New to the forum, beginner working on vehicles -- just bought a 1985 KC 4x4

[datzenmike]

I think they are called kick panels. Later ones are plastic instead of compressed cardboard. Try e Bay but otherwise they would be found in wrecking yards.

[Zach]

Thanks @datzenmike.

[Thomas Perkins]

See where you hinges goes into the firewall in your last picture.Remove the old pink sealant and put new ones 's on to seal it.Walmart sells it.I replaced mine.I just measured mine,it is 3/8 wide,put in on the firewall ,not on the hinge.Also on the passenger side is a hose,is it cracked,if so use some clear silicone to seal.It goes into your firewall.

[Zach]

Thanks @Thomas Perkins, I'll give that a shot.

[Zach]

UPDATE

 

Got everything sorted with my carb install. Really cleaned up the engine bay a lot and the truck runs much better overall. There's some remaining vibration I'll ask about later.

 

Things I kept after the carb install:

 

- Distributor advance vac line, straight into Weber

- Fuel tank to carbon canister

- Carb float bowl vent to carbon canister

 

Things I got rid of:

 

- Anything related to EGR (plugged EGR itself, will add plate + gasket soon)

- All vacuum switches

- Thermal vacuum valve

- o2 sensor and its wire, ordered a plug, for now the old o2 sensor is acting as the plug

- o2 sensor plug in cabin unplugged to keep the light off

- I clipped the old pigtail for the stock carb except for the wire that goes to the Weber's electric choke. I kept the pigtail but don't think I'll be using it, just wanted it a bit cleaner in there.

- I clipped some other wires that were no longer used, kept all those connectors as well but really don't see myself using the vacuum switches or o2 sensor anymore

 

I also replaced the plugs with the OEM spec NGK.

 

PLANS

 

Next up I'm going to attempt to check / adjust the valves and timing. I ordered a new valve cover gasket. I'll adjust the valves and install the new gasket. While I'm at it, I'll retorque the head bolts. Need to borrow or buy a timing light so I can check the timing, not super keen on spending the cash on it for something I won't use that often, but c'est la vie

 

I spent some time researching which oils to use for the diffs and transmission, got the right stuff on order now and will replace those fluids later this week -- yellow metal safe GL4; GL5, both conventional

 

I want to flush and replace the coolant sometime soon

 

Still working on tracking down my floorboard leak, I'm going to give replacing that hood hinge seal a shot.

 

Longer term, over the next few weeks I'd like to start attacking the rust in the bed and in the floors. The body mounts are shot, so I'm thinking of cutting out a big section and figuring out some universal energy suspension polyurethane ones to replace the original ones with. Once the bed rust is cleaned up I'll do the DIY spray in Raptor bedliner.

 

QUESTIONS

 

1. The cab and steering wheel shake at a low idle. I've adjust the idle to somewhere around 850 or 900, which is still okay according to FSM, but I'm wondering why it shakes so much at a lower idle. Could it be worn out suspension / steering components? Body mounts? Timing / valves? Thoughts welcome. There's also a clunking from the rear end that I made a separate thread about, feels like it could be in this category too.

 

2. The speedometer is stuck at around 55. Sometimes it goes up but is inaccurate. The odometer works. With the odometer working, does that make it more likely that it's something wrong with the gauge cluster? I bought a new speedo cable but am second guessing replacing it since the odometer is fine.

 

3. Finding TDC -- I haven't tried yet, but what's the consensus on getting a breaker bar down to the crank to turn the motor over? Idk what size socket it is, nor do I have a long enough breaker bar. I'll buy them if it's worth it, but the clearance between fan and motor is small, so not sure if folks even use that method on these trucks

 

4. Is it normal that the temp gauge sits at around 1/3 instead of 1/2 once the engine is heated up?

[Thomas Perkins]

Mine was doing that and I took the speedo out and seen that one of the temperature gauge wires  was burnt out.I had a extra one and replaced it and now it goes to half and stays there when riding.The wire was white and it had white splatter around that area from that wire burning.See the blue wire with the white specs,that is what that brown looking wire is before the white coating got hot and melted.See the other white wire,we'll the brown looking wire use to be white.See my old temperature gauge with that white splatter,that is from the wire burning and splattering on it.See the pic with 2 white wires,we'll that is the temperature gauge I put in there.Before i realized it was a bad temperature gauge,I replaced a good water pump,a good temperature sender and sensor,but had a lifetime warranty on them.But not on the antifreeze or water pump gasket.I do have good temperature  sender and sensor if you ever need them.

Edited March 14, 2023 by Thomas Perkins

[datzenmike]

The vacuum advance should also go to the PURGE on the canister.

 

NGK BPR6ES for the intake

NGK BPR5ES for the exhaust

 

Head bolts must be done on a cold engine. Loosen only one bolt at a time and torque to 60 ft. lbs. Then do the next, any order.

 

It's best that the valves be set hot 0.014" but cold is easier at 0.012". The fastest way to set valves before the engine cools down is the following. No bumping the starter is needed.

 

26mm socket and ratchet.

Set engine to TDC compression stroke on #1 cylinder using the timing scale and notch on the crankshaft pulley...

Set both valves on #1, intake on #2 and exhaust on #3

Turn engine ONE revolution and up to TDC on the exhaust stroke

Set exhaust #2, intake #3 and both valves #4.... done and that was easy.

 

Many auto supply store will rent a timing light.

 

When flushing the engine also leave the heater on HOT disconnect the heater hoses and flush several times both ways with a garden hose. When finished Either by a pre-mix anti freeze coolant or buy a couple of gallons of distilled water and a premium anti freeze. Always top up with distilled water. It's mineral free and prevents scale build up. If radiator is scaly remove and place face down with the cap on and pour a bottle of CLT in and let sit overnight.

 

 

Shaking has nothing to do with suspension. Setting the valves and timing may fix this. Might borrow a compression tester, a low cylinder might be the cause.

 

If odometer working then the gauge is pooched.

 

26mm deep socket (borrow) and a breaker bar will turn the engine. Easier if the plugs are out on one side (exhaust side are the easiest)

 

 

Temp gauge... Take the Yellow/Black (stripe) off the sender located just under the thermostat and ground it to the intake. Gauge should read full HOT. If it does then the gauge is working.

When ever I have a temperature problem I just go out and change the thermostat. Too much bother to test them, wife gets pissy being in the kitchen.... just cut to the chase. No $1.99 WallMart thermostat spend at least $10 for a good one. You don't want to risk a boil over, loss of your $$ antifreeze, risk of warping the head and being stuck in the hood at night. Get a new one and gasket and if this doesn't fix the problem you still have a good thermostat and can sleep at night. 

 

 

 

 

[Zach]

UPDATE

 

Checked timing, looks good -- about 3 degrees, still putting off adjusting valves, but that's the only engine tune up item left so I gotta do that this week

 

Replaced transmission, differential and transfer oil

 

Installed new front shocks

 

PLANS

 

Ordered new thermostat, when that gets here I'll flush and replace the coolant along with the thermostat

 

New bushings arrived for suspension parts, install those this week hopefully?

 

Rear shocks will get here this week, install those

 

Bedliner

 

___

 

I'm hoping the new bushings and shocks will help smooth the ride out, it's pretty clunky right now. Bumps aren't fun at the moment.

 

Getting the front shocks out required the angle grinder with a cutoff wheel.

 

The truck seems to idle way better at around 1000, everything smooths out there...FSM says idle should be around 800, could my tach be off? Or if it's correct, is there any harm in letting it idle a little higher?

 

I'm pretty happy with the progress I'm making on it! It's cool to have picked it up in a close to un-driveable state and with some wrenching and time have a truck I'm able to daily.

[datzenmike]

1,000 is ok.... valve adjustment may allow 800.

[powderfinger]

2 hours ago, Zach said:

The truck seems to idle way better at around 1000, everything smooths out there...FSM says idle should be around 800, could my tach be off?

 

My tach always shows around 950RPM but when I connect my digital timing light up I am pretty sure it usually says around 770RPM if I remember correctly. Like Mike said, 1000 should be fine. If it gets much higher than that it may start dieseling when you shut it off.

Edited March 20, 2023 by powderfinger

[bottomwatcher]

Just a little info on engines that need thier valves adjusted. The reason they need adjusting is the valve and seat seem to wear a little faster than the cam and rockers (they aren't bathed in oil). As the valve and seats wear the clearance between rocker arm and valve becomes tighter. Eventually when there isn't any more clearance the valve can't close all the way and gets burnt.  This is also why valves should be adjusted hot.

[Thomas Perkins]

7 minutes ago, bottomwatcher said:

Just a little info on engines that need thier valves adjusted. The reason they need adjusting is the valve and seat seem to wear a little faster than the cam and rockers (they aren't bathed in oil). As the valve and seats wear the clearance between rocker arm and valve becomes tighter. Eventually when there isn't any more clearance the valve can't close all the way and gets burnt.  This is also why valves should be adjusted hot.

You didn't spell one of your words right.Can you find which one.You have 10 minutes to find or....look's like a 8th grade mistake.

[datzenmike]

Can be explained as more of a miss key error than not knowing how to spell it correctly.  

[iceman510]

34 minutes ago, Thomas Perkins said:

You didn't spell one of your words right.Can you find which one.You have 10 minutes to find or....look's like a 8th grade mistake.

 

And your comment has about 5 grammatical errors.  Your point?

[Thomas Perkins]

9 minutes ago, iceman510 said:

 

And your comment has about 5 grammatical errors.  Your point?

My point is someone came on my comment said I didn't spell a word right.Just pay back.I can care less how anyone spells,but when you low rate me,be ready for your's.This was for bottom watcher,not you.Too many people here make fun of other people's way of doing things.

[Thomas Perkins]

If I use a Auto zone part what is it too any one on here.It's my truck,not your's.So keep your shit to your self.

[Thomas Perkins]

Here it is,The Tommy hater...Misspelling...

• 
• Senior Member
• •  1.5k
• Location:FL/ME
• Cars:82 720, 68 beetle + dailies

 

Posted Saturday at 06:19 PM (edited)

According to Tommy

Yes.When ever you take one back to get another,make sure they get you the right one.I took one back,it was a 60 amp one,and they gave me a 50 amp one,the fitting was different but i just thought it was a new style type but,it was a 50 amp one.I took it back after it failed in only 3 months.

 

Edited Saturday at 06:20 PM by bottomwatcher
Misspelling

Edited March 20, 2023 by Thomas Perkins

[datzenmike]

 

 

No one is even close to Hainz for grammar/spelling missfuckups.

[bottomwatcher]

Burn barrel Tommy is on a tear. The Voodoo cardboard and the barrel was amusing.

Edited March 20, 2023 by bottomwatcher
Misspelling

[datzenmike]

If only the cardboard had had pins in it....

[KELMO]

Something about glass houses and throwing stones comes to mind.

[datzenmike]

It's.... People in glass houses should dress in the basement.

[iceman510]

C'mon Mike, an ellipsis is only three dots.  Don't copy Tommy. 🤣

[iceman510]

20 hours ago, Thomas Perkins said:

My point is someone came on my comment said I didn't spell a word right.Just pay back.I can care less how anyone spells,but when you low rate me,be ready for your's.This was for bottom watcher,not you.Too many people here make fun of other people's way of doing things.

 

And now you are doing what you complained out.  My point.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Hey guys, pointing out someone's misspelling or grammar is like telling someone they have a bad haircut. Move on, it will grow out.

 

It completely detracts from the point and is a waste of time.

 

I just went back and corrected my own misspelling of mispelling...