving it this weekend. 🤞

 

[demo243]

The car is back on its wheels… not the ground yet… and not with out issue…

 

I knew the rear brakes were likely going to be an issue, but at stock height and full droop my rework was no problem and looked like it would clear. How ever… even at full droop with the coil overs there is contact. Like I said based on witness marks from before this was potentially going to be an issue…

 

Here it is with my reroute - there was going to be an issue with the brake bracket. I thought I took another photo but I guess not.

 

Then I swapped the calipers back to how they were (how it is recommended for a 280zx set up) and still there are issues-

 

 

I was thinking I’ll just try and shave the bracket, but looks like the cable will be the next issue….

 

I think I’m going to try and go back in tomorrow and swap the calipers again… another option is to potentially re drill the cable hole lower on the bracket and trim down.

 

I think most people run a Maxima bracket - and mine is definitely not that as it is welded. I looks like the maxima brackets mount the caliper more vertical which could potentially help- but no way am I gonna find those brackets.
 

Just frustrated… was hoping to get a couple more years out of these brakes and avoid and expensive wilwood update.