Slow Loris Posted August 24, 2023 Author Report Share Posted August 24, 2023 Thanks! Honestly it’s actually really nice to shift too, better than my expectations by far. Would recommend to any diy shift knob people. I think the egg cost me all of $2 too! 1 Quote Link to comment
Slow Loris Posted September 9, 2023 Author Report Share Posted September 9, 2023 Just took a bad drive around the neighborhood. Had hardly any power most of the time…engine would quiet down (not really stutter just kind of…take a dive) like it was about to die and then…CRACK a very sharp noise followed by a little burst of power which would remain until the next up or downshift, and then repeat the process. I never gave it enough gas in 1st to experience the noise and sudden power (no power in first whatsoever—I thought initially maybe I wasn’t actually in 1st it was bogging and revving like that), so maybe somehow throttle/fuel related? Or clutch problem? Hard to describe the sound—more like a loud quick grind than like a detonation. Very loud very sharp. Never experienced this before on similar drives. Haven’t changed a whole heck of a lot mechanically since last time I drove it. What the heck? Quote Link to comment
Slow Loris Posted September 14, 2023 Author Report Share Posted September 14, 2023 Okay well never mind the clutch issues for now I’m exploring that hydraulically before I do anything drastic. I have found a couple carb issues. This is a manual choke stock hitachi. 1) it’s loose middle section wiggles-it seems tight to manifold and air horn is tight to the middle section but the middle part wiggles a bit. I tightened this screw (below) which helped a lot but it still moves. Everything above that screw wiggles together, everything below it feels firm. I feel like carb is not something where I want to go removing bolts and screws Willy nilly, so any advice re what does/does not need to come out to tighten this up? I assume air horn must come off, are there some long bolts under that gasket that are apparent after I get that off? 2) something’s missing? in looking for obvious bolts to tighten I noticed this: I found a diagram in a book that looks like maybe where the secondary slow jet is supposed to be? Seems important. Quote Link to comment
Slow Loris Posted October 15, 2023 Author Report Share Posted October 15, 2023 Alright plugged that hole in the carb and nothing bad happened… Removed carb and replaced the bottom gasket and the one just under the top section and retightened to manifold. All seems happy. I drastically readjusted the clutch slave and pedal to see if that changes driving behavior but haven’t had a test drive yet. I did a driveway slip test with the truck in 4th and it stalled right away so that’s good. But I feel light the release bearing/something isnt returning as it should based on my last test drive. It’s like slow to return, but does eventually. Is there a way to get at it to unstick it while trans still on truck? I can’t see too far into the opening at the release lever to tell what’s happening. Quote Link to comment
Slow Loris Posted October 15, 2023 Author Report Share Posted October 15, 2023 Hmm so it’s routinely trying to die after I shift into second and accelerate. First and reverse are not a problem. And it really abruptly cuts out, not even a stumble or a bog just a straight up silent cut out. it’s like first gear take off…fine clutch in, second gear, lift clutch accelerator, immediate cut out It’s recoverable with the clutch in, and at times will push through the cut out if I stay on the gas, but other times, it dies. I guess maybe fuel delivery, but it’s weird how sudden it cuts out. Not your average stall. No bucking. I had been thinking some type of clutch slippage or poor clutch release return but I’m not sure… Any ideas? Quote Link to comment
Slow Loris Posted November 26, 2023 Author Report Share Posted November 26, 2023 What’s number 33 supposed to look like? Manual says “cushion-contact plate” Is it like a little squishy rubber thing? Something to keep #32 off the hub I presume? Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted November 26, 2023 Report Share Posted November 26, 2023 Yeah, it's a rubber bumper. I have some nos around here somewhere. They deteriorate/disintegrate over the years Quote Link to comment
Slow Loris Posted November 26, 2023 Author Report Share Posted November 26, 2023 Okay thanks I’ll stick some o rings on there and see what happens. Seems like I’m not making contact when I hit the horn button so I’m hoping these move the plate up towards the back of the button? Not really sure what’s happening to be honest. Quote Link to comment
Slow Loris Posted November 28, 2023 Author Report Share Posted November 28, 2023 Ah ha. Those pieces are crucial! I made something out of an old spark plug boot and now I’m honking up a storm. 1 Quote Link to comment
Slow Loris Posted March 6 Author Report Share Posted March 6 Dang seems like everyone has dusted off the Datsun these days! Still a little wintry here but I made some time to put in some carpet, get a steering wheel in and do a headliner. only several hundred dozen things left to knock out! 5 Quote Link to comment
Slow Loris Posted March 24 Author Report Share Posted March 24 Extended test drive. Hot damn we are runnin and drivin guys. The weird stall-out issue I guess was a little bit solved by a new accel pump and a little bit solved by a heavier right foot, oh and maybe the adjustment to the clutch slave—who knows—all three helped! Definitely gotta get used to the sounds and revs, but seems like she pulls strong if you lay into it a little more than I’d think. Needs a little adjustment on the brakes and also the shifter boot is impeding the shifting it gets so bound up but after that…TO THE DEPARTMENT OF MOTOR VEHICLES. 2 Quote Link to comment
Slow Loris Posted March 27 Author Report Share Posted March 27 Evidently I’m missing the gasket at the exhaust flange. Might explain the volume of the motor (loud)? Oh well can’t wait to snap those studs off! 1 Quote Link to comment
Slow Loris Posted April 15 Author Report Share Posted April 15 Exhaust collector gasket solved—no studs broken! WOW it is so quiet now haha. I can’t believe my ears. However I was motivated to put in a brake proportioning valve since I was locking up the rears after doing the dual m/c and now I’m having a hard time bleeding the rear circuit now so I’m thinking I have a big bubble stuck or have a little air seep or something. I dunno but it’s a bit annoying to not have brakes and have everything else working pretty good! Quote Link to comment
Slow Loris Posted May 26 Author Report Share Posted May 26 hmmm me thinks there’s supposed to be something on the end of my speedo cable… Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted May 26 Report Share Posted May 26 I have been know to fix these. If you still have the trans key you can drill it out then put the generic square cable in there with JB weld size it using the other end and make a new one . can alwasy trim it if too long. Best to make it longer 1 Quote Link to comment
Slow Loris Posted May 26 Author Report Share Posted May 26 Ah okay thanks! Yes it would appear the key is still in there though I didn’t take it out to check if it is intact or look if it still spins—but first things first I’ll try this with the cable or get a new one. The cable has been disconnected at cluster since I bought the truck, now I know why. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted May 26 Report Share Posted May 26 The end is called a ferule. Check the outer cable sheath. If damaged mud and water can get in. Water will freeze in the winter and the cable will twist off. Also needs lots of graphite grease. Quote Link to comment
Slow Loris Posted May 27 Author Report Share Posted May 27 Mmm yeah ok the sheath is torn open near the end. Time for new cable then. Graphite on the ferrule or into the sheath? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted May 27 Report Share Posted May 27 Just the inner cable. Don't worry the new one will already be lubed. Quote Link to comment
Slow Loris Posted July 3 Author Report Share Posted July 3 Got the new speedo cable in and got promptly found the speed was off by quite a bit, I think because the speedometer needle was getting stuck—needle wouldn’t return to zero, so was resting at 20 mph and adding about that much on…a little case of FLACCID (Floppy, Low-Accuracy, Chronically Crusty Indicator of speeD) Cleaned it all up and still no dice. Having a few spare clusters around I figured I’d swap a new one in but…they all seemed to have that problem! So I was thinking if only I could get that little spring to have a little more Oomph it could pull itself back to zero… So I thought hmmm…if I just loosen this nut… and rotate the anchor for the spring about a quarter turn so it’s wound a little tighter, snug the nut back up…yea that oughta do it… BOIYOYOYOYOINGGG! Back to zero every time. Yup. That worked! Will it be dead-on accurate now? I sincerely doubt it but who cares! Now I have a case of HARD ON (Heavy Acceleration Reads Directly On iNdicator). 2 Quote Link to comment
Slow Loris Posted August 17 Author Report Share Posted August 17 Dang I wish I’d seen this before I hacked up my air cleaner…$45 isn’t bad. No cutting welding or goofing around required. Googled plenty before I made my own and it never came up, maybe it’s new? No I’m not getting a commission…maybe it’ll help someone Stock Datsun air cleaner to Weber adapter: https://www.californiadatsun.com/carburetor-parts/weber-32-36-dgev-adapter.html Quote Link to comment
iceman510 Posted August 18 Report Share Posted August 18 Not new, those have been around probably since the 70's. Definitely the 80's. Quote Link to comment
Slow Loris Posted August 18 Author Report Share Posted August 18 Oh, well it was my first time using google so maybe that explains it. Quote Link to comment
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